Common problems?

[Novarider]

Are there any common problems specific to the B6? I am looking for an A4 and I don't know if it will be a B6 or B7. I know the B7's have oil consumption issues, anything like that for the B6's?

[blitz2190]

the b6's are pretty good engines(much better than the 2.0's, I think, also assuming your looking at the 1.8 which may not be the case), but they do have there issues, almost all electrical as the harnesses are now old and brittle.
The wires near the coil packs loose there insulation and short which is very common but an easy fix.
The rear coolant flange is a very common failure as the plastic warps and leaks(there is now a metal version that should fix that).
They sludge up if the owner did not stay up on oil changes and up the oil filter size.
The factory pcv system and vacuum lines will almost certainly need to be refreshed if not already done.

so those are the things I would start with, as always the more paper work showing work done and maintained the better but also more expensive.

[Schwebe]

In either case make sure that the timing belt and water pump service has been done recently or you will need to budget that into the cost. When I purchased mine the owner said he did the timing service 10k miles ago but he had no proof so I just did everything to make sure. Of course I then found out he did not do any timing or water pump maintenance....service records sell in my opinion.

[rocket1420]

Nearly positive it's the B8 2.0s that have oil consumption issues, not the B7. Are you looking at turbo or NA? Manual or auto?

[walky_talky20]

The roof gutters rust on the B6. Kind of a weird issue they have that can be involved and expensive to fix. Also sometimes the front fenders and near the door blades.

They eat window regulators, although I assume these are the same parts as the B7. Failure of all 4 regulators before 100k miles is not unheard of.

The beeper in the cluster (low fuel, oil pressure, overheat, service, etc) tends to fail on the B6.

The backup batteries in the alarm siren fail over time. If caught late the corrosion can kill the circuit board.

Dashboard soft-touch paint wears off the buttons and switches in the B6. The B7 has revised coating that holds up better.

B6 seems to have trouble often with fuel pump and/or fuel filter (with integral pressure regulator). B7 of course has it's own fuel system issues (cam follower).

Glove box hinge has failed. On every B6. All of them.

The entire B6 cup holder situation is beyond terrible.

Headliner falls down with age.

FM Reception issues are very common due to expensive antenna booster cracking and failing.

[Schwebe]

How did you perfectly describe my car in one post...

[walky_talky20]

^Because I just asked my brother to describe his B6!

[rocket1420]

Stay away from the CVT (auto FWD).

[rocket1420]

I mean, if you buy a poorly maintained B6 1.8TQ, expect to replace:
All 8 front control arms.
Tie rods
Prop shaft seal
Rear coolant flange and temp sensor
Valve cover gasket
Thermostat
Coil packs
Coil pack wiring
Coolant expansion tank
PCV system
SAI related issues (pump, Combi valve, hoses)
ABS module will need to be rebuilt.
It's unlikely the middle display in the dash will work when it's hot out.
Sunroof drains will need cleaned.
You'll want to replace the center console with a B7 one to get one functional cup holder.

[Novarider]

Nearly positive it's the B8 2.0s that have oil consumption issues, not the B7. Are you looking at turbo or NA? Manual or auto?

Looking at turbo. I would like manual but auto wouldn't be a deal breaker.

[walky_talky20]

If you go auto, make sure you go quattro.

[customa4]

If you go auto, make sure you go quattro.

This ^^

[Novarider]

I definitely want Quattro. Does Quattro not come in manual?

[Charles.waite]

the b6's are pretty good engines(much better than the 2.0's, I think)

Thems fightin' words!

But you're not wrong ... from certain point of view.

Nearly positive it's the B8 2.0s that have oil consumption issues, not the B7. Are you looking at turbo or NA? Manual or auto?

Also this. Its the b8s not the b7s. The b7s have cam follower issues which are similarly severe...

[MetalMan]

I definitely want Quattro. Does Quattro not come in manual?

Quattro comes in manual or auto.

Also note that 2002-2003 1.8T Quattro manual are 5-speed, and 2004-2005 are 6-speed.

[Charles.waite]

I definitely want Quattro. Does Quattro not come in manual?

They both come with manual. What he's saying is the FWD autos were all the CVT transmission which is a pile of junk that fails in under 100k and costs a shitload to replace/fix. Stay very far away from any auto fwd b6 (or b7 for that matter...really any fwd auto Audi in general).

Personally I would lean towards the 6-speed because they highway cruise much much better.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Most common problem with the B6 is that you will eventually have more money into maintenance than the car is worth. Thinking about modding? Double it.

[Novarider]

Most common problem with the B6 is that you will eventually have more money into maintenance than the car is worth. Thinking about modding? Double it.

