A6 Trunk Liner and Parcel Shelf Removal for Sound Dampening

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Hey guys,

In preparation for subwoofer install, I thought I'd to some exploration and sound dampening in the rear of my 2018 A6. I have a few questions I thought some of you may have already contemplated:

1. I am assuming that I'll benefit in terms of limiting resonance and minimizing road noise with a combination of a Dynamat-like product stuck to metal and a foam/vinyl combination (like SecondSkin Luxury Liner Pro, which I believe SubterFUSE used in his S6) above that; does anyone have experience to suggest this is over-kill?
2. In order to remove trunk liner side panels, is it required to fold down rear seat AND remove side bolster of seat?
3. If I need to remove seat side bolster, does the seat bottom need to be removed?
4. If removing rear seat bottom, from what I've read, it seems clips likely break, are they "dealer only" parts; where's a good place to get diagrams and part numbers? For BMW I used "realoem" with great success.
5. Any tips or warnings I should consider when removing the plastic trim panel at the rear most portion of the trunk opening?

Thanks in advance for your comments!

[S4Per]

Sound will improve by doing sound dampening, yes. Overkill? Not sure you'll get a definitive answer there. I have no doubt I benefited from it, and I did it from bare metal throughout the entire car: butyl/foam/mass loaded vinyl.
For questions 2-4: yes, yes, and I think you can get them elsewhere...but they're pretty cheap. Check audiusaparts.com for any/all parts, they seem to be the cheapest these days. I didn't have mine break each time I took it off, but they did at least once.
For 5: give it a strong pull upwards...it'll release. Also - I have a bad habit of bending the clips, but dealer should have them if you need them. And finally - some of my clips stuck in the body when pulling off panels; they're a pain in the ass to get out. There's a special tool for it, but it's also lacking in getting them out easily and consistently.

I highly recommend you go here and pay $35 to get access to all repair manuals for a day. You can download them all in pdf format. I did that for my S6 and it's invaluable in terms of understanding how to remove/re-install all component of the car....and much more.

Cheers,
Per

[Audibot]

https://www.audionlineparts.com/ is online, similar to GAP, but I find the prices are stupid low. I just bought my C7 and it won't pass MD inspection because a small chip in the windshield that wasn't fixed to their liking (no I can't get it fixed again--no one will touch it). MSRP on the windshield is $1130 and that place has it up for <$800. (and no I'm not paying for any of it)

getaudiparts.com is pretty good too.

[OlyS6]

Concur that getting a 1 day subscription to Audi Erwin and downloading all the service manuals is a fantastic deal, and invaluable for any and all kinds of DIY projects/service.

I also second the advice on audiusaparts.com Better prices than most, free shipping on orders >$45, and their phone advice is excellent if you have questions.

You can easily pull out the rear side panels simply by folding down the rear seats, removing the plastic pins up top, and removing the chrome cargo handles with a torx bit, and pulling.

The seat bolsters can simply be pulled on a bit to then pull the panel liner out. Nothing will tear or break- I've done it about a dozen different times now.

Although I've contemplated sound deadening material, I've never pulled the trigger on that. I don't have any rattles or weird vibrations, unless I have the volume turned up higher than 25. I have everything dialed in to sound best at a volume between 18-22. I may add sound deadener in the future, and would be interested to know what you wind up using.

[S4Per]

One of the best and cheapest sound upgrades you can do in a car is simply put deadener and MLV in your doors, and don't even change out speakers. That's where you get to understand how big a difference it can make.
I, and many, used the Sound Deadener Showdown (SDS) products. CLD, CCF, MLV. They each perform a different purpose.

[OlyS6]

One of the best and cheapest sound upgrades you can do in a car is simply put deadener and MLV in your doors, and don't even change out speakers. That's where you get to understand how big a difference it can make.
I, and many, used the Sound Deadener Showdown (SDS) products. CLD, CCF, MLV. They each perform a different purpose.

I'll check them out- not excited to remove all the door panels again, (took me forever to figure out how to properly get them back on) but sounds like it may be worth it.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Lots of great comments so far. Thanks guys!

As of now, my plan is to do Dynamat Extreme on 50% or more of the "exterior envelope" beginning at the "D Pillar" toward the back of the car. I'll also do Dynamat on the speaker deck/parcel shelf; and, I'm planning Luxury Liner Pro (CCF / Vinyl combination) on trunk floor and as much of the exterior envelope I can reasonably access. This should quiet the rear - on an already reasonably quiet car - and make the trunk area more suitable for a 10" sub, whether free air or boxed..

I'll get the manual mentioned above as well as extra clips! I found with my last car certain hardware items need to be on-hand if you plan to work on the car over the longer term. Seems having a few of the interior clips/mounting hardware pieces in my tool box will be invaluable over the longer term.

[elptxjc]

Concur that getting a 1 day subscription to Audi Erwin and downloading all the service manuals is a fantastic deal.

Hey Oly, 2 questions. First, can you still access the downloaded files after the subscription expired? And did you get them downloaded as a .pdf, or an internet link? If you can get them downloaded as a .pdf file and you never need to buy another subscription again, I'd definitely do it. Is there any trick to get it done? I'm not stupid, but definitely not very computer savvy nowadays. He he.

