Allroad "411R0AD" Stage 2 Build - No Bolt Left Un-turned!

[DreamInRotary]

Hey guys,
First off thanks for checking out the build thread! Hopefully I'm able to help some people with their builds through pictures and information that they find interesting here in my build thread. That's always been the best part of build threads in my opinion

Intro to myself:
I'm a car enthusiast and have been into modifying cars for almost 10 years now. My main interest is in old Wankel rotary engine powered cars, specifically the FB First Gen Mazda RX-7's.
If you're so inclined, feel free to click on my "RXSE7EN" build thread here: RXSE7EN -
Building a Killer FB Mazda RX-7 REXOMOD

Intro to the Car:
2001 Audi Allroad Quattro 2.7t Twin Turbo 30v V6 6 Speed Manual 01E
08/30/2017 Purchased with 142,043 miles from Will Dicker Auto in Shakopee, MN

• Previous Maintenance:
  85,000 Febi Control Arms and Tie Rods
  90,000 New Driveshaft
  120,000 Timing Belt Service Done

• Previous Modifications:
  5% Window Tint (on all rear windows)
  EPL Stage 1 Tuned ECU
  Magnaflow Catback Exhaust
  Hotchkis Swaybars (Front and Rear)
  Arnott Gen 2's on all 4 corners (First Generation Gen 2's, the old version)
  034 Snub Mount

Needless to say I was super excited to get my hands on a manual Allroad since I'd always wanted one as a daily driver!

First picture I ever took of the car in-person, when we were inspecting it. I ended up not buying it this day since I went home and thought about it overnight.


First picture I took of the car after purchasing it. Went out to eat at Five Guys to celebrate!


A few pictures after the first detailing I did with the car, cleans ups nice!










Little did I know what was coming my way...

[DreamInRotary]

I started leaving coolant trails everywhere I went, not really sure where the stuff was coming from.
This phenomenon was weird because it seemed like it wouldn't lose coolant while driving but would drain while parked and off, or while running and parked.








As you can see, there was a ton of coolant coming from above the oil cooler apparatus somewhere and draining down onto the hoses and oil filter itself. I knew it had to be up there somewhere but wasn't exactly sure where since I couldn't see it from the top side of the car. This would be found later...

If you scroll back up to the first pic in this thread, you'll see that the front end was slammed on the front wheels. I wasn't sure if this was just due to a programming error (maybe a 402 MOD gone wrong or something), or something more sinister...
So I started parking it on Level 3 or Level 4 to see what the front end would do. Sure enough it would slam the front to the ground but the rear would hold up. This is when I started suspecting the bags and assumed I'd have to replace them at some point in the near future.

Pic of the car right before the front bags refused to start airing up anymore:

[DreamInRotary]

Planned Maintenance:

• Timing Belt Kit w/Water Pump
• Valve Cover Gaskets
• Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
• Thermostat
• Spark Plugs
• Fuel Filter
• Cabin Air Filter
• Rebuild Spider Hose
• Amsoil for all fluids
• OEM Shifter Linkage Rebuild

Planned Modifications:

• EPL Stage 2 Tune
• True 3" Downpipes
• Rebuild K03 Turbos w/Upgraded 360deg Thrust Bearings
• 710-N Diverter Valves (OEM HD)
• K&N Air Filter
• "Darintake" 2.7t Air Box Modification
• SAI Pump Delete
• Silicone Charge Piping Hose Upgrade w/TBB and F-Hose
• Pioneer Double DIN Stereo
• Reverse Camera
• 2) Pioneer 10" Subs in a Sealed Box
• 17z Brembo 6-Piston Front Brake Caliper Setup
• EBC Red Brake Pads All 4 Corners
• JHM Solid Shifter Stabilizer Bushing
• Arnott Front Air Bags
• Arnott Front Shocks
• "IPP" Allroad Arms
• 402 Mod (Adjusted)

[DreamInRotary]

Then it came time to start the tear down of the car!

Big thanks to the guy who stripped this out and left it for me...






Finally got it figured out after welding a nut to the bolt and was able to get the front clip off of the car.


Probably 20 hours of work later I had the engine and trans out in one piece. A whole lot of learning on this car for sure.

[DreamInRotary]

I decided that if I was gonna be redoing the brakes anyways, I should just go all in and go for a BBK of some sort. I settled on the 17z's since they're widely available and require little to no modifications to work on the AR.

I got super lucky and ended up snagging a set of front brake rotors, remanufactured rear calipers, EBC Red Pads for the rear, and a new Alternator for an Allroad that someone was parting out on eBay. So the rears are all new too!

Now I have the following setup on the car:
Brembo 17z rebuilt front calipers
Remanufactured rear calipers
EBC Red Pads all around
ECS Stainless Steel rear brake lines
Stoptech Stainless Steel front brake lines
Centric Premium 2005 Mercedes C230 SPORT front rotors cross-drilled
Centric Premium stock Allroad rear rotors

Pics barely do these things justice, they're massive!




Tore them down and sent them through the ultrasonic cleaner and they came out amazingly clean!




Decided to paint them with POR-15 caliper paint. The stuff ended up running a bit on the application, but I don't mind too much. They'll be buried behind some wheels and didn't need to be show-quality.