Doesn't that apply to every car? I don't buy cars worrying about resale value later. I drive them to basically end of life. My current car (95 240sx) has 300k miles. Still drive it daily with few problems

[Novarider]

Thems fightin' words!

But you're not wrong ... from certain point of view.



Also this. Its the b8s not the b7s. The b7s have cam follower issues which are similarly severe...

Why is the 1.8 better than the 2.0?

[Chris M]

my b6 achellis heal has been the ac system. replaced 4 times.

[Novarider]

my b6 achellis heal has been the ac system. replaced 4 times.

Ouch. We're the parts under warranty?

[walky_talky20]

Why is the 1.8 better than the 2.0?

Because the 1.8T does not have direct injection (FSI or TFSI), which it seems Audi still does not know how to implement properly. They have trouble with the high pressure fuel pumps, clogging up the intake valves, etc. Not to mention the other engine issues with timing chain failures, rear main seals, PCV. The list goes on. The 1.8T is very much a "known quantity". Keep the timing belt and oil changed on time and you can run them to 300k. The clogging of the oil pickup is the main 1.8T issue, so an oil pressure gauge is not the worst idea. But boost gauges are way more fun, so people tend to do those instead. lol

[BARRY]

i currently own 2 B6's and have owned a total of 4...BEST CAR EVER.

maintenance is well documented here, and many like Charles.waite, diagnosticator, and Old Guy know their stuff and are here to help. don't be afraid, AUDI starting with the B6 improved drastically in the reliability aspect. AUDI of all European auto brands is now ranked the highest in reliability and satisfaction.

[blitz2190]

Because the 1.8T does not have direct injection (FSI or TFSI), which it seems Audi still does not know how to implement properly. They have trouble with the high pressure fuel pumps, clogging up the intake valves, etc. Not to mention the other engine issues with timing chain failures, rear main seals, PCV. The list goes on. The 1.8T is very much a "known quantity". Keep the timing belt and oil changed on time and you can run them to 300k. The clogging of the oil pickup is the main 1.8T issue, so an oil pressure gauge is not the worst idea. But boost gauges are way more fun, so people tend to do those instead. lol

sitting at 230k and running strong, just did another timing belt job. OP with the 1.8 get a bigger oil filter and change the oil every 5K you'll never have oil issues as long as its currently not sludged and you use a good oil (may not always be audi certified such as T6)

Thems fightin' words!

But you're not wrong ... from certain point of view.
.

[Biged243]

B7- 05-07 earlier revision cam more prone to killing the cam follower 08 revised cam but still need to keep an eye on the follower. Some of the 2.0 had bad oil consumption due to the oil rings were install upside down from the factory in Mexico. The earlier dv tends to rip. Clogged drain holes can create problems typicall in the sunroof but other areas too. Can have electrical problems. Tips (trans) are prone to vibrate more, suppose to be "lifetime fluid" but it should be changed and a very particular steps are needed to be done to change the fluid. Completely avoid any cvt. PVC system and the coolant flange in the back of the head. Rear timing chain tensioner and the cam sensor? back there in the same area n205? A few other things. There are many similarities between the b6/7. Similar problems too.

[Novarider]

Is there a "best" year B6?

[rocket1420]

Is there a "best" year B6?

The 02 3.0 Quattro manual came with the 01E transmission. Best manual they made AFAIK.

If you don't care about that, the 04 or 05 is probably "best." The fuel pumps on 04+ were revised and are less likely to fail. The 1.8T manuals were 6 speeds. Not sure about the 3.0s.

[Spike00513]

The 02 3.0 Quattro manual came with the 01E transmission. Best manual they made AFAIK.

I wanna know why. Out of curiosity. Because I just happened to never drive that variant yet.
I think someone on B5 S4 subforum might've said his shifting felt more like an agricultural tractor. I'm not sure if that was caused by gear oil choice, abused 2nd shift collar, slop, worn synchros, or what.

Or any others actually. Like early 01A 5spd.
Or the 0A3 that comes on the S4 and RS4. And I hear there are even further differences, within the type, such as 0A3. 0A3 is a type.

I'm not sure which Torsen center diff is in it. T2 or T3. Or what that even really means, honestly.
For example, I heard that on the R8 AND RS4, they tried to make it more rear-biased for handling, and to help control the car with the throttle.
I'm not sure if the A4 feels like the front pulls it more in a straight line, or if the RS4 feels more like a push from the back wheels.

And I hear they went even further on the B7 S4 25quattro edition. There is even a partout for one of those right now. I read that it can send up to 100% of the power to any single wheel.

The fuel pumps on 04+ were revised and are less likely to fail.

Did not know that.

The 1.8T manuals were 6 speeds. Not sure about the 3.0s.

