I used this post for a reference- https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ntent-Analyzer
I’m by no means a mechanic but found this to be rather easy once I had the right parts. I did have a little trouble but mainly bc St8shot didn’t email me back right away and thought I found another solution.
Parts list:
- GM Flex Fuel Sensor -$35
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FW0C4WE..._IkaZAb9E2T9KY
- Str8shot ECA -$75
[email protected]
(Here’s his original post- http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32356 )
- Fuel line fittings -$12
- Zip ties - $1
- Mini Add-a-Circuit Holder- $7
- Electrical Female Disconnects Gauge 16-14 - $6
- Butt Connectors 16-14 - $2
- Ring Terminals 1/4” 16-14 - $6
- M6 1.0 Hex Nut a $6
This could be an alternative from what I heard to Str8shot’s ECA:
K Tuner Flex Fuel Converter- http://www.ktuner.com/KTunerHelp/fle..._converter.htm
6ft Prewired E85 Sensor Connector- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0749DJYGQ..._xPaZAbHRDT6PC
The first part I did take to my local mechanic to have him do this part bc I didn’t want gas everywhere. This is disconnecting the fuel lines at the front left part of the engine. No need for cutting the hose and really the only PITA part of this is the tab, which connects the fuel line to the front part of the engine and wedged underneath. Once you get the stock fuel fitting off the lines we added the fuel line fittings to each side of the Flex Fuel Sensor and installed the hoses again. We replaced the factory quick connect hose clamps with standard flathead hose clamps for easier reinstallation.
Next is running the ECA, which both it and the ground wire were wrapped with wiring harness electrical tape. You’ll need to remove the air box and air duct to do so. The only tricky part is you need to remove the two rear screws from the air box to remove the back bracket plate. I ran the ECA first below where the factory air duct sits along the radiator and zip tied it on each side to a metal hose that went along the top. I then went under the air box mounting plate, to the rubber grommet that leads into the cabin of the car. From the air duct, I routed it over and zip tied it to the breather hose that attaches to the front of the intake. Then, it will go underneath the air box mount without letting it sit on the DSG/Haldex fluid tank, then back up a bit to zip tie it to a wiring harness right above where it connects with another set of wires. I did this so the zip tie won’t slide down over time. Once you’ve done this you can poke it through the rubber grommet, you will need to cut a hole through it so you can reinstall it.
Once you have the ECA you can plug the other part of the ECA in and start wiring. The pictures should demonstrate how to do so, but I’ll give you the breakdown. For the Green wire I used the female disconnect and plugged them into the brown wire from the P3, being Analog 1. The Red wire I used the add-a-circuit and unplugged F49 sense that seemed to be the only 5 amp fuse that only got power when the vehicle was on. The 5 amp fuse goes into the first slot to replace the fuse you pulled. The 3 amp fuse goes in the second slot and will power the ECA to translate the signal. I used the 3 amp fuse bc I was told that you didn’t want a higher amp than what you are replacing. You’ll want to plug this in with the fuse amp numbers facing up that way you can fit it back in it’s appropriate spot and it’s not perfect but you should not have to worry about it coming loose. The ground wire I used the butt connectors to connect an extra wire (not pictured) to run to the ground back the way we came to it’s appropriate spot under the hood.
Lastly is confirming it works on your P3. Through the configurations/setup menu, which is done by holding both buttons for a few seconds. Next I scrolled through the settings to get to A1, n screen. Press the left button to change it to A1, y. Next is the decimal points which I set for 2, my high number was set for 99.99 and 00.00 as the low. If you’re like me and still on pump gas for the time being the gauge will show 9.68 or close to it for the ethanol content.
Hopefully this helps some of you run E85 in the near future or a nice upgrade to testing the E85 without doing very much at all. I’m free for any other questions you may have about the installation.
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Originally Posted by PeteJ
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