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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings TwoSnelz's Avatar
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    What Would You Buy To Refresh Suspension

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    I am looking to do a full suspension refresh this summer. Looking for input on things to pick up. Car is approaching 200k so I'm sure most bushings need attending to. I am trying to improve ride quality and handling without sacrificing too much on comfort.

    Currently looking at...

    18" wheels(leaning towards VMR V708)
    034 Density Line Front Control Arm kit
    Tie Rod Ends
    Front Upper Strut Mounts
    Rear Upper Spring Damper
    ST X Performance Coilovers
    Rear Control Arm Bushing kit(ECS is backordered, suggestions for a daily driver?)
    Rear Sway Bar Metal Endlinks
    New Wheel bearings (all 4 corners)

    Should I bother with sway bar bushings?

    What other things can I buy to refresh the car's ride?

    Any other input? I'll be buying new hardware for all of this.

    Thanks

    Sent from my XT1254 using Audizine mobile app
    2001.5 Cactus Green S4 - Rebuilt Motor, Frankenturbo F21s/Inlets, Gates Timing Belt, 034 Spider Hose/Rear Subframe Reinforcement/Rear Swaybar/Track Density Motor Mounts, XSPower Y-Pipe, 85mm MAF Housing, Stratosphere DVs, SSA Turboback Exhaust, JHM FMIC, Samco TBB, 550cc EV14 Injectors, Motoza 93 Tune, ST Coilovers, Rebuilt 01E, Southbend Single Mass Steel Flywheel, USP Slave Cylinder w/ Steel Braided Line, Clutchmaster FX400 6Puck Clutch

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings MacFady's Avatar
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    Given the rest of your list why not front sway bar bushings and endlinks, they're cheap and easy to do.

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings TwoSnelz's Avatar
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    2001.5 Audi S4, 1998 BMW 323is
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    The control arm kit I selected comes with front sway bar links. I'd be buying the rears separately and didn't know how much of an impact they would really have on normal driving feel.

    Price is adding up, figured I could do them down the road since they are so easy to access. Only reason really.

    Do you have any other input on other bushings/components I could replace? I am also looking at rear differential bushings.
    2001.5 Cactus Green S4 - Rebuilt Motor, Frankenturbo F21s/Inlets, Gates Timing Belt, 034 Spider Hose/Rear Subframe Reinforcement/Rear Swaybar/Track Density Motor Mounts, XSPower Y-Pipe, 85mm MAF Housing, Stratosphere DVs, SSA Turboback Exhaust, JHM FMIC, Samco TBB, 550cc EV14 Injectors, Motoza 93 Tune, ST Coilovers, Rebuilt 01E, Southbend Single Mass Steel Flywheel, USP Slave Cylinder w/ Steel Braided Line, Clutchmaster FX400 6Puck Clutch

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    I'd recommend moog/stern front UCAs.

    I'd say you might be overdoing it on some of those links, without looking at your specific car. It's possible you need all that, but without inspecting that might be overkill.

    rear end links for instance, there are metal ones and plastic ones that came with our cars. Absent needing different lengths or visible fatigue, you're probably okay. Like with all the rubber bushings you've listed, unless they original and/or in bad shape, I wouldn't be fixing what isn't broken. All of those bushings, and more including driveline/subframe bushings are on the table, but a lot the time this stuff can survive a fairly long while. I just inspected my miata (1990), and some of the bushings are 30 years old in some of these spots, and they're perfectly fine. My last refresh since i did control arms fairly recently and stay on wheel bearings, was just replacing eccentric bolts and front struts with some $30 replacements. Shock mounts, driveline mounts, sway bar mounts... all in working order.

    Like tie rods... I mean lord knows I went through like 5 of em before I put in the metal a4 rods in there, but been fine for a very long time since then.

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings TwoSnelz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by james 408 View Post
    I'd recommend moog/stern front UCAs.

