Push to Start Issue? Official Extended Slave Cylinder Thread (aka Ghetto Spacer Fix)

[Jay@JXB]

Thanks. I actually replaces the master and it didnt fix anything. Now I got the push to start issue and I just replaced the slave a few months ago.

One thing I didnt mention, the noise stops when I lightly put pressure on the clutch. Is it possible the pedal needs adjusted ?

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk

Hmm that honestly sounds like more of a throw out bearing issue :/

Basically if when the system is totally unloaded there’s a noise that goes away with load, the only thing that sits unloaded is the TOB. Definitely possible it’s something else but strange noises under no clutch load are very often TOB.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[6SpeedS4]

Hmm that honestly sounds like more of a throw out bearing issue :/

Basically if when the system is totally unloaded there’s a noise that goes away with load, the only thing that sits unloaded is the TOB. Definitely possible it’s something else but strange noises under no clutch load are very often TOB.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm not good. Sent you a pm for the extended slave.

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk

[6SpeedS4]

Following up here in case anyone runs into the same issue regarding the vacuum like noise i heard coming from the master cylinder area.

I ended up replacing the ECS stainless clutch line with an USP line. For whatever reason this has fixed the issue. One thing I noticed is the USP line had a different fitting for the master and was marked accordingly.

Also, for anyone attempting this, I went thru the grommet right under the master which was much easier than going under the booster as I did the first time.

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk

[SconnieRoadie]

+1 on the thanks to JBullin! Got my slave installed yesterday and I couldn't be more pleased with the results.

Sconnie

[Sunhilda]

Hi guys, noob here (although been reading for a couple years). I have a 2013 6MT s4, and based on research, believe I’m in need of one of jbullin2’s special slaves. I tried to message you, Jay, but don’t think I meet the new user credentials to do so 🤷🏼*♂️. Please feel free to message me, if possible.

[jimrobbington]

Hi guys, noob here (although been reading for a couple years). I have a 2013 6MT s4, and based on research, believe I’m in need of one of jbullin2’s special slaves. I tried to message you, Jay, but don’t think I meet the new user credentials to do so *. Please feel free to message me, if possible.

@jbullin2

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[Krusty]

Hello Guys,

Modified my clutch cylinder rod, added about 7mm and all the issues are gone. No more pushing the clutch, also the clutch feels a lot smoother, a lot!!! Maybe the modified cylinder rod is properly pushing the fork and now everything is working properly. My shifting feels a lot better, before the upgrade 1st to 2nd to 3rd some times would feel a bit hard when under load, not any longer.

Anyways, if you have not done this you need to do it, clutch problems or not I believe.

[Mangoton]

@jbullin2 I tried to pm you about the extended slave rod but I'm not sure if you got my message. I got a 2012 B8 S4. Recently got a Southbend stage 2 with an ecs flywheel. Shifting to 4th gear has been wonky, so my mechanic recommended me to talk to you about the part?

[flightlessgreeb]

Just sent a PM on this as well! Really hoping I can nip this problem in the bud and get back to Fully Operational status.

[Jay@JXB]

Just sent a PM on this as well! Really hoping I can nip this problem in the bud and get back to Fully Operational status.

Messaged you back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[chi123]

Has anyone here gotten the push to start issue even after installing the extended slave cylinder? I installed the extended slave cylinder over the summer and had no problems with the push to start error. 10K miles later, I'm back to getting the issue again and have to push the clutch as far as it can go to start the car. I remember asking an Audi master tech about how the extended slave cylinder fixed the issue in the summer and he told me that it occurs simply because the pressure plate is wearing/failing and that the extra length of the rod is just compensating for it. Either way, seems like I'll need a new clutch soon but the extended slave was a good temporary fix.

[Jay@JXB]

Has anyone here gotten the push to start issue even after installing the extended slave cylinder? I installed the extended slave cylinder over the summer and had no problems with the push to start error. 10K miles later, I'm back to getting the issue again and have to push the clutch as far as it can go to start the car. I remember asking an Audi master tech about how the extended slave cylinder fixed the issue in the summer and he told me that it occurs simply because the pressure plate is wearing/failing and that the extra length of the rod is just compensating for it. Either way, seems like I'll need a new clutch soon but the extended slave was a good temporary fix.

Hey man PM me and I can get you a longer rod. Most only move so far and the normal extension is fine. There are a few extreme cases like yours where you just need some extra length. I have a couple extra long ones I reserve for people who normally can’t start their car altogether or cases like this where the overcompensation becomes extreme. No need to replace clutch as long as it’s still grabbing fine!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[NixonKB]

Jbullin2 is the man. :) Helped me solve my push to start issue temporarily, with long term fix enroute. The slave is EASY to access - don't be afraid to do this mod!

