...and thats all she wrote ....

[Theiceman]

Tough for him touring in an s4
This failure is actually very common. I was lucky it did this as he was stopping the car. So no head damage.
I only paid 3500 for the whole car so 3600 to fix would be unmanageable for me


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[Solarsuplex]

Tough for him touring in an s4
This failure is actually very common. I was lucky it did this as he was stopping the car. So no head damage.
I only paid 3500 for the whole car so 3600 to fix would be unmanageable for me


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Could report it totaled to insurance and then buy it back and repair... If its only worth a few grand at that point anyway. Trade the clean title for a couple bucks towards the repair. haha

[Theiceman]

Ummmm no, you cant claim an old broken down car on insurance, besides, not worth a claim anyway.


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[Theiceman]

Car is up and running once more. !! Lets see if my son can get it to april When he graduates

After that he will get a job and can buy what he wants. Im just so glad i read this forum regularly and talk about it with my son.
It is ingrained in him to kill the engine immediately if he sees that oil pressure light come on.
And it paid off


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[Brillo]

The iceman - I must have missed something. What was the latest problem and fix? Brillo

[Theiceman]

Ohh no problem. About half an hour after i put him back on the road after the repair and oil change the crank position sensor died !! I mean seriously ?? What are the odds !!!


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[Theiceman]

As I do with any major project I do on this car I like to keep you guys updated on any follow up and fall out.

After I did all the work on the tensioner, as stated earlier the car dies half an hour later .. turned out to be an unrelated failure of the CPS. Got a Bosch one at a good deal and slapped her in.

Since then I have not had any complaints from my test driver ( son ), engine does not sound like a diesel so much and no lights on. . So two weeks in early indications are that the repair was solid. !!!

as always if you have any questions about this project, feel free to place them here so we can all learn.

Cheers

[Brillo]

Thanks for the update an glad to hear your diligent efforts have paid off. I'm sure many of us learned a lot from this one. Fingers crossed! Brillo

[pezgoon]

As I do with any major project I do on this car I like to keep you guys updated on any follow up and fall out.

After I did all the work on the tensioner as stated earlier the car dies half an hour later .. rurned out to be an unrelated failure of the CPS. Got a Bosch one at a good deal and slapped her in.

Since then I have not had any complaints from my test driver, engine does not sound like a diesel so much and no lights on. . So two weeks in early indications are that the repair was solid. !!!

as always if you have any questions here about this project feel free to place them here so we can all learn.

Cheers

If you want I can look up the listed method for timing from the factory manual, it does list more than just using the tool and I believe it was the method you listed but if you want the pictures from the fsm it may help and I can go looking.


Good to see it was a success! That was damn lucky!


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[Theiceman]

If you want I can look up the listed method for timing from the factory manual, it does list more than just using the tool and I believe it was the method you listed but if you want the pictures from the fsm it may help and I can go looking.


Good to see it was a success! That was damn lucky!




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Eric

If you are not violating any copyright you could post them here and help build a solid thread for this work in the future. yeah lucky doesn't even come close.. I think my son calls the car "10 lives"

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for the update an glad to hear your diligent efforts have paid off. I'm sure many of us learned a lot from this one. Fingers crossed! Brillo

for sure ..

[pezgoon]

Eric

If you are not violating any copyright you could post them here and help build a solid thread for this work in the future. yeah lucky doesn't even come close.. I think my son calls the car "10 lives"

- - - Updated - - -



for sure ..

Haha welllllll shhh lol. I’m pretty sure they’d be more upset with the dude I bought it from on eBay than with me ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ the police haven’t come after me yet for what I’ve posted in the past

I’ll take a look when I get a chance and dig it up and post it, I know I had posted it in another thread or sent it to someone awhile ago and it’s pretty much the same procedure as to what you described even using the cam locking tool.


Also the question had been asked earlier whether the pistons and valves can collide if you are the tiny bit off and the answer is yes it’s possible, normally not for only a half tooth but I remember someone had used the locking tool and they started the car without turning the engine by hand and it mashed their valves so moral is always turn it by hand

I believe they were a whole tooth off though even with the locking tool

I believe the fsm lists measurement specs to verify if it’s at tdc or something, I’ll take a look when I can


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[bluetz]

So 20 teeth from the intake cam to the exhaust? If that is the case then it looks like when the cam lobe hits the #1 cyl intake valve the cyl #3 exhaust lobe is slightly delayed approximately 1 tooth.

