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Thread: Saving my 4.2

  1. #81
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    The oil plug in the transfer case has completely given up and the torx socket is soft as cheese. Today's challenge is to get it out.

    IMG_20180326_212214.jpg

    IMG_20180326_212232.jpg

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  2. #82
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    If you have a welder, u could weld a nut on it. That would give you something to get a wrench on, and the heat will usually free up the piece... Otherwise heat around it with a propane torch to expand the metal and try to get it loose.

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  3. #83
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    On second thought, it looks brass, just heat the area around it as welding won't work on it.

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  4. #84
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Thanks. An angle grinder and a chisle did the trick:)

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  5. #85
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    When you did your overhaul, did you replace the bearings?

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  6. #86
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    I replaced some of them, but not all...

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  7. #87
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    While waiting for the zf parts order I took a closer look at the exhaust.

    Took the o2 sensors out and they do not look brilliant. I am thinking these will be replaced.

    IMG_20180401_180118.jpg

    And this is the weld between downpipes and flexpipe. Someone did this exactly wrong.

    IMG_20180401_181432.jpg

    Also, I don't think I should be able to see straight through the catalytic converter:)

    IMG_20180401_190432.jpg

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  8. #88
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Ah... The cheapest exhaust mod known to man... Gut the cat.

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  9. #89
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    Isn't that the flex pipe? That should be hollow.

  10. #90
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glennda5id View Post
    Isn't that the flex pipe? That should be hollow.
    Sorry, bad picture. The flex pipe connected the downpipe to the cat.

    IMG_20180304_205119.jpg

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  11. #91
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    Any update on that trans Martin.?

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  12. #92
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bratcop View Post
    Any update on that trans Martin.?

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    I have been chasing the zf seller for weeks. There is a holdup because of one of the items but I can't get a straight answer as to which one. It's really frustrating.

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  13. #93
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    Sorry man. That's tough.

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  14. #94
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    Any updates?

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  15. #95
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bratcop View Post
    Any updates?

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    Still chasing parts:( but I have been promised that they will arrive within the next few days

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  16. #96
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Finally the parts arrived!
    I thought the input shaft came as a complete assembly but I had to take out the old piston to reuse and noticed a torn o-ring.
    Annoying but it's on order.

    Assembled the valve body with a new transgo valve and put in the f and e clutch yesterday. Some progress...IMG_20180522_232611.jpeg

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  17. #97
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Yeah it's under way.... Another success story in the making. That o ring could easily be a major part of your previous issue

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  18. #98
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Got the final o-rings yesterday and put the a and b clutch assembly back together without much problem:)

    When taking the transmission apart I measured the distance from bellhouse face plate to the input shaft to 39 mm.

    The assembly slides in quite easily but now only to 34 mm.
    Going through videos and manuals trying to figure out what I'm missing...IMG_20180317_134652.jpeg

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  19. #99
    Established Member Two Rings
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    You replaced some hard parts, right? Like a drum? That can change measurements. Look for a spec for that distance and see if you fall within it. We are talking 5mm, right? My gut says it should be fine, but look for a spec. That 5mm seems damn close.

    Bratcop


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  20. #100
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bratcop View Post
    You replaced some hard parts, right? Like a drum? That can change measurements. Look for a spec for that distance and see if you fall within it. We are talking 5mm, right? My gut says it should be fine, but look for a spec. That 5mm seems damn close.

    Bratcop


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    Exactly, I have replaced the a clutch drum.

    The problem is that the the c clutch metal plates are really hard to get to line up exactly right to allow the a/b clutch assembly to fall into place.

    It has to go all the way in for the pump to sit flush.

    Did you have any problems getting the a/b clutch assembly in?
    Any suggestions?

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  21. #101
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    After an incredible infuriating day yesterday of not being able to get the a/b clutch in I gave it another try today. It went in on the first attempt!

    Here it is in all its fully assembled glory.

    Very happy:)IMG_20180614_214655.jpeg

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  22. #102
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, a/b clutch is last one in, right? If so that's why I had the trans standing upright on an engine stand and let gravity pull it in, took a couple trys to get all the way in. Congrats, man

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  23. #103
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    I got the transmission in yesterday:) and spent today bolting things up.

    Getting the flywheel holes to line up with the converter in order to get the bolts in was a bit of a challenge...

