My first AR

[ShelbyM3]

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[ShelbyM3]

Thanks to @cybersombosis and his help I was able to test the VSS sensor using a magnet to tap the tip, which I clearly wasn’t sure of where exactly that was , with a magnet and record my speedometer with my phone. I got movement. So, it’s confirmed the tone ring is gone. I ordered 2 off eBay, because I have a problem, two gaskets for the case cover and five axle seals.

https://youtube.com/shorts/bpEzY1Jn_...OTdH6WWEPuURhx


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[Audibot]

because I have a problem

That's called "insurance"

Happy you could confirm.

[ShelbyM3]

That's called "insurance"

Happy you could confirm.

Anymore, it’s going to just be my policy. With 3 and looking into a 4th, I’ll need a hoard.


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[Audibot]

I’ll need a hoard.

You sure your name is Shelby and not Smaug?

[ShelbyM3]

You sure your name is Shelby and not Smaug?

I don’t get the reference, but Google says it’s a dragon from The Hobbit. I can be a dragon!


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[Audibot]

I don’t get the reference, but Google says it’s a dragon from The Hobbit. I can be a dragon!

He's a dragon who hordes treasure, as dragons are legendary for. Voiced by Benadryl Cucumberpatch.

[ShelbyM3]

Headlight clear the intercoolers by about an inch or so. Phew. Now my neighbors won’t flash me when I’m testing my VSS




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[ShelbyM3]

Bumper fits It’s a little snug on the passenger’s side because of the A/C condenser line, but it’s on. It’s a car again! I just tossed the two crash bar bolts in for now.





Driver’s side intercooler



Passenger’s side intercooler



I get to hurry up and wait now, on shipping from Latvia. Story of my life, hahaha.


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[Audibot]

Hard to tell if your cut core support is touching your pass side intercooler hose by the belly pan screw thing. If it is, consider protecting it in case it does rub.

[ShelbyM3]

Hard to tell if your cut core support is touching your pass side intercooler hose by the belly pan screw thing. If it is, consider protecting it in case it does rub.

Good eye and thank you for the recommendation.

It is but it isn’t. It’s actually touching the metal support beam in the lock carrier and not the plastic with the belly pan clip, so much. I had a big worm clamp there for a few weeks to protect the silicone from the clip, but I just couldn’t leave it so I removed it. It felt sloppy. I also thought about trimming the plastic back. I probably will end up doing something. I really wish this whole corner had an inch more clearance all the way around.


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[Audibot]

I gotcha. You'll figure something out. Outstanding work!

[ShelbyM3]

🫣







Sigh


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[Audibot]

Ugh that sucks!

[danspach]

😒

Right on schedule. Sucko. Sorry Shelby.

[SleeperA6]

Trans fluid?

[ShelbyM3]

Thanks Guys. It took the wind out of my sails. I don’t want to rebuild a CV right now. Ugh!

I initially thought it could be gear oil, this is the passenger’s rear axle, but the more I thought about it the more I’m convinced it’s just liquified grease. The rear diff has an axle cup like the transmission so if it were gear oil it could not make its way into the boot. There’s also no signs of leaking up inside the axle shield closer to the differential, it’s all on the outside of the shield and down the axle shaft.

My friend Rog suggested that because of the air suspension and me putting her on the ground recently, which was almost literally on the ground because it’s been 4.5 years, that maybe the boot traveled farther than it should which allowed the old grease a pathway out. There’s no clamp on the small end of the inner boot, and the large end has a flange that bolts to the CV and axle cup.

Regardless, I’ve got a couple inner boots coming and a whole bunch of axle bolts. Time to learn a new skill.


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[LZ9ROAD]

Thanks Guys. It took the wind out of my sails. I don’t want to rebuild a CV right now. Ugh!

I initially thought it could be gear oil, this is the passenger’s rear axle, but the more I thought about it the more I’m convinced it’s just liquified grease. The rear diff has an axle cup like the transmission so if it were gear oil it could not make its way into the boot. There’s also no signs of leaking up inside the axle shield closer to the differential, it’s all on the outside of the shield and down the axle shaft.

My friend Rog suggested that because of the air suspension and me putting her on the ground recently, which was almost literally on the ground because it’s been 4.5 years, that maybe the boot traveled farther than it should which allowed the old grease a pathway out. There’s no clamp on the small end of the inner boot, and the large end has a flange that bolts to the CV and axle cup.

Regardless, I’ve got a couple inner boots coming and a whole bunch of axle bolts. Time to learn a new skill.


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Its not too bad, it just gets really messy, I've rebuilt the fronts too many times, wish I had more info for you on the rear, haven't had to touch them in a while!

[ShelbyM3]

I found this YouTube video and it’s the exact job I need to do. Sweet!

https://youtu.be/YWq6XAPJczw?si=IUoViOtIQ0ncPxJC


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[jbain2]

Rebuilding the cv joints is pretty straightforward. I remember the first one I did I was pretty nervous thinking to myself that I was rebuilding an axle. It turned our fine. I’ve done several more since.