[Theiceman]

So 20 teeth from the intake cam to the exhaust? If that is the case then it looks like when the cam lobe hits the #1 cyl intake valve the cyl #3 exhaust lobe is slightly delayed approximately 1 tooth.

unknown as the cyl three is not really used for anything for reference. Follow the steps in the thread and forget about cyl 3. use the teeth count and the back lobes of cylinder 4 if your teeth count is correct they will be perfectly symmetrical.

its on you to make sure the BELT is aligned correctly though

[A4B7Avant]

Hmmm... deja vu.

[funkypterodacty]

assembly lube on the cam lobes all ready for the cover.

When installing the cams back into the head is the assembly lube on the lobes required, as you've done?

[Theiceman]

When installing the cams back into the head is the assembly lube on the lobes required, as you've done?

Not absolutely but i had some lube so used it as an extra precaution.
Just crank the engine for 30 seconds 2 or three times with coils disconnected giving a couple minutes in between for the starter to cool and you will be fine.
Once oil pressure is primed you are good to go


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[Theiceman]

Bump for lumberwood


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[Leozbian]

Hey Iceman, I see in thread some said manually turning engine or cranking with starter? Is there a special way to do it because I was just going to crank with key in ignition after all of this

[Theiceman]

Yes put socket on crank bolt and turn engine clockwise.
You want to make sure there is no interference before hitting it with starter. Need 4 crank revolutions to be 100 percent


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[Theiceman]

Bumped for timing chain alignment info


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[Theiceman]

bumped for review. I may as well provide an update while here...

It has been 18 months since this repair and car is still running strong. had the usual failures along with way ( water pump , OFH leaking ) but overall for a car with 200K miles i think she is doing okay .... exhaust is about to fall off next.

[EvolutionArmory]

The 200k hump hurts the wallet the worst...

Not only do you have the usual stuff that breaks but now you also get the unusual stuff that breaks too 🤣🤣

[Theiceman]

The 200k hump hurts the wallet the worst...

Not only do you have the usual stuff that breaks but now you also get the unusual stuff that breaks too 🤣🤣

and dont forget the usual stuff that breaks is starting to break all over again...

[IronAudi]

bumped for review. I may as well provide an update while here...

It has been 18 months since this repair and car is still running strong. had the usual failures along with way ( water pump , OFH leaking ) but overall for a car with 200K miles i think she is doing okay .... exhaust is about to fall off next.

My exhaust feel off at 130k, I cant wait to see whats falling off in 70k more miles

[Theiceman]

My exhaust feel off at 130k, I cant wait to see whats falling off in 70k more miles

start hitting the gym for that exhaust cam bolt :)

[aviator79]

update...
...

now I have to get the three cam adjuster seals and put a helicoil in a stripped out bolt hole for my vacuum pump , its the ground one so kind of important..

Will update again when its time to do the ultimate test

Forgot to hook these up. Good thing its easy to access now that all back together...

Can see the bolt to pump holds bracket I was about to install which grounds hook to. (EDIT, no, the bracket I was about to install is not this bracket. One I was about to install goes by HPFP with ball for engine cover socket. /edit)

I may just hook wires to block as my engine cover doesnt stay on anyways:



Anyone know what these grounds are for? Car ran without them hooked up. Maybe alternator?

edit,
I see there is a bracket back there that has hole for wire nub. Looks to mount to camshaft cover but you say hole for vac pump holds grounds. Not sure if I installed this bracket. Nope did not. I see, bracket is bolted where the bottom DS bolt holds vac pump to housing where vac pump has U sticking out. Found bracket. Should not be too hard to install. This is what happens when I take 2 months to put car back together...

[Theiceman]

That bracket is a pita.
Check some pics on net. Make sure bracket is oriented correctly and dead flat. That's how I stripped it out.

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[soje]

I know this thread is old, but I'm looking for some help with the subject. My cam adjuster indexing pin was sheared off as well. Do you (OP) have a pic of the pin with the bearing retainer? I'm trying to understand how it works.

[Theiceman]

Il check but I dont think so. Bearing retainer is just a fluid. Basically green loctite. Then you just drill out the old pin. Drop a piece of a drill bit in to act as a new pin and lo tight it in place.
Pin basically does nothing beyond alignment while you tighten down phaser bolt.
Il see if I have a pic.

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[blakefife]

Il check but I dont think so. Bearing retainer is just a fluid. Basically green loctite. Then you just drill out the old pin. Drop a piece of a drill bit in to act as a new pin and lo tight it in place.
Pin basically does nothing beyond alignment while you tighten down phaser bolt.
Il see if I have a pic.

