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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Clunk from front driver side...HELP!

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    Hey guys,
    I have a clunk that only happens on take off when I floor it or when I brake hard. It's one solid clunk that comes and goes. I thought it would be the bushings so I replaced upper and lower control arms, sway bar mounts/rubbers. The sound has decreased but it's still there. I dunno what else it could be? Its driving me nuts. I feel the clunk right under my left foot when it's on the rest pedal. Axle assembly? Tie rod? ....?

    The clunk started off low and then became worse. I dont think it's coming from the brakes or strut/spring assembly because it was there before I swapped to coilovers and replaced brake pads.

    Ive spent over 1000 bucks in parts and elbow grease swapping out parts as process of elimination. Next step would be axle assembly but I dont wanna buy a cheap one for it to break in 1 month. I would prolly shed the money on OEM ~$1000. Any help/recommendations before spending more money would be greatly appreciated.

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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings cal3thousand's Avatar
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    Take a look at the spring seat. If that's busted, it could be making those sounds.

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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings WarmFuzzies's Avatar
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    Completely random but have to looked to see if your garage door module is seated in its correct position?

    I say this because I just noticed the last person to touch our allroad didn’t put the module back and left it swinging by the cable...

    A long shot but worth a quick look


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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings ichi d's Avatar
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    what about motor and tranny mounts? i heard when they fail they can make clunking noises as well. i might be wrong but worth a look at.
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  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cal3thousand View Post
    Take a look at the spring seat. If that's busted, it could be making those sounds.

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    Like I mentioned the clunk was there before I swapped my entire suspension to coilovers.

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  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarmFuzzies View Post
    Completely random but have to looked to see if your garage door module is seated in its correct position?

    I say this because I just noticed the last person to touch our allroad didn’t put the module back and left it swinging by the cable...

    A long shot but worth a quick look


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    The clunk is far than a module banging on some metal. This clunk is like heavy metal being hit by a big hammer.

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  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ichi d View Post
    what about motor and tranny mounts? i heard when they fail they can make clunking noises as well. i might be wrong but worth a look at.
    So, I read about this. It's not far out of the picture as my cabin has been a little "vibraty" lately. But, I feel like it cant be it since the clunk got a little better when I replaced the control arms. Or did the control arms tighten everything up and tighten up tie rods and axle allowing for less engine sway?
    I mean it's very possible. Maybe it'll be worth replacing the motor/tranny mounts. That definitely will not cost 1K and needed either way. But would that also explain the clunk on hard brake?

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  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Check the 4 front subframe bushes too. Mine have collapsed and are on order. They make more of a clunk/rattle over uneven roads, but worth checking out.

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkv View Post
    Check the 4 front subframe bushes too. Mine have collapsed and are on order. They make more of a clunk/rattle over uneven roads, but worth checking out.
    Subframe bushes look fine. no signs of wear and tear.

    It's a freaking annoying bang. just one clunk. Of note: i just thought of this... before i replaced the control arms, sway bar bushings i used to hear a steering wheel clunking noise when i turned the wheel all the way to right. It was only producible when i was parallel parking. It never clunked when I was driving. This is making me think it's my CV joint and will need a new axle. The only confusing thing is that clunking when parallel parking is now gone.

    Could it really be the axle? if so, what would explain the clunking when parallel parking going away? I'm just confused and frustrated over this
    Last edited by mrismail; 04-13-2018 at 04:39 PM.
    2011 3.2L S-Line Premium Plus
    Current mods:
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  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings
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    There was a TSB on this issue and it had to do with the brakes. I hear the same noise when I turn the wheel all the way in one direction, usually when reversing.

    Will post link once I find it. It was here on AZ too. Hopefully it will help jog others memories on the brake issue from thats related to your post.

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings haloguy628's Avatar
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    Did you check the connecting links on the sway bar? There are two bushings on each link and those bushings can rot and disintegrate. Then you will have the same symptoms you describe. Metallic clank when accelerating, going over speed bump or braking.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    I know you do not wish it to be the axle, but have you gotten under there to really give the front axles a visual inspection? Tug/twist on them to see if you get any play? Torn boots flinging grease everywhere?

