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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Andy's 2.8 Supercharger Build Thread

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    The Story Behind The Build:

    I've decided I'm going to try and keep track of all my progress throughout this little supercharger project incase anyone might find this information useful. Pretty much what's going on here is I have an old 98 B5 wagon that's a piece of junk. The clutch went out in November 2017 and I decided to buy another parts B5 that had a PES G2 supercharger on it so that I can do more than just replace the OEM clutch. When I first started this thread I had just pulled the supercharger off my parts car that supposedly had a bad motor, but found out that the motor was perfectly fine, but the supercharger was fully seized. I decided that the supercharger was beyond repair and someone at a shop that builds drag racers said there was nothing they could do about the supercharger and that it would probably never make boost again. So this project kind of died and I never came back to it... Well when this semester finished I decided with the little extra time I had, I would attempt to give this supercharger another try. It took days and days of work, but I now have the supercharger fully rebuilt and assembled and it spins freely. Whether it will build boost is a good question, but I'm updating this thread because the build is back on! I'm going to organize this thread so that the first post contains the information about the car, supercharger, supporting parts, and how I rebuilt the supercharger. The second post will keep track of everything that happens during the motor pull, detailed descriptions of upgrades I make and all the custom stuff that will be happening. I will continue to update the first two posts so that all the DIY information in this build is kept at the front so it's easy for people to find all the information when they stumble upon this years from now. So lets get to it!

    The Car:

    The beater ass car that's getting the supercharger is my pearl white, 98 B5 A4 2.8 Avant. This car has somewhere around 186,000 miles, the original clutch went out in November when I let my dad borrow the car one day, 8 months ago from the time I'm updating this post... I'm surprised the clutch lasted as long as it did. The motor is in really good shape, it runs super smooth and doesn't burn a drop of oil. I've already done all the timing on this car and replaced almost every gasket so the motor won't need too much work. Here's some pictures of the car, it will make a good sleeper lol






    The Supercharger and Parts List:

    -The supercharger that's going on the car is an Eaton Magnuson MP62 Gen 4 blower from a PES G2 kit. It has a downsized 2.8" pulley, Bosch 300 cc injectors, a PES tuned ECU (supposedly), and all the hardware and brackets to go along. It's been rebuilt with new needle bearings, bypass valve bearings, and an upgraded coupler (the rebuild will be covered below).
    -A TTV 2.7 S4 single mass steel flywheel will be going on with an OEM B7 RS4 clutch kit.
    -The car will be getting an 01E 6-speed drivetrain swap. The trans will be getting torn down completely and have any necessary parts replaced along with all new seals. The rear diff will be getting all new seals. The driveshaft will be getting rebuilt with a new center bearing and a new CV joint. The front axles will be getting new boots.
    -AEM 320 LPH high flow fuel pump (E85 compatible)
    -AEM X-Series Wideband gauge and Glow Shift boost gauge
    -Customized XS-Power B6 3.0 downpipes to fit a 2.8
    -Custom Silicone PCV System
    -Random gaskets and stuff on the engine
    -A few interior pieces will be updated
    -New front control arms
    -Oh and the frame will be getting repaired... more on that later lol

    This thread will cover all the steps I make to install all this stuff on the car... A lot of this stuff will require some custom work so I'll try and be detailed on how I DIY it.

    Rebuilding the Supercharger:

    When I first removed the supercharger it was seized and I found out that it had spun one of the needle bearings. The thing was pretty beat up. The rotors and housing were gouged pretty bad and the bearings were pretty stuck in the housing.


    I first tried to pull the bearings out from the bottom of the housing, but the bearing puller kept punching out the lip of the bearing and wouldn't move it. I decided to drill holes through the back of the supercharger and punch the bearings out from behind. For one bearing I was able to get away with a 5/16" hole and punched it out with a 1/4" extension. For the bearing that was seized, I tried punching it out with the same extension, but it just punched a hole through the bottom of the bearing. I ended up drilling out the hole in the supercharger to 3/4" and using a 13mm socket on an extension so i could press the bearing out with the force on the outer most shell of the bearing.




    Since there was so much shredded metal in the housing I decided that I would need to change the bypass valve bearings and rinse out the whole housing. To remove these bearings I made myself a tool by cutting and welding two 1/4" x 6" extensions together so I had a long skinny extension.


    One of the bearings has a closed cap and the other one is completely open.



    I started by running my tool through the open bearing all the way through the housing and pushing out the closed cap bearing. With that bearing removed I then pressed a bit through the little opening in the bypass valve slot and using the extension, I pushed the bit up against the open bearing (since the bit was barely wider than the open bearing) and pressed that bearing out.


    (All the bearings removed, notice that nasty looking spun needle bearing)


    Now I could work on cleaning out the housing. I used a couple 1" sanding disks on a long extension on my drill to smooth out the bottom flat part of the housing that got scored when the bearing spun. I couldn't get it 100%, but it's smooth enough now that the rotor won't catch on anything. I then honed the housing with a scuffing ball to smooth it out the best I could.


