Calling diagnosticator, old guy, etc. Mystery Misfire issue

[AvantNoir]

Having a bit of a mystery misfire issue here, and thought I'd shout out to the experts.
Here's the rundown:
2005 1.8T AMB
134K miles
Malone Stage 1 Tune
Forge DV
Cooling system overhauled - new thermostat, coolant flange, sensors, etc.
Coil pack harness replaced with ECS kit, and new plugs about 2K miles ago.
NGK BKR6E plugs gapped at .032
Also replaced suction jet about the same time.

Car is misfiring with following codes:
17772/P1364 - get this consistently
16685/P0301
16684/P0300
16688/P0304

Just replaced the coil packs with new R8 ones about 2 weeks ago, and the problem has gotten worse.
Replaced plugs again yesterday, and here's what is happening:
Car ran great for about 20 minutes. Slight pinging started to happen under acceleration. Pinging/knocking gets worse. Car starts to shudder at idle stop.
Piss poor acceleration, then CEL starts flashing. Car barely wants to accelerate.

I've got some new silicone vac hose and check valves on the way, as well as some PCV hoses from 034 to try and strengthen the vac system.

Any ideas/suggestions on where to look? I know you guys are going to say smoke test the vac system. Looking into that, but don't want to spend $$$ investing in a smoker system.
Thanks in advance for the help.

Pics for clicks:
Source of my problems:



Found this, and replaced it with an 034 hose


2K miles old plugs that I just pulled out:

[fR3ZNO]

The P1364 code makes me wonder if there's an issue with one of the crimps in the coilpack harness replacement. That, or the new coilpack was DOA. If you swap the #4 coil to a different cylinder, does the open circuit code stay on that cylinder or change?

[walky_talky20]

^Agree. Either the wiring or the coil is faulty (or *possibly* the ECU, but doubtful).

Those aren't OEM coils. Audi coils don't have Denso branding on them. I've seen some weird codes from brand new non-OEM coils.

If you unplug one, I'm curious if they have any markings on the top of the connector. OEM Red coils are usually made by ELDOR:

[fR3ZNO]

Especially with the meh crimpers that ECS sends with their kit and the tight quarters you're crimping in, easy to mess one up.

Give each of the crimped wires a good tug and if any pull out, you know you don't have a good crimp. Not 100% foolproof test though since you can have a good crimp on the insulation but not wire itself.

[AvantNoir]

Especially with the meh crimpers that ECS sends with their kit and the tight quarters you're crimping in, easy to mess one up.

Give each of the crimped wires a good tug and if any pull out, you know you don't have a good crimp. Not 100% foolproof test though since you can have a good crimp on the insulation but not wire itself.

I'll look at it. But so you guys know, I have a background in A/V integration, so terminating wires is something I typically don't screw up.

Any other possible suggestions? I'll get back to you guys on the crimping shortly.

[fR3ZNO]

I'll look at it. But so you guys know, I have a background in A/V integration, so terminating wires is something I typically don't screw up.

Any other possible suggestions? I'll get back to you guys on the crimping shortly.

I've crimped quite a few wires at work myself, but I know crappy crimpers can make it tough to ensure reliable crimps.

Only other suggestions would be:

-Try swapping the coil from #4 to another cylinder.

-Check plug gap for the R8 coils.

-Swap back to your original coils and adjust plug gap.

[AvantNoir]

Damn you guys. Looks like it is the ECS coil pack harness connector. Problem smoothed out as soon as I moved the harness at the connector. FYI, those terminations are impossible to release from the connectors.
Thanks for the help, I'll keep you updated on how this goes.

[fR3ZNO]

Glad to help!

[eljay]

Good to hear!

Looks like you could use a new spark plug/valve cover gasket judging by the bit of oil on the top thread of the plugs.

[Gin+]

Speaking of diagnosticator, although a bit dry at times, I do miss his posts. I hope he's good.

[mobilesuit818]

Not to steal this thread but I’m going thru something very similar.

034 Coil Harness installed 10k miles ago

Engine codes P0301/P0303/P0304 (note that number 2 wasn’t on there).