    EDIT- I ask because it's possible that you already had an axle on its way out, and putting it on a new pinion angle (by way of lowering) is accelerating its demise and starting to give you signs. Not saying this is what it is, but certainly worth looking further into.

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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings cal3thousand's Avatar
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    I just thought about this some more. And after reading this thread, https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...mount-2946787/, I think you could have a worn snub mount.
    Danton Black: 2009 Audi C6.5 A6 Sedan (Quattro, 3.0T, Prestige)
    I miss my Avant, longing for a 2011 3.0T
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    Just some small cosmetic mods while getting to Stage 0

  14. #14
    Senior Member Three Rings akingzkid's Avatar
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    Cal3thousand I think has hit the nail on the head. I immediately thought of the snub mount. I just replaced mine. I was reading through the comments thinking someone was gonna mention it. I got to the last comment on the thread and there it was. That's actually my post that cal3thousand is referencing.

    Yes, check the snub mount.

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyldkard View Post
    There was a TSB on this issue and it had to do with the brakes. I hear the same noise when I turn the wheel all the way in one direction, usually when reversing.

    Will post link once I find it. It was here on AZ too. Hopefully it will help jog others memories on the brake issue from thats related to your post.
    Brakes were changed last month... the noise persisted. I dont think it's the brakes. No issues braking.

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  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by haloguy628 View Post
    Did you check the connecting links on the sway bar? There are two bushings on each link and those bushings can rot and disintegrate. Then you will have the same symptoms you describe. Metallic clank when accelerating, going over speed bump or braking.
    I did. As mentioned in my OP, I changed the links with the control arms. Clunk persisted. They were first on my rule out process.

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  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95blkmax View Post
    I know you do not wish it to be the axle, but have you gotten under there to really give the front axles a visual inspection? Tug/twist on them to see if you get any play? Torn boots flinging grease everywhere?

    EDIT- I ask because it's possible that you already had an axle on its way out, and putting it on a new pinion angle (by way of lowering) is accelerating its demise and starting to give you signs. Not saying this is what it is, but certainly worth looking further into.
    I did... no torn boots. No grease anywhere. It looks functionally ok from the outside. When tugged on it a little play is noticeable. Maybe like 2mm's. The same play is present on the right side. Normal varient? I know this doesnt exclude the axle so I've been thinking about buying a FEQ axle for 100 bucks and swapping it out with the OEM axle to see if it fixes the problem. If problem is fixed, I'll either have OEM one rebuilt or buy a new axle from dealer. I heard too many crappy things about the FEQ axle to keep it on the car.

    Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S9+
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    Current mods:
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  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cal3thousand View Post
    I just thought about this some more. And after reading this thread, https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...mount-2946787/, I think you could have a worn snub mount.
    Snub mount was changed last month with brake pads. Clunk persisted.

    Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S9+
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    Current mods:
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  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akingzkid View Post
    Cal3thousand I think has hit the nail on the head. I immediately thought of the snub mount. I just replaced mine. I was reading through the comments thinking someone was gonna mention it. I got to the last comment on the thread and there it was. That's actually my post that cal3thousand is referencing.

    Yes, check the snub mount.
    I wish that was the issue.... quick, easy fix. But, unfortunately it wasnt.

    Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S9+
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    Current mods:
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings JayDog747's Avatar
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    Some common clunking problems:

    Control arms and sway bar links
    Not replacing caliper guide pin bushings
    Not torquing caliper carrier bolts to 140 ft lbs.
    Upper strut mount bushing...Was this replaced when you went to coilovers?

    Tie Rods...When removed from the steering knuckle, the inner rod should support the weight of the outer rod. If not replace both.

    Axles...Do you hear any clicking sounds while driving at slow speeds(5mph) turning left or right forward and reverse. Also while While driving, let's say "on the offense" when you let off the gas and get back on, do you notice any play in the drive-train? If you're going to get axles, go to Raxles.com

    How many miles are on the car btw?

  21. #21
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayDog747 View Post
    Some common clunking problems:

    Control arms and sway bar links
    Not replacing caliper guide pin bushings
    Not torquing caliper carrier bolts to 140 ft lbs.
    Upper strut mount bushing...Was this replaced when you went to coilovers?

    Tie Rods...When removed from the steering knuckle, the inner rod should support the weight of the outer rod. If not replace both.