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[ShelbyM3]

Special delivery…!







I should get my FCP shipment tomorrow with the differential case cover o-rings and axle seals. Hopefully I can bang this out pretty quickly this weekend with the help of my wife’s grandma.


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[ShelbyM3]

Rebuilding the cv joints is pretty straightforward. I remember the first one I did I was pretty nervous thinking to myself that I was rebuilding an axle. It turned our fine. I’ve done several more since.


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It’s the fear of the unknown that always gets me anxious. I also just want to start driving her so I can start breaking in the clutch. I’m going to have a hard time being patient there and having to refresh the rear axle is just one more annoying tedious cleaning job I’m OVER. Haha.

The gentleman who made the video I just linked above has a couple on axle rebuilds. Looks like a piece of cake with the knowledge.


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[ShelbyM3]

Last pieces in. The CPS is for project Dona. And, the old dude uses a lot of brass drifts on these aluminum parts so I said “why not!?” I had an Amazon gift card from my birthday unused.





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[ShelbyM3]

Done did the deed, Dudes. Pulled the axle out by cranking the steering wheel and locking the ignition. She’ll slip out. Looks like my gasket slipped, too. Womp.




Drained out the good good.




Pulled out the axle cup with the 6mm Allen bolt.




Axles cup shaft seal has seen better days and leaked at some point. I later found more RTV on this seal, but this was from a whole different set of hands than the monster who accosted Dana. Grrrr.






Absolutely no tone ring. I felt very vindicated and not crazy.
It was here than I realized I could probably sneak in the tone ring without removing the case cover. It just barely would slip slip slip in up to the seal. Cool cool. Time to remove the old seal.






Tone ring slipped right into place with a little persuasion. It was a snug fit. I also slid the VSS sensor in and made sure it still fit properly. I connected everything and made sure the heat shield and harness were solid while I had good access.




New seal in. First I pressed it in by hand and got it flush. Then I used the old seal and a rubber mallet to get it down. Lastly I put my new 1/4” drift to use and tapped it home. It was perfect and needed. The old seal started seating because it is so deep into the case.



Install in reverse order. 6mm Allen for the axle cup is 10Nm plus 1/4 turn. The differential case cover bolts are 25Nm and 5 of them were actually loose when I checked them. Cool cool. Love this stuff! Thankfully that puppy is on there with the o-ring. Which now that I think about it was probably just reused and it’s holding. Tell your friends. The inner CV we’re torqued to 57Nm because I’m super strong. Lastly I torqued the outter CV axle bolt to 200Nm plus 1/2 turn with my new 48” breaker bar. It worked really well!






Time to clear the codes and go for a rip, Bud. I’ll report back with a plethora of things. Guys, I’m almost done with this…part…

Honesty corner: I almost got an S6, but I didn’t and I’m really bummed about it. Someone else got it and I feel like a failure. I will let you know when I’ve recovered from that. K, bye. I have an opportunity to get another V8 Allroad and I’m debating taking a stab at it. It’s supposedly got 50,000 miles and it’s only been dealer serviced. That’s all I know besides its black with texture flared and bumpers. I don’t know if I want it that badly now, though. After that S6, I feel so confused. I also have always wanted an RS6. Maybe I get this clunker and do the deed, Dudes…but I’d need to sell one of the Dirty D’s. Ok, I’m done


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[ShelbyM3]

Success!!! Took her for a little rip around the block and then rinsed off the 5 years of dust…Atlas was looking pretty Alpaca there





All 3 gals are currently playing musical battery tenders. I need some batteries. Anyone have a recommendation that’s affordable, but quality?


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[V1nny]

I had good experience with Costco batteries and their exchange policy. Not sure true or not, but heard our cars are designed for old school lead battery, and newer AGM batteries would be slightly undercharged. I think starting with either B6 or B7 there is a choice in VCDS between battery types, but our are too old and do not have that variable charging voltage circuitry. I ended up replacing perfectly good alternator, and trying to sell my old one at pretty much any price: https://www.ebay.com/itm/276839636477

[ShelbyM3]

I had good experience with Costco batteries and their exchange policy. Not sure true or not, but heard our cars are designed for old school lead battery, and newer AGM batteries would be slightly undercharged. I think starting with either B6 or B7 there is a choice in VCDS between battery types, but our are too old and do not have that variable charging voltage circuitry. I ended up replacing perfectly good alternator, and trying to sell my old one at pretty much any price: https://www.ebay.com/itm/276839636477

Thanks for the tip V1nny. I appreciate it.


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[ShelbyM3]

I think I’m gonna run the engine covers, minus the valve cover covers.


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[ShelbyM3]

After bed time I went for a 25 mile shake down drive. Filled the tank with some premium and reset all my driving data.


