Common issues of the C7 3.0T after 60k | How's yours holding up?

[A6sport]

I'll give you a clue. Change anything on your car right before that popped up?

As a matter of fact I did... When I got the RS7 air box I did the initial install. That hose on the bottom was a bitch to get secured. I had a dealer oil change visit scheduled and told them the light came on maybe a day or two after the box went in. I also mentioned that hose on the bottom of the box. My thought was it came loose. When I picked up the car they said the box and hose had nothing to do with it. I contested and told them I was sure there was a correlation. They said coincidence...

They cleared the code, told me it would probably come back, it did before I got home (20miles) Secondary air injection pump for pre-cat heating? Carbon buildup?

That car has never had more than a sip of anything except BP 93 in 5 years of ownership. Now you've really got me curious.

[p3u]

As a matter of fact I did... When I got the RS7 air box I did the initial install. That hose on the bottom was a bitch to get secured. I had a dealer oil change visit scheduled and told them the light came on maybe a day or two after the box went in. I also mentioned that hose on the bottom of the box. My thought was it came loose. When I picked up the car they said the box and hose had nothing to do with it. I contested and told them I was sure there was a correlation. They said coincidence...

They cleared the code, told me it would probably come back, it did before I got home (20miles) Secondary air injection pump for pre-cat heating? Carbon buildup?

That car has never had more than a sip of anything except BP 93 in 5 years of ownership. Now you've really got me curious.

RS7 airbox is your problem. It is not a coincidence that you received the SAI code afterwards.

The hose attachment at the bottom of your stock box is open, while on the RS7 box it is sealed. The RS7 doesnt use the airbox for SAI.

Remove the box and drill the SAI attachment point so it is actually able to draw air.

[A6sport]

RS7 airbox is your problem. It is not a coincidence that you received the SAI code afterwards.

The hose attachment at the bottom of your stock box is open, while on the RS7 box it is sealed. The RS7 doesnt use the airbox for SAI.

Remove the box and drill the SAI attachment point so it is actually able to draw air.

Thanks for the heads up. No one mentioned this little tidbit, or I missed it.

[S2020]

bought used at 77K 1.5 years ago.
a factory recall last year.
back up camera stopped working - repaired for $500

[Nmolnar]

Purchased my 2013 S6 as a CPO with 40k. miles from dealer at beginning of 2017. No problems to report so far with 45k. miles now. According to Carfax, other than dealer service and for for tire and brake pad replacement, the only non-routine work was the replacement of the intake manifold gaskets just prior to me taking delivery. All recalls were performed as well as dealer service and so this S6 has been problem free.

[Mscarn2014]

What happened with the camera? I have flickering camera feed every so often and some days it legit fails also - seems like a cable problem IMO. This what happened with you?

[p3u]

Thanks for the heads up. No one mentioned this little tidbit, or I missed it.

It was never mentioned anywhere. I thought messed something up when I installed the intake and upon comparison of the two boxes I discovered the discrepancy.

Let me know if it does the trick!

[A6sport]

It was never mentioned anywhere. I thought messed something up when I installed the intake and upon comparison of the two boxes I discovered the discrepancy.

Let me know if it does the trick!

That's a great observation. I could have seen myself chasing this down for a long while! It would have made me crazy!

[ryanwerling78]

I’m at 93k miles bought the car 6 months ago with 60k. (2012 A6 APR Stage 2)

So far windshield replaced, dealer still can’t figure out why my adaptive cruise control isn’t working after windshield install.

New brakes front and rear(EBC drilled and slotted EBC red stuff pads), humming noise from rear differential just changed fluid as it seemed low and had metal shavings in it. So guessing new rear differential is to come.

Just ordered new motor mounts tonight (034 motor sports) as well as 034 drive train inserts to stiffen it up.

It has never left me stranded.



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[Leica_Shooter]

At 80k miles, purchased cpo w/54k. Oil pressure sensor was bad initially, would put engine into epc mode when going near redline. Fuel door release intermittent @ 65k. 71k both motor mounts replaced after I mentioned harsh shifting. Oil consumption has been good until recently, in 5k miles it has gone from to top of the max line to almost the minimum level. Any idea how much this may be? Thinking of topping it off a bit until the next oil change @ 85k. (All issues were handled under cpo warranty so far.)