    Axles...Do you hear any clicking sounds while driving at slow speeds(5mph) turning left or right forward and reverse. Also while While driving, let's say "on the offense" when you let off the gas and get back on, do you notice any play in the drive-train? If you're going to get axles, go to Raxles.com

    How many miles are on the car btw?
    Control arms and sway bar links: those were all replaced.
    Brakes: not the issue - replaced, tightened everything.
    Upper strut mount bushing: was not replaced. But upon inspection looks fine. Little threads on top do not appear warn down. I ruled this out by putting right front strut assembly on left side and vice versa. Clunk persisted on left side.
    Tie Rods: I just replaced them on saturday. Clunk persists.
    Axle: no to clunking noise when driving at low speed. I only experienced that clunking noise when I parallel parked but that went away when I replaced the control arms.
    Current mles: 73K
    Clunking started at ~65K miles

    I'll report back when I do the axle trial.

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  22. #22
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Update: I replaced axle assembly (got one from Raxles). At first clunk went away but then came back when I braked hard. Now, it's less but it's still there on acceleration and deceleration. 😤😤😤


    Anyone???

    I think I'm just gonna sell the car.


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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kevin1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrismail View Post
    I think I'm just gonna sell the car.


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    I tried holding on to my old C6 far too long. Based on my experience these cars start becoming very expensive to maintain at the 8 year - 125k mile mark. They then become insane after that. In retrospect, I should have sold the old car at the 7 year mark, so you may be on to something when you say you are thinking of selling. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
    19 years and 320,000 miles behind the wheel of an Audi

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  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin1 View Post
    I tried holding on to my old C6 far too long. Based on my experience these cars start becoming very expensive to maintain at the 8 year - 125k mile mark. They then become insane after that. In retrospect, I should have sold the old car at the 7 year mark, so you may be on to something when you say you are thinking of selling. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
    I have engine mounts on the way. I'm gonna replace those. In all honesty, I was being sarcastic about selling the car. There are no other issues with the car. Runs smooth and drives well except for that clunk.
    I was linked up with an Audi mechanic today through a friend of mine and he suggested that it might be the engine mount, like others did here. He said he recently had a similar situation and the mount was the culprit. I'll report back on Monday when I get the mounts and install them.
    2011 3.2L S-Line Premium Plus
    Current mods:
    ST Coilovers | G6 3000K LED Fog Lights | Blacked out with PlastiDip: Chrome trim, front grill, rear emblem, corner lights | Quad tips | 25% 3M tint all around | 4000K LED license plate | 20x10 Rear and 20x9 Front Wheels| Black vinyl wrapped roof | Rear trunk spoiler | Rear window spoiler | Tinted rear lights | SLine steering wheel with paddle shifters |

  25. #25
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    20180423_222153.jpeg
    Well, ladies and gentlemen....
    The problem has been found and fixed. My left side engine mount was completely detached!
    About 1500 bucks later and 2 weekends of labor. I'll definitely be keeping the car! Just a sigh of relief.

    Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S9+
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  26. #26
    Veteran Member Three Rings JayDog747's Avatar
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    Glad to hear you found it. Don't worry about replacing the other parts. At 73k, it wasn't going to be long before you would've had to replace them anyway. Chalk up another one to common knocking problems.

  27. #27
    Established Member Two Rings mrismail's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayDog747 View Post
    Glad to hear you found it. Don't worry about replacing the other parts. At 73k, it wasn't going to be long before you would've had to replace them anyway. Chalk up another one to common knocking problems.
    Yea... I'm happy I replaced it all. Driving the streets of NYC isn't that settling for lowered cars. I just came back from a test drive, clunk is gone and I noticed an increase in power. I guess less sway in engine more power to wheels. Or maybe it's just in my head cause I'm a happy camper! (happy dance)

    Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S9+
    2011 3.2L S-Line Premium Plus
    Current mods:
    ST Coilovers | G6 3000K LED Fog Lights | Blacked out with PlastiDip: Chrome trim, front grill, rear emblem, corner lights | Quad tips | 25% 3M tint all around | 4000K LED license plate | 20x10 Rear and 20x9 Front Wheels| Black vinyl wrapped roof | Rear trunk spoiler | Rear window spoiler | Tinted rear lights | SLine steering wheel with paddle shifters |

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