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  1. #41
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
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    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

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    Anyway, update:

    Exhaust system has been ceramic coated and the downpipes have also been heat wrapped for extraness. The idea here is that the steal that XSPower makes their pipes out of may not be the best. So, in an attempt to get it to last longer: Ceramic coat it to keep it from rusting, then heat wrap it to protect the ceramic coating, then Hi-Temp Silicon treat the wrap to protect it. Overkill is just about enough; I always say...
    Anyway, the entire setup for the turbo back system, with coating, wrapping and silicone treatment cost less than $2000. Which is how much the dealer wanted to charge the PO for replacing just the pass. side downpipe (he took that much off the price of the car to help pay for it).




    According to DEI (the makers of the wrap), who I consulted; wraping the flex section of the downpipe is recommended in order to protect that section as well. As long as it is strapped before and after the section to keep it from moving too much.


    All will go in on the 17th, including the trans mounts.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  2. #42
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Started the exhaust replacement the other day. First of all, what the balls is going on here?

    It looks like the CV boot is leaking or spewing grease out the breather hole (no cracks of tears I could see anyway) as the shaft rotates. I wiped it all off and inspected, but didn't see anything. Any advice on whats going on would be great.

    Anyway, Took out the downpipes, which was not an easy task. In fact, it took two days just to get them out. Pro Tip: Make sure you have a 6mm hex socket on hand to remove the collar guard for the shaft. You just are not going to get to all four nuts holding the downpipes on with that damn collar in place.
    Took some pics of the turbos when they were exposed. Both look decent for 103k miles. One is a bit more weepy that the other (driver's) but not a lot of build up or carbon.




    No shots for the new pipes installed yet. I'm not arraid to admit, this was my first attempt at hanging an exhaust system, and I did not know what I was doing. With that said, I just cannot get the mid pipes aligned properly. I'm not sure if it's the XSPower kit not being bent properly, or just my inability to assemble them properly. But, I know the downpipes are installed properly; and the mid and rear silencers are hung properly...

    I will most likely take the car to a local shop and have them tweak the mid pipes to get them to fit better than current.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  3. #43
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 21 2017
    AZ Member #
    403354
    Location
    Wisconsin

    Love It!!! I'll be installing the same exhaust and mtx downpipes in the next week or so. How bad is the alignment of on the exhaust? !! I would say installing an exhaust system is easy peazy so it's probably not your fault that it's alignment is off

  4. #44
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Took the allroad to a local exhaust shop; confessed that I installed the system, but just couldn't get it installed right; asked if they could take a look and get it sorted out.

    They did, and they did. They needed to tweak one of the end pipes on the mid section ( cat replacement pipes) in order to get it to align with the next section. Some of the ceramic coating had to be removed to get the pipes to mate up better. but, since it was in the section that fits into the next pipe, I don't think it will effect anything. Cost me $100, but well worth it. They did find that one of the driver's side retaining nuts at the turbo outlet had come off. Guess I didn't tighten that one down enough. They replaced it and sent me on my way.




    I will say, these tips are ridiculously long. They cut off about 3 inches of the outlet pipe to get them to sit this far back. I'd suggest doing the same if you get this kit.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  5. #45
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 21 2017
    AZ Member #
    403354
    Location
    Wisconsin

    Yours looks like it fits better than mine did.. I had mine on Thursday evening.. Both mid pipes didn't fit, I had to add into one of them and cut length out of the other as well as cut at an angle and weld it back up,... The clamps they sent with the exhaust are horrible!! My rear mufflers no matter what I do will not hang even, I'll address that in the spring if it continues to bug me!! And you are right about those damn tips lol I cut about 3" out of them as well.. Otherwise the exhaust Sounds stock, not any louder than stock at all which is a disappointment, I don't want Loud but a little bit would have been nice, I'll be removing the mid pipes to see how loud it is in the spring also!!

