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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings jj94tt's Avatar
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    Tie rod end install ambiguity in Bentley...

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    I hate ambiguity.

    Bentley's instructions for tie rod end installation say to "install tie rod shaft into steering knuckle clamp until seated" by hand so the boot is not damaged. But then it does not say what order of install OR the torque specs for the vertical bolt and pinch bolt. If you seat by hand, the shaft goes in until there is about 1/8" of shaft showing between the knuckle and the washer machined onto the base of the shaft. If you install the pinch bolt now, that space remains (which looks to be how it was originally and in many photos that I can find online). If you install the vertical bolt first, it pulls the shaft all the way up into the knuckle... to the point where the indent on the shaft will probably contact the pinch bolt... perhaps it is meant to do this?

    Maybe I am over thinking this. Should the tie rod ball joint shaft pull all the way into the knuckle clamp or not?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    That's because there's adjustment in the tie rod end. You can pull it up and down for adjustment. The pinch bolt should have a torque spec IIRC.

    Most alignment techs don't bother with that adjustment though. Search for Old guys guide for DIY alignment on here and you'll see what I mean.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings jj94tt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    That's because there's adjustment in the tie rod end. You can pull it up and down for adjustment. The pinch bolt should have a torque spec IIRC.

    Most alignment techs don't bother with that adjustment though. Search for Old guys guide for DIY alignment on here and you'll see what I mean.
    Huh... no kidding. Well that makes sense. I'll be reading on about this mystery alignment spec.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings walky_talky20's Avatar
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    The rule of thumb would be to "put it back where it was", or "match the other side", based on how you might feel about the previous assembly situation. "This car was dialed" = maybe measure and put it back where it was. "This car was jacked up" = probably just match them side to side. Obviously the ideal would be to actually do the proper laden/unladen toe adjustment on the alignment rack - but good luck getting anyone to do it. Ain't nobody got time fo' dat.

    Generally speaking the factory install will have a small gap (a few mm), and if the car is significantly lowered you will want the gap to be basically as large as possible (max out the adjustment: around 8 or 9mm as I recall).
    ^Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
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    Aug 13 2015
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    That small bolt only needs about 7Nm of torque, so basically, almost no torque. So, it shouldn't be pulling the shaft up. You should tighten the pibch bolt to spec first at the position it was before or max distance if you're lowered as mentioned above.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.
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