Bb k24, meth and hopefully e85

[Monty23]

raceware studs, arp, OEM will all be fine for your application. I am using OEM head bolts at 40-45psi BTW (my ARP studs were at the machine shop with my new engine that was getting built).

[travis_w]

Found another issue.

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[craigt1985]

Ouch, that might be toast :(

[travis_w]

Yeah. I don't know how that happened when I have zero issues on my oil sample. Is what it is I guess.

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[Silverex]

Kinda looks like it was made from the metal spring inside of the cam seal. I’d pull another cap and that one looks good I’d clean the bad one up and send it.

[travis_w]

They all look good besides that end cap. I'm going to take apart the second head tomorrow, and hopefully, there aren't any other issues.

The scarring also isn't where the seal rides. It's right on the "bearing."

I wonder if something was done during the rebuild that could have contributed to both these failers. Obviously, there are 2 different issues that do not relate with one another but seem like installer errors.

If I do go with some new heads, is there anything I should look into doing before I get them tested and resurfaced?

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[Silverex]

I ment the spring popped out, moved to that area, and left the scoring.

I forgot the heads were already off car. Knowing that I’d definitely pick another set up and have them gone through/resurfaced and toss them on.

[travis_w]

Thinking about purchasing the rs4 head in the classifieds. Would it be worth it? There are a couple hairline cracks in the dome which I have read are ok.

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[travis_w]

Or 2.8 heads.

I'm struggling with what to do moving forward. A lot of the threads are mixed on benefits on k24s.

Right now, according to Brad, I'm at 530whp at 4400 elevation. I'm not really caring about hp numbers, but more about a good power band that's fun to drive in all aspects.

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[RMode]

2.8 cams is all you need


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[travis_w]

I have to buy new heads anyway. The machine shop said one is not repairable and the other is damaged but can be used. I don't know if I like that.

Is it worth doing springs and retainers? I feel like when I'm at 7k I can keep going.

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[Silverex]

If powerband is what you care about I would steer away from 2.8 heads. I’d get another set of 2.7 heads and maybe some 2.8 intake cams but don’t expect much from them.

[travis_w]

What's your opinion on the azr heads if you have one?

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[Monty23]

What's your opinion on the azr heads if you have one?

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I have seen people complain about the AZR heads cracking at the spark plug threads on the euro forums. I am in the camp of just match the heads to the intake manifold you plan to run. So if running an RS4 IM - use 2.8 heads, if running an S4 IM - use stock 2.7 heads. People have made good power with both head types, and with stock cams we are all leaving a bunch of top end power on the table, but not much we can do since aftermarket cams were not popular on this platform. And to throw salt in the wound, people that tried aftermarket cams usually ended up with catastrophic engine failure - which is why I never bothered playing with cams other than 2.8 intake cams.

[travis_w]

I was going to reuse my stock intake manifold but port it to fit the azr heads but worried it still might be a bottle neck.

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[RMode]

I have to buy new heads anyway. The machine shop said one is not repairable and the other is damaged but can be used. I don't know if I like that.

Is it worth doing springs and retainers? I feel like when I'm at 7k I can keep going.

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Only way to know is to see things on a detailed log/dyno. How something feels is one thing, but the data will never lie.


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[CELison]

On k24s, I was running 2.38-2.45 FATS consistently in summer temps. Stock throttle body, stock IM, stock Y pipe, the standard SRM inlets, stock heads with 2.8 cams. Just food for thought. If you’re going to spend money on anything, I would do valve springs.

[travis_w]

My last log was 2.83 fats on 2.7 everything. Maybe I'll just do the cam and springs.

Would the azr heads help with spooling since the air velocity will be greater, or would it be negligible?

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[eurogz]

Bigger ports would decrease velocity not increase it. You would see in increase in volume at higher rpm, but would probably spool later not earlier.


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[travis_w]

The exhaust ports on an azr head are smaller....

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[eurogz]

You’re right I thought they were bigger like 2.4 / 2.8 heads

Real world difference is probably negligible


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[travis_w]

Deep down, I kinda want to try it, but I can't bring myself to pull the trigger.

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[CELison]

You’re in the “it’s broke, keep upgrading parts” trap. I would just put the car back together, get it running right, and enjoy it.

[travis_w]

Damn. Man, you're right.

On the lookout for some 2.7 heads.

What years do I need to look for 2.8 cams? I read that anything older that 2000 won't work.

