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  1. #41
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 23 2016
    AZ Member #
    373689
    Location
    Edmond, OK

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    dammit man sucks to hear. I was worried about the 2 vac lines that come from below the back of the IM that go into that T at the top of the neck (in that same area where the evap checkvalve is). With all the removal and installing of the IM you've been doing, I would check into the bottom of those (since mainly the pass side one gets snagged easy against the IM during the removal/ install process.
    07 A6 3.2- Out & In- Morimoto 5500k & Nokya 2500k, DeAutoLED Reverse, LP, & Footwells, Ziza Full Interior, 10" lo-pro Pioneer, Audi Aluminum Pedals
    Drivetrain & Suspension- Stoptech X-Drilled & Sport Pads, ST X-Coilovers, Hacked Airbox with aFe, Resonator Delete

    "What is best in life? -Kill your enemies. See them driven before you. And hear the lamentation of their women" Conan the Barbarian

  2. #42
    Veteran Member Four Rings JPJ2007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 15 2009
    AZ Member #
    41259
    Location
    Middle TN

    Checked all vacuum lines and even replaced anything original like the hard lines going to the intake runner valve systems.

    The only two I couldn't trace went under each side of the car into the unknown abyss covered by he large plastic tray underneath the car... So no clue about those...

    I've traced it down to the purge valve. when I remove the vac line and it sucks in open air the car doesnt die...
    so I rigged it to test it. Put a tiny T on it allowing it to suck in outside air when coming to a stop but still sort of be connected to the purge valve while driving.

    It seems to have fixed the problem. So now I gotta figure out whats going on. I'll order a 3rd purge valve since it's only $12. But I just have no clue if theres an underlying problem somewhere...

    Certainly frustrating. Been dealing with a dying car at idle/stops for like what a month now? Im just so busy I havent had time.

    So.... Ordering new purge valve and going to see what happens.

    Does anyone know how that works? Does it open at idle allowing air in so it doesn't die or is my problem something else?


    Also found an oil leak under the intake manifold. LOL Got the coolant one fixed, now theres an oil leak. I assume it's from the PCV box/hoses. Since I already replaced all 4 solenoid orings and non of then have
    oil around them anymore. Yay! Atleast a few things got fixed.

    I just want another 10K out of this motor! haha. Just wanna break 250k on original chains/guides etc....

    I'm so very tempted to look at a 4.2 swap. Motor, Engine Wiring harness and ECU should be all I need. We'll figure that out when the day comes, just interesting think about. lol
    2006 A6 3.2L Quattro S-Line (got my baby back)

  3. #43
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 23 2016
    AZ Member #
    373689
    Location
    Edmond, OK

    Disclaimer- The following rambling is my brainstorming turning into typing as I think it. They may or may not be right lolol

    Damn what a tricky little effer! Well one of those lines is surely a vac reference line going back to the gas tank's purge solenoid (there should be a second one there as well). Hmmm, I wonder if this is the one giving you the problem. It certainly would explain why you're going on to your 3rd purge solenoid with mostly new lines and the problem continues. But at this point I do not recall if Audi has 1 code for both purge solenoids or each has its own. Might be something worth investigating.

    Side note here- I know our cars have as part of our evap/ vac system a vacuum test pump with it's own little air filter hidden behind one of the inner fender liners. I know this is often a forgotten piece of maintenance (I certainly have not touched mine lol). I have not looked at a vacuum diagram for our cars so I do not know if this little sucker going bad could cause your problem or not.

    Do you have access to a vagcom? Idle is controlled by the eTB. I wonder if doing a throttle re-learn procedure would fix this? But if something were wrong beyond operating parameters, it should throw a throttle trouble code, which you do not have. I know that with ubber dianostic tools like a Snap-On pro-something, you can go into individual components and test them by turning them on or off. I wonder if vagcom has this same capability. This feature would be very helpful to you. It was for me when I had a Caddy SRX. Same symptoms as you and I got a code for evap purge solenoid. With my friend's Snap-On tool we were able to turn on/ off the 2 purge valves to diagnose which one gave the issue. Replaced it and problem fixed forever.

    Oil Leak- Dammit lolol. Besides the PCV box/ lines down there, the only other thing that COULD drip oil in the valley is the "newly discovered by GT-ER" cylinder head girdle gaskets. But I would suspect that these would tend to also sweat around their perimeter and drip on to the heat shields like bad VC gaskets do.

    What think you??
    07 A6 3.2- Out & In- Morimoto 5500k & Nokya 2500k, DeAutoLED Reverse, LP, & Footwells, Ziza Full Interior, 10" lo-pro Pioneer, Audi Aluminum Pedals
    Drivetrain & Suspension- Stoptech X-Drilled & Sport Pads, ST X-Coilovers, Hacked Airbox with aFe, Resonator Delete

    "What is best in life? -Kill your enemies. See them driven before you. And hear the lamentation of their women" Conan the Barbarian

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