Got them completely rebuilt and loaded with the EBC Red Brake Pads. Should be a crazy setup when it's up and running.


Pic of how I got the inner diameter of the brake disc ground out to size so that it would fit on the Allroad properly.


Then of course there's gotta be pics of the goods installed!!!






Some awesome writeups on using Brembo BBK's on Audi's:
DIY: Cayenne/Touareg Front Brakes (el cheapo BBK)
allroad cheap Brembo BBK (Big Brake Kit) DIY....

[DreamInRotary]

So since the car was getting dumped on its face all the time from leaky front bags, I decided I had to do something about it. Some magic happened and *POOF* I got new Arnott's for the front of the car.

I ended up with these ones: Arnott Front Air Spring - 98-05 Audi A6/allroad Quattro (C5) - Left or Right

While I was digging around in there I figured I could take the time to replace the front shocks too. I have heard 3 times to try and find low mileage Allroad shocks instead of running the Arnott shocks. But I chose to ignore these people (since none of them said they actually had experience with each of them installed and running). So I'll let you know how I like these later once this beast is up and running!
I got these from RockAuto since they were quite a bit cheaper than anywhere else (and I love RA to be honest):More Information for ARNOTT SK2779@ $133.79/ea right now

Original Arnott Early Gen 2's that came out of the car:


The equivalent replacements that Arnott sent me:


Air bag with its new shock:


Here the whole setup is mounted together!


While I was screwing with suspension stuff, I wanted to do the "IPP" arms too but couldn't find them anywhere! Finally, after a ton of searching, I found somewhere that actually sold them publicly for a decent price.
ProjectB5 Allroad Arms: PROJECT:B5 - Audi Allroad (Modified) Level Arms @ $55 for the set of 4

Here they are installed on the level sensors:


Some good links for those looking to do similar mods:
Installed IPP level arms on my 4.2 allroad this weekend
The 402 Mod: Suspension adjustment via VAG-COM tool
Ride height level sensor DIY repair.

[DreamInRotary]

G-Pop Shop Turbo Rebuilds: KKK K03/K04 TURBO REBUILD KIT

I chose to go with the more expensive "High-Performance" optioned kit that has "an upgraded 360° thrust bearing and a step gap piston ring that will increase the durability and longevity of your turbo" as they state. This added $40 to each kit, so $119/ea times 2 = $238 in turbo rebuild kits. But they came out super nice!

Differences between the stock thrust bearing and the upgraded 360 degree one that G-Pop sells:




Pic of the low-mileage K03 replacement turbos that I'd be rebuilding to use in the Allroad:


The box that they came in, from a local Audi guy that had them on his shelf for years. He said they came from another Allroad that was going to Stage 3 and the guy just didn't need these anymore. Luckily I was making a purchase for a new passenger's side front door and cargo cover from him and he gave me these with the deal. This turned out to be extremely helpful because mine were nasty! Pics incoming.


One side completely torn down, cleaned off, sent through the ultrasonic cleaner, and laid out with the chosen rebuild kit:


All torqued up, rebuilt, feels like a new turbo now!


Other side completely torn down, cleaned off, sent through the ultrasonic cleaner, and laid out with the chosen rebuild kit:


All torqued up, rebuilt, feels like a new turbo now!


Cleaned up and rebuilt turbo in front of the stock one that I pulled out of the car.


Look at how disgusting these turbos were! Both the driver's side and passenger's side turbos came out looking like this. That's the main reason I chose to rebuild those low mileage replacements, just on how dirty these ones were.


Needless to say, those old turbos were completely blown. There was an unhealthy amount of oil and coolant all over them, and a gnarly amount of shaft play in them both (both side-to-side and in-and-out). As fun as this car was to drive with turbos like that I can't wait to see what the rebuilt ones feel like in there!

[DreamInRotary]

Last little tidbit on the day, be careful with what you do in the coolant or oil system!

I found this little present in the coolant feed hose to one of the turbos.




Someone must have used some blue RTV to seal something up on the motor at one point in the car's history. This was allowed to dry and migrated to, if not the most narrow, one of the narrowest spots in the entire cooling system - the intersection between the banjo bolt and the turbo coolant feed line. These bolts have tiny holes in them that don't allow much coolant into the turbo to start with, and this one was most definitely being starved of its necessary coolant supply. So just be careful with silicone's and sealants when using them in motor builds. I'm sure this poor turbo wasn't being helped by having an unnatural restriction in its feed line.

[SteelyS6]

Nice work!

Yikes on that silicone, some people shouldn't be allowed to touch a tube of silicone period.

[m_haiser]

I was always under the impression turbos had to be rebalanced if they were rebuilt. am I mistaken?

[DreamInRotary]

Nice work!

Yikes on that silicone, some people shouldn't be allowed to touch a tube of silicone period.

I completely agree. There are some other, even more terrifying, examples of this that I've seen online before. I got lucky in that I can't find remnants of more silicone throughout the motor and it should hopefully be a somewhat isolated incident.

I was always under the impression turbos had to be rebalanced if they were rebuilt. am I mistaken?

They do need to be balanced after being rebuilt if you are unable to get them completely lined back up the way they were initially. I made scribe marks and paint marks on the wheels, nuts, and shaft so that I could get them to all line back up and (supposedly) not be out-of-balance.

