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  1. #1
    Account Terminated Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 14 2017
    AZ Member #
    409856
    My Garage
    jeep Wj, & WK2
    Location
    grand rapids mi

    Unhappy Assuming limp mode but what or why

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    First post for a long time reader and search button/google guru. I will try and give all information in the first post.
    2001.5 S4 tiptronic 171,000 miles on the clock when purchased as a winter project. Picked up cheap like dirt cheap. To the point I was assuming I would be buying turbos however there was no dentist drill sounds, smoke or indications they where shot but 171k and no history.
    bone stock with lots of minor issues. No history other than car fax. original owner up to 147k Florida car given to daughter in Michigan Husband actually drove.

    Compression on cold engine(during December) is 132-137 should be really good (14.1 x 9.3=131) assume humidity in garage and tester explain higher reading
    Vag-com had to many errors to list here but I have gotten it down to Zero.

    I replaced the following;
    Audi MAF yes I tried a cheap one first Audi rookie mistake
    Spider hose assemble Audi
    Fuel filter
    Air filter
    Spark Plugs NGK BKR7E gaped at .028"
    Oil change,
    Timing belt kit. water pump, tstat, cam seals, tensioner, idlers, crank seal valve cover gaskets the works coolant flush. Remember winter project and no history.
    Vacuum lines excluding from waste gate actuators(tested good) and the one coming from N249 where it leaves below the bank 1 fuel rail and ends someplace under the intake manifold. I would like to replace this if I could without removing intake any suggestions?
    I am sure I am missing items.

    Most all codes where gone except O2, the previous owner had deleted one main cat stated it was plugged. Snow is gone time to test it out I had not driven it since I bought it on Black friday. Time to see what is really going on. Seems to run great compared to before (a ton of misfires) after warming it up time to check turbos. Wow seemed great 10 miles later not so good. I made a couple of runs with Vag-com I was running erratic boost it would be strong for a bit them gone 5 psi not 10.

    Installed boost gauge
    leak tested. OK
    tested n75 it was OK in the end replaced.
    Random boost deviation errors negative
    quadruple checked for boost leaks at 15 PSI,checked all lines again, MAF hence the OEM.
    Finally decided to remove the bank 2 main cat, bank 1 had been done previously. I assumed bank 2 was plugged when doing this I removed the down pipes an made piggy pipes. Checked end play on the turbos .002"on driver side and .0017 on passenger with indicator. Looked over the waste-gates unhooked N75 gates crack open at 7 PSI and are full open at 8 PSI vanes looked great, also noticed that the down pipe nuts where black no signs of rust is this normal or maybe newer turbos? again no history.
    Purchased second ECU with stage 2 tune, second O2 delete and imoblizer purchased from local tuner.

    Started back up sounds great Zero error codes. Couple of test runs I am very happy. Time to take it for longer run to work and back 25 miles each way. In the morning I am happy 17 psi up to 5800 tapper off to 15 near red line really runs great I think. That night headed home 8 PSI not so good, Vag-Com says replace Lamba sensors(first O2) so I replace both with Bosch not junk ones.
    Back to Zero codes still zero codes hours of checking double checking and still Zero codes still have low boost or what seams like limp mode 8 psi. I have driven it about 500 miles this way trying to figure it out.

    This is what I have noticed that is associated to when it happens ;
    No error codes
    G/S seems to be spot on only about 138 when running "limp mode"
    Throttle valve position will not go beyond 57%( throttle body adaptation through Vag-com and by battery)
    boost request and actual boost are correct ECU is calling for only 8 psi
    Seems to happen after it has been running for a time or restarted after engine has been warmed up

    When it is running correctly;
    G/S runs up to about 250s at max rpm and boost
    throttle valve position is 100%
    boost request and actual are good.
    seems to run great first thing in the morning or when its cold out like today(Michigan still has winter)

    My thoughts;
    Checked pedal position reads the same if limping or not.
    Lamba looks good I see a correction of -3.5 to +4 depending on engine load ect.
    It seems like I hear a slight change in exhaust tone when it is running correctly I assume its from the additional boost.
    Could be EGT but no error code? most measuring block in the 70s are blank EGT is called out as (bank 1) 940c and (bank 2) 945c never changes. I think they only read from 940~1040c.
    random waste gate sticking open(wouldn't this cause a boost devation error)

    I know this has been a long post, trying to be specific. I can post logs however block 115 they always match, no errors even when I run the full car through. 3rd gear pulls with and auto don't mean much as kickdown will not allow a full 2000k~6500k run.