[nks979]

Anyone able to get their mounts replaced before they started throwing codes? Mine have all the signs of being dead, harsh shifts and vibration at idle, but Audi won’t replace them under warranty without codes


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[Leica_Shooter]

Anyone able to get their mounts replaced before they started throwing codes? Mine have all the signs of being dead, harsh shifts and vibration at idle, but Audi won’t replace them under warranty without codes

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Mine were replaced without codes thrown. (Have vcds reader.) It may depend on the dealership that does it, mine has always been very good. They took a close look at the mounts and found them to be leaking, thus requiring replacement. They kept my vehicle overnight and gave me a loaner to take home. Being that they are 100 miles from home, they even offered to come pick up my vehicle to perform the work.

[nks979]

The video they sent me, not sure if that’s all Audi dealers or just audi Denver, said they checked codes and nothing else.. I’ll see if my normal SA can get them to visually inspect the mounts. Thanks


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[Carl Weathers]

Had an independent shop replace the motor mount, which was at complete failure, under Audi Pure extended warranty and no code was being thrown. They were shocked I wasn't throwing a code as well.

[Carl Weathers]

Second motor mount being replaced along with the thermostat. Covered by Fidelity's Audi Pure. No code was ever thrown.

[nks979]

Not to go off-topic, but did anyone else have idle-vibration issues and hard shifting issues for a reason other than mounts? Mine started all of the sudden and all motor/transmission mounts are fine, no fluid being leaked


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[S4LIFE247]

Second motor mount being replaced along with the thermostat. Covered by Fidelity's Audi Pure. No code was ever thrown.

What’s the parts + labor cost on replacing the motor mount?


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[Carl Weathers]

What’s the parts + labor cost on replacing the motor mount?


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Part $275, labor $275. $550 total for one mount.

[ryanwerling78]

Not to go off-topic, but did anyone else have idle-vibration issues and hard shifting issues for a reason other than mounts? Mine started all of the sudden and all motor/transmission mounts are fine, no fluid being leaked


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The fluid could be completely leaked out


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[nks979]

I’ll have to check that myself, thanks again.


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[BlazinB5]

Excellent info so far! Thanks for all the info guys.

[Mscarn2014]

Purchased car at 68k miles.

2 weeks later got CELs.

Cat Efficiency Below Threshold (likely remedy with software update but will install O2 spacers just in case)
Air bank efficiency (got carbon cleaning 1x good will from dealer)
PCV Valve under performing, recommend "breather valve" replacement (declined at the time)

Update. Car is at 75k miles, got EPL stage 2 tune and repaired all the codes I had before at independent mechanic.
- PCV valve replacement
- Injector carbon cleaning (any car with DI, especially Audi's, should have this done periodically), mine were terrible.
- O2 spacers installed, no more codes
- While at shop, also found coolant leak, they replaced all the gaskets and O rings and fixed it right up (apparently common issue)

Other issues I want to eventually address
- Left/driver side mirror heater is out/not working
- Heated steering wheel is pretty weak for some reason?
- Terrible rattle with high bass music on rear shelf (Bose)

[Carl Weathers]

Update. Car is at 75k miles, got EPL stage 2 tune and repaired all the codes I had before at independent mechanic.
- PCV valve replacement
- Injector carbon cleaning (any car with DI, especially Audi's, should have this done periodically), mine were terrible.
- O2 spacers installed, no more codes
- While at shop, also found coolant leak, they replaced all the gaskets and O rings and fixed it right up (apparently common issue)

Other issues I want to eventually address
- Left/driver side mirror heater is out/not working
- Heated steering wheel is pretty weak for some reason?
- Terrible rattle with high bass music on rear shelf (Bose)

Try placing a rubber washer under the speaker cover. I had a similar issue and it was the cover rattling against the rest of the assembly.

[Calimus]

178k on my 2012 3.0T

All recalls have been completed by Dealer

Issues
- Motor mounts needs to be replaced, but its on the "someday" List
- 2 second chain rattle on startup. It's not every time, added some lucus oil stabilizer and that appears to have helped, only happens now if the car sits for more than 1-2 days.
- Driver side flex pipe crack. Not really worried on this one and as mentioned earlier, kinda like the added sound at startup.
- Cooling fan fuse blown - Replaced the fuse, no issues since. These are exposed to the elements in the engine bay so they can get cruddy.