    Next was cleaning up the rotors, which were scored and gouged pretty bad. I used a 220 grit sanding disk on an orbital power sander and cleaned up all the rough surfaces. Anything I couldn't reach with the power sander I did by hand. I also had to use strips of 800 grit paper to clean the shaft surface that spins in the bearing since it was pitted and scuffed pretty bad. I think I finished that surface off with 2,000 grit to get it really smooth. There's still some pitting, but it's deep enough to the point where I can't remove that much material to still make it work. I don't think that pitting will cause any issues, I just want it to have a smooth surface.





    Now I could finally clean and blow out all the metal particles so I could paint the supercharger to spice it up a bit and then press the new bearings in. I also soaked the supercharger manifold while I was at it.


    Painting the different parts



    Now I assembled the supercharger. I used red anaerobic Permatex to seal all the surfaces and I torqued the bolts in the front and back of the supercharger to 175 in-lb or 14~15 ft-lb. I also upgraded my coupler to the fancy green ones that are supposed to be stronger. I had to use some 2,000 grit sand paper to de-bur some of the edges of the new coupler. I also filled in the holes I previously drilled out with JB-weld.






    And the finished product:



    So I also modified my intake manifold to fit a stock intake air temp sensor so I can see post supercharger temps. I would recommend not doing this unless you're going to do an aftermarket air temp sensor. The stock air temp sensor has a range of 174 ºF and I calculated that my post blower temps can reach upwards of 250 ºF at redline. Even after doing a couple pulls and then switching to my hot side temp sensor, it was still maxing out the sensor range at 174º just idling and the car would run really rough with this sensor connected. So just stick to your stock pre-throttle temp sensor and if you really want to know post supercharger temps then maybe do what I did, but with an aftermarket kit.


    I also heat wrapped the underside of my manifold to help keep temps down a bit.
    Last edited by b7_Andy; 01-28-2019 at 12:46 AM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Installing the Fuel Pump:

    I had too many pictures for this one post so instead of posting them all in this thread, here is a link to my DIY fuel pump install: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...l-Pump-Install

    The 01E 6-Speed Swap and Clutch and Flywheel Upgrade:

    I originally was planning on keeping my stock 01A transmission and rebuilding it, but I had a friend offer me a trade for some drivetrain parts so I ended up going down the 01E swap route. I wanted a 6-speed and the higher top speed (hopefully) and this transmission should be plenty strong to handle any kind of power this car will make.

    Here is the list of parts you will need for this swap:

    -01E 6-speed transmission from a B5 S4. A C5 A6 01E should work fine too, but if you get an 01E from any Allroad you will have shorter gearing (4.375 final drive instead of 4.11) and transmission cooling lines you will have to find something to do with. It can still work, but just be cautious of those 2 things.
    -01E transmission mount brackets (the bracket that bolts to the transmission housing).
    -01E shift linkage: You will need the 2 long shift rods and the crossover rod. I got the entire shifter assembly with rods, shifter, shifter box/housing, knob and everything with mine so I will be using all of that. You will want an 01E shifter, but you should be able to reuse the shift box/housing, shift boot and either knob. I am replacing all the shifter components though.
    -01E B5 S4 manual front axles.
    -01E B5 S4 manual driveshaft.
    -01E B5 S4 manual rear diff. If you choose to keep your stock rear axles, you will want to swap your rear diff axle flanges from your A4 diff onto your S4 diff. The inner flange on the cv axle is different on the S4 and A4. So your 2 options are to either swap the S4 rear diff with S4 axles, or swap the S4 diff with A4 axle flanges in the diff and then reuse your rear axles (this is what I did). An 01E rear diff from and A6 or Allroad will not work.
    -Clutch options: The kind of clutch setup you go with will determine what bell housing spacer you use. A lot of people are confused on whether that spacer goes with the engine or transmission... That bell housing spacer goes with the clutch setup you use, on any Audi. The input shaft protrusion on all Audi manual transmissions is the same, and the spacing between the crankshaft and the back of the block is the same on similar engines (from example a 1.8 vs a 2.0, or a 2.8 vs a 2.7 vs a 3.0). So this means that you want to use the bell housing spacer from whichever model Audi you're using the clutch from. I'm choosing to go with a 2.7 TTV single mass steel flywheel specifically setup for a B7 RS4 clutch (I'll be using a stock B7 RS4 clutch, this setup should be able to hold 350 tq no problem). All in all this is a 2.7 B5 S4 setup, so I will be using a 2.7 bell housing spacer. The 2.7 and 2.8 have the same crankshaft (even the 3.0 has the same rear crankshaft flange) so you can use any flywheel and clutch you want between these 3 motors. I could have kept my stock 2.8 clutch setup or upgraded to an aftermarket 2.8 clutch if I wanted to. My flywheel and clutch cost me $590 and it will feel like a stock clutch yet hold a pretty good amount of torque. It's probably the cheapest setup you can find that's still quality and I don't think I could get a 2.8 flywheel and clutch on this same level. One last thing to keep in mind is if you're keeping your stock A4 or 2.8 transmission and you go with a 2.7 clutch and bell housing spacer, your transmission will be moved 11 mm further back because of the spacer so you will want your engine and trans sitting as far forward in the mounts so that the driveshaft has enough room. Also if you're using an 01E trans with a 2.8 or 1.8 clutch setup, you will not have that bell housing spacer so that transmission will be sitting 11mm further forward. In this case try and set the engine and trans as far back as you can to fill in that gap where the driveshaft mounts. I will be using a 2.7 clutch, trans, and driveshaft so everything should line up exactly as it should.
    -There's minimal wiring modifications you need to make if you're swapping from manual 5-speed to manual 6-speed. The crank position sensor is the same, and the wheel speed sensor is the same. The reverse light switch is the only thing that’s different and the only thing you’ll have to rewire. The cool part about it is the wire colors are the same on both a 5-speed and a 6-speed. So just make sure you have the connector pigtail for an 01E, and just cut the connector off the end of the 01A harness and solder the two wires to the new 01E connector. The wire colors are the same so you’re simply just attaching the 01E connector to the end of the 01A harness in place of the old connector.

