Originally Posted by
Biged243
Fluid amp would be nice and it would help but for the price I am going to see if I can live without it. It’s not a necessity. I forgot to mention sai block off plate, valve cover gasket is in the head gasket set, it probably would be a good idea to replace the pancake pvc it’s probably worn out and the added pressure might blow it. My radiator is fine. Didn’t think of the fuel injector cup seats, o rings is a must and I forgot to mention that. I will have to check but I think the valve stems come with the head gasket set but now that you mention it I will make sure I have a set of that. I probably should get a bunch of vac line parts or just delete. 2nd coolant temp is probably a good idea to replace too. The crankshaft seals I thought only the one was a good idea to replace when back there. I’ll look into it, while I have the engine out it probably would be a good idea to just do both. Thank you.
I forgot about fuel injector O-rings. IDK if it's recommended to re-use them or install new ones.
In which case, IDK if the new ones have to be an OEM part number, or anything else safe enough for fuel and that can tolerate it, of the right size dimensions.
A fuel injector service shop told me they prefer brown-colored Viton I think, with a light coating of certain O2 sensor-safe lubricant to help install it. Supposedly they last longer but cost a bit more.
Maybe if they were worth it, Audi'd spec them. Then again, maybe it doesn't matter much to them and is worth the cost savings, if it's just to get the car off the line.
I myself am not sure of which injector cups are worth getting, if I should just do plastic OEM this time, instead of more expensive metal ones from Phenix.
I wonder if it's worth cleaning up the intake manifold while you're at it, and what the best way is to do so.
I've thought about finding a spare one (IDK if there's multiple versions) to clean and get ready to swap on, just to have a nice-looking one. Same for other parts like valve cover, etc.
IDK how to replace valve stem seals, or which ones to get.
I've only done RMS (Rear Main Seal) on a 3.0L that people warned me would be scary, but maybe it helped that I took my time and used the soda bottle trick, trying to do it like surgery.
I hear it's recommended to put more liquid gasket in the corners or some specific area, on the seal flange metal, when putting it back on the engine.
And that one was black PTFE/Teflon, not brown rubber. Supposedly Teflon is harder to install and easier to mess up/bend, but self-lubricates and wears less of a groove into the spinning crankshaft metal than an old-school rubber one.
And for Teflon, the surfaces may need to be clean and dry to install it.
I then let it sit to conform to the crank surface for hours, before hand-cranking in the correct rotation direction, before a start-up.
But don't take my word for it, who knows if that's the proper way. It's just how I did it at the time.
Also, before it gets dry and you break it by accidentally leaning on it, there's a coolant hose kit from the upper radiator, by the reservoir. If this happens, it'll obviously cost a lot more finding it quickly from a dealership, rather than ahead of time elsewhere.
I hear those square metal clips for the fuel injectors are important. That they shouldn't be lost somewhere. I wonder if they can just be re-used, so long as they're not too bent out of shape or anything, from prying to remove them.
Originally Posted by
eljay
I'd keep the factory vacuum system. Everything is there for a reason and it works. You don't want to be chasing gremlins later.
The other things I'd add would be:
- 034 vacuum silicone hose kit
- get a timing belt kit with the new Litens tensioner.
- new oil dipstick tube
- oil pickup tube, maybe
- inspect/repair/replace any wiring harness (ignition coil and injector at least)
If you are going with such an extensive rebuild, you might as well get an AEG or FSI crankshaft and stroker pistons and make it a 2L. Also, get the head checked for any cracks - AMB heads seem to be famous for cracking near cylinder #2.
May I ask why you are doing such a rebuild? What is the mileage on the engine? Have you done compression/leakdown test?
I would just like to learn if there are any symptoms that led to this or whether this is simply preventative maintenance or future power prep project type endeavor. Thanks!
Good luck!
I feel like I heard of reported sweating, leaking, and fitment issues with 034 vacuum hose kit, that shifted forum consensus to preferring OEM replacement parts for that.
IDK 1. if this is even true and 2. if 034 simply addressed this/responded by fixing and improving their kit.
Ah yes, the harness. Forgot about that. I haven't figured out which one to pick; it seems there's multiple products on the market available for this.
And apparently some insulation put on it may be good as well.
It seems people prefer Graf water pump with metal impeller, and new manual tensioner as you said. I was trying to figure out part number and how it looks the other day.
I wonder about serpentine belt and if it's tensioner needs replacement as well.
Supposedly there's two versions of serpentine belt. I think Blauparts said 02-03 A4 is 1590mm, and 05-06 is 1570mm.
I don't get what this means.
Hopefully whatever the part is, it fits.
I know with Autozone, their system thinks different of Audi. If you go to look up brake pads for an '05 A4, they'll give the wrong pad for a B7, which came out in '05.5 but might be in the system as just "05".
Versus telling them 04 (surely a B6) vs. 07 (surely a B7)
I wonder how to check for cracks as you say, and if it only happens if the car has overheated before.
I've rented a Block Tester to try out and am reading the instructions; it seems to need using at the coolant reservoir. But maybe certain testers can also go into spark plug holes to check individual cylinder areas to be more precise on location. Unless compression/leakdown test can also help with that.
Oil pickup tube; a fish tank cleaning brush from a pet store (like a pipe cleaner) can help catch breaking dry shards when removing it, since it's dry and brittle.
I think the orange style is the one that fits, not black.
I heard about oil pickup tube. To check it for clogs, maybe clean or replace with new, and other stuff in the area such as new oil pan gasket job, cleaning the pan, etc.
MetalNerd also sells a magnetic drain plug.
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks