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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Post HOW TO: Oil Separator R&R

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    I wrote this guide on how to replace your oil separator as this appears to be a persistent issue on 2013 S6/S7 cars, particularly ones that are just outside warranty, like mine (53k miles). The symptoms are described in TSB 2040644/8, detailed below from the erWin website:
    Instructions for use

    Please note:
    This TSH article may be used only if the equipment
    combinations, on-board control units and event memory
    entries specified below apply to the vehicle.
    Diagnostic trouble codes
    Diagnostic address Diagnostic trouble code Fault symptom Storage state
    0001 - Engine Control Module 1 P227900: Intake Air System Leak Intermittent
    0001 - Engine Control Module 1 P050700: Idle Control System RPM Higher than Expected Intermittent
    ________________________________________
    Technical Service Bulletin Transaction No.: 2040644/8
    17 MIL on; whistling noises from engine compartment (DTC P2279 and/or P0507) Release date: May 25, 2017
    Condition
    REVISION HISTORY
    Revision Date Purpose
    8 - Revised header data (Added engine code)
    7 02/14/2017 Revised Required Parts and Tools (Updated part number)
    6 01/19/2017 Revised Warranty (Updated time units and Claim Type)
    • A metallic whistling or grinding sound is heard from the engine compartment when the vehicle is at idle speed.
    • The sound usually only occurs when the engine is warm.
    • The MIL is sporadically on.
    The following DTCs are stored in the engine control module (ECM), J623 (address word 0001):
    • DTC P2279 (Intake air system leak)
    • DTC P0507 (Idle control system rpm higher than expected)
    Technical Background
    A leak in the crankcase breather module (pressure regulating valve) can cause this condition.
    Production Solution
    Fabric reinforced internal membrane of crankcase breather module.
    Service
    1. Perform both of the following checks before proceeding:
    • Compare the sound of the vehicle to the sound in the video located at:
    https://audi-external.kzoplatform.co...swf/player/311 (Figure 1).
    • Open the filler cap to check whether the sound is affected when the filler cap is open.

    Figure 1. QR code for viewing the video with a QR code reader on phones and tablets. Alternatively, the video can be accessed through computer internet browsers at the link provided in this bulletin.
    2. If the sound of the vehicle matches the sound in the video and the sound is affected when the filler cap is opened, replace the oil separator breather module.
    Warranty
    Claim Type: • 110 up to 48 Months/50,000 Miles.
    • G10 for CPO Covered Vehicles – Verify Owner.
    • If vehicle is outside any warranty, this Technical Service Bulletin is informational only.

    Service Number: 1726
    Damage Code: 0050
    Labor Operations: For A8 and S8:
    Oil separator breather remove +reinstall 1753 1971 20 TU
    Air intake distributor remove + reinstall 2446 1921 470 TU
    For S6 and S7:
    Oil separator breather remove + reinstall 1753 1971 20 TU
    Air intake distributor remove + reinstall 2446 1921 600 TU
    Additional labor for adjustment of ACC, top view camera, and night vision, if necessary based on vehicle equipment See Elsa See Elsa
    For RS7:
    Oil separator breather remove +reinstall 1753 1971 20 TU
    Refrigerant drain + fill 8703 1750 40 TU
    Air intake distributor remove + reinstall 2446 1923 690 TU
    Additional labor for adjustment of ACC, top view camera, and night vision, if necessary based on vehicle equipment See Elsa See Elsa
    Diagnostic Time: GFF – Checking and clearing fault codes included in existing labor operations 0150 0000 10 TU
    Road test prior to service procedure 0121 0002 10 TU
    Road test after service procedure 0121 0004 10 TU
    Technical diagnosis at dealer’s discretion
    (Refer to Section 2.2.1.2 and Audi Warranty Online for DADP allowance details)
    Claim Comment: As per TSB #2040644/8
    All warranty claims submitted for payment must be in accordance with the Audi Warranty Policies and Procedures Manual. Claims are subject to review or audit by Audi Warranty.
    Required Parts and Tools
    Part Number Part Description Quantity
    079103542E Oil separator 1
    079129717J Gasket intercooler left 1
    079129717K Gasket intercooler right 1
    N 90442501 Retaining clip 2
    N 90489801 Retaining clip 2
    N 90409501 Retaining clip 2
    079145818 Gasket throttle body 1
    079145417B Gasket recirculation valve 2
    WHT 001011 O-ring 1
    G 013A8J1G Coolant additive 1
    Outside material Distilled water (obtain locally) As needed
    (Max $10.00)
    Additional Information
    All parts and service references provided in this TSB (2040644) are subject to change and/or removal. Always check with your Parts Department and service manuals for the latest information.
    ©2017 Audi of America, Inc. All rights reserved. Information contained in this document is based on the latest information available at the time of printing and is subject to the copyright and other intellectual property rights of Audi of America, Inc., its affiliated companies and its licensors. All rights are reserved to make changes at any time without notice. No part of this document may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, nor may these materials be modified or reposted to other sites without the prior expressed written permission of the publisher.