    For my swap I decided to rebuild every single drivetrain part just because I want this to last a long time. I'll explain how I rebuilt everything in detail, except the trans since JHM has a very detailed video on the 01E rebuild already.

    Rebuilding the rear diff:

    This is just a shaft seal rebuild, I did not modify the differential or replace any gears or bearings.
    This DIY is assuming you have the differential out of the car and the fluid is drained. You can technically change all these seal with the diff in the car, but if you're changing all 3 I would recommend pulling the diff. If you're just replacing the pinion seal on the driveshaft side, keep the diff in the car, it's actually really easy to change without pulling the diff if need be.

    I started by replacing the 2 axle flange seals. The axle flange cups can be removed with a 6mm allen or hex key. It’s just that one bolt in the middle that holds them. You can use an impact hammer or thread two axle flange bolts in and block them with a breaker bar or something to keep the flange from spinning while you loosen the bolt.

    Pull the axle flange out and the seal is right there. Pull the seal out, it shouldn't be too tight, you can either use a slide hammer and pull on the lip of it or pry it out with a flat head screw driver. Install the new seal and make sure it is seated evenly the whole way around, you don't want it crooked. On one side of the diff you can hammer the seal all the way in until it seats against a machined lip in the diff that will seat it perfectly, but on the other side if you hit the seal too far in it can fall into the diff. On this side you want to work very slowly and make sure that it's seated right when you're finished tapping it. It should be recessed about 8-10mm from the outside edge of the diff housing.

    Once the seal is installed, bolt the axle flange back on and torque that 6mm allen bolt to 18 ft-lb. Now those two seals are done.

    The pinion seal requires you to pull the front half of the diff housing off. Unbolt the four 8mm allen bolts that hold these two housing pieces together.

    Pull the long skinny part of the housing off and there is a coupler that will have either stayed on the bigger diff side (in which case you don't have to do anything) or it will have stayed on the splined shaft that's on the long skinny side (most likely). In this case use a small 2 jaw gear puller to pull the coupler off the splined shaft.


    Now you'll want to remove the plug on the end of that diff housing piece near the driveshaft flange. Remove the snap ring that secures it and thread an M8x1.25 bolt into the plastic plug (a driveshaft flange bolt works fine) and use it to pull the plug out.


    Now you can see inside the housing and on the end of the shaft there’s a snap ring in there that has to be removed. This is a tricky one and you'll definitely want a decent set of snap ring pliers to get at it. Unlock it and just move it up the shaft a little bit. It will be slid all the way off the end of the shaft as the shaft gets pressed out.

    Once that snap ring is unlocked, set up your diff housing in your press like this and press the shaft out the end of it to remove it. Catch that snap ring when the shaft is fully removed.

    You'll notice that I have my bearing press sitting on an 8" steel pipe while I'm pressing the shaft out. I bought that 8" diameter x 12" depth pipe for rebuilding transmissions and diffs and it comes in real handy if you're pressing large items that can't fit between the gap on the shelf of your press. Depending on the type of press you have, you can probably do this step without it, but if you use your press to rebuild a ton of stuff like transmission etc. I'd recommend getting a similar size pipe. I think I paid like $16 from a pipe yard for mine.
    Anyway now you can finally replace the seal on the end of the diff housing. Be careful when installing the new seal because it's really tight and this seal can bend easily if it's not installed straight. I also like to use transmission assembly lube on the new seals and around that spring to keep the spring from falling out when hammering the seal back in.

    When you're reinstalling the shaft, put the snap ring on the end of it before you slide it in so that the snap ring slides all the way back down the shaft so that you can re-lock it. Pressing the shaft back into the housing is easier than removing it on the press. Reinstall everything and torque those 8mm allen bolts to 33 ft-lb.

    Another thing I did is make some poor-man upgraded diff mounts. I filled all my stock rubber mounts with 3M black window weld. I had a lot of diff slop before so I'm interested to see how these work for a little $25 upgrade.



