Transmission overheating

[pez81]

Got a strange warning today. Something like gearbox overheating please change driving style.

Thing is I wasn't really hammering it but it was a bit wet out and the car had just done a 3 hour drive on the motorway below 70mph most.of the way. I let it cool down a bit then went out for some fuel and got the warning. I think it was a 3rd gear pull, maybe 4th.

Car felt fine no strange noises or judders.

Think it happened a month back but I was pushing the car before it was warmed up and did a funny gear shit which I think caused it.


Any ideas?

I'm APR stage 2 and stock TCU tune.

I just loaded my EPL TCU tune on as I've not had it on with my APR ecu tune and wondered if it would increase clamping pressures and resolve it. It's actually very smooth so I may keep it on.

Wondering if there's too much torque for the transmission?

Feedback appreciated

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[OlyS6]

It my be worth checking the transmission fluid level, although I'd think it would be odd for a 2016 to have a leak this early. If you have a VAGCOM cable, it might be worth trying the transmission calibration procedure that you can find on this forum as well. I've had both the EPL and APR TCU tunes on my car without issues thus far. So have plenty of other folks, so I'd be a bit concerned that there's something going on with your transmission itself. What sort of mileage do you have on the car?

[Arslàán]

Got a strange warning today. Something like gearbox overheating please change driving style.

Thing is I wasn't really hammering it but it was a bit wet out and the car had just done a 3 hour drive on the motorway below 70mph most.of the way. I let it cool down a bit then went out for some fuel and got the warning. I think it was a 3rd gear pull, maybe 4th.

Car felt fine no strange noises or judders.

Think it happened a month back but I was pushing the car before it was warmed up and did a funny gear shit which I think caused it.


Any ideas?

I'm APR stage 2 and stock TCU tune.

I just loaded my EPL TCU tune on as I've not had it on with my APR ecu tune and wondered if it would increase clamping pressures and resolve it. It's actually very smooth so I may keep it on.

Wondering if there's too much torque for the transmission?

Feedback appreciated

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I am having same issue with mine. It only happens when car is cold, once it reaches optimal temperature warning from dash goes away. I did scan when it came first time about week ago and error was

8030 - Cooling Oil Valve
P179 D - Electrical Malfunction

What I have read is it could be coolant temperature sender G509. I'm getting it changed tomorrow and hopefully it will resolve the issue. If not than it's expensive job. It's on TSB as well.

Will update once it's done.

[pez81]

It my be worth checking the transmission fluid level, although I'd think it would be odd for a 2016 to have a leak this early. If you have a VAGCOM cable, it might be worth trying the transmission calibration procedure that you can find on this forum as well. I've had both the EPL and APR TCU tunes on my car without issues thus far. So have plenty of other folks, so I'd be a bit concerned that there's something going on with your transmission itself. What sort of mileage do you have on the car?

31,000 miles. So quite a few for a 2 year old car. Thanks Oly.i don't have vagcom is there another way to check coolant level? I believe the first service is 35-40k miles for the day coolant. So. It far off that. Strangely it's never done it on launch or really hard driving. Just cold starts and when the weather has been a little wet.

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[pez81]

I am having same issue with mine. It only happens when car is cold, once it reaches optimal temperature warning from dash goes away. I did scan when it came first time about week ago and error was

8030 - Cooling Oil Valve
P179 D - Electrical Malfunction

What I have read is it could be coolant temperature sender G509. I'm getting it changed tomorrow and hopefully it will resolve the issue. If not than it's expensive job. It's on TSB as well.

Will update once it's done.

Thanks buddy. Mine just flashed up then went away. No limp home mode or cut in power. The warning went straight off

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[P_G]

I have a VCDS cable you could borrow if you want to scan your car, just let me know.

[pez81]

I have a VCDS cable you could borrow if you want to scan your car, just let me know.

Cheers mate that be ace

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[pez81]

I have a VCDS cable you could borrow if you want to scan your car, just let me know.

Wanna borrow my dragy?

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[DGVR6]

Are your tire pressure set to specs? I had that once on a high speed run but tire pressures were pretty off at the rear

[pez81]

Are your tire pressure set to specs? I had that once on a high speed run but tire pressures were pretty off at the rear

Probably not

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[OlyS6]

31,000 miles. So quite a few for a 2 year old car. Thanks Oly.i don't have vagcom is there another way to check coolant level? I believe the first service is 35-40k miles for the day coolant. So. It far off that. Strangely it's never done it on launch or really hard driving. Just cold starts and when the weather has been a little wet.

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When you get the chance, I highly recommend getting a VAGCOM cable from europaparts.com ; they've got a 3 VIN version for $199 USD that is invaluable for diagnosing issues with the car. The VCDS software is a free download. I hadn't thought of a faulty temp sensor, which would make complete sense and be comparatively inexpensive as opposed to a true transmission issue.

