Stripped Thread (Oil Drain)

[AutoRacer100]

Hi All,

I went to a shop for oil change. The guy said why is it so tight to unscrew the oil drain plug. Then he found the plug went in tiled and some threads were stripped.

I'm assuming the previous shop messed up my drain thread while trying to put the drain plug back on?

Now the guy suggested me to get a tap (M14, 1.5) to refresh the thread of the oil drain hole. He said a brand new oil pan with labor would cost me $400. It is a 2010 A4 with 37k miles on it.

I hate to see this happen on my car. I feel like the previous shop/guy should have told me this if he sensed the drain hole is worn..

Any suggestions? Will re-thread the oil drain hole with the M14, 1.5 tap work? Or I'm looking to spend $400 to replace the oil pan?

[bunna4]

Re-threading can work on the oil pan. The threads will never be as strong as they once were but sounds like the guy at the last shop over tightened the drain plug. I would re thread the pan now as that is the cheapest option and keep a eye out for an used oil pan.

[amanp786]

That happened to me, took my car at the dealership for 45K oil change and they changed it up and set me free. Fast forward 6 months, I was doing my own oil change at 55K and I found out my oil drain plug was completely stripped. Went back to the dealership, they removed the stripped oil drain plug and hooked me up with 2 plugs for free. I just went up to the parts counter and asked for oil drain plug, the guy came back with two different types of plugs. Below are the pictures, and he told me, we had a lot of people complaining about the black bolt so Audi revised it and now they use the silver one. He gave me both of em. The pictures are not mine but you get the point.

[jfo]

After running the threads you could install a Fumoto valve, to avoid the need to keep removing the plug. Or get an extractor.

[AutoRacer100]

so I need a tap which it is M14, 1.5? The guy told me that is the size of the tap. How can I verify that?

[jfo]

so I need a tap which it is M14, 1.5? The guy told me that is the size of the tap. How can I verify that?

I can confirm that is the size of a spare pan plug I have. Keep in mind this is not a guaranteed solution since no one knows how bad the thread damage is.

[Novarider]

I'd try the tap. If it's successful I'd seal it with rtv and use an extractor from then on. I'd also keep an eye out for a decent price used pan as I would always be worried about that plug even if the tap "fixes" it.

[AutoRacer100]

I was told that the oil drain thread is partially damaged and I saw there were metal strips which wrapped around the plug yesterday. So the shop used a new oil plug with some sealant grease to plug the oil drain hole. There is no oil leak while the engine is running.

I see a brand new oil pan is about $135 at Europart plus labor.

A Schwaben 6 liter oil extractor at ECS Tuning cost $170. I have never used an oil extractor before. I would assume the benefit of using an oil extractor is I do not need to take the car to shop for an oil change anymore? The con is any residues or metal shavings in the motor oil won't be removed by using an oil extractor?

[NathanGreatScott]

I was told that the oil drain thread is partially damaged and I saw there were metal strips which wrapped around the plug yesterday. So the shop used a new oil plug with some sealant grease to plug the oil drain hole. There is no oil leak while the engine is running.

I see a brand new oil pan is about $135 at Europart plus labor.

A Schwaben 6 liter oil extractor at ECS Tuning cost $170. I have never used an oil extractor before. I would assume the benefit of using an oil extractor is I do not need to take the car to shop for an oil change anymore? The con is any residues or metal shavings in the motor oil won't be removed by using an oil extractor?

I just bought the schwaben extractor from ecs and used it the other day. It only cost me about $80 tho, not $170. The ease of doing the entire oil change without having to get under the car was soooo nice. I'm stilling going to drain it conventionally ever few changes, but with your situation, I would do what @jfo mentioned above. Tap your oil pan and use a valve type drain instead of a plug. Then you won't have to keep taking it in and out and possibly wearing the tapped threads.

[AutoRacer100]

I just bought the schwaben extractor from ecs and used it the other day. It only cost me about $80 tho, not $170.

Where did you get the extractor for $80? Was it an used one?

Is this tap to get? What does a metric taper do? I need only the plug tap right?

https://www.amazon.com/M14-1-5-Metri.../dp/B00MHGH9KY

[bakedziti]

Where did you get the extractor for $80? Was it an used one?

Is this tap to get? What does a metric taper do? I need only the plug tap right?

https://www.amazon.com/M14-1-5-Metri.../dp/B00MHGH9KY

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../011885sch01a/

[AutoRacer100]

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../011885sch01a/

Thanks!

[NathanGreatScott]

Yup, that's the one! ^^

idk about the tap you'll need. If the guy at the shop suggested that one, id probably go with that

[AutoRacer100]

Yup, that's the one! ^^

idk about the tap you'll need. If the guy at the shop suggested that one, id probably go with that

That one has some bad reviews on Amazon. Which company makes high quality taps as I need to making threads on steel (not soft aluminum), I may need something strong.

[NathanGreatScott]

That one has some bad reviews on Amazon. Which company makes high quality taps as I need to making threads on steel (not soft aluminum), I may need something strong.

Sorry, I have no experience with taps so I really don't have any recommendations. Heres a set that schwaben makes https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../006258sch01a/

I'd imagine if you walked into a home depot or something, you could find a decent set.

[A4x]

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../011885sch01a/

I have this one also, and it is awesome. Has held up well over 3 years and many oil changes!

I still recommend a drain out the pan every so often.

[rally3]

Hi All,

I went to a shop for oil change. The guy said why is it so tight to unscrew the oil drain plug. Then he found the plug went in tiled and some threads were stripped.

I'm assuming the previous shop messed up my drain thread while trying to put the drain plug back on?

Now the guy suggested me to get a tap (M14, 1.5) to refresh the thread of the oil drain hole. He said a brand new oil pan with labor would cost me $400. It is a 2010 A4 with 37k miles on it.

I hate to see this happen on my car. I feel like the previous shop/guy should have told me this if he sensed the drain hole is worn..

Any suggestions? Will re-thread the oil drain hole with the M14, 1.5 tap work? Or I'm looking to spend $400 to replace the oil pan?

I installed a time sert in mine,
This is what I used when mine stripped out, Not much cheaper than a pan but easier to install,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also got shorter inserts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[BMWManiac]

It seems on newer cars of Audi and BMW, the idiots (I mean engineers) decided on these easily stripped hex screws instead of a traditional bolt....then, you have the other idiots (mechanics) using impact wrench or going way past gutentight on a part requiring 18-22 ft/lbs of torque. I just did mine and bought a kit on FCPEuro that includes a new bolt to replace the plug.

[mtroxel]

I installed a time sert in mine,
This is what I used when mine stripped out, Not much cheaper than a pan but easier to install,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also got shorter inserts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've always heli-coiled. What is the advantage of these over heli-coils?

[old guy]

I've always heli-coiled. What is the advantage of these over heli-coils?

I've used both. I prefer the time-sert.

[mtroxel]

Can you cut them....make them shorter?

[old guy]

Can you cut them....make them shorter?

Yep.