    I'd say you might be overdoing it on some of those links, without looking at your specific car. It's possible you need all that, but without inspecting that might be overkill.

    rear end links for instance, there are metal ones and plastic ones that came with our cars. Absent needing different lengths or visible fatigue, you're probably okay. Like with all the rubber bushings you've listed, unless they original and/or in bad shape, I wouldn't be fixing what isn't broken. All of those bushings, and more including driveline/subframe bushings are on the table, but a lot the time this stuff can survive a fairly long while. I just inspected my miata (1990), and some of the bushings are 30 years old in some of these spots, and they're perfectly fine. My last refresh since i did control arms fairly recently and stay on wheel bearings, was just replacing eccentric bolts and front struts with some $30 replacements. Shock mounts, driveline mounts, sway bar mounts... all in working order.

    Like tie rods... I mean lord knows I went through like 5 of em before I put in the metal a4 rods in there, but been fine for a very long time since then.
    I am getting some weird tire wear which is where this all started. After my last set (Cooper RS3-A) wore VERY unevenly I made a list of everything wrong with the suspension and here we are. The alignment was done to "factory specs" according to the PO but I have no documentation on this. The car came with Pirelli PZeros that were very evenly worn and at about 1/2 life. Only after this most recent set(the Coopers) did I start to suspect I had problems. My winter set (Dunlop SP Wintersport) seems to be wearing evenly, so maybe it was just the tires?

    Why Moog/Stern? Adjustability? Fitment? Longevity?

    My rear end links are plastic, whoever was last in there before I bought the car cross threaded the bolt and now on the passenger side it's not tight at all. I grabbed a set of metal links with new hardware already.

    I'd most likely only be replacing outer tie rods to match with the new control arms.

    The previous two owners told me they haven't changed the front control arms and I am getting some squeaking from the front end on low speed turns like backing out of parking spots. Not sure if this is a control arm or front shock.

    The ST coils I have on it now also have bad perchs from someone adjusting without a wrench and just obliterating the plastic. The back passenger side is sagging because I can't adjust it anymore to match the rest of the car. The car was too low when I bought it for Northeast PA.

    Grabbing wheel bearings because I have no idea when they were changed last and I get a weird oscillating hum at highway speeds. This hum has persisted through two tire sets.

    But you are right, I'm kind of throwing money at it without knowing if the parts really are bad. Besides those I listed above, everything else is a kind of "It's old lets replace it!" story. I'll have the bushings inspected this Spring and see what a professional says, for I may be able to turn a wrench I don't really know how to diagnose these things.

    Thank you for your input
    2001.5 Cactus Green S4 - Rebuilt Motor, Frankenturbo F21s/Inlets, Gates Timing Belt, 034 Spider Hose/Rear Subframe Reinforcement/Rear Swaybar/Track Density Motor Mounts, XSPower Y-Pipe, 85mm MAF Housing, Stratosphere DVs, SSA Turboback Exhaust, JHM FMIC, Samco TBB, 550cc EV14 Injectors, Motoza 93 Tune, ST Coilovers, Rebuilt 01E, Southbend Single Mass Steel Flywheel, USP Slave Cylinder w/ Steel Braided Line, Clutchmaster FX400 6Puck Clutch

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    makes sense.

    I'd just inspect and shake things, replace what looks visually worn. From there, re-evaluate symptoms. Control arms and wheel bearings make sense as these are routine maintenence, but sometimes these things last 5k, sometimes they last 60k.

    Some of the things to consider when analyzing symptoms: Isolate the hum to a corner? is it a slow vibration or fast vibration (tires/bearing vs driveline)? Is there play/deflection in the steering direction pointing to tie rods/wheel bearings? is it in the vertical direction pointing to wheel bearings/control arms? When you shake it can you see play in other joints? Try visual inspection while shaking the crap out of it on a lift and using prybars.

    define 'wearing unevenly' -- picture worth 1000 words. And you should be setting up and tweaking alignment regularly, not relying on prior owners or 'in spec'. 90% of the cars I see have all sorts of modifications on it, but they've never even aligned the car. Makes me cry as this is almost always the biggest performance inhibitor and completely offsets the thousands they've spent on new crap they've been sold by tuners.

    moog/stern cause the 034 option was made by 034 using aurora rod ends and they've got a history of lying about failure rates. there's a thread on this.

    bottom line: there's tradeoffs here, and just replacing everything might be best if it's really that neglected, but spending a grand or two replacing parts when really only 1 or 2 wheel bearings are the problem and some worn coilovers would suck. Especially if you end up needing to spend money on other stuff in the near future. It's not a simple equation that I can answer without spending some time under your car.

