VCDS Force-through for Sensor readiness

[agent47]

Any of you guys familiar with the process? I just failed my state emissions testing due to the O2 and Cat sensors not being ready. EPL doesn't disable them so its probably just the car needing to re-check for ready status. Is anybody familiar with the Vagcom process for it?

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[ericw.]

I believe you need sensor spacers. I've never heard of this being a VCDS configurable option.

[dasaab]

Any of you guys familiar with the process? I just failed my state emissions testing due to the O2 and Cat sensors not being ready. EPL doesn't disable them so its probably just the car needing to re-check for ready status. Is anybody familiar with the Vagcom process for it?

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Any connections for the inspection place?

[OlyS6]

Any of you guys familiar with the process? I just failed my state emissions testing due to the O2 and Cat sensors not being ready. EPL doesn't disable them so its probably just the car needing to re-check for ready status. Is anybody familiar with the Vagcom process for it?

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I'm not familiar with any process to recheck to ensure the sensors are ready, but you ought to be able to at least use the autoscan feature in VCDS to find any engine faults for the lambda (O2) sensors. If there are any initial issues, go to the engine module on vcds and clear the fault codes. Then re-run your autoscan to see if anything persists. If you are either using the EPL tune or have the APR tune and gotten it flashed back to stock, you may very well have a CEL for decreased catalytic converter efficiency, which can be gotten rid of by using Vibrant J shaped spacers using the restrictors with the smallest hole. If you are using an APR tune and didn't get it flashed back to stock, the secondary O2 sensors are coded out and will not be found to be ready by the emissions testing folks. You'll need to get it flashed back to the stock configuration, and then use VCDS to clear the CEL just before going in for emissions testing (from what I gather from folks on here with APR tunes- I have EPL, so forgive me if there is any inaccuracy in that last statement).

[agent47]

I'm not familiar with any process to recheck to ensure the sensors are ready, but you ought to be able to at least use the autoscan feature in VCDS to find any engine faults for the lambda (O2) sensors. If there are any initial issues, go to the engine module on vcds and clear the fault codes. Then re-run your autoscan to see if anything persists. If you are either using the EPL tune or have the APR tune and gotten it flashed back to stock, you may very well have a CEL for decreased catalytic converter efficiency, which can be gotten rid of by using Vibrant J shaped spacers using the restrictors with the smallest hole. If you are using an APR tune and didn't get it flashed back to stock, the secondary O2 sensors are coded out and will not be found to be ready by the emissions testing folks. You'll need to get it flashed back to the stock configuration, and then use VCDS to clear the CEL just before going in for emissions testing (from what I gather from folks on here with APR tunes- I have EPL, so forgive me if there is any inaccuracy in that last statement).

I have EPL stage 1 as well on my A6. I read a few things online about ecu flashes/resets, battery replacements etc. They suggest driving on cruise control for about 60mi after >6h of the engine being off.
Also, found a readiness force through finally on rosstech website. Some VW guys also seem to be doing it.
I dont have any CEL or 02 sensor faults. Just the "not ready" code. Gonna try the force through tonight . If it works , good. If not then I'll go for the cruise control method. If nothing works then flash back to stock. Hindsight- I should have gotten the inspection done before flashing. I was just plain lazy

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[ericw.]

Any connections for the inspection place?

Connections can't help in the case of OBD readiness. It's entirely digital, a place where "human error" is not applicable.

In the past, tuners would "code out" O2 sensors while forcing OBD ready. I'm not sure why a lot of tuners aren't still doing this today.

[agent47]

So the force through option is a no-bueno. Gonna try the cruise option tomorrow. Ffs I hate this

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[MP4.2+6.0]

If it helps understand context, when you clear codes in ECU, it initially goes to "not ready." A guess is when they reflash, they then clear codes. Sort of SOP. But frankly, probably a pretty easy way dealer recognizes something may be going on if you brought it to them right after. Thus, if flashing for dealer service or warranty in future, keep in mind to do it at least several days and some miles ahead of time. I also now look at readiness codes when/if scanning a used car. If it reads not ready, antennae way up something may be going on w/ car that is being concealed with a recent code clear.