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uh yeah that tiny pin is meant to be removed after the tensioner has been installed and chain configured and timed properly or else your tensioner wont tension with oil pressure...........


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[Theiceman]

uh yeah that tiny pin is meant to be removed after the tensioner has been installed and chain configured and timed properly or else your tensioner wont tension with oil pressure...........


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Um that is Totally wrong !!! He is talking about the alignment pin in the cam phaser. That attaches to the exhaust cam. Not the tensioner retainer.

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[soje]

Mine is from a B6 Passat. I have some interesting pics. The cam phaser/adjuster on mine has a hole on one side and "had" the pin on the other side. I took a pic of the end of the cam too. I can't tell if the pin is still in the slot or not in the pic.


Take a look at the link positions in relation to the indexing marks. Yikes, That's the exact position the chain was arranged, when I pulled the phaser off of the cam. If this is the first time it's been opened since it was built, then the chain has probably skipped some teeth. I wonder if the off colored link is just for a visual point to install and count from. If so, I suppose someone could have just done all the counting without using the colored link.

[IMG] [/IMG]

[soje]

I think I can get it from your info. I'm surprised loctite has held up since your original post. In my pic, it looks like the pin was originally set >1 mm deep into the plate, but the hole opposite to it is quit deep. Not all of the phasers I see have the second hole.

I'm happy it worked for you, as we've both seen the cost for a OEM or equivalent cam phaser. I don't know if I would have faith in one of the ebay parts that costs $75.00. Sometimes parts cost a lot because they're costly to manufacture, then sometimes they're expensive because the have a car companies name stamped on them.

[Theiceman]

Mine is from a B6 Passat. I have some interesting pics. The cam phaser/adjuster on mine has a hole on one side and "had" the pin on the other side. I took a pic of the end of the cam too. I can't tell if the pin is still in the slot or not in the pic.


Take a look at the link positions in relation to the indexing marks. Yikes, That's the exact position the chain was arranged, when I pulled the phaser off of the cam. If this is the first time it's been opened since it was built, then the chain has probably skipped some teeth. I wonder if the off colored link is just for a visual point to install and count from. If so, I suppose someone could have just done all the counting without using the colored link.

[IMG] [/IMG]

You are exactly correct. The coloured link is only a guide used for Install. After that it means nothing.
Yes your pin sheared as mine did. The good news is the pin is soft and can be drilled out.
I would rather use a Audi repaired one than a Chinese new one.
The loctight is really to hold the pin in just for installation. Once you tighten down that adjuster bolt the pin is jammed pretty good in that adjuster and isnt going anywhere.
I have not had the timing cover off since I did this job but I'm betting it's still there. The only way It is falling out is if that phaser bolt comes loose and the loctite fails.
Anyone who has done this job knows that phaser bolt is not coming loose.


.

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[soje]

Thanks iceman. One last question, if I may. I want to replace the chain, tensioner, and adjuster seals. Are the $30.00 chain and adjuster kits that are on Amazon and ebay safe to buy, or should I spend more for something from a reputable parts site? Dos anyone recommend a site to buy these parts?

Thanks for any help

[Theiceman]

If its inside the engine I go Audi OE all the way.
I get mine at audipartsonline.com or some other variation of that name. Cant remember right now.

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[aviator79]

Thanks iceman. One last question, if I may. I want to replace the chain, tensioner, and adjuster seals. Are the $30.00 chain and adjuster kits that are on Amazon and ebay safe to buy, or should I spend more for something from a reputable parts site? Dos anyone recommend a site to buy these parts?

Thanks for any help

I bought two kits off amazon to inspect and took pics to post but ran out of space to post on here.

I ordered the Bapmic and SHINEHOME. Both looked ok but I would not use as the plastic guides are usually what fail and the quality of the plastic on these may not be as good. I was going to return but forgot to.

[Theiceman]

my repaired Phaser for those who asked..

[soje]

Update


Sheared Pin removed from cam adjuster ( 5/32 ) drill bit piece going in with bearing retainer to replace pin. New poly bolt on the way. Set chain with marks for cam alignment. I dont trust the tool

I need the three rings for inside the adjuster as they broke. Oh well

So what are the collective thoughts on me turning it over with no timing cover to do a compression check ?
I would obviously have to pop the fuel pump fuse or disable it as there is no hpfp attached
Thoughts ?

I just want to verify no bent valves before continuing on


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How could you tell the rings were broken? I don't see anything that makes me think mine are broke.

[Theiceman]

The rings were broken that control the timing advance. They sit on the timing cover and slide inside the phaser..

Post #29 you can sort of see the rings on the timing cover.

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