[Sunhilda]

Just to confirm what is already known:

JBullin’s extended slaves are legit. Had the clutch/start issue 20k miles ago, along with a timing chain issue. Replaced clutch at that time (@150k miles) and clutch start issue stopped, until about a month ago when it resumed and even worse than the first time.

I contacted JBullin late on a Thursday night, and he had a slave in the mail the following morning, and it arrived that Monday - he was easy and a pleasure to work with, and stands by his product.

The result: Slave is in and the issue is GONE. Clutch feel is great and the car is back to being a problem free rocket. I got so used to having the clutch buried in the floor board to start, and have tried multiple times with the clutch NOT depressed to the floor, and she still fires up immediately, first try,

I highly recommend this mod, and highly recommend Jay. Great guy, great product, great fix.

[DrGT]

Exact same comment / experience here. Very satisfied.
New slave installed for about a month. Problem never came back.
I still have to learn not to push the clutch through the floor ;-)

Just to confirm what is already known:

JBullin’s extended slaves are legit. Had the clutch/start issue 20k miles ago, along with a timing chain issue. Replaced clutch at that time (@150k miles) and clutch start issue stopped, until about a month ago when it resumed and even worse than the first time.

I contacted JBullin late on a Thursday night, and he had a slave in the mail the following morning, and it arrived that Monday - he was easy and a pleasure to work with, and stands by his product.

The result: Slave is in and the issue is GONE. Clutch feel is great and the car is back to being a problem free rocket. I got so used to having the clutch buried in the floor board to start, and have tried multiple times with the clutch NOT depressed to the floor, and she still fires up immediately, first try,

I highly recommend this mod, and highly recommend Jay. Great guy, great product, great fix.

[flightlessgreeb]

Just wanted to post a thank you to JBullin! I took the part in to my local shop and they completely didn't believe me that it would fix my issue. They were convinced I was wasting time/money because the hall effect sensor is in the master not the slave. idk if it's because I'm a woman or w/e but I stood my ground and had them install the part and it completely fixed the issue! The master tech apologized to me when I went to pick the car up and only charged me a diagnostic fee to do the install.

Its been raining a lot lately and I don't have a garage plus I'm not super mechanically inclined etc etc thats my excuse for not doing the work myself lol

Anyway thanks again!

[BlackJon]

Amazing stuff here

Drive It Like You Stole It

[Jay@JXB]

Just wanted to post a thank you to JBullin! I took the part in to my local shop and they completely didn't believe me that it would fix my issue. They were convinced I was wasting time/money because the hall effect sensor is in the master not the slave. idk if it's because I'm a woman or w/e but I stood my ground and had them install the part and it completely fixed the issue! The master tech apologized to me when I went to pick the car up and only charged me a diagnostic fee to do the install.

Its been raining a lot lately and I don't have a garage plus I'm not super mechanically inclined etc etc thats my excuse for not doing the work myself lol

Anyway thanks again!

That’s an awesome story. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to talk to X shop/dealer tech directly to convince them to install the part in the customers car. “Yes I promise it will work” haha. Good for you holding your ground with them, bet they felt like a bunch of fools haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SteveYem]

Remove slave cylinder, take plastic cap off of the rod, purchase small ball bearing ( they fit perfectly on the end of the rod) replace plastic cap, reinstall slave cylinder. Done.

I haven’t taken out the slave cylinder yet to see the parts you’re referring to, but how secure is this black plastic cap and what’s the assurance that it doesn’t let a loose part (the ball bearing) fall into the transmission?

[OHIO_S4]

What pressure should I use during the bleed process?

My start/stop issue is so bad now at 125k miles that I even have trouble now during the summer weather.

Just bought the slave cylinder and a bleeder.

[Jay@JXB]

Use about 3-5 psi. You don’t need too much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[OHIO_S4]

Use about 3-5 psi. You don’t need too much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you. That was my order from last night, lol.

[OHIO_S4]

Ended up having the switch replaced at the dealer.

The charge was 2.2 hours including a brake fluid flush.

[Jay@JXB]

@nasif your messages are full can’t respond to your PM. Reach out at [email protected]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Senseless]

Coming up on 3 years of flawless operation with Jay's fix, now at 110,000 miles on the original clutch. I almost dropped $3000 to replace the clutch at 75,000 miles; damn. This problem should have been addressed earlier by the OEM, but at least there's a solution. Thanks again, Jay!

[Stuart little]

Is this 3-5PSI referring to the pressure of the air compressor tank? I ask as I ordered up a power bleeder and it says the PSI in requirement is 90-120PSI. Thanks ahead of time, going to try to install this extended slave I just got in the mail!

[Jay@JXB]

Is this 3-5PSI referring to the pressure of the air compressor tank? I ask as I ordered up a power bleeder and it says the PSI in requirement is 90-120PSI. Thanks ahead of time, going to try to install this extended slave I just got in the mail!