  6. #46
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Quote Originally Posted by Boostthis89 View Post
    Yours looks like it fits better than mine did.. I had mine on Thursday evening.. Both mid pipes didn't fit, I had to add into one of them and cut length out of the other as well as cut at an angle and weld it back up,... The clamps they sent with the exhaust are horrible!! My rear mufflers no matter what I do will not hang even, I'll address that in the spring if it continues to bug me!! And you are right about those damn tips lol I cut about 3" out of them as well.. Otherwise the exhaust Sounds stock, not any louder than stock at all which is a disappointment, I don't want Loud but a little bit would have been nice, I'll be removing the mid pipes to see how loud it is in the spring also!!
    Yeah, I'm a little disappointed with the sound as well. I smidgen louder than stock, so not as loud as I was hoping. My Pass side muffler is hanging at a bit of an angle as well. Driver's is straight, but the Pass. is about 3 degrees to center. I'm sure the free flow of a cat-less system is probably better for the engine, but I expected a bit more sound. There is a bit of play in the muffler mount, so I think it will aling if I get down there and fiddle with it.

    I agree, the clamps are crap. Some barely fit while others are to tight to use. The guy I had align the system ended up just welding the mid pipes to the center collector pipes, and the tips to the mufflers, and throwing half the clamps in the trash.

    I noticed a bit of an exhaust leak coming from the Passenger side area, just at the front tire. Turns out there is a tear in the gasket. I'm going to have to get that downpipe backed out a bit and get a new gasket in there... great. Good thing these end with a v-band connection. And actually, the exhaust leak is louder than the exhaust itself lol

    I'm helping a friend get his Saab 9-3 Aero ready for a car show in two weeks, so not a lot of free time to fix anything for a bit.

    Another note: Since I bought the car the CEL light has been on due to the faulty passenger side downpipe (separated at the flex joint). After installing this system, I scanned the error codes and reset/erased them. Even though this system has no cats at all, but the sensors and installed in the bungs provided, the CEL has not come back on. I'll keep and eye on it and note if it does; but the long term solution is to go to Auchtuning and have them flash a Stage 1 with CAT delete to permanently remove the possibility of error codes.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  7. #47
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 21 2017
    AZ Member #
    403354
    Location
    Wisconsin

    Use oem metal gaskets for downpipe to turbo, don't use the junk gasketss that they come with and you'll be fine!! I use Brad Watkins who owns German Elite Tuning in Arizona for my tunes usually, he does all my cars and my friends cars as well with a remote flash, I had him code out egt and secondary o2s tight away on this and flash to a stage 2!! Made the car Way way more fun!! I'd suggest going on ebay and buying 2.5 v band clamps because these v band clamps are also Junk and will probably not. Come apsrt easy or bend/break.. I keep an extra set around incase!

  8. #48
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Well, the car is running like ass right now. About every third time I start it, it runs very rough and the CEL light flashes for about 20 seconds. Scanning codes relieved P0304, Cylinder 4 Misfire. So, it looks like I have to do coil packs and plugs before I get the tune. I'll just go ahead and do a "Stage 0" tune up with oil, filters, coil packs, plugs, etc. Then, take it to Auchtuning after.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  9. #49
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 21 2017
    AZ Member #
    403354
    Location
    Wisconsin

    Delete codes Move the #4 coil to the next cylinder and see if it follows.. If it follows the coils bad... Otherwise just unplugging the coil and seeing it the car changes how it runs will be enough as well... If it changes how it runs than you pull and move a spark plug.. If there is no change it usually means coil is junk!! Just a super fast way to diagnose with and without a scanner!!

  10. #50
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Quote Originally Posted by Boostthis89 View Post
    Delete codes Move the #4 coil to the next cylinder and see if it follows.. If it follows the coils bad... Otherwise just unplugging the coil and seeing it the car changes how it runs will be enough as well... If it changes how it runs than you pull and move a spark plug.. If there is no change it usually means coil is junk!! Just a super fast way to diagnose with and without a scanner!!
    Great info, thanks! That looks like an easy way to to diagnose the issue. I checked though the maintenance notes from the PO and found that the last time the coil packs and plugs were replaced was at 75K, back in 2013. Now the car is at 105K. I'll do this prior to replacing the items just to make sure its a coil pack issue.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  11. #51
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Replaced the Spark Plugs, Coil Packs and Diverter Valves today. Didn't take very long, and was actually easier than expected.


    Stock diverters vs new Forged


    Old plugs were a bit burnt. and there was a bit of oil in the sockets of the two center cylinders:


    The others were dry, but these two center sockets are soaked.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  12. #52
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Received the 17z calipers I purchased from a FB contact.Only one way to put it: Damn these are big...