04-05 3L is GJV 02X-type 3.889:1 Final Drive Ratio.

Be careful to not use the infamous old not-yet-fixed Jet Jockey ratio chart post, because it has a typo where it accidentally switches GJV (3L) and GJW (1.8T).
No offense but where would you rather get your information source from. Audi themselves? (ELSAwin)
Or somebody typing on a forum.
Murphy's Law. What can go wrong, will go wrong. Anyway, I digress.
My point about that is, I don't care what someone on a forum says. I care that I can go climb under my car right now and see the code literally engraved right there on the gearbox.

I am not blaming people. Just warning you to be careful so that you don't break your car.

[Chemmie]

Stay away from the CVT (auto FWD).

BS. Most of (if not all) the issues are due to owners not having a clue, and these transmissions being extremely sensitive to maintenance. Otherwise, clueless owner goes to an equally clueless shop who spouts off about a $6000+ transmission swap and then clueless owner posts on a forum and gets a series of "hellz ya dems da CVT" from equally clueless spectators. If you drive it in semi-auto, it'll kill it definitely. But then wtf did you buy an auto for?

Get a CEL, solder a G182 on the TCM and you're back in business. I read far more about tiptronics failing than the CVT's. Quit perpetuating myths! You're killing my resale value.

[Spike00513]

BS. Most of (if not all) the issues are due to owners not having a clue, and these transmissions being extremely sensitive to maintenance. Otherwise, clueless owner goes to an equally clueless shop who spouts off about a $6000+ transmission swap and then clueless owner posts on a forum and gets a series of "hellz ya dems da CVT" from equally clueless spectators.

Get a CEL, solder a G182 on the TCM and you're back in business. I read far more about tiptronics failing than the CVT's. Quit perpetuating myths! You're killing my resale value.

looks like Engineering Explained has one on CVT (and turbo engines too), but haven't watched yet.

[rocket1420]

BS. Most of (if not all) the issues are due to owners not having a clue, and these transmissions being extremely sensitive to maintenance. Otherwise, clueless owner goes to an equally clueless shop who spouts off about a $6000+ transmission swap and then clueless owner posts on a forum and gets a series of "hellz ya dems da CVT" from equally clueless spectators. If you drive it in semi-auto, it'll kill it definitely. But then wtf did you buy an auto for?

Get a CEL, solder a G182 on the TCM and you're back in business. I read far more about tiptronics failing than the CVT's. Quit perpetuating myths! You're killing my resale value.

He's buying a used, unknown quantity. Why bother with that? It's not like they sell new B6s at the dealership anymore. You said yourself, you have to be very meticulous with them. Would you gamble with a B6 CVT that you know absolutely nothing about other than mileage, which is very likely well over 100k+ at this point? The OP is clearly trying to avoid any potential headaches. Buying a CVT is a big one. Quattros are easy and relatively cheap to do routine maintenance on, ie fluid and filter change. How much does it cost you for just the filter in your CVT?

[rocket1420]

I wanna know why. Out of curiosity. Because I just happened to never drive that variant yet.
I think someone on B5 S4 subforum might've said his shifting felt more like an agricultural tractor. I'm not sure if that was caused by gear oil choice, abused 2nd shift collar, slop, worn synchros, or what.

Or any others actually. Like early 01A 5spd.
Or the 0A3 that comes on the S4 and RS4. And I hear there are even further differences, within the type, such as 0A3. 0A3 is a type.

I'm not sure which Torsen center diff is in it. T2 or T3. Or what that even really means, honestly.
For example, I heard that on the R8 AND RS4, they tried to make it more rear-biased for handling, and to help control the car with the throttle.
I'm not sure if the A4 feels like the front pulls it more in a straight line, or if the RS4 feels more like a push from the back wheels.

And I hear they went even further on the B7 S4 25quattro edition. There is even a partout for one of those right now. I read that it can send up to 100% of the power to any single wheel.



Did not know that.



04-05 3L is GJV 02X-type 3.889:1 Final Drive Ratio.

Be careful to not use the infamous old not-yet-fixed Jet Jockey ratio chart post, because it has a typo where it accidentally switches GJV (3L) and GJW (1.8T).
No offense but where would you rather get your information source from. Audi themselves? (ELSAwin)
Or somebody typing on a forum.
Murphy's Law. What can go wrong, will go wrong. Anyway, I digress.
My point about that is, I don't care what someone on a forum says. I care that I can go climb under my car right now and see the code literally engraved right there on the gearbox.

I am not blaming people. Just warning you to be careful so that you don't break your car.

Right, 04-05. Just like I said in my post. I have no idea to which chart you are referring. I just know that 04-05 1.8T quattros can have a six-speed manual transmission, which is what I said.