Yes 3-5 psi in the tank. Most of us use a hand-pump pressure bleeder.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[madoku]

[mention]jbullin2 [/mention] I’m sure you do great work, but you can’t just ship stuff like this and charge people $120



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jay@JXB]

[mention]jbullin2 [/mention] I’m sure you do great work, but you can’t just ship stuff like this and charge people $120



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry it arrived like that; it's definitely not typical for USPS to damage shipments like that.

I would like to respond to the "charge people $120 comment". Most people (myself included until I started doing it) don't realize the true cost of a product like this, so I'll break it down:

Sachs SH6514 slave cylinder - $55 and nobody ever has enough in stock so I bounce around from one seller to the next to get enough.
Length of tube - $2 of material plus shipping
Shipping - $4 because it weighs just under 8oz. With another box it would be $1 for the box and $2 more to the shipping cost.
PayPal fees - 3% = $3.60

Total $64.60 or $67.60 with another box.

Time:
Unpackage slave, unbox - 2 mins
Cut the tube to length and chamfer edges - 2 mins
Cut the rod in half, slide into sleeve, make 4 crimps - 3 mins
Repackage - 1 min
Print shipping label and apply, send tracking, mark order fulfilled through website, transfer money from paypal to bank account - 5 min

Total: 13 mins, probably closer to 15 with getting things set up, shopping around for companies that actually have slaves in stock at reasonable prices.

Here's the big one though. Explaining to everybody how this thing works. I used to spend at least an average of 20 mins, sometimes hours, walking people through why their car isn't starting, exactly how the whole hydraulic system interacts with the start switch in the master cylinder, how the geometry changes over time, and then how to actually install it, and troubleshooting when they're having problems bleeding the system (also you wouldn't believe the number of people that lead me down rabbitholes saying the car still won't start and it turns out they did a slave line install at the same time and knocked the sensor loose in the master cylinder). Now I at least have a website to point to with some good information to save my thumbs. On top of that, I'm now the resident clutch system expert (somehow lol), and I field tons of unrelated questions every time something's wrong with someone's clutch. I always answer questions, and I never ignore people. Most of the time those interactions don't lead to a sale.

So at the end I'm left with $55 to show for anywhere from 15 minutes to well over an hour of time on a $120 product, and that money is taxed of course too. If you asked any of the big companies if they'd bother with a product like this knowing the time commitment, they'd tell you you're out of your mind. Resellers want at least 30% just to do customer service and fulfill orders. Companies like ECS and 034 are clearing 50-70% on their own products, without nearly the time commitment of a product like this.

TL:DR, I'll consider double boxing them. The slave is very robust and would be very hard to break in the box unless a seriously heavy sharp thing was placed on it. It's too light to hurt itself. If there is damage, I'd certainly replace it no questions asked. To date I haven't had an issue with product damage.

Sorry to go on my soapbox; this is the first thing I ever did to push this platform, and it's very dear to my heart. It's not worth my time from an accounting standpoint, but it's a huge benefit to the community (who often is faced with the option of this or a new clutch), which has shown me fantastic support the last 7 years while I built my car from bone stock to one of the fastest autocross cars in the country, and more recently supported my JXB Performance endeavors. I'm going to keep doing everything I can to keep people clutch problem free :)

-Jay-

[madoku]

Sorry it arrived like that; it's definitely not typical for USPS to damage shipments like that.

I would like to respond to the "charge people $120 comment". Most people (myself included until I started doing it) don't realize the true cost of a product like this, so I'll break it down:

Sachs SH6514 slave cylinder - $55 and nobody ever has enough in stock so I bounce around from one seller to the next to get enough.
Length of tube - $2 of material plus shipping
Shipping - $4 because it weighs just under 8oz. With another box it would be $1 for the box and $2 more to the shipping cost.
PayPal fees - 3% = $3.60

Total $64.60 or $67.60 with another box.

Time:
Unpackage slave, unbox - 2 mins
Cut the tube to length and chamfer edges - 2 mins
Cut the rod in half, slide into sleeve, make 4 crimps - 3 mins
Repackage - 1 min
Print shipping label and apply, send tracking, mark order fulfilled through website, transfer money from paypal to bank account - 5 min

Total: 13 mins, probably closer to 15 with getting things set up, shopping around for companies that actually have slaves in stock at reasonable prices.