    Based on the TSB and other threads about the parts required to perform this job, expect to spend around $500 for the parts listed below:
    - 1x 079103542E – SEPARATOR
    - 1x 079145818 – THROTTLE BODY SEAL
    - 1x 079129717K – PASSENGER SIDE GASKET
    - 1x 079129717J – DRIVER’S SIDE GASKET
    - 2x 079145417B – BYPASS VALVE SEAL
    - 2x N90489801 – CLIP
    - 1x N90409501 – CLIP
    - 3x G13 Coolant (1 GALLON)

    Tools: I ended up using the following tools for the project. Not too many considering all that you are removing to gain access to the culprit, but a couple were new to me.

    - 7mm nut driver
    - Torx bits (T20, T30)
    - ¼” drive extensions
    - Hose removal tools
    - Body clip removal tools
    - Pliers for removing clamps
    - Hose clamp pliers (for crimping one-time use clamps)
    - Coolant filling system (I used the Schwaben one from ECS)
    - Triple square bit for removing undertray
    - Mirror
    - Ramps
    Step 1: Get your car on the ramps and remove the engine cover, airbox, and airbox-to-turbo inlet accordion hoses. Insert shop towels into turbo inlets to ensure no dirt/debris gets into them:


    Step 2: Use compressed air to blow off the throttle body area of debris. Using a T30 Torx, remove the three bolts from the driver’s side bypass valve-to-throttle body connection (The longer bolt goes on the outside):


    Step 3: Do the same for the passenger side. Insert shop towel to ensure no debris goes into the holes:


    Step 4: Using a 7mm nut driver, loosen the clamps on the turbo-to-throttle body tubes.
    Step 5: Disconnect the black and brown connectors from the bypass valve assembly on each side:


    Step 6: Using a screwdriver and some anger, remove the clamp from the turbo inlet-to-bypass valve on the driver’s side. Then, remove the bypass valve assembly from the driver’s side:


    Step 7: Remove the clamp holding the passenger side wastegate hose to the intercooler. Remove the hose and push it off to the side:


    Step 8: Using a T30 Torx bit and extension, remove the 6 screws holding the throttle body to the intercooler:


    Step 9: Using a hose tool to wedge under the hose, loosen the turbo-to-throttle body hoses. Push the throttle body aft a bit, then lift up over the little lip on the intercooler, then forward to remove the throttle body. Before you can remove the throttle body, there are two sensors on the underside. Pull the grey tabs up, then push in to release both connections. The one with the green wire goes on the passenger side, brown wire on the driver’s side):



    Step 10: Remove the two 5mm bolts holding the driver’s side turbo inlet to the turbo.


    Step 11: Using a screwdriver and a bit more anger, loosen the tube connecting the driver’s side turbo inlet to the oil separator. Remove the tube and the entire bypass valve/turbo inlet assembly should be free:

    +


    Step 12: UNDERSIDE – Using a triple-square bit, Philips screwdriver, and T20 Torx, start removing the undertray directly below the engine.
    Step 13: Using a T20 Torx and plastic rivet removal tool, remove the two plastic rivets and 8-ish screws that hold the front wheel liner to the bumper and fender. Do this on both sides.
    Step 14: Using a T30 Torx, remove the four screws holding the bumper undertray to the radiator support.
    Step 15: Remove the bolts that hold the bumper to the lock carrier between the grill and headlight. One on each side:


    Step 16: Gently pull on the rear edge of the bumper where it meets the fender outwards, until it becomes dislodged. Do this on both sides.
    Step 17: Using a body removal tool, lift up on the two plastic rivets near the center hood latch. Remove the cover to expose the area behind the grill.
    Step 18: Disconnect the front camera, night vision, and some electronics box from behind the Audi emblem. Slowly lift and pull forward the bumper. Exposing a gap between the bumper and headlights, reach down and disconnect the ACC sensors on each side, as well as a connector below where the passenger headlight was. Finally, with the help of a friend, remove the blue clip from the headlight and night vision washers, then unplug the hose, attempting poorly to cap off the torrent of washer fluid going onto your shoe. Remove the bumper:




    Step 19: Disconnect the A/C pressure sensor, ambient air temp sensor, and both horns (one per side). Dislodge the retaining clips from the crash beam and ensure that the front wiring harness is free from the crash beam. Loop it up the driver’s side fender and out of the way:





    Step 20: Using a T30 Torx, loosen the 4 bolts holding the driver’s side headlight to the chassis, removing the 5th screw completely in the middle. The headlight retainers have level adjusters built into them, so minimizing the bolt turning will ensure you don’t need to have your headlights realigned. Finally, unclip the headlights and remove them.





