Ready to remove and install another O1E in my 2002 S6

[wpod]

The reason for the switch is that I lost 2nd gear in the original O1E and reverse is very hard to access as well. This time however, I have the luxury of using a friend's lift that he has located in his "at home" garage. The thing that surprised me the most was that I seem to have a more difficult time seeing the upper bolts that hold the O1E to the 4.2 . I have Milltek Catless down pipes installed and it looks like I have enough clearance to drop the transmission without removing the pipes, comments, suggestions? I cant remember if I had to remove the down pipes the last time that I did this , but I think I'll give it a try. On the back half of the Milltek Catless exhaust, I had last used a pair of "platinum induced" mini-adapters , that screwed into the bungs and the O2 sensors screwed into them, fooling the O2 sensor into thinking it was a "real cat". I'd like to renew these units while I've got things apart, but my 63 year old brain can't remember who the supplier was. Anyone? I also just read something about adding a resistor in parallel with the O2 sensor to accomplish the same thing. Is this a better idea or is there something even newer out there that I haven't heard of yet? While I'm at it, I finally got the "RS6 knuckles" needed to complete the RS6 rear brake and caliper upgrade. This has been a long time coming as I originally did the fronts about 5 years ago. Wish me luck, Thank You, Paul, Providence, RI

[rollerton]

Paul!

It is what it is. There are no super awesome shortcuts, but honestly I bet it's one of the easiest trans jobs on any Audi. You DO need to remove the downpipes. No way you're getting around those. And if you did somehow, it's hard to imagine you'd come out ahead time/ effort-wise.
So, It's Exhaust, driveshaft (could stay in place, but once you're under there it's 10 minutes to remove...so meh?), axles, downpipes, starter (you could leave in place?), trans mounts, right front headlight and torque mount, and whatever I'm forgetting. Linkage can stay in the car, it's super easy to do on a 4.2/01E. But you CAN in fact, lower the trans down through the subframe. It'll fit, so that's sort of nice if you have a good articulating/ trans jack of some kind. The downside of leaving the subframe up there is that it's more difficulter to tilt the back of the engine down for good trans-to-engine angle. No real good advice on that, I think you still have to basically unbolt the engine and lift it to tilt the rear end down to mate the two up again, the angle has to be decently straight or it's a super bitch. The top bellhousing bolts I always get to from the top. So, go ahead and pull the stuff off the top, and throttle body boot first when you're fiddling with the upper 02 sensors, and pull the top bellhousing bolts. A couple of the downpipe flange nuts are easier from above too.
As for the 02 sensor stuff...I dunno about that stuff generally.

[GreggPDX]

These are what I used when I did my piggies:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTA6OXG

They have been working since last summer.

[wpod]

what is the torque mount? Is it that rubber snub thingy that fits inside of the oval hole? Thanks for the other reminders, I think the reason that I'm having such a hard time is that I don't have a light source ABOVE the engine as I would have if working on my back in the driveway. Very good to know that the top bolts should be loosened from above.
Greg- thanks so much for that tip!, I just ordered a pair! I especially like the 90 degree offset. Thanks a million guys, you are the BEST!

[02 A6 2.7T]

what is the torque mount? Is it that rubber snub thingy that fits inside of the oval hole?

above the alternator pulley ... #8 here:
https://www.audiusaparts.com/auto-pa...-mounting-scat

[wpod]

Hello again, a few delays here and there due to my poor vision and bad lighting ,, I just got two "new"Axles from Raxles today so the O1E might get installed today. I didn't have to take out my Milltek Catless downpipes for the extraction, so I'm hoping I don't have to remove the pipes for the "insertion"The thing that I can't remember is when do you put the shifter and linkage back in. Is it possible to mount the shifter "box" to the car and secure the linkage to the "underbody" (duct tape?)of the car to allow clearance for the gearbox and then bolt it together once the mating process is complete? Any other tips for an easier installation? Thanks in afdvance for all of your help. Paul, Providence.