    I believe the rear diff takes about 1.9 liters of fluid. I like to use the genuine Audi gear oil.
    Torque specs:
    Rear cross member to frame M12 bolts: 70 ft-lb
    Rear cross member to diff 8mm allen bolts: 33 ft-lb
    Front mount to diff 8mm allen bolts: 33 ft-lb
    Front mount crossmember to chassis T50 torx bolts: 30 ft-lb. T45 torx bolts: 17 ft-lb.

    The Transmission:

    Since JHM has a really good video on rebuilding an 01E, I'm going to save a few pages of this thread by not writing a DIY, but I'll explain what I did and will put a few pictures up. After fully disassembling this trans I found that it's in really good shape. The 1-2 collar looks like it's brand new, I've never seen an OEM one this good. So all I did was replace the synchros with some spare OEM Audi ones that I have that are in a little bit better shape. I also replaced the brass 4th gear syncrho with an OEM Moly-coated one. I replaced every shaft seal on the transmissions so I won't have to worry about leaks for a while. I also am modifying the center diff to be a 55:45 rear split. There's 2 teflon-coated washers that get replaced with steel ones to make it 60:40, but no one on the forums sell these washers anymore so I was only able to get ahold of one washer to replace. This will make the diff a 3:1 55:45 split which will still be fun. Here's some pics of the process, I painted the parts of the transmission housing that were rusting and nasty-looking.






    As far as rebuilding the front axles, I just replaced the boots and re-greased them. The process isn't too tricky, it's just messy as hell. There's a lot of write ups out there, but you just remove the snap rings on the inner flanges, pull the cv joint off, clean and replace the boot, put everything back together. For the outer boots there’s no snap ring so you just set the joint on the press, use an extension or something to push the shaft out through the axle bolt threaded hole and then you can replace the boot and press the joint back on.

    Rebuilding the Driveshaft:

    I can only put so many pictures in this thread so here is the link to my DIY Driveshaft rebuild thread. Pretty much I replaced the center u-joint and support bearing and freshened up the CVs. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...eshaft-Rebuild

    Custom 2.8 Downpipes:

    This ended up being a ton of work and I’m not sure if it was really worth it, but at least now I can say I have a set of custom 2.5” 2.8 downpipes lol. I started with XS-Power B6 3.0 downpipes. https://www.ebay.com/itm/XJHMS-B6-A4...xI8C:rk:2:pf:0
    The bolt pattern on the flange has a 12 mm greater diameter so first you have to re-drill the bolt pattern to be smaller. Each bolt hole has to move 6 mm closer to the center. The flange is really, really hard steel so it will take forever to redrill the pattern. The way I see it, there’s two ways to do this. The way I should have done is cutting the flanges off, redrilling the pattern on a drill press, and then welding the flanges back on. The way I did it is using a 5/16” hole saw bit, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...0507/204994401. I submerged the downpipe flange in about an inch or so of water so I’d be drilling the hole underwater the whole time and that way I wouldn’t worry about it overheating and trashing the bit. I was able to use that bit throughout the whole process without burning it doing it like this, and then I just used a standard 5/16” bit to clean up the holes when I was done. It definitely took a few hours to do this.

    If you’re like me and you don’t have a pipe bender, the next step is to cut each downpipe into 3 sections.

    Bolt the first section to the manifold and try to guess the change of angle it needs. Then cut out an angled piece of pipe, line it up with the new piece of pipe, mark it with a sharpie, pull it out and tack weld it (I didn’t have enough room to tack weld it in the car since it was on jack stands). Then reinstall it on the manifold and see if it fits. If so then you move onto the next section and do the same thing, if it doesn’t fit then you cut the tack welds and try again. I had to keep going in and out of the car, bolting and unbolting the downpipe to tack weld it and hope I welded it at the right angle since I was just guessing. You’ll want to do this part with everything installed in the car besides the axles. I first starting making the downpipes with the engine and trans outside the car and when I put it in they didn’t fit. So do all of this work with everything installed. I also used a 4 ft section of spare 2.5” exhaust pipe to make these.

    The passenger downpipe on a B5 is about 6” longer than a B6 downpipe and the driver side is about 2 ft longer so you’ll have to add that much pipe to the custom downpipes to get them to reach the catback. I had the catback installed in the car and then measured the amount of extra pipe I needed and tacked it under the car. I was using my stock catback so I reduced my downpipes to stock size. If you do this you’ll want to clamp your reducers to the catback and then tack everything so that when it’s welded it’ll line write up where it needs to. In the end I cut and welded each pipe in about 10 different places... the whole project took about 40 dreadful hours.


    I then ceramic coated the downpipes to hopefully make them last longer without corroding.


    Other things I did:

    I added an AEM Wideband AFR Gauge and a Glowshift boost gauge to the car. For the Wideband gauge I added an O2 sensor bung to the driver side downpipe right at the bottom of the downward section next to the transmission. The wiring harness they give you is pretty plug and play. I ran it behind some heatshields in the transmission tunnel and up through a hole I drilled in the ECU box and into the interior. The harness connects from the O2 sensor bung to the gauge, and then from the gauge there’s another harness that just needs to be tapped into 12V ignition controlled power and ground. For the boost gauge I ran the boost hose from a T that’s tapped into the vacuum hose coming off the fuel pressure regulator. This hose always has manifold pressure so it’s the one you want to use. I also ran this through the hole in the ECU box and then sealed the hole. For the boost gauge I tapped one wire to constant 12V, one wire into ignition controlled 12V, one wire into the headlight fuse, and one wire to a ground. I tapped all the power supply wires for my gauges using add-a-fuse kits. The boost gauge pod I bought is made by a dude on eBay and they sit in the driver side defroster vent on the dash. https://www.ebay.com/itm/B5-model-A4....c100005.m1851
    I really like having the gauges there. I just cut a hole in the air duct below the defroster vent to run all the wires through.