    Step 21: Using a 13mm socket and wrench, loosen the four bolts holding the crash beam to the frame rails. Use a dead blow hammer to punch out the beam.

    Step 22: Drain the coolant. Look for the drain plug in-line with one of the coolant hoses in front of the driver’s side wheel. About 2 gallons will come out. Be sure to completely remove the plug for faster draining and open the expansion tank lid for venting:


    Step 23: Loosen the outer brackets from the lock carrier to the fender support thing on each side:


    Step 24: Unplug this near the driver’s side headlight. Might be for the fans, not sure:


    Step 25: Use a small flatblade screwdriver and pop off the two clips that hold the hood release cable to the lock carrier:


    Part 2 coming……
    Last edited by WhiteWhiteS7; 11-17-2017 at 05:23 AM.

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Step 26: Using a T30 Torx, remove the bolt that attaches the upper lock carrier to the fender support on each side:



    Step 27: Using a 16mm socket with extension bar, remove the 3 bolts on each side that attach the lock carrier to the frame rails. While the lock carrier won’t fall forward due to the radiator hoses still being attached, I wanted to make sure it was supported and not dangling from any hoses/wires. Use a jack stand or two to support it and slide it forward:





    Step 28: Take a break, open a beer.

    Step 29: Using a T20 Torx, remove the air intake scoop. One screw is hidden behind the radiator deflector:



    Step 30: Remove the coolant hose clamps on the intercooler. Disconnect the hoses and push them off to the side:



    Step 31: Disconnect the three hoses going to the coolant expansion tank and remove the tank. I mainly did this to gain access to the spark plugs (highly recommended during this repair).



    Step 32: Remove the clamps holding the second air injection system actuators hoses and remove the hose. The piece that connects to the air pump is disconnected by squeezing the top and bottom of the plastic coupler:





    Step 33: Using a T30 Torx and extension, remove the bolt holding the coolant crossover tube on the driver's side head. Remove the clamp on the passenger side and remove the pipe altogether:



    Step 34: Disconnect the vacuum hose on the passenger side running along the coolant crossover pipe and push it out of the way on the driver's side:



    Step 35: Dislodge some vacuum lines off of the intake runners right in front of the intercooler:



    Step 36: Disconnect the post-intercooler intake air temp sensor from the passenger side of the intercooler:



    Step 37: Using a T30 Torx, remove the 6 bolts (3 per side) that connect the intercooler runners to the intake manifolds. One is on the top, another is on the outside bottom, and one is about 3 inches inward from the second bolt. A carrier will come out with the bolt, don't worry about it:



    Step 38: Using a 5mm Allen with extension, remove the three bolts that hold the intercooler to the block on either side. It looked like there should be a 4th bolt on the driver's front, but there wasn't:




    Step 39: Time to get this sucker out. First, pull on the intercooler assembly to dislodge it from the intake manifolds and the oil separator ports. I gently used a pry bar against the passenger turbo housing, very little effort needed. Next, slide it forward until it starts to touch the radiator. Then, lift up and out, as the tabs that held it to the block are now aligned with the exhaust manifold reliefs to lift the assembly out. Coolant may pour out.



    Step 40: To replace the oil separator, first remove the two screws that hold it to the intercooler. Next, use a screwdriver to pry the tabs that keep it from sliding off the intercooler connection. Then, just remove and replace it. I cleaned up the oil ports on the block, and lubricated all of the new seals with new motor oil to ease installation.

    Step 41: Remove and replace the intercooler runner to intake manifold gaskets. Install the intercooler. Remove and replace the throttle body gasket, bypass valve gaskets, and the two clamps you destroyed on the inlet tube and separator. The one o-ring is for the hard coolant crossover pipe removed in Step 33.