Maint I've done
- Reg oil changes
- Serviced the trans at 150k (in hindsight I would do this around 90k) Dealer wouldn't do it so I did, wasn't really a difficult job.
- Replaced front rotors & Pads and rear Pads
- Spark Plugs (every 30k)

[jazzyjay18]

2-4 second rattle at start-up
Oil separator cracked internally coolant went into oil pan 62k

[Laserrs]

FYI there's a TSB on the backup camera, cable needs replaced. Mine would intermittently not come on. Dealer replaced under warranty (2014 A6).

[ryanwerling78]

178k on my 2012 3.0T

All recalls have been completed by Dealer

Issues
- Motor mounts needs to be replaced, but its on the "someday" List
- 2 second chain rattle on startup. It's not every time, added some lucus oil stabilizer and that appears to have helped, only happens now if the car sits for more than 1-2 days.
- Driver side flex pipe crack. Not really worried on this one and as mentioned earlier, kinda like the added sound at startup.
- Cooling fan fuse blown - Replaced the fuse, no issues since. These are exposed to the elements in the engine bay so they can get cruddy.


Maint I've done
- Reg oil changes
- Serviced the trans at 150k (in hindsight I would do this around 90k) Dealer wouldn't do it so I did, wasn't really a difficult job.
- Replaced front rotors & Pads and rear Pads
- Spark Plugs (every 30k)

If you need any pointers when you get to the motor mounts let me know. The passenger side is pretty straight forward and there’s a great write up on here.

The drivers side on the other hand is far from fun/easy. Took me about a week to do. Mostly because I lost one of the torx bolts that holds the oil cooler on and had to order new.


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[yeuchau]

- 2 second chain rattle on startup. It's not every time, added some lucus oil stabilizer and that appears to have helped, only happens now if the car sits for more than 1-2 days.

that's a lot miles on the A6 you got there.
Also isn't there a TSB for issue #2? I recall i saw something like that from S4 forum while back

[Slickn]

Update. Car is at 75k miles, got EPL stage 2 tune and repaired all the codes I had before at independent mechanic.
- PCV valve replacement
- Injector carbon cleaning (any car with DI, especially Audi's, should have this done periodically), mine were terrible.
- O2 spacers installed, no more codes
- While at shop, also found coolant leak, they replaced all the gaskets and O rings and fixed it right up (apparently common issue)

Other issues I want to eventually address
- Left/driver side mirror heater is out/not working
- Heated steering wheel is pretty weak for some reason?
- Terrible rattle with high bass music on rear shelf (Bose)

If you have vagcom you can turn up the target heat for the steering wheel. I think it's set to 28c from the factory, I changed mine to 32c and it was a great difference.

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[Calimus]

If you need any pointers when you get to the motor mounts let me know. The passenger side is pretty straight forward and there’s a great write up on here.

The drivers side on the other hand is far from fun/easy. Took me about a week to do. Mostly because I lost one of the torx bolts that holds the oil cooler on and had to order new.


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I appreciate it. I will prollie tackle the pass side myself, I've seen the write up and it looks pretty straight forward. I've also heard the driver side is s super PITA. So it might be one of the rare times I let an indy shop take care of something.

[Calimus]

that's a lot miles on the A6 you got there.
Also isn't there a TSB for issue #2? I recall i saw something like that from S4 forum while back

The only way you can get the dealer to cover the chain tensioner issue is while it's still under warranty. Mine didn't start till about 100k, which was way beyond that cut off unfortunately. Dealer did quote me a horrid number when it was in for it's last recall issue, indy shop gave me a much better number and the shop is well known in the Audi/VW community for their exceptional work, so I trust them. I'd do it myself, but my meat hooks don't fit back there worth a damn, lol.

[dwalmop]

I just rolled over 70k on my 2013 3.0T.

I just had the water pump replaced (like, yesterday) under CPO due to a very minor coolant leak, and at 47k, the valve cover gaskets were replaced. Other than that it's been rock-solid for me (knock on wood).