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings shepa401's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoSnelz View Post
    I am getting some weird tire wear which is where this all started. After my last set (Cooper RS3-A) wore VERY unevenly I made a list of everything wrong with the suspension and here we are. The alignment was done to "factory specs" according to the PO but I have no documentation on this. The car came with Pirelli PZeros that were very evenly worn and at about 1/2 life. Only after this most recent set(the Coopers) did I start to suspect I had problems. My winter set (Dunlop SP Wintersport) seems to be wearing evenly, so maybe it was just the tires?

    Why Moog/Stern? Adjustability? Fitment? Longevity?

    My rear end links are plastic, whoever was last in there before I bought the car cross threaded the bolt and now on the passenger side it's not tight at all. I grabbed a set of metal links with new hardware already.

    I'd most likely only be replacing outer tie rods to match with the new control arms.

    The previous two owners told me they haven't changed the front control arms and I am getting some squeaking from the front end on low speed turns like backing out of parking spots. Not sure if this is a control arm or front shock.

    The ST coils I have on it now also have bad perchs from someone adjusting without a wrench and just obliterating the plastic. The back passenger side is sagging because I can't adjust it anymore to match the rest of the car. The car was too low when I bought it for Northeast PA.

    Grabbing wheel bearings because I have no idea when they were changed last and I get a weird oscillating hum at highway speeds. This hum has persisted through two tire sets.

    But you are right, I'm kind of throwing money at it without knowing if the parts really are bad. Besides those I listed above, everything else is a kind of "It's old lets replace it!" story. I'll have the bushings inspected this Spring and see what a professional says, for I may be able to turn a wrench I don't really know how to diagnose these things.

    Thank you for your input
    I bought a full set of Meyle rear bushings from blauparts when I did my car but it seems like they do not list them on their website anymore.

    As for the ST spring perches, I had the same issues with mine. After being on for a couple years I busted the plastic on mine and could not get them to turn. I ended up having to cut them off. I contacted KW and was able to get replacement perches for under $30.

  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings TwoSnelz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by james 408 View Post
    makes sense.

    I'd just inspect and shake things, replace what looks visually worn. From there, re-evaluate symptoms. Control arms and wheel bearings make sense as these are routine maintenence, but sometimes these things last 5k, sometimes they last 60k.

    Some of the things to consider when analyzing symptoms: Isolate the hum to a corner? is it a slow vibration or fast vibration (tires/bearing vs driveline)? Is there play/deflection in the steering direction pointing to tie rods/wheel bearings? is it in the vertical direction pointing to wheel bearings/control arms? When you shake it can you see play in other joints? Try visual inspection while shaking the crap out of it on a lift and using prybars.

    define 'wearing unevenly' -- picture worth 1000 words. And you should be setting up and tweaking alignment regularly, not relying on prior owners or 'in spec'. 90% of the cars I see have all sorts of modifications on it, but they've never even aligned the car. Makes me cry as this is almost always the biggest performance inhibitor and completely offsets the thousands they've spent on new crap they've been sold by tuners.

    moog/stern cause the 034 option was made by 034 using aurora rod ends and they've got a history of lying about failure rates. there's a thread on this.

    bottom line: there's tradeoffs here, and just replacing everything might be best if it's really that neglected, but spending a grand or two replacing parts when really only 1 or 2 wheel bearings are the problem and some worn coilovers would suck. Especially if you end up needing to spend money on other stuff in the near future. It's not a simple equation that I can answer without spending some time under your car.
    Thank you for your reply James.

    If I got a picture of the tires would that help determine if it's an alignment or worn components issue? The back tires are wearing on the inside so I figured camber was off however the fronts have rounded shoulders and just uneven wear across the tread patch, kind of hard to describe they just look strange. I was also getting a shudder under braking when I took them off in the fall. I'll see if I can get a video of the hum as well, I'm pretty sure it's coming from Front Passenger side. Makes me think toe may be off as the brakes are good.

