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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    C5 Allroad 4.2 V8 Swap Info

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    **This thread will contain information regarding a 4.2 swap be it a 077 (belt) motor or a 079 (chain) motor. It will tend to focus more on the Belt driven 077 simply for reliability and availability of the engine**



    079 Chain V8

    Forum user swamper8 V8 swapped his 04 Allroad with a 079 4.2 about 6 years ago. It's a plug and play swap in terms of getting the motor running, but there's more wiring inside that needs attention for completeness. Here's what he had to say regarding the swap:

    Quote Originally Posted by swamper8 View Post
    My car was originally a 2.7T BEL 6MT as well. I swapped the 4.2L chain in there, I didn't do a 6MT swap to a factory 4.2 AR. I can only speak to what it took to put the chain motor in but I believe the belt will be very similar. Obviously since the (chain) 4.2 came in 04-05 allroads, it physically fit. I got a complete 4.2 parts car that provided all the brackets/clips/hoses/do-dads etc. I highly highly highly recommend getting a parts car. You'll need so many parts to go along with the motor it's the only way to do a swap like this without going broke. I spent two full weekends comparing wiring diagrams. The good news is that between the 2.7 and 4.2, 90%+ of the ECM connections were identical. Everything needed to actually make the motor run was plug and play. The bad news is that the remaining 10% was a bitch to sort out. Specifically these areas:

    1.) Cooling fans. 2.7T cars use a fan control module; two (small) electric fans and one mechanical fan. The 4.2L allroad used two electric fans only and they're controlled directly by the ECU. (PWM) The 4.2L A6 I have is back to one mechanical and two electric. The fan wiring is part of the body harness, not engine harness, so the wiring for them has to be surgically extracted from under the dash.

    2.) There were differences in the HVAC between the 2.7 and 4.2. The 4.2 uses a evaporator outlet temp sensor, the 2.7T does not. That had to be swapped over. The chain 4.2 uses a compressor with a regulator valve, not a magnetic clutch. The factory AC clutch relay had to be bypassed and the feedback circuit to the HVAC also had to be jumped. HVAC head had to be recoded via VCDS.

    3.) I had to add a couple wires to the ECM connectors in the plenum ECU enclosure. (car side) They are an unbelievable bitch to get to but I wanted my swap to be as close to factory as possible.

    4.) You have to consider the ECU coding aspect. I learned how to recode the ECU for the SKC/cluster ID/VIN etc. I enlisted the help of someone else to sort out the actual tune and related issues.

    There are other misc. items you have to keep in mind like if you take a 4.2 (any variety) out of an automatic car, you won't have the wires in the engine harness for the 01E reverse switch. So you will need to extract those two wires from your BEL harness and transfer them to the 4.2 harness. If the car is your DD, plan to have another vehicle to drive for a month+ so you can peacefully do the swap without the pressure of having to get your DD back on the road.

    Basically you need well developed mechanical/electrical/electronic skills to pull it off. It's not hard per-say, but very time consuming. You have to think your way through a lot of issues as they arise.

    I just found this thread a week ago. It's an interesting read. I like "OEM/FACTORY" installations, so I'm not interested in cutting up my lock carrier to fit some misc. radiator. But this guy regularly is fitting 4.2 Belt motors into B5 cars which have the same short nose as the C5 Allroad. So it's possible to do the swap without even modifying the nose of the car.


    Wiring Diagrams

    You can find free wiring diagrams here: **Site is in Russian but the provided links should send you straight to the PDF files**

    04 Allroad Wiring Diagrams: http://mitchell-auto.ru/wiring-diagr...uattro-wd.html

    00 A6 Wiring Diagrams: http://mitchell-auto.ru/wiring-diagr...udi-a6-wd.html



    077 Belt V8

    The 4.2 077 (ART/AWN/BBD) will need some more finesse than the aforementioned 079 motor both in terms of wiring and fitment, however there should not be any significant modification required to the core support to get it to fit. I'm currently tracing out all the pins in the 2.7T BEL diagram and comparing them to the 4.2 AWN. The only issue is that I have not been able to find an easy to understand diagram for the AWN, as the PDF linked above for the 00 A6 may only be for the ART in 00. Can some one confirm?