[m_haiser]

i mean this in the most sincere way but good luck with that. personally i wouldnt trust it. nicebuild so far though. hopefully soon ill be in a similar boat....

[JorisRS6]

Good work. Keep it up. Im going through the same process. I like your mod list. Good luck with “No bolt left unturned”.

[DreamInRotary]

i mean this in the most sincere way but good luck with that. personally i wouldnt trust it. nicebuild so far though. hopefully soon ill be in a similar boat....

You know, with age comes wisdom. I'll answer this later in this reply...read further down to see what I mean.

Good work. Keep it up. Im going through the same process. I like your mod list. Good luck with “No bolt left unturned”.

Thanks man! And yeah, "No Bolt Left Un-Turned" is most definitely ambitious with this ship of a car. That would be a ridiculous amount of hardware to touch

Pic of almost all of the turbo lines after going through the ultrasonic cleaner - oil feed lines and all turbo coolant feed/return lines (missing the passenger's side coolant feed line).


Driver's side turbocharger with every line except the turbo oil return line. The plumbing on these engines is just insane!


Closeup of the driver's side turbo hose routing.


Another one, just because I found it incredibly amusing


Here's the turbos coming back apart...but why?


These are why:




So, now I'm going back to m_haiser's comment stating, "good luck with that". When I first read that it honestly kind of pissed me off.
I read it as a snide comment with malicious intent. Then as I sat and thought about it more I realized that it most likely wasn't meant in such a manner, but as a cautionary comment.
So I reconsidered his comment, and happened to see a post on Facebook shortly thereafter with recommendations for turbo balancing shops here in MN.

Let's just say I was able to put 2 and 2 together and get 4 out of it.

I brought the turbo shafts, wheels, compressor nuts, thrust collars and thrust washers all together to Diesel Components Inc. here in MN, down in Burnsville.
They're going to balance the assembly in the next day or two for me. I hope to be able to pick it up on Friday morning or afternoon, but won't push it too much.

I figured that pulling apart the turbos to have them rebuilt for around $120 was a much better idea than reinstalling and running them. That could potentially lead to winding up pulling the engine and everything back out because the turbos ate themselves alive in the first thousand miles. I figure that I'll have much more peace-of-mind this way when driving the car, it won't be nagging in the back of my mind.

[m_haiser]

I honestly didn't intend to come off as snide or rude. I'm glad you reconsidered however because like you said it would be a terrible feeling for the engine to have to come back out in short time.
I understand having scribed and marked everything prior to disassembly but with something that spins tens of thousands of rpms the slightest difference could be catastrophic. as I said before, good luck on the restoration, it looks like youre headed in the right direction for sure.

[DreamInRotary]

I honestly didn't intend to come off as snide or rude. I'm glad you reconsidered however because like you said it would be a terrible feeling for the engine to have to come back out in short time.
I understand having scribed and marked everything prior to disassembly but with something that spins tens of thousands of rpms the slightest difference could be catastrophic. as I said before, good luck on the restoration, it looks like youre headed in the right direction for sure.

Hey man, no worries!
That feeling I got while taking the comment the wrong way is something I see as a huge problem currently in this country, as well as the world. Not being able to see past your own screen and understand that someone who says something contrary to your own personal opinion isn't attacking you, most often it's advice - or could be taken as constructive criticism even if it is an attack.

The feeling also was because I knew you were right and that I would most likely post the same thing in someone else's build thread. So I really do appreciate the comment man.
It made me realize that I'm willing to spend all this money and time refurbishing this car, but would skimp on rebuilding the turbos? No, that wasn't right.

[m_haiser]

Hey man, no worries!
That feeling I got while taking the comment the wrong way is something I see as a huge problem currently in this country, as well as the world. Not being able to see past your own screen and understand that someone who says something contrary to your own personal opinion isn't attacking you, most often it's advice - or could be taken as constructive criticism even if it is an attack.

The feeling also was because I knew you were right and that I would most likely post the same thing in someone else's build thread. So I really do appreciate the comment man.
It made me realize that I'm willing to spend all this money and time refurbishing this car, but would skimp on rebuilding the turbos? No, that wasn't right.

smart man! if I could sell this stupid jetta id have picked up an 05 fbp allroad I found and be restoring to (nearly) the same degree as you

[DreamInRotary]

Alright, so now I'm at a point where I know that I should be replacing the clutch while I'm digging around in the car this much. What's in the car currently is undocumented, which is terrifying. Since I'm going Stage 2 I'll be pushing enough more power than a stock setup that I know it's time to do the clutch (and flywheel) while everything is apart.

This where I hit my first experience with a Dual Mass Flywheel versus a Single Mass Flywheel. Trying to learn the jargon of DMFW or DMF, SMFW or SMF, LWSMFW or LWSMFW was new to me. This is due to the fact that I come from the land of RX-7's where they just have a steel plate and counterweight assembly all as one (unless you go lightweight FW, then you need an automatic counterweight from a matching engine series to balance your rotating assembly properly...but that's for a different time). The way I interpret these things is DMFW or DMF stands for Dual Mass Flywheel, SMFW or SMF stands for Single Mass Flywheel, and LWSMFW stands for Light Weight (Lightweight) Single Mass Flywheel. So I got over this hump yesterday...