    Before I bolt in the starter motor I want to make sure the cable with yellow plastic connector is connected to the correct pin. On the second picture you can see the second metal pin on the right. Which pin is correct? Will it run reverse if the wrong pin in connected?IMG_20180618_215024.jpegIMG_20180618_215009.jpeg

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  24. #104
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    Sorry can't help you on that one after my daughter totaled my car had to sell it so I don't have it for a reference. the manual should tell you

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  25. #105
    Established Member Two Rings
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    look closely at the two plugs you should be able to see which one had something attached to it either by wear pattern or corrosion

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  26. #106
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Thanks. It was connected correctly. This video explains it well.
    https://youtu.be/GQlzEcpcZI0

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  27. #107
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Failure:(

    Put filter and oil in today. No drive forward or backwards and same gear ratio code.

    Not sure what to do now...

  28. #108
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    Are you kidding? My heart just sunk for you. Sorry dude. No forward gears at all, not even limp mode?

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  29. #109
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    No forward at all and when I rev it up it goes into limp mode because it slips but still no forward. My guess is that an oversized pressure regulator valve wasn't enough and that the valve body needs to be replaced and that the a drum is now shot again. Not sure what is causing no reverse now though.

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  30. #110
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    Id be suprised if the drum cracked again. My understanding is that happens as a result of pressure spikes. If the car didn't move, I don't think it developed enough pressure to crack it. Are you sure you got the torque converter seated all the way, aa that drives the pump. And even if the pressure regulator was not perfect it should be good enough to develop pressure to shift, all be it, shift too hard...

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  31. #111
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bratcop View Post
    Id be suprised if the drum cracked again. My understanding is that happens as a result of pressure spikes. If the car didn't move, I don't think it developed enough pressure to crack it. Are you sure you got the torque converter seated all the way, aa that drives the pump. And even if the pressure regulator was not perfect it should be good enough to develop pressure to shift, all be it, shift too hard...

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    I am pretty sure the torque converter is in and the pump did suck up all the ATF. But it's a good point and perhaps it's not producing enough pressure or there is a leak somewhere.

    I'm only getting the p0730 code. If there were something wrong with solenoids or torque converter I would expect other codes as well.

    For now I'm thinking of draining ATF and pressure testing with air. Might also apply some voltage to the solenoids and see if they are ok.

    Thoughts?

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  32. #112
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Pulled the transmission out again. Easier second time around.

    The pump gear is broken. The two flanges that connect to the torque converter have been sheared off. Perhaps I damaged it while bolting the transmission back in. It appears to have damaged the torque converter because it's making a clunking sound when tilted.

    The pump gear is not listed in the spare parts catalog. The only reference I have been able to find is a gear set for the zf5hp24, part # 185530b https://www.google.se/url?sa=t&sourc...q48r6L0R8hCbnA

    So the hunt begins...IMG_20180701_214213.jpeg

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  33. #113
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    call erikksonindustries.com

  34. #114
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    But why did the pump gear break? It wasn't broken upon reassembly so I would want to figure out why it broke before I replace it only to be broken again....

    Bratcop

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  35. #115
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    I do not have experience with these transmissions, but it is a very common issue with Subaru automatic transmissions where folks do not have the torque converter seated properly and when they mate the engine and transmission, the engine pushes the torque converter in which smashes the pump.

  36. #116
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    That was my thought as well, as these torque coverters need to drop in three times to seat, kinda tricky. I thought that usually resulted in the tabs being ground off the torque converter tho, not breaking the gears.... I would look closely at the gear and torque converter snout for witness marks from contact

    Bratcop

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  37. #117
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bratcop View Post
    That was my thought as well, as these torque coverters need to drop in three times to seat, kinda tricky. I thought that usually resulted in the tabs being ground off the torque converter tho, not breaking the gears.... I would look closely at the gear and torque converter snout for witness marks from contact

    Bratcop

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    Most likely the torque converter wasn't seated correctly when I bolted on the transmission. I'm going to try to have the torque converter tested to make sure it's alright.

    New pump arrived today.IMG_20180716_113849.jpeg

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  38. #118
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Bolted the transmission back in yesterday. Filling procedure went well and it's shifted smoothly through the gears.

    Haven't test driven it yet because now I appear to have a problem with no ignition signal to the starter motor that I'm trying to resolve here: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=820698

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  39. #119
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    Congratulations on the transmission rebuild assuming it's all good. Persevered in the face defeat. Be proud and fear not the Diy.

    Bratcop

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  40. #120
    Established Member Two Rings martinhnilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bratcop View Post
    Congratulations on the transmission rebuild assuming it's all good. Persevered in the face defeat. Be proud and fear not the Diy.

    Bratcop

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