The second question, or more than your input, is I'd like to remove the center seatbelt and seat buckle, since I'll never use it (plus there's no freaking space in the middle, so don't know why the hell Audi left it on the S cars). But it's too much trouble, I'll leave it alone. Every time somebody sits, they can't buckle up because they confuse the center buckle. And on the other side, the belt bothers people on the back. Thanks man.

[S4Per]

Hey Oly, 2 questions. First, can you still access the downloaded files after the subscription expired? And did you get them downloaded as a .pdf, or an internet link? If you can get them downloaded as a .pdf file and you never need to buy another subscription again, I'd definitely do it. Is there any trick to get it done? I'm not stupid, but definitely not very computer savvy nowadays. He he.

You get access to online pdf's which you can download during those 24 hours. You will have those for life, and don't ever need the subscription again. No trick, that's it :)

[elptxjc]

You get access to online pdf's which you can download during those 24 hours. You will have those for life, and don't ever need the subscription again.

Sounds like a great deal indeed. Do you happen to have a link, please? I'd like to get it before Audi shuts that feature down. Hey, how many files total? Hopefully one for the service manual, and a separate one for the wiring one, but want to know either way so I don't miss any. Thanks.

[S4Per]

Sounds like a great deal indeed. Do you happen to have a link, please? I'd like to get it before Audi shuts that feature down. Hey, how many files total? Hopefully one for the service manual, and a separate one for the wiring one, but want to know either way so I don't miss any. Thanks.

Erwin.audiusa.com. I think I have around 24 files total. You don't have to hunt for them, it'll be obvious.


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[OlyS6]

Yep, what Per said- I've found the wiring diagrams super useful, as well as the maintenance .pdf, which was awesome for changing out the spark plugs. There are directions for pretty much EVERYTHING, including changing out the turbos and lots of other helpful areas.

I've never attempted removing the rear seats or middle rear seat belt, so I'm afraid I'm not much help there.

I can say that either using the 'find' function or the bookmark tab on the left of the .pdf files from erwin.audi is super useful. I wouldn't have had anywhere near the guts to do any of my mods on my own without these manuals.

Good luck!

[elptxjc]

Thanks guys, but can't even find where the hell to subscribe from the main page. Ha ha. Looked at all the menus and sub-menus and nothing. Oh well. Need to call Audi anyway to see how to log out of their stupid app since I can't find it anywhere, and will ask them about that. Thanks anyway.

[OlyS6]

Thanks guys, but can't even find where the hell to subscribe from the main page. Ha ha. Looked at all the menus and sub-menus and nothing. Oh well. Need to call Audi anyway to see how to log out of their stupid app since I can't find it anywhere, and will ask them about that. Thanks anyway.

You got this- go to the 'my erwin' button on the top right of the page, then registration to create a username and password. Then under that same 'my erwin' button, go to 'subscriptions' ; a drop down menu will then appear on a new page- select the 1 day subscription for $35, pay for it, and then go to town with the downloads- remember, you only have 24hrs, but you can download any and all files that you want as .pdf files, and they're yours to keep.

[digdah]

To chime in my install has very little rattle apart from a VERY annoying resonance on the roof with some frequencies. I have to figure out how to remove the headliner and add some deadener up there. i already have dynamat in the trunk which is doing a very good job as is and I don't really play my music loud. I wonder if I can get rid of the resonance by repositioning the sub in my trunk.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

WOW -- you guys were right about erWin. I registered for a user name and password; then I logged in. I purchase the (1) day package for $35. I have downloaded some general Audi information as well as manuals, etc.. that apply to 2018 A6, including specific for trans, sport differential, body (interior and exterior), maintenance, wiring.. and on and on.

Thousands of pages of detail, direct from the manufacturer. I wish I had this level of detail for my old 335XI; I could have saved a ton of time and learned much more efficiently.

Thanks for the heads-up!

Now, I may as well pull details for my wife's Q - despite that I'm not supposed to be taking that one apart...

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Concur that getting a 1 day subscription to Audi Erwin and downloading all the service manuals is a fantastic deal, and invaluable for any and all kinds of DIY projects/service.

I also second the advice on audiusaparts.com Better prices than most, free shipping on orders >$45, and their phone advice is excellent if you have questions.

You can easily pull out the rear side panels simply by folding down the rear seats, removing the plastic pins up top, and removing the chrome cargo handles with a torx bit, and pulling.

The seat bolsters can simply be pulled on a bit to then pull the panel liner out. Nothing will tear or break- I've done it about a dozen different times now.

Although I've contemplated sound deadening material, I've never pulled the trigger on that. I don't have any rattles or weird vibrations, unless I have the volume turned up higher than 25. I have everything dialed in to sound best at a volume between 18-22. I may add sound deadener in the future, and would be interested to know what you wind up using.

I've ordered up a 20 Sq.ft. package of Dynamat Extreme, roller and a roll of tracing paper. I figure I should be able to cover the rear speaker deck/parcel shelf at nearly 100% as well as a good bit of the rear quarters and trunk floor, roughly following the "25% rule."

Waiting for Jesse to have the time to assemble my "mounting plate." He's recommended we try a thin mount 10" JL sub (TW3, I believe). If that works "free air", great. If not, we'll do a flat bottomed box because the necessary mounting depth is only 3.75-4.0". This should take care of resonance in the trunk area. When doing the install, I may also use foam and/or butyl rope to further minimize resonance and outright rattles.

Then, I'll move on to a CCF/MLV combination, likely on trunk floor, quarters, and doors...