    Another thing I did was replace the old brittle PCV hoses with silicone ones. I ordered 5/8” ID silicone hose from eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-8-ID-Flex...S!-1:rk:1:pf:0
    You order it by the foot and I got 6 ft. I cut the plastic hoses off all the plastic connectors and elbows and then you pretty much just attach the silicone hose to the stock connectors and elbows. The 5/8” fits perfectly and it’s pretty snug so you probably don’t need hose clamps, but I installed some anyway.


    I also swapped out a lot of random interior parts including my dash… Believe me a dash is something you’ll never want to have to take out lol



    I also repaired part of my front frame rail that was warped from some previous crash before I bought the car. I cut out a section of good frame rail from my parts car a while back, measured mine, cut it, lined up the new piece and just welded it. It lines up to the core support almost perfect now and my front end actually fits haha




    And that pretty much covers the majority of the DIY stuff I did for this build. Anything extra I do will be added throughout the thread, but hopefully these first couple posts are enough to start you off in the right direction. As always feel free to ask any questions.
    Last edited by b7_Andy; 01-28-2019 at 12:22 AM.

  3. #3
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    Bump. I'm in basically the same boat. Picked up a G2, and now in the market for a tune.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Audizine mobile app

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the bump, I forgot I posted this... I literally just removed the supercharger from the junk motor about 3 minutes ago. Seems like my blower might be seized up, the pulley only goes back and forth a little bit, but can’t make a full rotation. Not sure what I’m going to do here...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    I know there are rebuilt kits for Eaton superchargers that are fairly cheap. Rebuilding one is simple too

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Audizine mobile app

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audi-Rickshaw View Post
    I know there are rebuilt kits for Eaton superchargers that are fairly cheap. Rebuilding one is simple too

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Audizine mobile app
    Ya I was just reading about that last night. It seems like the previous owner of my supercharger didn’t know that you needed to fill it up with oil, it was completely dry I’m going to open it up when I get the time and if I can fix it with new bearings then I’ll probably just get the rebuild kit and do that.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings vrmm's Avatar
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    I have jumped pretty heavily into nefmoto/tuner pro since I have a 2.7 allroad now. I used maestro when I had a b5, so me3/5 is piddly 3 parameter simple city, while nefmoto is engine melting ecu brick factory land... Idk :) I do not suggest you learn all there is about nefmoto. Personally I've learned beyond what I had with maestro except that eeprom'ed/locked down ecu's are really annoying.

    So... Find a tune on nefmoto's site for a turbo or blower and alter it. You'll get a .bin file which is the tune as a whole and an .xdf which is each parameter indie the bin. That said there's only parameters that have been added manually by some poor soul just waiting for others to steal their work.

    I am 100% willing to help you with the tuner pro side involving xdf's so you don't blow it up. I have done it enough myself with larger sized turbo's not caring one way or another. So I very well know what's even a tad bit too much(which.... I still do anyways with my baby k03's and tip) but I digress.. If there is a base to start with and you are looking to attempt self tuning I might*maybe be of some help. What's your ecu part number? I can get one and flash it if I get some more details. (not insinuating I can in anyway whip a solid tune out while knowing nothing about the car).


    I'm only offering to help due to my past with zero support builds. When I was 18 or so little shitheads on legacygt. com told me I couldn't turbo a naturally aspirated Subaru legacy wagon/I never would/wasted thread blah blah blah... Months later I was keeping up with wrx's. There is also the reality that your car can take more air and manage it with no tuning. For instance I used solely a ball &spring MBC on me3/5 for like a year and it was handling it like nothing had changed. Unless of course you hit 13-14psi+ then it would go into limp mode. Paying 3 or 400$ for a stage 1 (I think that's how much...) seemed beyond stupid and I waste money like crazy. Anyways.. I'll shut up. Hope something in that helps. I'm on my tablet and I can't type even remotely close to save my life, so hope your brain is still in one piece :)

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vrmm View Post
    I have jumped pretty heavily into nefmoto/tuner pro since I have a 2.7 allroad now.
    Hey thanks for the reply and advice. I’ve never even looked at nefmoto or Maestro and I pretty much know next to nothing about tuning... so what would you recommend as a start? Should I get the car running and do some logs with Vagcom to see how the tune is and if it needs to be improved? Would you need my ECU to tune it? Right now I’m at the point where I have to see if the supercharger is salvageable and then can get started on the build. I honestly have no idea if the stock PES tune is good or not so I thought maybe I should get everything finished and running and then decide how the tune would need to be altered. Let me know what you think. And the ECU part number is: 4D0907551AH

