I installed this because I’ve been blending 2.5 gallons of e85 with 91 octane e10 to run a 93 octane file (targeting the e21-22 range). I did that as an experiment for a bit to see if it’d be too much of a pain to keep the e85 on hand for fuel ups, but it hasn’t been bad. So I pulled the trigger on the Zeitronix ECA kit for more precise monitoring.
Credit where credit is due: while I didn't find a ton of specific DIYs for this across other model forums, (1) I found a s4 thread in which hofahome described his methodology for pulling the fuel pump fuse, (2) I referenced s4Per’s laser jammer write up to provide guidance/confirmation when pulling stuff out to get through the firewall, (3) I used olys6’s r8 steering wheel controls thread for referencing how to pull the lower dash trim and ashtray and (4) to Mickey for the original idea and Aaron for the suggested fuel line location. Also, the factory manual is an invaluable tool. Someone provided a download link to this a long time ago--I can't recall who it was, but I'm indebted to that person because I use the manual a lot.
Disclaimer: I am far from an expert, so I’m sure there’s a better way to do some of this. Hopefully more knowledgeable people chime in to assist anyone else considering this project.
Parts required:
-I used the Zeitronix FF sensor and ECA which is hard-wired, but there are also Bluetooth options available which would eliminate the wiring step
-5/16” fuel injection hose (I don’t think you technically need fuel injection hose because we’re on the low pressure side, but as some of the finest folks in our country say - overkill is underrated)
-3/8” steel to 5/16” nylon quick disconnects (QD). I used the type with a push button given the Zeitronix FF sensor does not have room for a standard QD tool.
-Oetiker / ear clamps
-Add-a-fuse, wire connectors, etc.
-Optional parts
oHigh temp felt gasket to keep the FF sensor from rubbing against the heat shield in the engine bay.
oWire cloth as I didn’t want stuff rattling around under the dash. See above comment about overkill.
oHeat shield for the fuel line. Probably not necessary, but given the stock fuel line gets routed a little closer to the exhaust, I figured this couldn’t hurt.
Tools required:
-Hose clamp pliers. There is no way you are getting the stock fuel line clamp undone with a pair of regular pliers. Hose removal hooks really help too.
-Typical torx and 10mm bits, plastic pry tools
-Fish tape (makes routing through the firewall a lot easier than using a coat hanger)
Steps:
1.Decide if you want (a) to pull your fuel pump fuse and run the engine until it dies, or (b) deal with extra pressure and potential for a ‘golden shower’. I elected to go with option (a), but the sight/sound of my engine sputtering and running out of fuel was painful enough that I might do option (b) if I had to go at this again. After you do (a) or (b) above, open the gas cap, set the parking brake and put the car in neutral (for later), and disconnect the battery. (reference hofahome FF sensor post if needed)
2.Disconnect the clamshell connector on the passenger side fuel line coming up from the tank. Just push together and then it pulls off. Then, use your hose clamp pliers to cinch the stock hose clamp and somehow pry the hose off of the metal clamshell connector. Wrap everything in rags and have a cup underneath to catch the gas if you can. Even letting the engine run out of gas I still had a bit of fuel spray out under pressure, so imagine there’d be a good bit if you go with option (b).
3.Put a QD on the stock fuel line you just removed with an ear clamp. Cut a 2-3” section of your new fuel line and connect it to the stock clamshell clamp on one side and the other QD on the other side. Connect your QDs to the FF sensor, and the stock clamshell connector back to the stock fuel line.
4.Take off your rain shield and run the wires under the strut tower brace over to the driver’s side. Access the grommet to get through the firewall into the engine bay by removing the windshield washer reservoir (it will dump onto the floor), then unplugging and removing the ECU, then removing the 5 torx screws holding the black plastic water cover just below it. See picture below for the different drivers I used to get at the various screws. Next, undo the 10mm nut to give you flexibility moving the gray electrical housing box around. (this is a good time to reference s4per’s laser jammer website)
5.Next, inside the car: remove the driver’s side fuse box cover, the three 10mm bolts holding the lower dash panel on, and remove it. You have to pull hard from the top to pivot it down, then it should slide out freely. (good time to reference olys6’s steering wheel controls thread)
6.From inside the car, you can cut a hole in the grommet leading through the firewall (it has an existing wire loom coming through) using a kitchen knife, exacto, etc. Poke your fish tape through and finagle it out from the other side. Tape your wire conduit to the fish tape and pull it through. Once complete, you can put everything back together in the engine bay. Beer time, because you’re most of the way done with the install at that point.
7.Pull up the shift boot, then muster the courage to pry off the console trim piece with the start/stop button, MMI dial, etc. You don’t need to remove any buttons, but you do need to pull hard. There are 4 push-in clips located at each of the corners. Once that is popped up, you’ll be able to remove the two torx screws holding the ashtray in place. Then pry the HVAC controls off and you’ll be able to maneuver the ashtray out. Drill a hole in the top driver’s side corner of the ashtray and you can route the ECA display cable through it and into the driver’s side footwell area. Secure the display with velcro and put all of this stuff back together.
8.Connect the power and ground cables. I used an ‘add-a-fuse’ butt-spliced to the pinned power wire that comes with the kit. The fuse slot I’m using in the picture is always on, so I subsequently moved it to a slot that is only powered when the car is on. There is a ground under the lower dash trim you can use. Plug the FF sensor harness you routed from the engine bay, the power harness and the ECA display cable to the ECA. Velcro the ECA box under the footwell. Put the dash trim back on and you’re all set.
9.Cross your fingers, drink a beer, and plug your battery back in hoping everything works and nothing blows up (at least that’s what I did, in that order). Check for fuel leaks where you added the FF sensor.
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Originally Posted by OlyS6
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