You've been on here a long time. I don't know how you don't know that the 01E transmission is built with far beefier parts than anything else for the B6 chassis, especially the 1.8T 6 speeds (which, to reiterate, are 04-05 models).

If forums are such a waste of time, why do you bother posting here? After all, everything there ever is to know about the B6 platform is apparently in ELSAwin. Does it really have common parts that fail, broken down by MY, and full troubleshooting information?

"0A3 is a type." And?

[Charles.waite]

Because the 1.8T does not have direct injection (FSI or TFSI), which it seems Audi still does not know how to implement properly. They have trouble with the high pressure fuel pumps, clogging up the intake valves, etc. Not to mention the other engine issues with timing chain failures, rear main seals, PCV. The list goes on. The 1.8T is very much a "known quantity". Keep the timing belt and oil changed on time and you can run them to 300k. The clogging of the oil pickup is the main 1.8T issue, so an oil pressure gauge is not the worst idea. But boost gauges are way more fun, so people tend to do those instead. lol

this.

[customa4]

He's buying a used, unknown quantity. Why bother with that? It's not like they sell new B6s at the dealership anymore. You said yourself, you have to be very meticulous with them. Would you gamble with a B6 CVT that you know absolutely nothing about other than mileage, which is very likely well over 100k+ at this point? The OP is clearly trying to avoid any potential headaches. Buying a CVT is a big one. Quattros are easy and relatively cheap to do routine maintenance on, ie fluid and filter change. How much does it cost you for just the filter in your CVT?

I bought my CVT at 52K. It was dead by 104K...

[rocket1420]

I bought my CVT at 52K. It was dead by 104K...

Chemmie is the one advocating CVTs.

[Gin+]

My wife's b7 2.0t goes through some oil at 100k, about 1 quart every 2-3k. Haven't really investigated so it could be PCV related. My b6 1.8t barely burns a drop at 175k.

If I were looking for a project (fun) car I'd shoot for a b6. If I were looking for a daily driver then the b7 wins by a long shot.

[Novarider]

My wife's b7 2.0t goes through some oil at 100k, about 1 quart every 2-3k. Haven't really investigated so it could be PCV related. My b6 1.8t barely burns a drop at 175k.

If I were looking for a project (fun) car I'd shoot for a b6. If I were looking for a daily driver then the b7 wins by a long shot.

Why? I would prefer my daily driver be fun to drive but I don't want a project

[CyberPMG]

I've spent this year chasing down oil leaks as the seals started to fail and find the next weakest point. While my car does have 354k miles on it, the engine and transmission only have 110k miles on it. Started with replacing the front cam seal, then the rear. After that, the oil pan gasket followed by the oil pressure sensor (common weak point). Then another oil sensor to finish the round of seals going bad.

Last year, I spent time chasing down coolant leaks as the original hoses started going bad. Those all got replaced.

The 1.8T, if properly maintained, can last a very long time reliably. My original engine lasted 237k miles. Only reason it died was the oil pump slowly going bad and starving the engine causing the valves to stick and wear down the cams. The oil pressure was enough not to trigger any alarms, and the oil level was always good.

There's a few items that are known weak points with the B6 A4. The lower control arms/tie rod ends/etc. typically last around 100k or so miles. The check valves become brittle and crack. Same for any hard plastic pipes in the engine bay. Good to check the condition of the hoses (vacuum and coolant). These are mainly age related issues.

As long as you stay on top of maintenance, it should still be a good car.

Maintenance:
- Oil change every 5k miles (with approved synthetic oil and large capacity oil filter)
- If not already done, convert over to the 2.0T TFSI ignition coils (and spacer) and matching spark plugs for better reliability
- Brake fluid change every 2 years regardless of miles (DOT4 only)
- Full timing belt service (timing belt, accessory belt, tensioner, valve cover gasket, coolant flush) every 60-70k miles for the 1.8T and every 70-80k miles for the 3.0
- Fuel filter replacement every 60k miles (this tends to clog up and burn out the fuel pump)
- Transmission fluid change every 100k miles
- Differential fluid change every 100k miles

Rest is repair/replace on an as-needed basis due to wear and tear.

[Novarider]

Which check valves are you referring to?

[Gin+]

Why? I would prefer my daily driver be fun to drive but I don't want a project

For starters, the B7 has a more powerful engine in stock form, better brakes, and adaptive steering. Depending on the trim level, you could have the option to have adaptive bi-xenons, power passenger seat, rain sensing wipers, etc. If you were interested in an automatic, the b7 gives you a decent 6 speed.

That said, I like the simplicity of the tuning potential of the 1.8t and the body lines of the b6 more than the b7.