[pez81]

When you get the chance, I highly recommend getting a VAGCOM cable from europaparts.com ; they've got a 3 VIN version for $199 USD that is invaluable for diagnosing issues with the car. The VCDS software is a free download. I hadn't thought of a faulty temp sensor, which would make complete sense and be comparatively inexpensive as opposed to a true transmission issue.

Thanks Oly. Can I use my windows tablet? I only own Mac's otherwise. Thanks brother I'm hoping it's just a sensor.

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[pez81]

Actually I have had a few sensor issues in the past which I thought nothing of. And the climate control keeps going screwy. Hot when it's on 17 degrees etc

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[JasonGA]

This happened to me for a couple of months along with "Transmission Malfunction" warnings. I ended up needing the mechatronics unit replaced. I have a 2013.

[pez81]

This happened to me for a couple of months along with "Transmission Malfunction" warnings. I ended up needing the mechatronics unit replaced. I have a 2013.

Oh I definitely didn't want to here that. Mine is a 2016 so hopefully won't be that.

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[JasonGA]

Completely understand. I didn’t find anything when I did a search before. Got Audi to cover repairs thankfully. If you have to go down that road and aren’t under warranty, there is a new mechatronocs unit that has been for sale for a while in the classifieds.

[wwhan]

The transmission temperature sensor G509 is in the mechatronics module.

SSP 990193: Transmission Protection Functions
"Control Module Temperature Monitoring High temperatures have a negative impact on the useful life and performance of electronic components. Due to the integration of the transmission control module into the transmission housing (lubricated by ATF), it is very important to monitor the temperature of both the electronics and ATF. When the temperature reaches approx. 275°F (135°C) (measured by one of the two temperature sensors in the transmission control module), the electronics must be protected against a further rise in temperature. When this threshold value is exceeded, the transmission control module initiates a reduction in engine torque to reduce heat input. Up to a temperature of approx. 293°F (145 °C), engine torque can be reduced gradually until the engine is at idle. When the engine is at idle, the clutches are open and there is no power transmission from the engine to the drive wheels. When the protective function is activated, an entry is made in the fault memory and the following text message is displayed in the instrument cluster: “You can continue driving to a limited extent.”

"Clutch Protection
If the clutch cooling oil temperature exceeds a value of approx. 320°F (160 °C), as determined by G509, the clutch is within a critical temperature range that can damage it. These temperatures occur, for example, when accelerating on extreme gradients, when towing a trailer, or when the vehicle is held stationary on an uphill slope using the accelerator and the clutch without engaging the brake. As a safety precaution, engine torque is reduced when cooling oil temperature exceeds 320°F (160 °C.) If the cooling oil temperature continues to rise, engine torque is gradually reduced, sometimes to idle. When the engine is at idle, the clutches are open and there is no power transmission from the engine to the drive wheels. When the protective function is initiated, an entry is made in the fault memory and the following text message is displayed in the instrument cluster: “You can continue driving to a limited extent.”

"As an additional safety precaution, the clutch temperature is determined using a computer model. If the computed temperature exceeds a pre-defined value, the above mentioned precautions are taken."

[pez81]

The transmission temperature sensor G509 is in the mechatronics module.

SSP 990193: Transmission Protection Functions
"Control Module Temperature Monitoring High temperatures have a negative impact on the useful life and performance of electronic components. Due to the integration of the transmission control module into the transmission housing (lubricated by ATF), it is very important to monitor the temperature of both the electronics and ATF. When the temperature reaches approx. 275°F (135°C) (measured by one of the two temperature sensors in the transmission control module), the electronics must be protected against a further rise in temperature. When this threshold value is exceeded, the transmission control module initiates a reduction in engine torque to reduce heat input. Up to a temperature of approx. 293°F (145 °C), engine torque can be reduced gradually until the engine is at idle. When the engine is at idle, the clutches are open and there is no power transmission from the engine to the drive wheels. When the protective function is activated, an entry is made in the fault memory and the following text message is displayed in the instrument cluster: “You can continue driving to a limited extent.”

"Clutch Protection
If the clutch cooling oil temperature exceeds a value of approx. 320°F (160 °C), as determined by G509, the clutch is within a critical temperature range that can damage it. These temperatures occur, for example, when accelerating on extreme gradients, when towing a trailer, or when the vehicle is held stationary on an uphill slope using the accelerator and the clutch without engaging the brake. As a safety precaution, engine torque is reduced when cooling oil temperature exceeds 320°F (160 °C.) If the cooling oil temperature continues to rise, engine torque is gradually reduced, sometimes to idle. When the engine is at idle, the clutches are open and there is no power transmission from the engine to the drive wheels. When the protective function is initiated, an entry is made in the fault memory and the following text message is displayed in the instrument cluster: “You can continue driving to a limited extent.”

"As an additional safety precaution, the clutch temperature is determined using a computer model. If the computed temperature exceeds a pre-defined value, the above mentioned precautions are taken."