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    I have updated this thread. I'll be adding information to the first two posts which will contain all the organized DIY information for this thread so it can easily be found at the top. So continue to check the beginning posts for added information, I will try and reply to the thread anytime I update it. Let me know if you guys have any questions.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings vrmm's Avatar
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    It sounds like you should get it running first and log it to see what's happening. I imagine it'll be in limp mode mighty quick as it would be expecting no positive manifold pressure. Is there a map valve that was added and somehow hooked up? I guess if the pulley can only ever produce x amount of pressure then a tune could be made for that.. It could just run off of tps and idk the maf input maybe. I bought my b5 hx35 back and it kinda runs with the same principal. I pretty much only ever adjust main fuel correction. Being me3/5 which I'm assuming your ecu is, which is 256kilobytes of memory if I'm not mistaken equates to it have an amd400bb chip on it which doesn't allow many parameters as it is. There's like 15 in meastro while me7 awm has like 45 which deals with nitty gritty stuff. If there's a point behind what I'm saying I guess it's, well buy a new supercharger and move on with your life :p, and secondly the tuning situation is just something you'll have to figure when the time comes. 400bb xdf's aren't very plentiful so as a base to start it may be... Difficult. Good luck..!

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Andy's 2.8 Supercharger Build Thread

    I’m not very good with abbreviations so to be honest I’m not quite sure I know much about what you mentioned. I have a buddy that’s built tunes for older Audi’s and many other makes and he’s going to help me get a final tune in place once the car’s running. The ECU I got with the parts car should already have a PES tune so I’m hoping I’ll at least be able to drive the car around with the current tune. As far as the supercharger goes, Magnuson doesn’t make any Gen 4 MP62 blowers anymore and PES has discontinued all support for their G2 kit. There’s a couple international sellers on eBay that say they’re selling these blowers and have them listed for thousands, but most of them you can’t even get in contact with because I think their ads are so old they just forgot to take them down. In the last 8 months I’ve only seen 1 Gen 4 MP62 pop up and it was someone selling a used PES kit and it sold in a day. With all that being said it’s near impossible to source these superchargers anywhere... that’s the one thing that sucks about how old these cars have gotten. They’re to the point where some of these parts just can’t be replaced and your only choice is to try and recondition them. I don’t know if this supercharger is going to make any boost at all, but it spins free by hand so the only way I can find out is to just get the thing running. Hopefully it works, but there’s a good chance it won’t, we’ll have to wait and see!

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Just got back in town today, I definitely have my work set out for me. Hopefully I’ll be able to work on it a good amount this week, but I’ve got a few other jobs I need to take care of so we will see...

  13. #13
    Hey I’am also in the process of building a 2.8 avant with a PES supercharger. I’ve done a lot of research so if
    You got any questions don’t be afraid to PM me.


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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calderfer2665 View Post
    Hey I’am also in the process of building a 2.8 avant with a PES supercharger. I’ve done a lot of research so if
    You got any questions don’t be afraid to PM me.


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    Sweet! How far along is yours?

  15. #15
    Well the SC kit is on with the 034 5mm mani spacers. Redid the timming belt and all the gaskets I could get to with motor in. Carbon fiber drive shaft along with rear diff mounts and the ecs poly diff mount, AWS driveline stabilizer and poly snubb mount. Also track density trans and motor mounts. Just did hotchkis front and rear sway bars and Porsche BBK. I have a few ECU’s one with a PES tune and one with APR tune and an oem one with custom catless down pipes and Becker full exhaust. I also deleted a bunch of the vacuum and Solenoid junk under the hood. There’s a bunch of other stuff done and supporting mods. My main problem is I was told by numberous people I had a bad cam position sensor and I have a problem with the timming and a mysterious misfire that is not electrical I believe the timming is off one tooth and the ecu is picking it up as a misfire. So the car is running like crap. Also have a meth injection kit sitting around to get put on at sometime and a coil conversion to do.


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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calderfer2665 View Post
    Well the SC kit is on with the 034 5mm mani spacers. Redid the timming belt and all the gaskets I could get to with motor in. Carbon fiber drive shaft along with rear diff mounts and the ecs poly diff mount, AWS driveline stabilizer and poly snubb mount. Also track density trans and motor mounts. Just did hotchkis front and rear sway bars and Porsche BBK. I have a few ECU’s one with a PES tune and one with APR tune and an oem one with custom catless down pipes and Becker full exhaust. I also deleted a bunch of the vacuum and Solenoid junk under the hood. There’s a bunch of other stuff done and supporting mods. My main problem is I was told by numberous people I had a bad cam position sensor and I have a problem with the timming and a mysterious misfire that is not electrical I believe the timming is off one tooth and the ecu is picking it up as a misfire. So the car is running like crap. Also have a meth injection kit sitting around to get put on at sometime and a coil conversion to do.