Meantime, yes there are driving cycles to basically accelerate the readiness code reset. It varies by model and motor. Deep web searches can sometimes find them--some from Audi, some from diagnostic tool providers like SnapOn. The hardest readiness code to reset in my experience is the secondary air injection. That may take up to two cold hot cold cycles. As in, car has to cool off all day or overnight. For the other ones, if you basically go for about a 30 minute drive, including some freeway, they typically reset as long as nothing is wrong with the emissions equipment. The reference to the cruise control is one where it needs a steady engine speed (around 2000 RPM when I was doing it on my D3). Variously it is doing things like cycling the EGR, checking the vapor system by closing some valves, and testing the cats via pre and post sensor comparisons. None involve hard acceleration or high RPM's. More the opposite--steadier speeds, not really working motor. Most test warm, but SAI needs the cold starts.

[DGVR6]

^^ this is exactly what I've been saying about TD1 and flashing back to stock.

[agent47]

If it helps understand context, when you clear codes in ECU, it initially goes to "not ready." A guess is when they reflash, they then clear codes. Sort of SOP. But frankly, probably a pretty easy way dealer recognizes something may be going on if you brought it to them right after. Thus, if flashing for dealer service or warranty in future, keep in mind to do it at least several days and some miles ahead of time. I also now look at readiness codes when/if scanning a used car. If it reads not ready, antennae way up something may be going on w/ car that is being concealed with a recent code clear.

Meantime, yes there are driving cycles to basically accelerate the readiness code reset. It varies by model and motor. Deep web searches can sometimes find them--some from Audi, some from diagnostic tool providers like SnapOn. The hardest readiness code to reset in my experience is the secondary air injection. That may take up to two cold hot cold cycles. As in, car has to cool off all day or overnight. For the other ones, if you basically go for about a 30 minute drive, including some freeway, they typically reset as long as nothing is wrong with the emissions equipment. The reference to the cruise control is one where it needs a steady engine speed (around 2000 RPM when I was doing it on my D3). Variously it is doing things like cycling the EGR, checking the vapor system by closing some valves, and testing the cats via pre and post sensor comparisons. None involve hard acceleration or high RPM's. More the opposite--steadier speeds, not really working motor. Most test warm, but SAI needs the cold starts.

^^ this is exactly what I've been saying about TD1 and flashing back to stock.

Makes sense. But...... I finally did my own force through and now the sensors are showing ready status. I tried all things- talking to shops and then RossTech. Shops told me to do the drive cycle. RossTech told me that the set readiness function isn't available for our controllers. After having the car hot enough, I took a little risk and checked a few options. Forced a few tests and Boomtown!

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[DGVR6]

What options did you select to force readiness?

[ericw.]

What options did you select to force readiness?

He drove the car and read/tested o2 sensors on vcds. I think it was coincidence or a fluke. I'd like to see if it's repeatable.

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[mihneagabriel]

What downpipes and everything do you have? Passed readiness and everything by adding a small straight spacer on my vibrant J spacers. No issues so far, it's been 2 weeks or so

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[agent47]

He drove the car and read/tested o2 sensors on vcds. I think it was coincidence or a fluke. I'd like to see if it's repeatable.

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Never said that I drove the car and tested the readiness. Clearly stated that I forced a few tests.

What options did you select to force readiness?

I'll make a video of the process when I get a chance.

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[ericw.]

Never said that I drove the car and tested the readiness. Clearly stated that I forced a few tests.

I'll make a video of the process when I get a chance.

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You did drive the car since the previous smog attempt though right? That's typically how you achieve obd readiness after clearing faults. I'm just saying that I'm skeptical that your tests did the trick. It could just be coincidence after so many engine cycles/driving.

Let's see if someone else can repeat it, then I'll be a believer. 😉

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[agent47]

You did drive the car since the previous smog attempt though right? That's typically how you achieve obd readiness after clearing faults. I'm just saying that I'm skeptical that your tests did the trick. It could just be coincidence after so many engine cycles/driving.