Wow that was detailed and really useful thanks mate. I was driving up a bit of a steep bit on a road and it was wet. I'll get it checked out. So it's just a safety precaution you think?

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[OlyS6]

Thanks Oly. Can I use my windows tablet? I only own Mac's otherwise. Thanks brother I'm hoping it's just a sensor.

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Yes, you should be able to use a windows tablet just fine. I use bootcamp to run windows 10 on an old mac laptop and it runs VCDS just fine


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[seanj130]

Eh, just buy a new car. Thing is probably totaled.


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[pez81]

Eh, just buy a new car. Thing is probably totaled.


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Thanks for your helpful comment Sean. I'll just pop the mink furs on the fire whilst I'm at it.

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[seanj130]

No problem man. Let me know if you need any other practical advice. I can probably cook a steak

Thanks for your helpful comment Sean. I'll just pop the mink furs on the fire whilst I'm at it.

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[pez81]

No problem man. Let me know if you need any other practical advice. I can probably cook a steak







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Yeah will do. Only if it's an endangered species like rhino or gorilla

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[seanj130]

Giraffes only. Have to get them on the list.

Yeah will do. Only if it's an endangered species like rhino or gorilla

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[Arslàán]

Thanks for your helpful comment Sean. I'll just pop the mink furs on the fire whilst I'm at it.

You got any update yet???

I had mine today with transmission specialist and they said it's electro plate kit and transmission cooling solenoid that needs changing. I was pretty sure about solenoid as most information I gathered pointed in this direction. Also vagcom was throwing P179D - Electirical Malfunction error code as well.

I have been quoted £1100 + vat for the part and labour but they refuse to do the job if I supply the parts. Looks like need to find another specialist or stealers job

[pez81]

Not had a fault since and borrowing vagcom this week. I don't want to go to the dealer so I'm going to get the box serviced and see what they say. How much can that part be a solenoid? Go independent buddy

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[pez81]

Sorry misread. So they're making the money in the part which is probably a big mark up.

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[pez81]

http://www.ecutesting.com/catalogue/...m27256b-d.html

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[wwhan]

On the A6 & A8 models there have been some connector corrosion issues.

[pez81]

Bit of update. No more warnings as yet. But my car wouldn't start first time the other day. It had been washed thoroughly so maybe it got water on a relay or something. I do have a wire where the exhaust flap was disconnected so maybe that got water on it. But anyway had to give it throttle to start. Then my air con messed up a few days before and I couldn't changed down with the paddle but would change with the stick.

Kind of pointing me towards a battery or electrical fault. Maybe just a gremlin but it's odd.
Car seems to be fine otherwise. Also since I've had the car and installed a dash cam if I've not been doing long journeys I'll get a fault code saying voltage low. Could it be the battery? Recently my driving has changed and I'm just doing work and back which is about 8 minutes each way.



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[s4nicetry]

Bit of update. No more warnings as yet. But my car wouldn't start first time the other day. It had been washed thoroughly so maybe it got water on a relay or something. I do have a wire where the exhaust flap was disconnected so maybe that got water on it. But anyway had to give it throttle to start. Then my air con messed up a few days before and I couldn't changed down with the paddle but would change with the stick.

Kind of pointing me towards a battery or electrical fault. Maybe just a gremlin but it's odd.
Car seems to be fine otherwise. Also since I've had the car and installed a dash cam if I've not been doing long journeys I'll get a fault code saying voltage low. Could it be the battery? Recently my driving has changed and I'm just doing work and back which is about 8 minutes each way.



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Yeah, low voltage can cause some electrical gremlins for sure. Hopefully your charging system isn't an issue but with the car doing nothing but those short distance drives it's probably just the battery. Throw it on a charger and see if your issues go away.

[pez81]

Yeah, low voltage can cause some electrical gremlins for sure. Hopefully your charging system isn't an issue but with the car doing nothing but those short distance drives it's probably just the battery. Throw it on a charger and see if your issues go away.

Thanks buddy I'll do that. It would make sense that's the issue.

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[RAF_S7]

Hey Tom,

Is your dash cam wired to an ACC fuse, thats only powered when the car is running?

16 minutes of running a day is not much.... I keep my battery topped up using a CTEK charger as there are a lot of electronics drawing some power, even if the car is not running.

Battery gremlins can introduce a whole host of fault codes!

[pez81]

Hey John thanks for the reply. I think so as it uses it's internal battery when the car is not running. However it's been unplugged for about 2 months. The only other thing I can think of is the obd11 dongle i left plugged in. I have done that hundreds of times but I also did it once on my wife's car which does even fewer miles per day than mine and it drained the battery overnight. So maybe that's it.
I ran the car out for about an hour yesterday and it was fine today. Ever since new the car has always had some strange Voltage issue i just ignored it LOL.
Oh now I need new rotors all round too, do I go OEM and pads (yellow stuff just sucked) or do I try Brembo or something else?