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    Sounds like a well put together build! Is it possible that one of your timing chains is off a tooth if you just did the belt? Usually the best way to tell if the timing is off is by listening to the way the exhaust sounds when the car’s running. If the car sounds like it has a big lobe cam then the timing could be off a tooth. I’ve heard a lot of people say their Audi sounded cooler when the timing was off lol

  17. #17
    I’ll try to explain. Belt was done by a Indy shop right befor I put the kit on. Everyone told me by CCT must be beat so I got a good used one and installed it. The first time I was definitely off a tooth so I redid it and it improved greatly. But now it still has really low compression on 4 5 6 like 30-40psi and has misses on all the cylinders too. But not electrically. No fouled plugs or oilily nice and even and brown. And it doesn’t stutter just get a flashing cell and has evenly low power. So it time to pull the valve cover again and see if it was off 2 teeth orig. would make sense cause doing the compression test the intake valves would be opening prematurely and letting the compression out before top dead center.


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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    @Calderfer2665
    So your belt is timed correctly right? Did you check your chains when you did the valve cover gaskets?

  19. #19
    I’am banking the belt was done right!! It’s a very reputable shop been there for like since the 50’s


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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings Joe Jr.'s Avatar
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    hey Andy did you pick up that Supercharger off a car that was posted on CL? I watch CL here most weeks and saw one posted i think on a white b5...maybe? Anyways, watching your thread now. Like the project, could be lots of fun when you have it running.
    Need another!

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    I would be inclined to run a 2.7T harness and ECU. It will make tuning much easier, and give the added safety of EGT’s.
    2007 Audi RS4 Avant B7 - Misano Red Pearl Effect
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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Jr. View Post
    hey Andy did you pick up that Supercharger off a car that was posted on CL? I watch CL here most weeks and saw one posted i think on a white b5...maybe? Anyways, watching your thread now. Like the project, could be lots of fun when you have it running.
    I picked up the parts car with the supercharger off Craigslist last October. It was a grey wrapped B5 sedan in Fort Collins and my buddy and I towed it with a chain back to Denver. The kid told me the motor was blown and the supercharger was fine, turned out being the other way around. Definitely worth it though if this ends up working since the car only cost me $800. And there’s been a few supercharger 2.8s that have come up on the Denver Craigslist every now and then.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nollywood View Post
    I would be inclined to run a 2.7T harness and ECU. It will make tuning much easier, and give the added safety of EGT’s.
    My buddy that’s going to help me tune it recommended the exact same thing, probably wouldn’t be a bad idea... I want to set up the car with anti-lag not for any purpose, just for the troll factor lol

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings Joe Jr.'s Avatar
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    would be fun to run that thing on e85....I almost bought one of those cars posted this last year with the sc....
    Need another!

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Jr. View Post
    would be fun to run that thing on e85....I almost bought one of those cars posted this last year with the sc....
    If it ends up running well I might try E85. All I’d need is the injectors and my buddy should be able to tune it.

  26. #26
    Hey you doing coil on plug conversion? Well a coil on plug waste spark conversion lol?


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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Well let’s just say I’m really bad at updating threads... car is finished after 3 months of working on it every week in the garage. Lots of custom stuff here and there... I plan on updating this thread with everything I did, just haven’t gotten around to it yet. The tune feels pretty decent as it is, my buddy and I might try and work on it a little. Feel free to ask me questions and keep bugging me to update the thread so I stop slacking off lol!



  28. #28
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    How much power did you make?


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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OGKayGee View Post
    How much power did you make?


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    Not quite sure yet, it’s about the same speed, maybe a touch faster than my B7 A4 3.2 which probably makes around 230 wheel. The other thing too is I live 6,000 ft above sea level so it’s hard to determine hp up here. I’m going to virtual dyno the car and then when the tune is all finished I might try and get it on a real dyno. The last time I virtual dynoed this car when it was all stock it made 126 whp... it’s probably not accurate at all, but we get huge power losses up here and this thing felt like a slug before!

  30. #30
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    How did you solve the vacuum lines? Did you follow any diagram from pes? Can you upload a picture? Thanks btw i kind of want to paint my g2 same color pattern as you did

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pdrabott View Post
    How did you solve the vacuum lines? Did you follow any diagram from pes? Can you upload a picture? Thanks btw i kind of want to paint my g2 same color pattern as you did
    Here’s a video I made that hopefully explains the vacuum routing well enough. I tried to PM you too but for some reason the message wouldn’t send. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions about the build.


    Also a little update for everyone... I’ve been driving the car a little over 2,000 miles now and it’s still running really solid. I have some virtual dyno, MAF, and other data I’ll upload in a bit. Should have time in the near future to properly update the thread with all the info I want to put in so stay tuned.

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    Quote Originally Posted by b7_Andy View Post
    Here’s a video I made that hopefully explains the vacuum routing well enough. I tried to PM you too but for some reason the message wouldn’t send. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions about the build.


    Also a little update for everyone... I’ve been driving the car a little over 2,000 miles now and it’s still running really solid. I have some virtual dyno, MAF, and other data I’ll upload in a bit. Should have time in the near future to properly update the thread with all the info I want to put in so stay tuned.
    Bookmarked! Thank you so much for making this well explained video! The diagrams I had originally found showed vacuum lines set up another way leaving blue solenoid unused. Will try this see what happens!