    Any help is great! If I have missed giving information someone needs I will get it for you.

    Thanks for reading a long post!

  2. #2
    Account Terminated Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 14 2017
    AZ Member #
    409856
    My Garage
    jeep Wj, & WK2
    Location
    grand rapids mi

    Also I am running 93 octane fuel that is the norm in Michigan for premium.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 05 2009
    AZ Member #
    50303
    Location
    Denver

    Too many words...

    EGTs don't necessarily throw codes, start there. Get them coded out or buy the resistors.

    Did you check the wastegate and reference lines for leaks?

    Do you have proper fuel pressure and volume?

    Are the evap system check valves leak free, internally and externally?

  4. #4
    Account Terminated Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 14 2017
    AZ Member #
    409856
    My Garage
    jeep Wj, & WK2
    Location
    grand rapids mi

    Sorry if it was to wordy just tried to be complete.

    Wastegate and reference lines are good.

    Evap system valves are good to my knowledge 2 green ones on top are Good, black one near the fire wall connected to N249 good, did not test new ones built into the spider hose.

    I have not cut in a fuel gauge I will do that tomorrow, how do I test flow beside checking pressure when running engine WOT and verifying that pressure remains at 58 PSI.

    By EGT resisters I assume you mean the ones on ebay, or is there a hack out that I have not found?

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings LJS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 08 2013
    AZ Member #
    112983
    My Garage
    15 VW GTI S-Very WHITE
    Location
    Connecticut

    FWIW-
    Test your EGT probes----if you find you get no resistance drop as the temperature rises this fellow sells replacement boards-
    http://sidmotorsport.pl/en/
    mailto:[email protected]
    In January he quoted me 2-boards priced at 68 EURO with a 5 EURO shipping charge...lead-rime of 14 to 28 days

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings Zba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 05 2009
    AZ Member #
    50303
    Location
    Denver

    Quote Originally Posted by j8x4ngr View Post
    Sorry if it was to wordy just tried to be complete.

    Wastegate and reference lines are good.

    Evap system valves are good to my knowledge 2 green ones on top are Good, black one near the fire wall connected to N249 good, did not test new ones built into the spider hose.

    I have not cut in a fuel gauge I will do that tomorrow, how do I test flow beside checking pressure when running engine WOT and verifying that pressure remains at 58 PSI.

    By EGT resisters I assume you mean the ones on ebay, or is there a hack out that I have not found?
    Measure how much fuel comes out over a specific time period. It's in the Bentley but that will tell you if your pump is worn. Pressure easy be good, but volume could be low.

    Go after the EGTs first though.

  7. #7
    Account Terminated Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 14 2017
    AZ Member #
    409856
    My Garage
    jeep Wj, & WK2
    Location
    grand rapids mi

    Quote Originally Posted by Zba View Post
    Measure how much fuel comes out over a specific time period. It's in the Bentley but that will tell you if your pump is worn. Pressure easy be good, but volume could be low.

    Go after the EGTs first though.
    Pressure test looks fine about 51 at idle with vac connected to fpr. 58 with for disconnected. Using 0 to 100 psi gauge seems to jidder a lot when running, very rapidly.I kill the engine its rock stable at 51in 10 min it drops to 49n 60 min it's down to about 28 and holding, I wonder if my fitting is under sized causing it to jitter. I could use brass fittings the ID is larger the alum one I have had only a .217" hole.
    I don't have a Bentley manual what is the flow supposed to be?

    I also have resistors arriving tomorrow I hope.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Account Terminated Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 14 2017
    AZ Member #
    409856
    My Garage
    jeep Wj, & WK2
    Location
    grand rapids mi

    Finally fixed, the next few days will verify. EGT resistors came in today. Runs great, thanks for the help!

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings ReggieNoble's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 17 2016
    AZ Member #
    388492
    My Garage
    B5 S4 Avant
    Location
    Fl

    Surprised it hasn't been said, but if it starts acting funny again change out your coolant temp sensor. I didn't see any mention of if so you might want to change it anyways. It's a $30 part that takes 5 min to change.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J120A using Audizine mobile app

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