    The Rest of the Story: Installation is the reverse of the above. Torque specs are below:

    - Intercooler runners to intake manifolds - 9 Nm
    - Intercooler to block - 9 Nm
    - Hard coolant crossover pipe - 9 Nm
    - Lock carrier frame to chassis - 55 Nm
    - Lock carrier top to fender - 10 Nm
    - Impact beam - 20 Nm (Tighten in this order, facing the beam from the front: 1-2-4-3)
    - Throttle body to intercooler - 5 Nm
    - Bypass valve bolts - 9 Nm

    Once filled up with coolant, use the coolant vacuum tool to pull a vacuum on the system and charge it with fresh coolant. Afterwards, you are supposed to remove the firewall cover and remove the passenger side heater core hose to purge the air from the heater core. Then follow this to ensure adequate coolant circulation:



    Duration Engine RPM Conditions
    Four minutes 3500/RPM • A/C system “OFF”, the LED in the AC button does
    not turn on
    • Heater on “HI”, blower speed as low as possible (=
    0)
    Until temperature indicator
    displays 90 °C
    (194 °F) and both hoses
    to the heater core
    for the heater are warm
    Idle • A/C system “OFF”
    • Heater “HI”
    2 Minutes 2000 RPM • A/C system “OFF”
    • Heater “HI”
    Last edited by WhiteWhiteS7; 11-17-2017 at 05:56 AM.

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Agreed -- thank you very much. Saving this so I can tackle the project in another 2-3 years when mine craps out!


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Last edited by kpriv; 11-18-2017 at 10:33 AM.
    2016 Daytona Gray S7. Black optics + sport pkg. APR stage 2 + TCU, eurocode stuff, cosmetic stuff.

  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings RedheadNV's Avatar
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    Subscribed! I’m sure I will have to do this at some point in the future. I hit 75k on Monday, so it could be soon.


    2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedheadNV View Post
    Subscribed! I’m sure I will have to do this at some point in the future. I hit 75k on Monday, so it could be soon.


    2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic
    mine just failed at 65k ish miles.
    Audi S7

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings RedheadNV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyfishing View Post
    mine just failed at 65k ish miles.
    My turbos were replaced at 62k under warranty, they may have done the PCV then. I have misplaced the folder of records that I got from the original owner. They did over $14k of work, but didn’t do the ECU recall though. So who really knows what they did till I find the folder.


    2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings ehofmann's Avatar
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    Mad props for posting this!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Wolf View Post
    Holy cow, what an awesome post and writeup. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Since this is such a common failure on early 4.0Ts (2013), the admins should make this a sticky.

    How much oil did you see in your turbos, TB hoses, etc? It's hard to tell from the photos.
    My driver's side turbo had a lot of oil in it, as this is the turbo that connects to the oil separator. Passenger side was squeaky clean.
    Hoses had a slight residue in them, but nothing I haven't seen before in a turbocharged car.
    I was pleasantly surprised at how little oil and grime there was in the intake manifold. I figured being a direct-inject car with air injection, there would be a fair amount of carbon build up and grime, but it was very clean on both sides. Perhaps the build-up would occur further down the tract near the valves, but I didn't put a borescope down there to check it out.


    On a related note, I changed my spark plugs too. At 53k miles, they needed it. Very dark, but with good tips still.

    Last edited by WhiteWhiteS7; 11-17-2017 at 09:47 AM.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings JimmyBones's Avatar
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    Typical Audi. They have never made a good PCV system and I wonder if you guys can do the normal test that most people do for the 2.0T. They test it by having the engine run at idle and then trying to open the oil filler cap. If the cap is being sucked on and is difficult to get off or the engine stalls/runs really bad without smoothing out after like 10 seconds when the cap is removed then the PCV is bad.

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings RedheadNV's Avatar
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    HOW TO: Oil Separator R&R

    So....mine failed tonight. I guess I jinxed myself. I work 7 days a week right now, but I have the next 2 day off. I don’t have a coolant vacuum tool that fits a VAG car. Hopefully the dealer has the parts on Friday and I can find a refill tool in town.


    2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Depending on your timeframe - I ordered one of the airlift vacuum tools from amazon. Might not fit your schedule if you're trying to do it this weekend though. I went to a couple local auto parts stores plus big box and none of them had it, so amazon was my quickest option. Pretty nice tool to have now that it's in my garage though.



    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    2016 Daytona Gray S7. Black optics + sport pkg. APR stage 2 + TCU, eurocode stuff, cosmetic stuff.

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings RedheadNV's Avatar
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    I went ahead and ordered a complete new Astro kit from Amazon. It will be here Saturday. I’ll have it apart tomorrow, and hopefully the dealer will have everything in stock Friday.