Checked the harness and injectors wiring with no issues.

Pulled the coil and spark plugs and notice #4 was covered in black soot(running rich), other plugs were normal.

Decided to pull out the VCDS and was checking channel data #26 which is for Coil voltage as measured by the ECU and noticed that #2 cylinder Voltage was always a little higher than the rest even with load.

#4 voltage was lower than the rest

So decided to take some carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks and slowly sprayed at different places especially around the intake and injectors and found a leak at #4 injector and didn’t find a leak anywhere else.

I ordered the injector and cup seals last night but it won’t be here for a few days and planning to perform a boost leak tomorrow.

What do you guys think about the codes and the coil voltage being higher on #2?

This one has gotten my scratching my head...


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Gin+]

I believe you're referring to knock sensor signal voltages. It's normal for them vary across the cylinders.

[mobilesuit818]

Copy on that...it was super late and didn’t notice it was knock sensor


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[AvantNoir]

Well, still getting the 17772 misfire code every now and then. More often than not. Happens once every day or so. I've replace everything associated with this and checked everything.
Registration is up and I need to get this thing smogged ASAP and can't do it if it "might" throw a code while being tested.
I'm at a total loss.

[IndoReef]

Well, still getting the 17772 misfire code every now and then. More often than not. Happens once every day or so. I've replace everything associated with this and checked everything.
Registration is up and I need to get this thing smogged ASAP and can't do it if it "might" throw a code while being tested.
I'm at a total loss.

Did it suddenly come back? I thought the issue was solved with the ecs harness being a little loose.

[AvantNoir]

Did it suddenly come back? I thought the issue was solved with the ecs harness being a little loose.

Never really went away. The connector on the ECS harness was part of the problem in that it was able to move around from engine vibration that would set it off, you'd start hearing valve clatter then code. I tied down the harness to stabilize it so it doesn't move. This seemed to help, no more valve clatter, but I'm still throwing the code the code every now and then.

[Kevin C]

Hate to say it but it sure sounds like the pins in the connector have lost tension and the surfaces have become damaged. I would consider a new terminal pins and either inspect the pins in the coils or replace them. The pins and are typically plated to improve conductivity and prevent corrosion. Those surfaces have a limited number if insertion cycles before they get worn and you only have the bare substrate. If the connectors are loose you will also get fretting damage, where small localized movements damages the plating. Same result where you get a poor connection.

[AvantNoir]

Hate to say it but it sure sounds like the pins in the connector have lost tension and the surfaces have become damaged. I would consider a new terminal pins and either inspect the pins in the coils or replace them. The pins and are typically plated to improve conductivity and prevent corrosion. Those surfaces have a limited number if insertion cycles before they get worn and you only have the bare substrate. If the connectors are loose you will also get fretting damage, where small localized movements damages the plating. Same result where you get a poor connection.

I'm leaning towards this as being the problem. The connectors ECS uses are kind of on the cheap side. Just ordered new Deutsch connectors FTW. Just need to swap them out . Also looking at the connections on the coil packs. Thanks!

[itsmatt33]

https://www.europaparts.com/coil-pac...j0971658l.html


this is why i always tell people to go the OEM route. use this harness instead. goes all the way to the ECU needs minor mod for b6. napa has them OEM branded as napa for much cheaper

[AvantNoir]

https://www.europaparts.com/coil-pac...j0971658l.html


this is why i always tell people to go the OEM route. use this harness instead. goes all the way to the ECU needs minor mod for b6. napa has them OEM branded as napa for much cheaper

That's the one I wanted to use, but it was coming up as No Longer Available when I did this two years ago. Now Europarts has them? Gonna have to order one! Thanks!

[itsmatt33]

That's the one I wanted to use, but it was coming up as No Longer Available when I did this two years ago. Now Europarts has them? Gonna have to order one! Thanks!

like for the part number on ebay. NAPA has them branded as napa but really its just a repackaged OEM for way less.

[deyrag]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Co...QAAOSwYUZb~uQF