    I have spent a good amount already on this car, I plan to keep it for awhile and make it a toy once I pick up another DD. Investing into it doesn't scare me, I don't plan to sell to get my money back but I don't want to flush my money down the toilet! I love this thing haha!
    2001.5 Cactus Green S4 - Rebuilt Motor, Frankenturbo F21s/Inlets, Gates Timing Belt, 034 Spider Hose/Rear Subframe Reinforcement/Rear Swaybar/Track Density Motor Mounts, XSPower Y-Pipe, 85mm MAF Housing, Stratosphere DVs, SSA Turboback Exhaust, JHM FMIC, Samco TBB, 550cc EV14 Injectors, Motoza 93 Tune, ST Coilovers, Rebuilt 01E, Southbend Single Mass Steel Flywheel, USP Slave Cylinder w/ Steel Braided Line, Clutchmaster FX400 6Puck Clutch

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings TwoSnelz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shepa401 View Post
    I bought a full set of Meyle rear bushings from blauparts when I did my car but it seems like they do not list them on their website anymore.

    As for the ST spring perches, I had the same issues with mine. After being on for a couple years I busted the plastic on mine and could not get them to turn. I ended up having to cut them off. I contacted KW and was able to get replacement perches for under $30.
    I'll shoot an email to KW, thanks man! I didn't think this was something replaceable.
    2001.5 Cactus Green S4 - Rebuilt Motor, Frankenturbo F21s/Inlets, Gates Timing Belt, 034 Spider Hose/Rear Subframe Reinforcement/Rear Swaybar/Track Density Motor Mounts, XSPower Y-Pipe, 85mm MAF Housing, Stratosphere DVs, SSA Turboback Exhaust, JHM FMIC, Samco TBB, 550cc EV14 Injectors, Motoza 93 Tune, ST Coilovers, Rebuilt 01E, Southbend Single Mass Steel Flywheel, USP Slave Cylinder w/ Steel Braided Line, Clutchmaster FX400 6Puck Clutch

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoSnelz View Post
    Thank you for your reply James.

    If I got a picture of the tires would that help determine if it's an alignment or worn components issue? The back tires are wearing on the inside so I figured camber was off however the fronts have rounded shoulders and just uneven wear across the tread patch, kind of hard to describe they just look strange. I was also getting a shudder under braking when I took them off in the fall. I'll see if I can get a video of the hum as well, I'm pretty sure it's coming from Front Passenger side. Makes me think toe may be off as the brakes are good.

    I have spent a good amount already on this car, I plan to keep it for awhile and make it a toy once I pick up another DD. Investing into it doesn't scare me, I don't plan to sell to get my money back but I don't want to flush my money down the toilet! I love this thing haha!
    Yeah it might. so yeah outside wear = need more negative camber, or positive camber for inside wear on the rear -- this is the result of lowering the car and not aligning it properly. Wear on the shoulders indicates a problem with inflation pressures being too low if it's even inside and outside, or camber if it's only on one side. Now if you have spotty wear around the circumferance of the tire, then that indicates worn suspension components. Toe wear will exacerbate the aforementioned conditions, but unless there's an actual problem with the tie rods, you typically just align it to correct it. Inspecting the joints can figure out which ones are allowing deflection and causing patchy wear around the circumference -- keeping in mind that past problems with brakes can explain some of the unevenness around the circumference. If the hum is from the front passenger side, i'd inspect the joints, rotate the tires to see if the noise moves, but would anticipate this being a worn wheel bearing that just needs replacement.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    To put the diagnosis process in perspective, I'd taken my Miata to a couple of different shops after i was noticing deflection in the steering direction while driving it -- with my suspiscion it was the front right. I bought a wheel bearing and tie rod in anticipation, but the shops came back with worn control arms and worn strut mounts. I scrapped their diagnosis as garbage, took it to another shop that diagnosed it as the steering rack, so I spent a saturday swapping it out with their help. This had no effect whatsoever (the movement in the rack was generated by #3 below causing the rack to jump). I ended up spending some time under the car in conjunction with my trusted tech's lift and expertise, and we determined that it was 3 things:
    1) the wheel bearing that i'd just replaced was bad already, this fixed a squeeking issue as well as some deflection
    2) the front struts were blown and leaking fluid, this fixed a damping issue
    3) the eccentric bolts on the wishbone suspension were slipping, this fixed massive deflection that was causing the car to drive straight despite the steering wheel being turned 90 degrees.