...and found out it' recommended to replace the DMFW when the clutch is replaced in a usual maintenance schedule This was news to me. So let's go to my research and try to figure out a replacement for this build.

Some great info can be found here: 04 Allroad 2.7T Valeo single mass flywheel kit
I wouldn't have had this idea without that thread, so a big shout out to those guys!

OPTION 1 - $488.79+s/h Single Mass Flywheel conversion with clutch kit from Valeo -
OPTION 2 - $573.99+s/h TTV SMLWFW Lightweight Audi S4 / RS4 2.7T Lite to B7 RS4 Clutch Conversion -
OPTION 3 - $584.74+s/h C5 Stock DMFW With B5 RS4 Clutch -
OPTION 4 - $738.95+s/h TTV SMLWFW Lightweight Audi S4 / RS4 2.7T Lite to B5 RS4 Clutch -

OPTION 1 - Single Mass Flywheel conversion from Valeo - $488.79+s/h
PART - RockAuto VALEO 52405618 - $488.79+s/h
"Conversion Kit; 9-7/16" x 15/16" x 23T; Includes Flywheel
More vehicles in the last two decades were produced in OE with a dual mass flywheel (DMF). Although the DMF has advantages, there are many disadvantages too, especially replacement in the aftermarket. Here are some issues with the DMF:
The user should not try to resurface upon failure, therefore, a new expensive one is needed
Due to a high price, many aftermarket providers will not stock the DMF sufficiently, leading to installers and end users going directly to dealerships
High failure rate in some applications leads to warranty returns and a high level of customer dissatisfaction
To solve this troubling issue, Valeo has designed and brought Solid Flywheel Conversion Kits to the market. Now, with one of these kits, a failed DMF setup can be completely replaced. The key advantages include:
Cost savings of 30% - 50%
Greater durability – no wear components in the simpler solid flywheel (dual mass is complex with many parts that can cause failure)
Comparable performance
High level of customer satisfaction"

OPTION 2 - TTV SMFW Lightweight Audi S4 / RS4 2.7T Lite to B7 RS4 Clutch Conversion - $573.99+s/h
INFO - TTV Racing - Audi S4 / RS4 2.7T Lite to B7 RS4 Clutch
"Audi S4 / RS4 2.7T Lite to suit RS4 B7 clutch
Its becoming a popular upgrade to use the RS4 B7 clutch on the 2.7T cars
This flywheel was designed at the request of our customers wanting TTV Racing quality."
PART SRM TTV Flywheel - $439.00+s/h
PART - RockAuto LUK 02050 - $134.99+s/h
"RepSet® The LuK RepSet is the industry's most recognized and trusted clutch brand, covering 98% of North America's light vehicle population. When you install a LuK RepSet, you get a replacement set with the same flawless performance as our original-equipment parts. Designed and engineered to perfectly match the vehicle's unique performance characteristics.
Every LuK RepSet is tested and guaranteed to meet critical performance specifications, including torque capacity, material hardness, hub spline tolerance, wear capacity, clamp load, pressure plate lift and torsional vibration dampening. That promise is backed by the industry's most trusted warranty."

OPTION 3 - C5 DMFW With B5 RS4 Clutch - $584.74+s/h
PART - RockAuto LUK DMF027 - $284.79+s/h
"LuK dual-mass flywheels absorb engine vibrations before they are transmitted to the driveline where they can create gear rattle. These units feature a built-in damper designed to isolate engine torque spikes and prevent transmission damage. By design, dual-mass flywheels cannot be resurfaced."
PART - Europa B5 RS4 2.7t Luk Clutch Kit - $299.95+s/h
"Bolt-on, Genuine OEM (Luk) clutch kit that the European-spec 380HP Audi RS4 B5 came with from the factory. This kit provides with more clamping force along with an OEM type clutch pedal feel. In most cases, this is the best clutch upgrade for this application. Fits all 2.7T Audi (S4 B5, A6 C5, allroad C5) models with manual transmission." OEM: 078198123G MPN: 624303300 By LuK

OPTION 4 - TTV SMFW Lightweight Audi S4 / RS4 2.7T Lite to B5 RS4 Clutch - $738.95+s/h
INFO - TTV Racing - Audi S4 / RS4 2.7T Lite
"Audi S4 / RS4 2.7T Lite
The nicest lightweight 1 piece steel flywheel on the market, used worldwide by some of the most powerful S4 and RS4’s on track and daily drivers."
PART SRM TTV Flywheel - $439.00+s/h
PART - Europa B5 RS4 2.7t Luk Clutch Kit - $299.95+s/h
"Bolt-on, Genuine OEM (Luk) clutch kit that the European-spec 380HP Audi RS4 B5 came with from the factory. This kit provides with more clamping force along with an OEM type clutch pedal feel. In most cases, this is the best clutch upgrade for this application. Fits all 2.7T Audi (S4 B5, A6 C5, allroad C5) models with manual transmission." OEM: 078198123G MPN: 624303300 By Luk

OPTION 1 - Single Mass Flywheel conversion from Valeo -
OPTION 2 - TTV SMFW Lightweight Audi S4 / RS4 2.7T Lite to B7 RS4 Clutch Conversion -
OPTION 3 - C5 Stock DMFW With B5 RS4 Clutch -
OPTION 4 - TTV SMFW Lightweight Audi S4 / RS4 2.7T Lite to B5 RS4 Clutch -

I'm pretty convinced that I'll be going with OPTION 2 at this point. It would make it so that the flywheel would weigh in at only 15.4lbs (listed as 7kg on their site) versus 28.5lbs (stock weight I found online). That's 12.9 pounds of rotational inertia savings! Should spool up like crazy when completed! This would also allow me to change clutches for that $134.99 price point for B7 RS4 clutches that were on cars with 4.2L V8's pushing 414hp and 317ftlb of torque, more than I ever plan to push in this car!