    2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings A6sport's Avatar
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    Wow, great, detailed write up. I'm sure many 4.0t folks will be thankful.
    2012 A7 PP| S Exterior| RS Carbon Optics| Carbon spoiler| Carbon diffuser| Carbon mirrors/ carbon pods| V6T badges| Smoked tail, side markers| 21" High-Gloss Black Blade wheels| S sport exhaust| APR Stage II 93 dual pulleys| RS7 intake| S Sport Brembos Ft/RR| TAG B/O rings

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  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings RedheadNV's Avatar
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    Well, the dealer was closed for the 4-day weekend. I finally got the car apart last night. We have had a few big storms here, and I lost basically my entire fence from the wind. Dealer won’t have the parts till tomorrow or Wednesday. I guess I’ll just have to start rebuilding my fence if the weather allows.


    2013 S6 Quartz gray metallic

  15. #15
    Senior Member Two Rings Prh's Avatar
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    Darn it. This just happened to me after getting 55k service!

    Stay tuned.
    2014 S6 Black - APR Stage 2 ECU+TCU, AWE Exhaust, HRE-FF01, Black Optics, P3 Gauge, ALP, Redline, 034, carbon diffuser, carbon mirror covers, Fuc-Euro intake

  16. #16
    Active Member Three Rings
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    Holy crap! What the hell was Audi thinking of not making it easier to replace a PCV valve? Geez. Hope I don't have to deal with this on my 2018, but doubt I'll keep it that long anyway. He he. Hey, how do you know the PCV crapped out? Usually they just let a lot of oil into the intake, but there's no way to know except by checking. Does this car throw a CEL? Thx.
    2018 S6 mythos black/black; S sport package, driver assistance package, 20" black optic package, carbon atlas, Audi rings, all-weather mats, 35/20% tint

  17. #17
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by elptxjc View Post
    Holy crap! What the hell was Audi thinking of not making it easier to replace a PCV valve? Geez. Hope I don't have to deal with this on my 2018, but doubt I'll keep it that long anyway. He he. Hey, how do you know the PCV crapped out? Usually they just let a lot of oil into the intake, but there's no way to know except by checking. Does this car throw a CEL? Thx.
    See the top part of his writeup. Usually people notice it is failing by the sound it makes. Something akin to a belt slipping combined with a train running over cats. kinda hard to miss to anyone in a 1sq mi area. This usually happens before you throw a CEL, at least a hard code.
    -------
    2014 S6 - Stage 3, AMS downpipes with custom exhaust
    2013 S4 - Dual Pulley e85 - sold

  18. #18
    Active Member Three Rings
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    Yeah, missed that. Thanks brother. Wonder what causes the noise if there're no moving parts. Hmmm. A PCV valve is supposed to be just a simple part that only allows oil vapor to recycle back to the intake while keeping condensed oil inside the pan. Guess Audi wanted to do that differently too. Germans. Ha ha. Hope they improved it with my car. Thanks again for the explanation.
    2018 S6 mythos black/black; S sport package, driver assistance package, 20" black optic package, carbon atlas, Audi rings, all-weather mats, 35/20% tint

  19. #19
    Established Member Four Rings OlyS6's Avatar
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    Luckily for newer owners (MY1017 and newer) Audi went with the ‘E’ version that is on the RS7, which hasn’t reported any problems (yet) MY2016 cars have the ‘D’ version. I’m unaware of the ‘D’ version causing problems, but for anyone in there anyway )swapping turbos for instance), its likely a good idea to swap it out for the E version as long as you’re in there.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2016 S6, mythos black, RS7 turbos, MRC inlets |AWE intake and touring exhaust| APR downpipes| AMS cooler| Eurocode sways, end-links, and AK | Audi CCB| HRE P103, 20x10 | RS6 grille| Neidfaktor CF mirrors, diffuser, and steering wheel| Blackvue dashcams| Escort Max CI 360 | RS6 LED headlights |Sound: Navtv Zen-v, Audiocontrol DM-810 DSP, JL HD900/5 driving JL10W3 sub and Focal KX3 up front. Rear; JL HD600/4 driving Focal KX2.

  20. #20
    Established Member Four Rings OlyS6's Avatar
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    Many thanks to WhiteWhiteS7 for this thread. It helped immensely in doing my turbo swap, since you have to do all of this to get decent access to the turbos anyway.


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    2016 S6, mythos black, RS7 turbos, MRC inlets |AWE intake and touring exhaust| APR downpipes| AMS cooler| Eurocode sways, end-links, and AK | Audi CCB| HRE P103, 20x10 | RS6 grille| Neidfaktor CF mirrors, diffuser, and steering wheel| Blackvue dashcams| Escort Max CI 360 | RS6 LED headlights |Sound: Navtv Zen-v, Audiocontrol DM-810 DSP, JL HD900/5 driving JL10W3 sub and Focal KX3 up front. Rear; JL HD600/4 driving Focal KX2.



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