    #3 was almost the entirety of the issue. And even experienced techs completely missed the problems, and misdiagnosed joints that were in perfect working order.
    Last edited by james 408; 02-20-2018 at 02:22 PM.

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings TwoSnelz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by james 408 View Post
    Yeah it might. so yeah outside wear = need more negative camber, or positive camber for inside wear on the rear -- this is the result of lowering the car and not aligning it properly. Wear on the shoulders indicates a problem with inflation pressures being too low if it's even inside and outside, or camber if it's only on one side. Now if you have spotty wear around the circumferance of the tire, then that indicates worn suspension components. Toe wear will exacerbate the aforementioned conditions, but unless there's an actual problem with the tie rods, you typically just align it to correct it. Inspecting the joints can figure out which ones are allowing deflection and causing patchy wear around the circumference -- keeping in mind that past problems with brakes can explain some of the unevenness around the circumference. If the hum is from the front passenger side, i'd inspect the joints, rotate the tires to see if the noise moves, but would anticipate this being a worn wheel bearing that just needs replacement.
    Maybe I mispoke, it's not so much wear on the shoulders but the outside edge. Here's an album I just uploaded..

    https://imgur.com/a/LefB5

    Notice front passenger side is worn more on the inside than the front driver side. The back tires are completely shot after maybe 4k miles.

    Also, it's hard to see in the pictures but look at the tread on the tires and tell me if it doesn't seem like the middle of the tire is sunk in compared to the inner edges. Like the car riding on the inside edge of the tire warped the tread in the middle more than the outside.

    I'm going to get the car looked at/aligned before I spend any money on parts. I have a feeling the guy I bought it off of never had the car aligned because there's a few other things I was lied to about as well that I've had to fix.

    Last time I tried the only Euro shop near me had a truck being worked on sitting on their alignment rack and told me to come back. Never did because they charged me $90 to tell me the same thing I told them when I brought the car in, mechanic completely clueless about these cars and just bad mouthing Audi owners while talking about how Saab is so much better.
    2001.5 Cactus Green S4 - Rebuilt Motor, Frankenturbo F21s/Inlets, Gates Timing Belt, 034 Spider Hose/Rear Subframe Reinforcement/Rear Swaybar/Track Density Motor Mounts, XSPower Y-Pipe, 85mm MAF Housing, Stratosphere DVs, SSA Turboback Exhaust, JHM FMIC, Samco TBB, 550cc EV14 Injectors, Motoza 93 Tune, ST Coilovers, Rebuilt 01E, Southbend Single Mass Steel Flywheel, USP Slave Cylinder w/ Steel Braided Line, Clutchmaster FX400 6Puck Clutch

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Yeah, more negative camber up front (need adjustable UCAs) -- that it looks uneven between sides leads me to believe your camber is uneven. You can correct the unevenness by shifting the cradle/subframe (effort), but ultimately you probably need a touch more negative camber anyway so adjustable front UCAs is the ticket. Edit: just reread sounds like you're saying that wear is on the inside of the passenger, so I got my orientation wrong when I looked at the pics. if that's the case then more positive camber on that corner. Same process to fix it though. And when I look at the pics again that indeed looks like the inside of the tires is in the middle of the first pic, so that looks like inside wear... so yeah more positive camber on front right.

    rear just add some more positive camber (stock adjustment should be fine).

    Tires are pretty new, so more might show as it ages, but that's the obvious fix. Should make the car handle better too.

    Then I'd just visual inspect the joints while shaking/prying, and if all seems ordinary enough, call it a day until other symptoms develop. I might just replace the front passenger wheel bearing to see if it solves your hum. Sometimes guess and check is more efficient, but if you want to try rotating tires (which you should do anyway at this point), you can get some more datapoints before you throw parts at it.

    Keep in mind, you're going to need to realign the thing for any significant suspension changes, or even pulling apart parts if you don't take car to mark threads properly -- even then re-alignment is still best practice.