Also, just in case you were wondering, this is the clutch I run in my RX-7. Twin disc OS Giken setup on a lightweight flywheel, and I used to have an even lighter setup on a turbo rotary engine a few years back. So I don't have an issue with running lighter flywheels and stiffer clutches in cars currently.

[DreamInRotary]

Huge shoutout to Diesel Components Inc. down in Burnsville, MN - they did some great work!
Awesome service and turnaround time, I'll be going back there for any future turbo work I need done for sure.


These things turned out great! Came back even cleaner than when I dropped them off.


Exhaust turbines are almost literally perfect, I can't find an issue with them anywhere.


Compressor turbines are 97% perfect, only a tiny bend on one fin of each from when I removed them from the housings. Will try to straighten them to the best of my ability and not bend anything upon reinstallation.


Got some more parts ordered today, will hopefully be getting those in next week, or the week after at the latest. Might get the time and drive to go out tonight and get the timing belt/water pump stuff all done and installed if I'm lucky.

[jbain2]

Option 2 for your clutch setup is the way to go. It will have a stock feel and should you ever decide to try for more power, several folks run this setup on 400+ AWHP.

I would also second the wise decision to have the turbos balanced. Unless you replace the entire center housing, having them balanced is well worth the peace of mind. Think about the 20 hours of work and ask if it's worth the extra $100 or so?

Nice attention to detail so far. Keep up the strong work.

[m_haiser]

the clutch setup I went with on my 3- F21 equipped S4 was B5 RS4 pressure plate, SRM sprung 6 puck clutch disc, and oem DMFW that I lightly resurfaced with a sanding disc. held up to everything I threw at it including a couple trips down the 1/4 mile.
only thing that didn't hold up was my clutch fork pivot, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder failed after a 21 hour drive so I went with metal slave and braided line and never had issues again. just food for thought

[DreamInRotary]

Option 2 for your clutch setup is the way to go. It will have a stock feel and should you ever decide to try for more power, several folks run this setup on 400+ AWHP.

Thanks for the input on the clutch setup! I'm pretty excited to take pictures of the setup when it gets here on Monday/Tuesday

I would also second the wise decision to have the turbos balanced. Unless you replace the entire center housing, having them balanced is well worth the peace of mind. Think about the 20 hours of work and ask if it's worth the extra $100 or so?

Exactly. The peace of mind was the biggest thing to me. I know that now I'll have no reservations about doing some gnarly 3rd gear pulls to redline with the car, whereas with unbalanced turbos they would have always been the first thing on my mind that could blow.

Nice attention to detail so far. Keep up the strong work.

Thanks again man! I have big plans this weekend since I have Monday off of college classes, so I'll try to get a ton further on the build this long weekend.

the clutch setup I went with on my 3- F21 equipped S4 was B5 RS4 pressure plate, SRM sprung 6 puck clutch disc, and oem DMFW that I lightly resurfaced with a sanding disc. held up to everything I threw at it including a couple trips down the 1/4 mile.
only thing that didn't hold up was my clutch fork pivot, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder failed after a 21 hour drive so I went with metal slave and braided line and never had issues again. just food for thought

Good to know on the DMF setup you had, that's gnarly!

I already bought a new replacement slave cylinder that I'll be installing in the car. Again, I come from the land of RX-7's. Not even kidding, I usually carry around a spare slave cylinder with the tools needed to swap it out (since we can do it from the driver's side top of the transmission with only hand tools) because they're so prone to blowing out. I didn't want to get all of the car done and have an issue with the slave cylinder, so I'll be replacing this one preemptively.

[DreamInRotary]

One of the main reasons I wanted to pull the turbos in this car was this turbo oil drain line that I spotted. It was on the driver's side turbo and it looked like someone had smacked it with a hammer or something a while back. I knew that it wasn't good for the setup, so a new one was ordered from WolfAutoParts which is local to me.


Another view of how bad the dent was:


"Old and busted vs. new hotness"


Turbos were properly put back together, with a careful consideration to make sure they stay balanced. I can't wait to see how much better the response is in the car!


Then I got the transmission separated from the engine finally, since I had been putting it off. Pulling them apart wasn't too bad...but putting it together is going to be a chore I think, I can already foresee it...

[DreamInRotary]

So I was looking at the clutch pressure plate and wondering, do you think this was the OEM clutch in the car? I mean, it still has the Audi stamps on the pressure plate and could potentially be OEM at 145xxx miles right?.. If so I'd be really impressed.


Got the rear main seal cover off and cleaned up.