    As a comparison, here are the Porsche "Big Red" Calipers from a 928 I had installed on my Volvo. These seemed so big at the time... Had them powder coated yellow (which came out Banana Yellow).

    I'm going to have to get a shot of the two side by side to show my Volvo buds what real Calipers look like lol

    Not sure about the color of the 17z. And some of the pistons are missing. So, rebuild prior to install... maybe summer-ish.

    Brakes were not on my list to start with, but overbuilding seems to be the way I roll.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  13. #53
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 24 2009
    AZ Member #
    52496
    Location
    NY

    what's a 'POASCHE'? :P

  14. #54
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Quote Originally Posted by superdlux View Post
    what's a 'POASCHE'? :P
    No idea...

    Took care of the valve cover seals today and was able to see what happened to the passenger side downpipe gasket. It turns out the upper inside nut was cross threaded onto the stud. Makes for a hell of a noise at start up and while warming up. Not so bad once it gets going though... Either way, she's benched until I can get a new stud ordered and installed. Don't really like driving around with that bad of an exhaust leak.

    There is a bit of interference with the passenger downpipe and the trans mount. Looks like a small bit will need to be ground off to take care of the vibration noise i am hearing. Pics to follow when I get in there and dig around.

    Also, the hood strut had spewed oil all over the engine bay and quit. So I replaced it along with the weakening rear hatch struts.

    On a side note: I was very pissed off at myself while doing the driver's side valve cover. I thought I had dropped the lower front most nut into the intake pipe of the turbo when I took it off the cover. So, I spent the next 15 minutes devising a plan to use an extraction tool with a magnet stuck in the jaws ti fish it out. Then spent the next 30 minutes actually fishing for the damn nut in the intake tube. All that effort was in vein, because while fishing, I looked over to the side of the bay and saw the nut sitting over on the frame... mocking me. That was the time I decided to go have a corned beef sammich for lunch and relax a bit.
    Last edited by JLCampbell; 03-19-2018 at 12:31 PM.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  15. #55
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Took care of the cross threaded stud yesterday. Took a few hours to get that damn thing off the turbo flange. I rethreaded the stud enough to get two of the nuts back on, then tightened them together and turned the inside one to try to get the stud to loosen. It would not budge until I applied some heat, lots of heat. Then, slowly, it started to back out. Replaced the stud, put a new OE gasket on there (the ones that came with the XSPower downpipes are crap, it split in three), and new nuts. Also replaced the Driver's side gasket; but that was stupid easy as all the studs were fine. To address the pass. pipe making contact with the transmission case in two places, and one place on the trans mount. The mount contact was the stub that the heat shield mounted to. Since I didn't re-install the shield, didn't need the mount... ground that shit off. Then used a press to dent the downpipe in a few places (near the braid and at mid pipe) where it was touching. Clears perfectly now. no pics, cause I'm lazy.

    Between this and the new plugs, coil packs and oil change, I think it's ready to take it over to Auchtuning and get that tune installed! Looking for a Stage 2 tune now, after talking to the guys there and them realizing that there are no cats, they suggested that a Stage 2 with cat delete would provide better benefits all around.

    Also starting to think about wheels spring. 20" is the goal. Looking at one of two styles from to brands. Both are 20"x10"; one with ET30 the other ET40.

    Here's what I'm thinking:
    Either the Rosso Skism:

    Or the Verde Paralax V39:
    Last edited by JLCampbell; 05-06-2018 at 06:22 PM.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  16. #56
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    I chose the Verde Parallax V39 20x10 ET30 wheels. They arrived a few days ago, and I have an appointment to install the tires this coming week.
    I took the winter mode KO2's off and installed a spare set of Carlsson 1/15 18" that I have for the CL in order to reprogram the suspension. I want it low, but just couldn't get it down with the KO2's on. So, running with the Carlsson's for a week with 'in transition' helps.


    Also changed out the cargo basket for a top box: Yakima SkyBox Lo Carbonite. The basket looked great for winter, but proved just about useless in PNW winter weather.

    These new wheels are a bit... massive:



    i can't wait to see how they fit on the allroad. And the concave is about 1 1/4" deep. I'm getting 265/35R20 tires to make sure that they fit on both my allroad and the CL600, just in case I want to try them on both
    Last edited by JLCampbell; 05-06-2018 at 06:27 PM.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  17. #57
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 02 2013
    AZ Member #
    124245
    My Garage
    05 allroad FBP 6mt, 06 VW Passat Komfort, 08 VW Touareg V8 FSI
    Location
    pennsylvania

    I look forward to seeing them on the car......keep us posted. Nice work!

