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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings Avant Nate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 23 2009
    AZ Member #
    52450
    My Garage
    2001 Audi Allroad 6MT,1999 Yukon Denali, 1987 4Runner
    Location
    Boulder, CO

    Turbo setup for motor break-in?

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    I wanted to know if there any opinions on which turbo setup people use to break in rebuilt engines. There's a ton of stuff about how to break in an engine but what about excessive boost? I'm currently stock, just passed emissions and it's about time I installed my 90% finished engine gathering dust in my garage.
    38mm wastegate is 12lbs, SEM manifold or stock? I didn't want to try a new tune that hasn't been tested, just something tried and true. I'm a virgin in all this, so I just don't know.
    99.5 1.8T QMS: GT2860RS .63 T3, PSI T3 Mani, Turbosmart 38mm EWG, Unitronic 415, Forge 007,Treadstone TR18 FMIC, Walbro e85 450, FSI coil conversion, 3" DIY Magnaflow/Dynomax VT exhaust
    Depo ecodes, DDM slim 6000k, VDO boost gauge, PLX AFR, Greddy profec B EBC,
    H&R sport springs, 034 rear sway, 034 rear diff carrier, A8 fronts,18x8 OZ Superleggera
    Next up E85, efr 7163 or gtx3071r?
    01 allroad 2.7t 6mt, GIAC stage 1

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings dalazybastard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 08 2016
    AZ Member #
    371523
    Location
    Orange County, CA

    Turbo setup for motor break-in?

    I personally haven’t gotten to that point.

    From all my reading that I’ve done most have used a tried and proven tune/setup whether it be stock or tuned.

    I plan on doing either stock turbo or just wastegate pressure when I do get to that point.

    Others with more experience will chime in soon.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Just a couple B5's, you know.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings Rodgman15's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 12 2014
    AZ Member #
    138773
    Location
    Fargo, ND

    Quote Originally Posted by Avant Nate View Post
    I wanted to know if there any opinions on which turbo setup people use to break in rebuilt engines. There's a ton of stuff about how to break in an engine but what about excessive boost? I'm currently stock, just passed emissions and it's about time I installed my 90% finished engine gathering dust in my garage.
    38mm wastegate is 12lbs, SEM manifold or stock? I didn't want to try a new tune that hasn't been tested, just something tried and true. I'm a virgin in all this, so I just don't know.
    I broke my new engine in on my HX35. Turned the boost down (MBC) to a reasonable 5-10 PSI, and let it boost, then vacuum, over and over and over again. You wanna get it into boost and vacuum back and forth frequently to help the rings seat. On my old dirt racecar engines, we just jumped in and held it to the floor for 15 minutes around the track. You wanna break it in like you're going to drive it.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings GOODBYNAAIR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 17 2011
    AZ Member #
    84082
    My Garage
    1973 MG Midget, 1995 F150 302 v8, 2007 A4 Avant 3.2 v6, 2014 Odyssey EX-L
    Location
    Fredneck Maryland

    12lbs should be fine. I did mine with 10lbs. GT2860rs

    My $.02

    -Use break in oil or SAE non-detergent oil with crap filter, prime motor, start motor, let it get up to temps while you check for leaks, drain oil (observe shavings), and take off crappy filter
    -Place in new break in oil or SAE 30 non-detergent motor oil with yet another cheap crappy filter
    -Go for a drive and beat the crap out of your vehicle for roughly 15-20 min, with lots and lots of engine breaking (important)
    -Drain oil and take out crappy filter
    -Place in break in oil or SAE 30 non-detergent oil with a quality filter (OEM preferrably)
    -Drive for 500-1000 miles
    -Switch to full synthetic, regular intervals and enjoy your vehicle

    That break in method is contraversal, but many of us did it that way. Read the article in the link below.

    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


    I used Lucas break in motor oil for my break in. But I would suggest Amsoil break in motor oil. I'm sort of biased towards them, though. Cheap SAE 30 non-detergent for the first warm up and drain if you don't want to spend the money. But I suggest motor oil specifically engineered for this crucial process.
    SOLD the GOINHAM A4 ---> GT2860 Project

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings Rodgman15's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 12 2014
    AZ Member #
    138773
    Location
    Fargo, ND

    Quote Originally Posted by GOODBYNAAIR View Post
    12lbs should be fine. I did mine with 10lbs. GT2860rs

    My $.02

    -Use break in oil or SAE non-detergent oil with crap filter, prime motor, start motor, let it get up to temps while you check for leaks, drain oil (observe shavings), and take off crappy filter
    -Place in new break in oil or SAE 30 non-detergent motor oil with yet another cheap crappy filter
    -Go for a drive and beat the crap out of your vehicle for roughly 15-20 min, with lots and lots of engine breaking (important)
    -Drain oil and take out crappy filter
    -Place in break in oil or SAE 30 non-detergent oil with a quality filter (OEM preferrably)
    -Drive for 500-1000 miles
    -Switch to full synthetic, regular intervals and enjoy your vehicle

    That break in method is contraversal, but many of us did it that way. Read the article in the link below.

    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


    I used Lucas break in motor oil for my break in. But I would suggest Amsoil break in motor oil. I'm sort of biased towards them, though. Cheap SAE 30 non-detergent for the first warm up and drain if you don't want to spend the money. But I suggest motor oil specifically engineered for this crucial process.
    This is all good info, I did exactly the same thing on my new engine. I personally used Brad Penn break-in oil.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings Avant Nate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 23 2009
    AZ Member #
    52450
    My Garage
    2001 Audi Allroad 6MT,1999 Yukon Denali, 1987 4Runner
    Location
    Boulder, CO

    I was going to use rotella t1 sae 30 plus lucas break in additive. I'll just use Mann filters because I buy them in bulk, so they just as cheap as cheap filters.
    99.5 1.8T QMS: GT2860RS .63 T3, PSI T3 Mani, Turbosmart 38mm EWG, Unitronic 415, Forge 007,Treadstone TR18 FMIC, Walbro e85 450, FSI coil conversion, 3" DIY Magnaflow/Dynomax VT exhaust
    Depo ecodes, DDM slim 6000k, VDO boost gauge, PLX AFR, Greddy profec B EBC,
    H&R sport springs, 034 rear sway, 034 rear diff carrier, A8 fronts,18x8 OZ Superleggera
    Next up E85, efr 7163 or gtx3071r?
    01 allroad 2.7t 6mt, GIAC stage 1

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Joe Jr.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 09 2017
    AZ Member #
    395072
    Location
    Longmont, CO

    Quote Originally Posted by Avant Nate View Post
    I was going to use rotella t1 sae 30 plus lucas break in additive. I'll just use Mann filters because I buy them in bulk, so they just as cheap as cheap filters.
    hey Nate, if you ever need an extra hand let me know. I'm pretty close. I'd also be interested in seeing your project.
    Need another!

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings GOODBYNAAIR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 17 2011
    AZ Member #
    84082
    My Garage
    1973 MG Midget, 1995 F150 302 v8, 2007 A4 Avant 3.2 v6, 2014 Odyssey EX-L
    Location
    Fredneck Maryland

    Quote Originally Posted by Avant Nate View Post
    I was going to use rotella t1 sae 30 plus lucas break in additive. I'll just use Mann filters because I buy them in bulk, so they just as cheap as cheap filters.
    I don't see the rotella + lucas being a problem. Mann filters are great! I too have bought them in bulk, and Bosch too.
    SOLD the GOINHAM A4 ---> GT2860 Project

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