New rear main seal cover with rear main seal installed, should help eliminate any slow leaks from back there.


So I was pretty confident that I was going to go with the OPTION 2 clutch option when I had seen it earlier. Well, the surprise is here!
This is the package that I ordered from TTV on FRIDAY last week and it got here MONDAY this week!!! 3 days to get from London, UK to Minnesota, USA - that's insane!
Needless to say I'm very impressed with the thing so far, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.


Box it was shipped in was very well done:


Part # and description: 3509


Original dual mass flywheel weight:


TTV Lite single mass flywheel weight:


So I'll be saving 14.5lbs off of my rotational inertia - the thing should spool up extremely quick I believe!

TTV flywheel installed:


B7 RS4 clutch kit from Luk 02050:


Clutch kit installed on flywheel:


I'm super stoked to get to run this setup!
I'll tell ya, this thing has some crazy clamping force to say the least...tightening down the pressure plate bolts really showed that. I've dealt with some gnarly clutches but I think this one takes the cake. Should be more than able to handle what I'll be throwing at it.

[DreamInRotary]

So, as usual, had some bolt problems again on the car.
Went to take the slave cylinder off of the transmission since I'm replacing it and the bolt snapped off in the transmission.




Here I got an idea of how to fix it.


I figured this way I'd be able to extend the stud and just use a nut instead of a bolt to hold the slave cylinder on the transmission.


Got the welder out and this picture was after some grinding to get it back down to size (so that the slave cylinder could slide over it.


The general idea here.


So with all of that, I plan on using at least one washer and a locking nut to hold the slave cylinder on the transmission. I do think that I'll have to compress the slave before installing it so that I can get more room and maneuverability while trying to get it in place. Looking at the bolt that snapped off in the transmission, I am pretty sure that I couldn't get that thing out if I tried. It snapped the head right off the bolt without much effort and it looks very nasty and corroded into the transmission itself. Hopefully this fix works as-is! I don't see why it wouldn't!

Speaking of broken bolts, I had to get new transmission mounts because one of my mounting bolts snapped off and I didn't want to be flapping a transmission around the tunnel anytime soon.

[DreamInRotary]

Then it was onto fixing up the intake piping, since I thought it looked like trash.


The lower intake piping (the ones that run on the valve covers and down to the turbo intake pipes) had a bad reaction with some degreaser in the ultrasonic cleaner I think. This caused the paint to rise and separate from the piping itself, looking nasty. I was trying to figure out what I wanted to do with it to fix this problem and started to get an idea...

Those smaller pipes that had the paint problems I used a wire wheel on a drill to remove as much paint as possible. Taped off and paint prepped the parts afterwards, don't want some paint in weird places upon reinstallation.


4 even coats of self-etching primer on all parts and surfaces, to help the finish coat stick to something besides bare metal. This is probably dry by now and I'll be able to do the finish coating tonight if I'm lucky.


Hint: I plan on going with a finish that should hide all blemishes in the parts and look pretty awesome when finished. It's commonly available in auto parts stores, I'll say that much. Stay tuned!

[DreamInRotary]

Here she is, wrinkle black paint!




One spot on the right side of the y-pipe bothered me so I'm working on fixing it up and making it all evenly coated in wrinkles. If it doesn't come out right I may end up recoating the entire top surface to get an even finish.

[JorisRS6]

Looks good. Are you not afraid that the wrinkle coat is hard to clean. Ive been using zinc spray to coat some parts. It looks pretty good and is good against corrosion

[Frankie_6MT]

You really have a good work space it seems with a nice workbench. That's sweet man... makes the build look so much more proper than mine lol. Very OEM and classy I love it. Keep up the good work!! I already learned a few things from this thread, I will be following this build with excitement 👍😃

You may have it covered. But coolant Oring kit is a must. Cam/crankshaft Seals too

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Audizine mobile app

[DreamInRotary]

Looks good. Are you not afraid that the wrinkle coat is hard to clean. Ive been using zinc spray to coat some parts. It looks pretty good and is good against corrosion

I'm not too worried that it'll be hard to clean. If I wind up not liking it I'll probably just respray it all semi-gloss black this summer honestly.

You really have a good work space it seems with a nice workbench. That's sweet man... makes the build look so much more proper than mine lol. Very OEM and classy I love it. Keep up the good work!! I already learned a few things from this thread, I will be following this build with excitement 👍😃

You may have it covered. But coolant Oring kit is a must. Cam/crankshaft Seals too

Thanks man! This is the best work space in my life so far. I built it up from a bare garage shell with only minimal wiring, no insulation, no sheetrock, had almost nothing in it besides a garage door opener. Unfortunately I believe we will be moving in July, so I'll be losing this space. All good things come in time though, so I'll figure it out as I always have.

[DreamInRotary]

A few updates since the last time I was on here. Making slow progress, day by day. Honestly this is taking a lot longer than I previously expected. Part of it is because I want to make sure everything is done as rightly as possible the first time in order to avoid having to redo anything.

Transmission and engine were mated fairly easily, which I was very surprised about.




Front end of the engine when it was all going back together and into the car.


Engine and transmission are back in the car and on their mounts now, finally.


Got most of the driver's side of the engine put together on the night it was mounted in the car.