    In summary, i'd do the following:
    1) inspect and replace worn parts, including coilover parts
    2) rotate tires
    3) alignment
    4) monitor tirewear and humming noise

    Anything beyond that is extracurricular -- and likely will have poor cost-benefit. 95% of your problem here is just bad alignment.
    Last edited by james 408; 02-20-2018 at 03:27 PM.

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings shepa401's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoSnelz View Post
    I'll shoot an email to KW, thanks man! I didn't think this was something replaceable.
    This was the part number I was given for the replacement spring perch. I was told it was the same part number for both KW and ST coilovers. Worked just fine when I got it.

    Part# 65245082

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings TwoSnelz's Avatar
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    So I took the car in for a checkup and potential alignment and my mechanic pointed a few things out...

    Front control arm upper inner bushings are bad. Looks like someone tried to press new ones in and they failed.

    Lower front control arm has play in both sides of the car.

    Coilover on passenger side front and driver side rear is leaking fluid, they look to be toast.

    Well, $1400 later I have a new Meyle HD Control Arm kit, new ST Coilovers, and new inner tie rods/tie rod boots coming my way. It sucks but I'm excited to feel the difference. Should be a fun weekend installing this stuff. My buddy has a lift we are going to do it in his shop, drink some beer, and eat some pizza. Should be a blast!

    So it's not the full refresh I wanted to do and it delays my engine build plans a bit but it will give some nice peace of mind.

    Next up is wheel bearings on all 4 corners, front brake setup, and refresh rear control arms. Still haven't decided if I want to get new OEM units or just press new bushings in.
    2001.5 Cactus Green S4 - Rebuilt Motor, Frankenturbo F21s/Inlets, Gates Timing Belt, 034 Spider Hose/Rear Subframe Reinforcement/Rear Swaybar/Track Density Motor Mounts, XSPower Y-Pipe, 85mm MAF Housing, Stratosphere DVs, SSA Turboback Exhaust, JHM FMIC, Samco TBB, 550cc EV14 Injectors, Motoza 93 Tune, ST Coilovers, Rebuilt 01E, Southbend Single Mass Steel Flywheel, USP Slave Cylinder w/ Steel Braided Line, Clutchmaster FX400 6Puck Clutch

  16. #16
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Haven't done it myself but I remember hearing that you should get everything lined up at normal ride height before torqueing down the control arms. Otherwise, the bushings won't last very long. Just something to look out for.

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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings ruiz's Avatar
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    I've done it numerous times and S4ntorini is spot on. What I normally do is get it on the ground, get the proper tire pressure in, and then tighten all the bushings while it's on the ground. It's kind of a pain in the dick especially if you're lowered, but you don't have to worry about your bushings wearing prematurely. To make it less tedious, tighten all the bolts then back them off just enough so the arms move freely that way when it's on the ground you're doing far less wrenching/tightening. The car will feel brand new after you refresh it all, easily one of the best upgrades/maintenance items to do if you're old bushings are bad/original.

  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings TwoSnelz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ruiz View Post
    I've done it numerous times and S4ntorini is spot on. What I normally do is get it on the ground, get the proper tire pressure in, and then tighten all the bushings while it's on the ground. It's kind of a pain in the dick especially if you're lowered, but you don't have to worry about your bushings wearing prematurely. To make it less tedious, tighten all the bolts then back them off just enough so the arms move freely that way when it's on the ground you're doing far less wrenching/tightening. The car will feel brand new after you refresh it all, easily one of the best upgrades/maintenance items to do if you're old bushings are bad/original.
    I was going to use ECS' suggestion and measure distance from center of hub to fender while on the ground and just jack the suspension up to that height to tighten everything.

    For the top bolts I'm going to have to find factory settings since the bushings are shot I don't think the angle they are at now is correct. Get that angle and tighten outside the car when I'm installing the coils.