Let's see if someone else can repeat it, then I'll be a believer. 😉

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Yeah and after driving, the sensors were not ready. Parked at home, checked them again, not ready. Dug a little deeper into the engine block tab on VCDS, took a risk, ran the tests. But hey they turned ready because I drove around and wanted to look like a scientist here. Geez.. SMH..

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[hmuller]

Yeah and after driving, the sensors were not ready. Parked at home, checked them again, not ready. Dug a little deeper into the engine block tab on VCDS, took a risk, ran the tests. But hey they turned ready because I drove around and wanted to look like a scientist here. Geez.. SMH..

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I did this a couple of years ago with my 2002 Passat and 2003 Jetta. Using an old version of the Ross-Tech software and a dumb cable form eBay I was able to run some tests and force readiness. I was hoping this could be done as well on the much newer C7s and the new intelligent cable from Ross-Tech even though I didn't have a need for it yet. Please share your procedure once you get a chance.

[agent47]

I did this a couple of years ago with my 2002 Passat and 2003 Jetta. Using an old version of the Ross-Tech software and a dumb cable form eBay I was able to run some tests and force readiness. I was hoping this could be done as well on the much newer C7s and the new intelligent cable from Ross-Tech even though I didn't have a need for it yet. Please share your procedure once you get a chance.

The procedure is similar to all the older models. You just need to navigate to the right options and run every damn test related to the sensors that were not ready. I haven't had the time, but as soon as I get to it again, I'll make a video.

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[OlyS6]

The procedure is similar to all the older models. You just need to navigate to the right options and run every damn test related to the sensors that were not ready. I haven't had the time, but as soon as I get to it again, I'll make a video.

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Looking forward to it. I'd greatly appreciate you posting that, as I've never done any of those tests before.

[hmuller]

The procedure is similar to all the older models. You just need to navigate to the right options and run every damn test related to the sensors that were not ready. I haven't had the time, but as soon as I get to it again, I'll make a video.

Any update on this? It would be great to have a documented procedure to set readiness for our cars.

[bmxmett318]

Any update on this? It would be great to have a documented procedure to set readiness for our cars.

Crickets 🦗 🦗

[bmxmett318]

The procedure is similar to all the older models. You just need to navigate to the right options and run every damn test related to the sensors that were not ready. I haven't had the time, but as soon as I get to it again, I'll make a video.

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Cool video! Thanks so much for letting everyone know it’s possible 👍

[mreuss222]

Cool video! Thanks so much for letting everyone know it’s possible 👍

Where can I find the video?
I'm going through the same issue
Thanks
My email. [email protected]

[MadMaxD]

Connections can't help in the case of OBD readiness. It's entirely digital, a place where "human error" is not applicable.

In the past, tuners would "code out" O2 sensors while forcing OBD ready. I'm not sure why a lot of tuners aren't still doing this today.

Tuners used to be able to simply change the acceptable parameters for the secondary O2s so that the car wouldn’t throw codes but it is not doable on newer cars. IIRC it’s because most manufacturers switched to wideband secondary O2s.

[GID]

This is a old thread but I figured I'll still reply to it because there was so much interest in the past. You can force your way through some tests. This doesn't mean you'll pass the tests, if something is legitimately wrong you're going to fail. But, we all know the struggle of waiting for monitors to pass and trying to do a "drive cycle" seems to be more a art than a science.

You simply start your rosstech and choose the engine module. Then I believe it's 04 basic settings. Then you choose the monitor you want to test. I still haven't figured out exactly which ones need to be tested for a specific monitor but I can confirm this works. I did it for catalyst monitor and the 02 monitor. Still playing around with it because I have 1 left that needs to pass, the fuel monitor.

No I didn't drive around to pass it. I started the car, obd2 clearly showed I had several in a failed status. Then I ran several tests, parked, then check readiness again and 3 of the 4 were passed.

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[christianb5s4]

Just thought I'd add that having tuners code out sensors/modules etc and forcing readiness will now fail you in CA. Last year, they changed smog testing so that the computer test clears your readiness. If any immediately pop back up on the spot as ready (aka forced readiness) then you fail as that is a flag a tune is coding stuff out.

That then immediately fails you. Just an FYI for anyone in California.