Here's the big one though. Explaining to everybody how this thing works. I used to spend at least an average of 20 mins, sometimes hours, walking people through why their car isn't starting, exactly how the whole hydraulic system interacts with the start switch in the master cylinder, how the geometry changes over time, and then how to actually install it, and troubleshooting when they're having problems bleeding the system (also you wouldn't believe the number of people that lead me down rabbitholes saying the car still won't start and it turns out they did a slave line install at the same time and knocked the sensor loose in the master cylinder). Now I at least have a website to point to with some good information to save my thumbs. On top of that, I'm now the resident clutch system expert (somehow lol), and I field tons of unrelated questions every time something's wrong with someone's clutch. I always answer questions, and I never ignore people. Most of the time those interactions don't lead to a sale.

So at the end I'm left with $55 to show for anywhere from 15 minutes to well over an hour of time on a $120 product, and that money is taxed of course too. If you asked any of the big companies if they'd bother with a product like this knowing the time commitment, they'd tell you you're out of your mind. Resellers want at least 30% just to do customer service and fulfill orders. Companies like ECS and 034 are clearing 50-70% on their own products, without nearly the time commitment of a product like this.

TL:DR, I'll consider double boxing them. The slave is very robust and would be very hard to break in the box unless a seriously heavy sharp thing was placed on it. It's too light to hurt itself. If there is damage, I'd certainly replace it no questions asked. To date I haven't had an issue with product damage.

Sorry to go on my soapbox; this is the first thing I ever did to push this platform, and it's very dear to my heart. It's not worth my time from an accounting standpoint, but it's a huge benefit to the community (who often is faced with the option of this or a new clutch), which has shown me fantastic support the last 7 years while I built my car from bone stock to one of the fastest autocross cars in the country, and more recently supported my JXB Performance endeavors. I'm going to keep doing everything I can to keep people clutch problem free :)

-Jay-

Definitely didn't mean anything by the $120 comment, the main thing I wanted to convey here was the poor packaging and I would not have any problems paying more for the peace of mind knowing my package is secured properly - hell I'd pay the OEM price of $180+ without a second thought considering these things should last years. You clearly spent a lot of time creating this business, making a professional website with high quality products, and created a streamlined ordering experience, but all that hard work is thrown out the window when a customer receives their product in such a state.

With that said, the slave cylinder works well and I appreciate the efforts that went into fixing this problem; thank you!

[Scoop149]

Hi Jay, I am a new member experiencing this issue and wanted to inquire on how to purchase one of these.

[Jay@JXB]

Hi Jay, I am a new member experiencing this issue and wanted to inquire on how to purchase one of these.

Sent you a PM.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jay@JXB]

Hi Jay, I am a new member experiencing this issue and wanted to inquire on how to purchase one of these.

They’re at jxbperformance.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[greenturbo]

They’re at jxbperformance.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just ordered one, thanks Jay!

[Callandor]

Cross-posting this if you guys are in there messing with the slave:

Guys, just wanted to share an experience with my stainless steel USP line to avoid you getting stranded like I did.

O-ring failed on clutch line where it meets the slave. I pulled the line out and found that the o-rings had completely degraded after 10K miles.

I found that USP uses Viton (type of material) for their o-ring. Based on my research, Viton is NOT compatible with DOT4 fluid. I replaced it with a 010 (.375" OD, .25" ID) size EPDM o-ring.

Just a heads up, you may want to have a spare o-ring around. I am not saying that the improper material caused my failure, and maybe something else in my system did. Truthfully I had some indication a few days before hand (slow leak, clutch got much softer), before total failure but I was lazy getting under the car.

$0.03 part can leave you stranded. Something like this: https://www.grainger.com/product/FAB...ard-EPDM-1WND7

[Austinjross]

I didn't see if anyone had asked this already but would an extended slave be good for preventive maintenance? I'm not having any starting issues but I am about to do a clutch and lightweight flywheel job and I'm trying to decide if I should do this at the same time too

[Jay@JXB]

Yes, a lot of people replace them to restore smooth pedal feel and prevent the push to start issue. A lot of aftermarket clutches will cause it, but there’s generally no way to tell until it’s installed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jimrobbington]

Yup, it's a cheap way to avoid trouble in the long run imo

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[evanstonjohn]

Yup, it's a cheap way to avoid trouble in the long run imo

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Just a shout out to Jay who sells this solution. Worked like a charm and worth every penny and probably more. No more struggling and burying the clutch to get it started. Thanks

[RDMW13]

Hey guys, I’ve been experiencing this issue since I replaced my gearbox and I had my clutch replaced by Audi back in February.

Whilst I understand the reasoning behind using the extended slave, and clearly have plenty of testimonials in this thread that show it fixes the issue, I always come back to the same question that I can’t seem to get an answer to no matter who I ask or which thread I read:

Why did this issue not exist prior to Audi replacing my clutch?

I never had the issue in the 50k+ miles I drove my A5, from 55k to 105k miles. I took it to Audi and had a new OEM clutch + DMF put back in and Audi gave me back the car with this issue. I can’t get my head round WHY. What changed?!