    Nollywood has provided ECU pinouts for the ME7.1 and ME7.1.1 ECU's in the S6, but so far I have not been able to confirm whether or not the wiring is the same for all C5 V8's. More experienced people please chime in. Here's what Nollywood has done for us:

    Quote Originally Posted by Nollywood View Post
    Audi S6 4.2 V8 40V (AQJ) - Bosch Motronic ME7.1 ECU Pinouts.

    001 - Earth (Brown).
    002 - Earth (Brown).
    003 - D131, connection 15 via fuse 232 (Black / Blue).
    004 - Z28, Lambda probe 2 heater, pin 2 of connector T4v (Yellow / Blue).
    005 - Z19, Lambda probe heater, pin 2 of connector T4u (Yellow / Green).
    006 -
    007 - N128, ignition coil 2, pin 3 (White / Black).
    008 - N190, ignition coil 7, pin 3 (Blue / Red).
    009 -
    010 -
    011 -
    012 - G108, Lambda probe 2, pin 3 of connector T4v (Yellow)
    013 - G108, Lambda probe 2, pin 4 of connector T4v (Green).
    014 -
    015 -
    016 -
    017 -
    018 -
    019 - A79, climate control panel in dash wiring harness, via T10n/10 (Blue / Lilac).
    020 -
    021 -
    022 -
    023 - N31, injector cylinder 2, pin 2 (Green).
    024 - N85, injector cylinder 7, pin 2 (Green / White).
    025 -
    026 -
    027 - G70, air mass meter, pin 3 (Black / Green).
    028 -
    029 - G70, air mass meter, pin 5 (Green).
    030 - G5, rev counter, pin 6 of connector T32 behind instrument cluster, via T15u/5 (Black / Lilac).
    031 -
    032 - Earth connection (screening) in engine compartment wiring harness.
    033 - G185, accelerator pedal position sender 2, pin 4/-- via T15e/4 (Grey / Yellow).
    034 - G185, accelerator pedal position sender 2, pin 6/S2 via T15e/6 (Brown / Green).
    035 - G79, accelerator pedal position sender, pin 1/S1 via T15e/1 (Yellow / Blue).
    036 - G79, accelerator pedal position sender, pin 3/-- via T15e/3 (Brown / Red).
    037 - G5, rev counter, pin 11 of connector T32 behind instrument cluster, via T10p/2 (Green / Blue).
    038 - A16, cruise control connection in dash panel wiring harness via T15e/10 (Black / White).
    039 - F36, clutch pedal switch, pin 1 via T15e/13 (Red / Green).
    040 - E87, climate control panel, pin A7 via T15u/2 (Black / Yellow).
    041 - E87, climate control panel, pin C15 viaT15u/3 (Black / Grey).
    042 -
    043 - OBD communication, track 193 via T10o/1 (Green / Black).
    044 - N112, secondary air inlet valve, pin 2 (Lilac / Yellow).
    045 - N261, intake manifold change over valve 2, pin 2 (Green / Red).
    046 - J299, secondary air pump relay, pin 6/85 (Blue / Grey).
    047 - K83, check engine lamp, pin 14 of connector T32a behind instrument cluster, via T10o/2 (White / Red)
    048 - K83, check engine lamp, pin 13 of connector T32 behind instrument cluster, via T10n/2 (Yellow / Brown).
    049 - .
    050 -
    051 - G39, Lambda probe, pin 3 of connector T4u (Red).
    052 -
    053 - G70, air mass meter, pin 4 (Blue / Green).
    054 - Speed signal, Pin 3 of connector T32, behind instrument cluster, via T10o/3 in ECU box (White / Blue).
    055 - F47, cruise control brake pedal switch, pin 4 via T15e/12 (White / Red).
    056 - F, brake lamp switch, pin 2 via T15e/11 (Red / Black).
    057 - E45, cruise control system switch, pin 3 via T15e/9 (Red / Yellow).
    058 - CAN-Low, via T15u/14--->A122 (low bus) dash wiring harness--->TCU (Orange / Brown).
    059 -
    060 - CAN-hi, via T15u/15--->A121 (high bus) in dash wiring harness--->TCU (Orange / Black).
    061 -
    062 - Constant 12V+ via T10p/4 (Red).
    063 -
    064 - N80, activated charcoal system solenoid valve 1, pin 2 (Lilac / White).
    065 - J17, fuel pump relay, pin 16/85 via T10p/8 (Red / Blue).
    066 -
    067 - E3, hazard warning light switch, pin 8 via pin 2 of connector T3au (Lilac / Blue).
    068 -
    069 -
    070 - G39, Lambda probe, pin 4 of connector T4u (Lilac).
    071 -
    072 - G185, accelerator pedal position sender 2, pin 5/+ via T15e/5 (Green).
    073 - G79, accelerator pedal position sender, pin 2/+ via T15e/2 (Yellow / Lilac).
    074 -
    075 - E45, cruise control system switch, pin 2 via T15e/8 (Blue).
    076 - E45, cruise control system switch, pin 5 via T15e/7 (Red / Grey).
    077 -
    078 -
    079 -
    080 -
    081 - Pin 25 of connector T32 behind instrument cluster, via T10o/10 (Yellow).