I changed the trans fluid at 60k, just as a preventative measure.

I think I need to bring it back before the CPO expires though, because it's starting to get this terrible drone/vibration under acceleration when it's cold. Motor mounts were my first suspicion, but after reading this thread, I think I'll make an appointment.

[dwalmop]

Update. Car is at 75k miles, got EPL stage 2 tune and repaired all the codes I had before at independent mechanic.

- Heated steering wheel is pretty weak for some reason?
- Terrible rattle with high bass music on rear shelf (Bose)

Me too on both of these! The rattle on my rear shelf isn't that bad. It's minor enough that I usually don't notice it, but every once in a while I do.
I thought the steering wheel heat being weak was normal? Can anybody else weigh in on this? I got a new Q5 as a courtesy car and it was blazing hot, but I thought maybe that was just something they designed into a newer model.

[Slickn]

Me too on both of these! The rattle on my rear shelf isn't that bad. It's minor enough that I usually don't notice it, but every once in a while I do.
I thought the steering wheel heat being weak was normal? Can anybody else weigh in on this? I got a new Q5 as a courtesy car and it was blazing hot, but I thought maybe that was just something they designed into a newer model.

How to adjust steering wheel heat with vagcom: The factory preset temperature is set to 28 degrees C, if you want to increase (or decrease it) using vcds simply go to module 16 (steering wheel), adaptation and select channel 10. the preset value is 28 which relates to 28 degrees. Change this to a temperature of your choice and you are done. I used 32 and it's much warmer.

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[dwalmop]

How to adjust steering wheel heat with vagcom: The factory preset temperature is set to 28 degrees C, if you want to increase (or decrease it) using vcds simply go to module 16 (steering wheel), adaptation and select channel 10. the preset value is 28 which relates to 28 degrees. Change this to a temperature of your choice and you are done. I used 32 and it's much warmer.

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Thanks! That's fantastic - I'm going to do that tonight.

[Carl Weathers]

Honestly I couldn't believe how smooth the car was after both mounts were replaced. The change was so gradual that I hadn't noticed much until it was awful.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Is there an inherent problem with this motor eating oil? Is there any maintenance item we should all be looking for to minimize oil use?

New Audi Owner here (as in, I just got my car Tuesday night.)

How do you diagnose a bad wheel bearing?

I'm at 63k miles and burn two quarts of oil between 10k mile oil changes. Burned 1qt between first 30-40k miles.

Other than that, been good.

[ayoo456]

Currently, I'm at 82,500 miles, no modifications

No oil consumption issues since switching to Motul at 58k miles.

2-4 second rattle at start-up noted since 65k miles

Flex pipe started leaking at 68k miles (I actually like the extra noise, and cold starts take me back to my A4 3.2 days).

Replaced both rear wheel bearings at 77k miles (one was preventative).

Knock on wood, those are the only issues and not one is troubling.

I just got that rattle sound fixed. Audi told me it was because of a bad motor mount. Idk if that's true or not. They had this entire list of things. Then I told them I had a warranty and their tone changed a lil.

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[ked]

I just got that rattle sound fixed. Audi told me it was because of a bad motor mount. Idk if that's true or not. They had this entire list of things. Then I told them I had a warranty and their tone changed a lil.

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HA, nice! Glad you got it fixed under warranty. I came across an old thread where the fix was outlined and actually applied across platforms (B6A4 3.0, C6 4.2, etc...). In that thread it wasn't the motor mounts. I was at work when i found it so i didn't bookmark or subscribe to the thread. When I have time, I'll look it up and post the link.

I started noticing the vibration at idle two weeks ago (84,700 miles) so, I probably do need my motor mounts replaced but, I'm out of warranty and am waiting to get many items addressed, like brakes/rotors on all four corners, new spark plugs, etc... when i finally take it to my indy mechanic in the spring.

[Carl Weathers]

Is there an inherent problem with this motor eating oil? Is there any maintenance item we should all be looking for to minimize oil use?

New Audi Owner here (as in, I just got my car Tuesday night.)

3.0T oil consumption is normal. Not driving like a maniac usually lessens that consumption, but some people can't help it.....me being one of em.