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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Question Couple questions about the 3.0 liter and head removal

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    My son's 2002 3.0 liter has coolant in cylinder 1. Using the camshaft locking tool, how are you supposed to take the head bolts out that are situated underneath it? The cam tool blocks it. Do you momentarily take the camshaft locking tool out to remove the bolts and just hope the cams don't move?

    Second, once that is done, and you have the head/cams and locking tool all together and out, how do you check the head for warpage if the valves are pushed down past the edge of the head?

    I want to take the head in to get it pressure tested and tanked to get it all cleaned up, but how do they do that with the cam locking tool still in place so the cams don't move? Do I remove them from the head first? Sorry, new to this, I normally only work on older pushrod engines that don't have this problem.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul85 View Post
    My son's 2002 3.0 liter has coolant in cylinder 1. Using the camshaft locking tool, how are you supposed to take the head bolts out that are situated underneath it? The cam tool blocks it. Do you momentarily take the camshaft locking tool out to remove the bolts and just hope the cams don't move?

    Second, once that is done, and you have the head/cams and locking tool all together and out, how do you check the head for warpage if the valves are pushed down past the edge of the head?

    I want to take the head in to get it pressure tested and tanked to get it all cleaned up, but how do they do that with the cam locking tool still in place so the cams don't move? Do I remove them from the head first? Sorry, new to this, I normally only work on older pushrod engines that don't have this problem.
    I'm pretty sure since your disassembling everything, you can omit the tools when removing the head. Once you get the timing belt off you can gently remove the cam tools so that the cams slowly rotate down. Without turning the crank you won't hurt anything. And can you aeriously not get the bolts with the tools on? Its been a whole since ive been in there, but that seems a little off. 19dog (I think that's his user name) did his headgaskets recently. He can help with the steps.

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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings 19jdog's Avatar
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    When I removed the heads because of overheating, I removed everything and didn't care about alignment of the motor until it was time to reassemble. Make sure you get those heads skimmed!! Good luck
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  4. #4
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Thanks, I'm taking the head to a local machine shop to pressure test and plane it flat. I will figure out how to retime that head afterwards I guess.

  5. #5
    Active Member Two Rings
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    I took the head off. I totally need to get a Bentley manual for this car. I need to take the locking tool off and take the cams out so that I can take it to the NAPA machine shop in Topeka and have them pressure test it and mill it for me.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings blitz2190's Avatar
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    helpful hint when you go install the heads, get the crank lined up to the tdc mark, then turn it conterclockwise just a bit (like 1/16 of a turn) this way it will not come into contact with the valves, then you can install yourheads and cam lock tools, slowly move the crank back while checking for resistance (to make sure there is no contact with valves).
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  7. #7
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Thanks for the tip.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    On this topic, how much can be shaved off the heads to increase the compression? have been thinking about this for a few and haven't been able to find much.

    E

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings 19jdog's Avatar
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    Attached Images
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    [QUOTE=19jdog;13024618][QUOTE=[/QUOTE]

    Nice.


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  11. #11
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Got it all apart and am dropping it off today at the shop. I left the valves in but that's SOP, so, crossing my fingers there's no crack anywhere and its just a bit warped.



    Looks like a small crack or hairline something between cylinders 1 and 2 possibly and yes, this engine was sludged up. My son drove it about 3 miles to school and back and it never got hot. I bought a bottle of liqui moly engine sludge remover and will put that in when I get this beast back together and then perform an oil change. I'm also changing out the blown transmission mounts and the oil pan sensor also is faulty.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings imnuts's Avatar
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    I would run Shell Rotella oil on shorter intervals (5k miles), getting it up to temp several times for an extended period between each oil change to help clear that varnish out.

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  13. #13
    Active Member Two Rings
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    We do run Rotella in it now. After I get this all done and verify the car is working as intended, our goal is to sell it. He already has another vehicle and this is the 5th car we have for 3.5 drivers (another son who is learning to drive).

    It's been a pretty reliable car for him all things considered.

  14. #14
    Active Member Two Rings
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    head pressure tested fine, but was warped.. So, they are going to fix it all up, will run me about $150 or so.

    Whew!

  15. #15
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul85 View Post
    head pressure tested fine, but was warped.. So, they are going to fix it all up, will run me about $150 or so.

    Whew!
    Now is a perfect time to get that head shaved and increase that CR while youíre in there.


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  16. #16
    Active Member Two Rings
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    no, im selling this thing and dont care about putting any more money into it then i need to.. they are taking 6 thousands off

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings imnuts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ephry73 View Post
    Now is a perfect time to get that head shaved and increase that CR while youíre in there.
    I don't that you can take enough off the heads to appreciably increase the compression and keep them in factory spec. Ignoring the factory spec, you probably still can't take enough off to gain much and still have a reliable engine.

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  18. #18
    Senior Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by imnuts View Post
    I don't that you can take enough off the heads to appreciably increase the compression and keep them in factory spec. Ignoring the factory spec, you probably still can't take enough off to gain much and still have a reliable engine.

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    Dully noted


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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings 19jdog's Avatar
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    manual or automatic ??? Just wondering how you removed the downpipes if its a auto..
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  20. #20
    Active Member Two Rings
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    unbolted the sleeve behind he downpipe, removed the 3 13 mm bolts holding the downpipe to the exhaust manifold, slid the downpipe back a bit, and pulled the exhaust manifold out with the head. I can take pics if this isn't clear.

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  21. #21
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Dropped off the head Friday at noon, they were done Friday at 6 pm. I picked it up today and it looks all nice and clean and shiny. It's going to be in the 40's all week and I only have time after work in an unheated garage to start putting everything back together so this may sit another week. We'll see. Total cost for the machine work was $168.11 for cleaning, pressure testing, and planing it.

  22. #22
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Got it all back together, CIL is off, engine purrs like a kitten, and my son and I drove it and it ran like a dream. Got all the little parts fixed up on it and sold it locally for asking price. Thanks all for the advice on this forum. It's a great resource to have.

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul85 View Post
    Got it all back together, CIL is off, engine purrs like a kitten, and my son and I drove it and it ran like a dream. Got all the little parts fixed up on it and sold it locally for asking price. Thanks all for the advice on this forum. It's a great resource to have.
    Did you end up taking any pictures along the way? Us 3.0 guys are always looking for some extra resources.
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  24. #24
    Senior Member Three Rings pablolizarraga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJorge3442 View Post
    Did you end up taking any pictures along the way? Us 3.0 guys are always looking for some extra resources.
    X2!

    Iím suspecting a head gasket leak and may need to do same job this summer.


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  25. #25
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Hydraulic lifters can put huge load on camshafts if the caps aren't taken off in correct order and snap them. If you made it past this without fucking up you're probably golden.

  26. #26
    Active Member Two Rings
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    I did. IMGUR is blocked at work so I'll post some here in a day or so with some explanations. I had a problem at first where the CIL came on immediately and sounded like crap. Scanned the car and 4-5-6 cylinders were throwing errors. Turns out I had forgotten to plug the injector harness into the driver's side.. Easy fix!

    After that, I reset the CIL and it has stayed off.

  27. #27
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Also have a camshaft locking tool set with the parts needed to do this job for sale cheap.

  28. #28
    Senior Member Three Rings pablolizarraga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul85 View Post
    I did. IMGUR is blocked at work so I'll post some here in a day or so with some explanations.
    You can try posting pics via Audizine app as well.



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