    Sent from my XT1254 using Audizine mobile app
    2001.5 Cactus Green S4 - Rebuilt Motor, Frankenturbo F21s/Inlets, Gates Timing Belt, 034 Spider Hose/Rear Subframe Reinforcement/Rear Swaybar/Track Density Motor Mounts, XSPower Y-Pipe, 85mm MAF Housing, Stratosphere DVs, SSA Turboback Exhaust, JHM FMIC, Samco TBB, 550cc EV14 Injectors, Motoza 93 Tune, ST Coilovers, Rebuilt 01E, Southbend Single Mass Steel Flywheel, USP Slave Cylinder w/ Steel Braided Line, Clutchmaster FX400 6Puck Clutch

  19. #19
    Senior Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 24 2014
    AZ Member #
    277489
    Location
    Newport Beach, CA
    Items for Sale

    18" wheels(leaning towards VMR V708)
    034 Density Line Front Control Arm kit
    Tie Rod Ends (Make sure you get the solid "sport" tie rod ends, not the normal rubber infused ones)
    Front Upper Strut Mounts (Go for the 034 poly upper strut mounts, no increase in NVH or front suspension harshness but helps the front feel more solid)
    Rear Upper Spring Damper
    ST X Performance Coilovers (Nix the ST coils in favor of the Vogtlands. They are much better damped and sprung than the STs)
    Rear Control Arm Bushing kit(ECS is backordered, suggestions for a daily driver?)
    Rear Sway Bar Metal Endlinks
    New Wheel bearings (all 4 corners)

    If you keep the stock front sway bar, I went with these and it makes a real tangible difference and that's on top of my solid sway bar end links. These bushings: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-powerfle...3-204-29bx2~p/

    Besides that, I added some comments above. I'd strongly suggest adding an 034 sway bar and subframe brackets to your list.
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 312K - 2.4sec FATs - Completely Refreshed/Built Motor - SRM K24s w/ Custom Turbosmart wastegates - Clutchmasters Stage 4 - Etspec - Cinesnow WG/Oil Lines - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - FCP - Bosch Motorsports - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust - Tons of New OEM parts

  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings TwoSnelz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 09 2016
    AZ Member #
    380498
    My Garage
    2001.5 Audi S4, 1998 BMW 323is
    Location
    Northeast PA

    Thank you for your recommendations.

    Based on advice given further up thread I did some research on the 034 kit and didn't really like what I read so I went with just the Meyle HD kit.

    Also since I didn't mind the ST coils when they weren't broken I just got a new set of them. Wish you posted Friday night! Prob would have grabbed the Vogtlands.

    I already have a rear sway bar and reinforcement to go with the metal end links I recently installed. I'll definitely look at the front struts mounts and sway bar bushings though.

    Sent from my XT1254 using Audizine mobile app
    2001.5 Cactus Green S4 - Rebuilt Motor, Frankenturbo F21s/Inlets, Gates Timing Belt, 034 Spider Hose/Rear Subframe Reinforcement/Rear Swaybar/Track Density Motor Mounts, XSPower Y-Pipe, 85mm MAF Housing, Stratosphere DVs, SSA Turboback Exhaust, JHM FMIC, Samco TBB, 550cc EV14 Injectors, Motoza 93 Tune, ST Coilovers, Rebuilt 01E, Southbend Single Mass Steel Flywheel, USP Slave Cylinder w/ Steel Braided Line, Clutchmaster FX400 6Puck Clutch

  21. #21
    Senior Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 24 2014
    AZ Member #
    277489
    Location
    Newport Beach, CA
    Items for Sale

    Perfect, didn't see you had the rear sway until I read your signature... Doh. I was shocked at how much difference the front sway bar bushings made, for $50 and maybe a 10 minute install it's such a good bang for the buck improvement.
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 312K - 2.4sec FATs - Completely Refreshed/Built Motor - SRM K24s w/ Custom Turbosmart wastegates - Clutchmasters Stage 4 - Etspec - Cinesnow WG/Oil Lines - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - FCP - Bosch Motorsports - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust - Tons of New OEM parts

  22. #22
    Senior Member Three Rings old_spool's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 01 2005
    AZ Member #
    7452
    Location
    Laguna Beach, CA

    If anybody hasn't said it yet...don't go with VMR wheels. I have been to their location many times and its a disorganized mess of an operation. That, and the wheel quality is nearly as low as you can get without buying some American Racing crap from America's Tire. This is one of your prized possessions...never cheap out on wheels!
    2002 S4 Nogaro Blue Avant 6MT Conversion. Stage 3 built motor.



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