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    Veteran Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pdrabott View Post
    Bookmarked! Thank you so much for making this well explained video! The diagrams I had originally found showed vacuum lines set up another way leaving blue solenoid unused. Will try this see what happens!
    Ya I haven’t had any check codes come up and the car sits at around -17, -18 in-hg at idle and makes about 7.5 psi in the higher gears. I’m 6,000 ft above sea level so those numbers are about right.

  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings vrmm's Avatar
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    6psi for all that work does it make a big difference? 6 cylinders seems like it could. Do rods hold you back?

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    Wow this is cool! I work at magnuson superchargers and I didnt know we used to make the PES supercharger (although I did have a feeling we did singe we did the APR R8, RS4 & S4 superchargers) definitely cool thread! Subbed would be cool if you got the chance to slap it in the dyno to see power figures!

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    Quote Originally Posted by vrmm View Post
    6psi for all that work does it make a big difference? 6 cylinders seems like it could. Do rods hold you back?
    It peaks at about 7.5 psi in gears 3-6. This system uses a pretty large port intake manifold so 7.5 psi is quite a bit more air flow than 7.5 psi in a 1.8 or 2.7. The rods and crank are the same as the 2.7 and the compression ratio is 10.3:1 in a 2.8 compared to 9.3:1 in a 2.7 so I'm sure stock rods could probably handle 400 whp in a 2.8. I'm limited by the supercharger, I've got the blower maxed out speed-wise at ~15,500 rpm at redline. So I can't spin the blower any faster than I am now. Only way I could get more power would be fueling it with E85 (hopefully will happen in the future) or bore and stroke the motor... Or tri-charge it with 2 K04s, that would be something!

    Quote Originally Posted by ralphie_43 View Post
    Wow this is cool! I work at magnuson superchargers and I didnt know we used to make the PES supercharger (although I did have a feeling we did singe we did the APR R8, RS4 & S4 superchargers) definitely cool thread! Subbed would be cool if you got the chance to slap it in the dyno to see power figures!
    The PES supercharger kit came out in the early 2000s I believe with the G1 and G2 kit (both using a Magnuson MP62 blower just mounted differently for each generation). PES stopped all support for the B5 platform and their G2 kit about a year and a half ago. It's almost impossible to buy a MP62 these days, I haven't seen a new one for sale in over 6 months... Wish it was easier to get parts for it, I could have really used a new rotor pack haha. Also since you work at Magnuson do you think you could find out what the recommended max speed is for an MP62? I heard it's 14,000 rpm for long intervals and 17,000 rpm absolute max, not sure how accurate that is though.

    Anyways onto the numbers! According to VAGCOM the supercharger gains are +60 ft-lb and +102 HP. The biggest difference as seen in the charts is the high end horsepower. This thing really dominates in the top end where the NA engine used to kind of fall off, it just climbs steeper the higher you go in rpms. This log was also taken with a bad MAF, I'll need to log it again now that I changed the MAF.

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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by b7_Andy View Post
    It peaks at about 7.5 psi in gears 3-6. This system uses a pretty large port intake manifold so 7.5 psi is quite a bit more air flow than 7.5 psi in a 1.8 or 2.7. The rods and crank are the same as the 2.7 and the compression ratio is 10.3:1 in a 2.8 compared to 9.3:1 in a 2.7 so I'm sure stock rods could probably handle 400 whp in a 2.8. I'm limited by the supercharger, I've got the blower maxed out speed-wise at ~15,500 rpm at redline. So I can't spin the blower any faster than I am now. Only way I could get more power would be fueling it with E85 (hopefully will happen in the future) or bore and stroke the motor... Or tri-charge it with 2 K04s, that would be something!



    The PES supercharger kit came out in the early 2000s I believe with the G1 and G2 kit (both using a Magnuson MP62 blower just mounted differently for each generation). PES stopped all support for the B5 platform and their G2 kit about a year and a half ago. It's almost impossible to buy a MP62 these days, I haven't seen a new one for sale in over 6 months... Wish it was easier to get parts for it, I could have really used a new rotor pack haha. Also since you work at Magnuson do you think you could find out what the recommended max speed is for an MP62? I heard it's 14,000 rpm for long intervals and 17,000 rpm absolute max, not sure how accurate that is though.

    Anyways onto the numbers! According to VAGCOM the supercharger gains are +60 ft-lb and +102 HP. The biggest difference as seen in the charts is the high end horsepower. This thing really dominates in the top end where the NA engine used to kind of fall off, it just climbs steeper the higher you go in rpms. This log was also taken with a bad MAF, I'll need to log it again now that I changed the MAF.
    I'll definitely get back to you about the max speed the 2nd when I go back into work! If there us any future issue you can always email sales about getting the blower redone

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    Quote Originally Posted by ralphie_43 View Post
    I'll definitely get back to you about the max speed the 2nd when I go back into work! If there us any future issue you can always email sales about getting the blower redone

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    Thanks! I’ll see how long my redneck rebuild lasts haha

  40. #40
    Veteran Member Four Rings ralphie_43's Avatar
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    Hey man so the max is 16,000 rpm

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