I only ran into one issue and that is that my driver’s side intercooler has either cracked the washer fluid reservoir or it’s pushing the pump up and out of its seal because I went to fill it in the parking lot of my local WalMart and it ended up on my shoes. It at least held enough to turn off the instrument cluster warning light. I have a feeling it’s the pump because it must have popped out a dozen times during my fitting the intercooler.

I now have zero warning lights on the cluster, woo.


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[Audibot]

There are definitely worse problems to have. Great progress!

[ShelbyM3]

There are definitely worse problems to have. Great progress!

Thanks!


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[ShelbyM3]

Coincidently I had a smallll panic attack this morning. Fit the belly pan from Project Dena on to Project Dana because I’m going for another drive today with my boys and I want to keep her clean. It’s been raining/snowing here and there. Anyway, after fitting the belly pan I fired her up to the sound of what I thought was a failed bearing. I went right to power steering and re-bled that system. All was well. Still the sound. Eventually I decided it was my alternator based on my ear. Then I googled if a shit battery can make an alternator whine, which the AI Google Machine told me “Yes.” So I swapped batteries from Project Dena to Project Dana, I stand on the lock carrier and fender, and the noise went away. Phew! About lost my marbles thinking a roller for the timing belt went bad on me over night!

I’m getting a new battery for her today.

[ShelbyM3]

Weird cold start idle sound: https://youtube.com/shorts/mFYLUnq7L...BrsLHOkv4P8qE8

I initially thought it was power steering. Re-bled that and it persisted. My ear tells me it’s from the lower passenger’s side so alternator.

After swapping batteries with Project Dena: https://youtube.com/shorts/8TlMrR74p...CIchQ5xPt_-1JA

Random “Brake” light flashing and beeping on cluster while shifting from 1-2: https://youtube.com/shorts/O0v7W1Mv6...FyUNyrW3aWjzqk


Any thoughts or ideas are greatly appreciated. I have since swapped in a brand new battery and the drive home from that was uneventful. About to head to Audi Wilsonville to grab some special order parts and we’ll see how that goes


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[ShelbyM3]

Ok, so I’ve put just shy of 100 miles on Project Dana and I’m running into an electrical gremlin. Womp. I randomly get the “Brake” light flashing on the cluster and beeping 3 times. It goes away. I thought this was a poor battery issue so I swapped batteries and it persisted. Today I put a brand new battery in and it happened again on my drive home from Audi. Double womp. I finally got a code and it’s a code I’ve had before.

Engine Control Module - 18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30 P1602 - Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

Google searching reveals a lot of talks about poor batteries, but mine is brand new. I ALWAYS get the light when I’m shifting, which is odd. Mostly from 1-2, but 2-3 happened as well. It’s come on maybe 10-15 times in the 100 miles of casual in-town driving. Super disappointing.

So I’ve checked off that a C5 needs battery adaptations because it doesn’t. I’ve read about steering angle calibration and also throttle body calibration. I may try those. Any other thoughts or ideas to try? I installed a brand new alternator, but maybe it’s bad or shot from carrying the load of my 13 year old battery I had in there. It hasn’t whined all day since I installed a better battery. I’m so close, but so far.



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[ShelbyM3]

So turns out the random sound I’m hearing is my timing covers rubbing on my cam gear. Hopefully easy enough to fix.

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[heartmys4]

The brakes and master cylinder share the same reservoir, right? Have you checked the fluid level?

[Calif_Kid]

I finally got a code and it’s a code I’ve had before.

Engine Control Module - 18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30 P1602 - Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
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I believe that that code is just because you disconnected the battery. After you put in the new battery, you could go into VCDS and see the above code, and then clear it and it should not reappear.

- Jim

[LZ9ROAD]

I believe that that code is just because you disconnected the battery. After you put in the new battery, you could go into VCDS and see the above code, and then clear it and it should not reappear.

- Jim

Jim is Correct, clear it, go into ABS as well, clear faults that were there before you swapped in the VSS as it's probably still stored in there from the first drive. Check fluid level too, as if it's too low it can cause the flashing brake light in my experience. As long you didn't run the Master dry during any bleeding process, I wouldn't except the module to just die outright..

[ShelbyM3]

The brakes and master cylinder share the same reservoir, right? Have you checked the fluid level?

I’m embarrassed to admit I hadn’t. I eventually did and I added one hundred and twenty mL of fluid to get to max. I bet that was it. As I was shifting the fluid would slosh and trip the sensor. I’m such an idiot!


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[ShelbyM3]

Here’s my Passenger’s timing cover how I had it. It’s clearly pulling away from the head because of tension from the bi-pipe. Thanks to my buddy Joe for the help.



I made some spacers and ditched the broken bracket to the timing cover and sinched her down. This should fix my rubbing and “howling” issue I was experiencing.


Spacing the bi-pipe out actually gave me more room for the intercooler and freed up wiggle room with the A/C dryer and its lines. Score!




I’m feeling really foolish today. Thanks for the help Joe, and everyone here! I think Rog may be correct that I was throwing that code for terminal 30 from bad batteries. Fingers crossed it all works well on my commute to work tomorrow.


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