[DreamInRotary]

Here's a relatively instructional sort of post where I found out how to make my own version of an electric fan kit for the 2.7t Audi setup.
It all started when I discovered that the black plastic charge pipe from the driver's side intercooler doesn't fit as tightly to the motor as it does from the factory when using the autobahn88 silicone boost hoses. The main issue is that the throttle body pushes the pipes out a little bit further than the stock throttle body does, pushing the charge pipes towards the radiator. In doing so, the stock clutch fan on the driver's side contacts the charge pipe. Since I didn't want to go back to the OEM boost hoses (they were so nasty, expanded, corroded and scarred from use I wouldn't trust them) the only option left to me was to run an electric fan. I saw that JHM and ProjectB5 both sell EFK's, as seen here:
$190.00 ProjectB5 - "PROJECT:B5 - (EFK) High-Speed Electric Fan Kit"
$215.00 JHM - "JHM Electric Fan Kit V2 (EFK) High or Medium Flow for B5-S4, C5 A6-allroad with 2.7T"
Both of those kits look like excellently assembled and would be a great option for someone wanting to have a bolt-on ready setup.

Useful link where I got a ton of info: Audiworld - "Visco fan delete - electric fan"

That's not quite how I run.
So here's a rundown of how I made my own kit.

A 14" e-fan fits perfectly in the space left behind by the stock clutch fan.
Searching around online I found that I wanted one of these fans by Permacool and purchased it from Summit. It seemed like the best option with the most CFM at a low amperage that I trusted.
$74.98 Summit - "Perma-Cool Standard Electric Fans 18124"
Maximum Fan CFM: 1,850 cfm
Fan Quantity: Single
Fan Diameter (in): 14.000 in.
Height (in): 14.250 in.
Width (in): 14.250 in.
Thickness (in): 2.750 in.

Fit right in the hole like I planned!


Here's how it looks from the front. I used the zip tie mounting system that they give you with the fans to keep it in place. I always use the padding they give you with the mounts in order to minimize wear or scarring on the radiator.


So as far as wiring goes, it's relatively straight-forward. Follow the JHM EFK instructions that are available for download on their site listed under the pictures as such "Installation pics and notes HERE". Click on the word "HERE" and you'll get a zip file with 14 pics, a note, and a pic of the wiring configuration. Again, all credit goes to JHM and the time they spent putting their kit and wiring diagram together.


Here's my fused power connection to the relay that I'll be using in my setup, wired as neatly as possible.


Where I decided to run my wiring through the firewall.


Another pic of where I ran the wiring, trying to be somewhat sneaky to those people who don't know what's supposed to be in a 2.7t engine bay.


Power wire is on the left side of this pic, trigger wire on the right.


Here is the trigger wire and the power wire going into the relay that I'll be using.


This is where I'm going to mount the relay when everything is all said and done, down underneath the stock wiring to hide it as best as possible.


Here's the wiring harness for the fan that I made, without ultra-particular details.
The wiring that the fan came with is soldered to 12ga wires that are feeding the current from positive (from the relay) and the ground.


You can see that the only wire coming out of the harness here is a positive one.


This positive wire is to feed the fan from the relay. The ground is connected in that harness to the brown wire. This eliminated having to run another wire outside of the harness again and helped in making everything as concealed as possible. Now I'll be able to hide the relay better underneath the bottom plug on the stock mount.


So that's how to wire in an electric fan in an Allroad, A6, probably tons of other Audi models as well. Let me know if there's any confusion on how to install it.

[DreamInRotary]

Most of everything is done on the front and top end of the motor now, an update pic.


Making progress as often as possible.


Going to hope that I can get everything on the bottom side of the motor and transmission mounted up today so that I can finish this thing up soon!

[m_haiser]

thank you for that post, looking into E fans myself as the fan blade on my visco fan looks like its going to explode at any moment.

[DreamInRotary]

thank you for that post, looking into E fans myself as the fan blade on my visco fan looks like its going to explode at any moment.

No worries, always glad to be a help!

Since I didn't want to leave the Visco fan pulley in the car (primarily out of stubbornness and to clear some space) I removed it and was left with this gaping hole in the timing belt cover.


I ordered JHM's timing belt cover fix for this spot that you can purchase here: JHM Electric Fan Kit (EFK) Timing Cover Block Off Plate for B5-S4, C5 A6-allroad 2.7T It's $25 and well worth it, an awesome part when you get it in hand.

However, due to some issues with the USPS shipping timing, I ended up making my own out of .025" brushed aluminum that I bought in a sheet from Fleet Farm.
Initial cuts in the flat sheet to get it close to size:


Got some relief cuts and a 90 degree bend in there:


Fitment came out pretty nice! Holes are for the rivet locations that won't be near the timing belt itself.


I used some sheet metal screws to keep the cover in place, so I can easily remove them when the next timing belt service comes due.


Overall shot showing that I had almost everything installed in the car finally, as well as the fitment of the blockoff plate.

[DreamInRotary]

Let's get into what it's like to install the true 3" to 3" stainless steel downpipe setup that most people (including myself) call "eBay Downpipes".

