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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Sep 05 2014
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    280776
    Location
    Delaware

    2005 B6 S4 p1347 and p1340 after timing chain job

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    I got the engine back in today and after hooking everything up I disconnected the fuel injectors, cranked it for ~20 seconds, and then fired it up. It ran okay but had a little valvetrain noise, shut it off and checked for codes and had p1347 and p1340

    17755 - Camshaft Position Sensor 2 (G163) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
    P1347 - 001 - Incor. Correl.
    17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Egnine Speed Sensor (G28)
    P1340 - 001 - Incor. Correlation

    After doing a little digging through the instructions I realized I didn't do the part where you turn the crank back 45 degrees and put the wedges in. I just had the crank pin in, the 2 cam alignments plates, and used the little tools to line up the hall effect sensors and then tightened everything. Does the engine need to come back out to fix the cam positions or can I do that in-car?

    Really upset at myself right now

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings a4lownslow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 12 2014
    AZ Member #
    144887
    My Garage
    2007 Audi A4 2.0T
    Location
    Hudson WI

    Probably easier to take the engine back out. Thatís really unfortunate man, gotta pretension that chain :/


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  3. #3
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 12 2015
    AZ Member #
    364349
    Location
    Oregon

    When I did the timing chains on my car I did not pre tension the chain and my car runs fine. Do you have vcds?

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

    My build log
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-s-s4-timeline

    Texpoops "Correct, but a half inch difference isnít going to accelerate wear by much. Iím sure the front dips that much with a fatty in the front"

  4. #4
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 05 2014
    AZ Member #
    280776
    Location
    Delaware

    Yes I do have VCDS

    I went out and started it again. it runs really well aside from a slight valvetrain noise. is it possible the camshaft mechanical adjusters are unlocked when they should be locked (or vice-versa)? I think if both banks were a tooth off it would run a lot worse than it does. also i don't understand how it would be off, i locked the cams and the crank and R&R'd the chains/guides/tensioners pretty much I don't think there was a whole lot of room for error.
    Last edited by JQADDINGMACHINE; 04-16-2018 at 04:01 PM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    Nov 12 2015
    AZ Member #
    364349
    Location
    Oregon

    Look at blocks 90 91 and 92 i believe it its. Snap a picture of it and upload what it shows

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

    My build log
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-s-s4-timeline

    Texpoops "Correct, but a half inch difference isnít going to accelerate wear by much. Iím sure the front dips that much with a fatty in the front"

  6. #6
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 05 2014
    AZ Member #
    280776
    Location
    Delaware

    Quote Originally Posted by VinnysS4 View Post
    Look at blocks 90 91 and 92 i believe it its. Snap a picture of it and upload what it shows

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


    block 90 wouldn't show anything

    those 2 on the far right, if it's a tooth off it'll be off about 20 degrees out of time right? i guess the engines coming out again lol

  7. #7
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    Nov 12 2015
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    364349
    Location
    Oregon

    Hmm... here is what mine look like the last time I took a picture of it.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

    My build log
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-s-s4-timeline

    Texpoops "Correct, but a half inch difference isnít going to accelerate wear by much. Iím sure the front dips that much with a fatty in the front"

  8. #8
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 05 2014
    AZ Member #
    280776
    Location
    Delaware

    Maybe I don't know what those numbers are telling me then haha. I'm not sure what to do from here

    edit:
    Tomorrow when I get home from work I will set it to TDC and put the crankshaft pin in and pull my valve covers and make sure the slots in the cams are still lined up. I also noticed a small puddle of oil dripping from the front of the engine. I did replace my check valves under the intake, was i supposed to put RTV or something on that metal gasket?

    another edit:
    I just went out and started it again because I had remembered the flapper in our intakes like to make noise so I held a good amount of pressure on the plastic arm on the front of the engine and sure enough the noise I thought was valvetrain went away. the thing is making a truly hellacious racket.
    Last edited by JQADDINGMACHINE; 04-16-2018 at 07:45 PM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 12 2015
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    364349
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    Oregon

    Quote Originally Posted by JQADDINGMACHINE View Post
    Maybe I don't know what those numbers are telling me then haha. I'm not sure what to do from here

    edit:
    Tomorrow when I get home from work I will set it to TDC and put the crankshaft pin in and pull my valve covers and make sure the slots in the cams are still lined up. I also noticed a small puddle of oil dripping from the front of the engine. I did replace my check valves under the intake, was i supposed to put RTV or something on that metal gasket?

    another edit:
    I just went out and started it again because I had remembered the flapper in our intakes like to make noise so I held a good amount of pressure on the plastic arm on the front of the engine and sure enough the noise I thought was valvetrain went away. the thing is making a truly hellacious racket.
    No the valley pan gasket need a no sealant. Just the metal gasket.
    The intake flapper tends to make a ton of noise.
    I guess setting the engine to TDC would be the way to go for now

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

    My build log
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-s-s4-timeline

    Texpoops "Correct, but a half inch difference isnít going to accelerate wear by much. Iím sure the front dips that much with a fatty in the front"

  10. #10
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 05 2014
    AZ Member #
    280776
    Location
    Delaware

    Block 93, "phase position bank 1 & 2 intake" both data displays are just blank. that deals with the mechanical adjuster right?

  11. #11
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    Oregon

    Quote Originally Posted by JQADDINGMACHINE View Post
    Block 93, "phase position bank 1 & 2 intake" both data displays are just blank. that deals with the mechanical adjuster right?
    When one of my cam sensors was un plugged, I had nothing on that bank under 93. If you have nothing in either boxes of block 93, I'd start poking around at your wiring.
    Here is what it looks like with a bad cam sensor


    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

    My build log
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-s-s4-timeline

    Texpoops "Correct, but a half inch difference isnít going to accelerate wear by much. Iím sure the front dips that much with a fatty in the front"

  12. #12
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 05 2014
    AZ Member #
    280776
    Location
    Delaware

    Just an update after pulling the engine again if anyone finds this later and wonders what happened...



    I think my car had jumped time before I started. When i did the job the first time i had rotated the crank until the cams lined up, and installed the cam locks, and assumed the engine was at TDC. I then drove the crank pin in without looking in the hole. I ended up just butting the pin in against the crankshaft, without it going into the hole thats in the crankshaft. I can see this because i pulled my engine again and looked in the hole and I can see a mark where the crank pin originally contacted the crank.

    crank hole:


    where my crank pin hit the first time:


    with the crank actually at TDC here is my cam slots



    so yeah i messed up lol, you live and you learn. I'm just happy there was something actually wrong I would have screamed if I pulled the engine and it was in time.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
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    Nov 12 2015
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    Location
    Oregon

    Damn. You know.. I did that as well and caught it before I stalling my engine. I was double/triple checking everything and it just wasn't right.
    Good job on finding it
    Man I wish i had that lift lol
    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
    1997 VW GTI VR6 (sold), 2003 Audi RS6 (sold), 2010 Audi A4 2.0T (RIP Totaled on 11/2/2015 ) 2005.5 Audi S4

    My build log
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-s-s4-timeline

    Texpoops "Correct, but a half inch difference isnít going to accelerate wear by much. Iím sure the front dips that much with a fatty in the front"



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