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[travis_w]

Finally, I got some heads. I'm sending them to the machine shop tomorrow to get resurfaced

How is everyone blocking off the sai ports. 034 doesn't make the plates anymore, I read about tapping the hole and putting a bolt in, but I don't really know about that.

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[Monty23]

Finally, I got some heads. I'm sending them to the machine shop tomorrow to get resurfaced

How is everyone blocking off the sai ports. 034 doesn't make the plates anymore, I read about tapping the hole and putting a bolt in, but I don't really know about that.

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Just get some M6 screws, cut out a small piece of aluminum that fits the shape, mark and drill holes for the screws, apply some silicone sealant, tighten screws. Repeat for other head.

[xRenesis]

If you don't want to make them yourself, JAE still sells em and has gaskets. He's pretty quick.

[travis_w]

Just got word back from the machine shop. They are recommending I replace the cct because the pads are cracking. I told them I wanted to just do the pads, and he replied, "The tensioners usually fail, so we highly recommend replacing the cct." Heads have no warp, but he still suggested resurfacing the heads just to be safe and also have a little leak from a vac test, so they want to do a valve job.

Sounds like they want to do a bunch of stuff that may not need to be done.

Any opinions. I kinda just want to replace the pads and clean the surface, and throw them on.

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[travis_w]

Are there any other options out there besides the Amazon and ebay pads. Has anyone used them?

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[RMode]

The tensioners don’t fail often at all - it’s a pretty simple device. They can get a bit sticky, but can also be cleaned. The pads wear. And crack. Lots of us have changed pads. With that said, the best way is of course change the whole thing, so you know it’s new.

As for the rest, no one can say, no ones measured it/seen it. All certainly plausible though. None of which should cost anything astronomical at all (excluding replacing the solenoids completely, as the oem ones are $$$)


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[Monty23]

On top of what RMode said, don't buy the cheaper non OE tensioners. They don't hold position very well like the Audi branded tensioners. Either throw pads on the ones you have (that's what I would do since the machine shop is wrong and other than the pads, they don't fail often) or buy new OE Audi ones which probably cost as much as your whole engine... Also, I would do the valve job while they are already at the machine shop.

[RMode]

On top of what RMode said, don't buy the cheaper non OE tensioners. They don't hold position very well like the Audi branded tensioners. Either throw pads on the ones you have (that's what I would do since the machine shop is wrong and other than the pads, they don't fail often) or buy new OE Audi ones which probably cost as much as your whole engine... Also, I would do the valve job while they are already at the machine shop.

I’ve brought new ones in before - they are definitely expensive, but not entire engine expensive (high $800s each after duties are factored in)


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[travis_w]

They are nla right? I've looked but can't find anything eom

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[travis_w]

While I was in there, I needed to reseal my lower oil pan. I pulled the upper also.

Noticed oil squirter hit piston and broke off. The skirt and cylinder both look good.

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[travis_w]

I also saw this. Looks like a name and serial number.

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[travis_w]

Also got the heads from the machine shop, and both upper tensioners pads have zero cracks. They also put on the invoice that my guides are loose but didn't mention it when I was on the phone with them. I took the heads to a different machine shop, and he gave them a quick look and disagreed with most of their assessment. He is going to check them over again for a second opinion. I'll get pics as soon as I have them.

I do have the old pads from my other cct's that I can use if the lower pads are cracked. I'm going to clean out the ones on the heads and reuse.

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[RMode]

They are nla right? I've looked but can't find anything eom

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From Audi usa, I believe so. I’m able to bring them in from tradition,


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[RMode]

Also got the heads from the machine shop, and both upper tensioners pads have zero cracks. They also put on the invoice that my guides are loose but didn't mention it when I was on the phone with them. I took the heads to a different machine shop, and he gave them a quick look and disagreed with most of their assessment. He is going to check them over again for a second opinion. I'll get pics as soon as I have them.

I do have the old pads from my other cct's that I can use if the lower pads are cracked. I'm going to clean out the ones on the heads and reuse.

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Just get new pads, it doesn’t pay to start swapping used ones around.


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[travis_w]

Finished pressure washing the engine bay. Looks much better now.

I acquired a parts car that I'm going to start tearing down in the next week or so. Right now, it's getting garage organized time.

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[travis_w]

Engine is back together with a different set of heads, 2 8 intake cams, new valve seals, and I did lap the valves.

Trying to decide if I want to keep the stock fuel rail or not. I really hate the look of it and want to clean up the engine some before I put this back in.

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