Here are a ton of links to what are all essentially the same downpipe setup:
$365.00 SS Auto Chrome: *NEW* AUDI S4 A6 ALLROAD 2.7 - TRUE 3 inch DOWNPIPES V BAND 6MT
$415.00 XS Power: 3" Downpipe Set for 1997-2004 B5 Audi S4 2.7T VBand
$279.99 Powergo Motorsport: Exhaust Downpipes 3" 76mm +Adapters K04/RS6 FOR Audi S4 B5 A6/Allroad C5 2.7L

The ones I bought have "XS Power" on a tag on the piping, but these are all the same. Look at the pictures for the SSAC site and the one for the XSPOWER site, they even use the same pictures in the descriptions!

Pictures of the setup on the ground, so you can see how they are supposed to work (except the extension pipes should be switched).


Again, extension pipes should be switched:


Also you can't install these with the O2 sensors installed, you need to have them removed which sucks but whatever.


What the down pipes themselves look like installed in the car without the extensions:


Fitment on the passenger's side of the car:


Fitment on the driver's side of the car:


Extension pipes installed:






Overall, I'd say the installation went pretty well. I'll add a few notes on the installation process to help others that are considering buying this setup.

Notes:
1. Make sure that you have an abundance of patience on the day you try to install these puppies.
2. You have to cut the long midpipe to get it to fit properly. I cut it to fit in the passenger's side and it worked pretty well.
3. Reaching the bolts can be a major pain in the a$$, just be prepared.
4. Overall they're well worth the sub-$300 price point that you can get them for on eBay in my opinion, they fit quite nicely and will do their job.

[DreamInRotary]

I finally found the pesky coolant leak! You'd have to scroll all the way back to the top of this thread...good luck and I'm sorry

I picked at this spot a little bit but there was already a tear in the outer sleeve of the hose here.


Comparison of the old hose versus what the new hose looks like, this must be the original for sure.


Just absolutely nasty in my opinion.


I'm actually quite impressed that it didn't burst!


Here you can see the two new hoses on the oil cooler side of the lower pipe:


Blurry closeup of the same thing.


Now this was a pain!


If you look at the manual, this hose doesn't exist. So I made a hose from O'Reilly work, just a simple 90 degree bent hose and cut it to fit. Should work just fine in this instance. I'm surprised that I couldn't find this hose anywhere, was driving me nuts! It's like a missing link or hose from the manual for the Allroad or something.

[DreamInRotary]

I scored this vent gauge pod on eBay with a PODI boost gauge that I'll probably use on another car eventually.
It's a Block8head single gauge pod for the defrost vent in the C5 chassis. Here is his Facebook Page: Block8head Custom vent pod


I'm pretty sure it's an old version of the gauge pod, his new stuff looks a lot cleaner than this one:


New gauge installed in the pod.






Here you can see where the boost gauge comes past the splash wall and into the firewall.


The little rubber plug that I pushed the hose through, should work well and not interfere with anything.


Here's where it comes through the firewall using that plug, worked perfectly.


Original defrost vent in the car:


Removed the defrost vent and drilled a hose for the wiring to go through the vent piping.


I spliced the wiring for the gauge into the headlight switch wiring, you can get everything you need from these wires easily enough.


Looks pretty good all installed in the car!


Gauge startup GIF:
https://imgur.com/3v3huEX

Zoomed in on the boost gauge startup GIF:
https://imgur.com/3v3huEX

[DreamInRotary]

Here are the fluids that I'm going to be running in the Allroad for the foreseeable future explained in detail. This info is only applicable for this car (Audi Allroad 2.7t Twin Turbo V6 30v with 6 speed manual transmission).

From front to back of the car, as I found in filling each of these fluids:
Coolant Capacity: 2 gallons
Power Steering Capacity: 12 ounces
Oil Capacity: 7 quarts
Brake Fluid Capacity: 12 ounces
Transmission Capacity: 3 quarts
Rear Differential Capacity: 1.5 quarts

\/ BEFORE YOU TEAR INTO ME FOR AMSOIL PLEASE READ BELOW \/
I'm not a die-hard seller or dealer of Amsoil products. I got into them about a year and a half ago and have been running their stuff in my vehicles since then. I've found that I like how they perform and have nothing against how they interact with my vehicles. I used to work at Valvoline and have used their oils for years in my vehicles as well. My mom has an Impala with 320,000 miles on it solely running on Valvoline Maxlife oil. I have also used Mobil-1 oils with great success in the past too. It's just that this time I had the means and ability to swap out all of the fluids in this car to Amsoil and I figured I'd give it a shot. So don't berate me with how I'm trying to sell people on Amsoil products or am stuck up about my fluid preferences. It gets really old







From left to right in the pictures:
AMSOIL Heavy-Duty Antifreeze & Coolant
AMSOIL Dominator® Coolant Boost
AMSOIL Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Power Steering Fluid
AMSOIL DOMINATOR DOT 4 Synthetic Racing Brake Fluid
AMSOIL European Car Formula 5W-40 Improved ESP Synthetic Motor Oil
AMSOIL Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90
AMSOIL 75W-90 Long Life Synthetic Gear Lube

[DreamInRotary]

Once I had all the fluids in the car it was time for the first startup of the build! I was so nervous I almost couldn't handle it.

Picture once everything was put back together enough to be able to have a startup.


Then this happened.............


To me it sounds like the starter is dragging on the flywheel. Any other guesses?