  18. #58
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Finally had the time to stop by Auchtuning in Redmond, WA and get that Stage II tune uploaded. They also added cat delete in the programming so, NO MORE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT!
    The ride home was much different than the last few months of driving. Take off from a stand still feels about the same. Same Turbo spool wait... But throttle response in the higher revs is much improved. It feels like I can overtake anything!
    I'll post more as I discover just what I bought

    Per Auchtuning: EMCS was not available on my ECU, so only one remapping is programmed. No Valet, or multiple octane maps for me. I chose the 91+ octane map, since I never fill up with less than 92. Estimated output with mods (Catless system, 2.5" full exhaust) should get around 325HP/380Torque on 92 octane. Much improved in deed.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  19. #59
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    I have the new setup installed for approximately 12 hours. The 20x10 with ET30 proved to be a bit to low of an offset for the wheel to fit in the front without contacting the suspension upright. So, I left the 25mm spacer in place to get the thing home. Because of the 25mm, effectively an ET of 5 now, the wheel sits proud on the flare by about 8-10mm; causing contact when at Level 1.
    Fronts:
    Once I got home, I measured the distance from inner wheel to upright and found it to be 15mm. So, I ordered a set of 15mm spacers to see if I can get the wheels to sit just inside the flare lip. Current spacer is 25mm; replacing it with a 15mm should bring it inboard by, 10mm (final ET15), which should be perfect on the outside, but will bring the inside to within 5mm of the upright. A bit close me thinks. but, we will see...
    Rears:
    The wheels seem to fit quite well in the inside, plenty of room to tuck them in if needed. Which brings up the outside; the wheel sits quite proud of the flare. Enough that even at Level 3 the tire melted away a bit of the inside of the flare edge. So, I ordered another set of 15mm spacers to replace the 30mm (which was ET0), to get that wheel to tuck in there. Should be find all around.

    I'll keep the 25 and 30 mm spacers for the stocks with all terrains setup for winter, and the new 15mm square for summer... if they solve the issue and I can get it down to Level 1 (only when stationary of coarse) I removed the 20's and reinstalled the 18" until the new spacers arrive as all the rubbing made the car undriveable.





    In the mean time, I put the 20's on my CL600 just to see how it would look. And, I'm not hating the new style wheel on an older body style car. Makes the brakes look tiny...


    As far as the new Stage II tune: I'm really liking the new setup. I really think that Driving in 'Sport' really brings out the changes in the tune. I'll have to check with Auchtuning and APR, but I'm not sure if they remapped the Sport program as well as the normal, or if it's just the factory shift point difference that Sport uses that wakes up the engine.

    Took a 4 hour drive over the weekend in some mountain terrain and really enjoyed overtaking the slower traffic with a 'jam the penal, and overtake EVERYTHING' response.
    Last edited by JLCampbell; 05-16-2018 at 11:50 PM.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  20. #60
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Replaced this bastard today:


    Noticed a makeshift repair on the tube leading to the pass side vale cover when i did the gaskets. Meaning, someone broke it, and tried to hide it by using electrical tape to repair. The PO told me he had only taken the car to a local dealer for service. Oh well, fixed now.

    New spacers arrive tomorrow. But, the 20's look so good on my CL600, I'm not sue now if I want to put them back on the allroad. Maybe I'll get the other set I was thinking of, the Russo Skism, for the allroad and keep the Verde Parallax on the CL.
    Last edited by JLCampbell; 05-30-2018 at 10:33 PM.
    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

  21. #61
    Established Member Two Rings JLCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15 2017
    AZ Member #
    399482
    My Garage
    2005 Audi allroad 2.7t, 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230, 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600
    Location
    Seattle, WA

    Spent some time over the weekend at PNW WagonFest hosted at/by Dirt Fish. Great gathering of wagons of all types. Took some pics:



    Honorable Mention: Survivor Vista Cruiser and the actual Twin Peaks Sheriff's Bronco

    Current Daily: 2005 Audi allroad 2.7t
    Wife's Car: 1997 Mercedes-Benz C230
    GT Car: 1999 Mercedes-Benz CL600

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