    082 - G28, engine speed sender, pin 3 of connector T3k (Grey).
    083 - G188, throttle valve drive angle sender 2, pin #2 (Brown / Red).
    084 - G188, throttle valve drive angle sender 2, pin #4 (Black / Brown).
    085 - G70, air mass meter, pin 1 (Grey / Lilac).
    086 - G40, Hall sender, pin 2 (Green / Lilac).
    087 - G163, Hall sender 2, pin 2 (Blue / Lilac).
    088 - N33, injector cylinder 4, pin 2 (Brown / Lilac).
    089 - N86, injector cylinder 8, pin 2 (White / Yellow).
    090 - G28, engine speed sender, pin 2 of connector T3k (Blue).
    091 - G187, throttle valve drive angle sender 1, pin 6 (Blue / Brown).
    092 - G187, throttle valve drive angle sender 1, pin 1 (Black / Grey).
    093 - G2, coolant temperature sender, pin 4 (Grey / Red).
    094 - N163, ignition coil 4, pin 3 (Grey / Yellow).
    095 - N191, ignition coil 5, pin 3 Grey / Brown).
    096 - N30, injector cylinder 1, pin 2 (Brown / Black).
    097 - N83, injector cylinder 5, pin 2 (Brown / Green).
    098 - G40, Hall sender, pin 1/+ (Green / Black).
    099 - G61, knock sensor 1, pin 1 of connector T3bc (white).
    100 -
    101 -
    102 - N, ignition coil 1, pin 3 (White / Green).
    103 - N164, ignition coil 5, pin 3 (Brown / Green).
    104 - N156, intake manifold change over valve, pin 2 (Green / Yellow).
    105 - N145, electro / hydro engine mount solenoid valve, right, pin 2 (Blue / Red).
    106 - G61, knock sensor 1, pin 2 of connector T3bc (brown).
    107 - G66, knock sensor 2, pin 2 of connector T3bd (green).
    108 - G2, coolant temperature sender, pin 3 (Brown / Grey).
    109 -
    110 - N189, ignition coil 6, pin 3 (Green / Grey).
    111 - N158, ignition coil 2, pin 3 (Green / Brown).
    112 - N84, injector cylinder 6, pin 2 (Brown / Blue).
    113 - N32, injector cylinder 3 pin 2 (Brown / Grey).
    114 -
    115 - N205 / N208, inlet camshaft timing adjustment valves 1 / 2, pin 2 (Brown / Green).
    116 - N144, electro / hydro engine mount solenoid valve, left, pin 2 (Blue / Red).
    117 - G186, throttle valve drive, pin 3/M+ (Red / Lilac).
    118 - G186, throttle valve drive, pin 5/M- (Brown / Lilac).
    119 -
    120 -
    121 -


    Audi S6 4.2 V8 40V (ANK) - Bosch Motronic ME7.1.1 ECU Pinouts.

    001 - Earth (Brown).
    002 - Earth (Brown).
    003 -
    004 -
    005 - 005 - Z19, Lambda probe heater, pin 2 of connector T4u (Yellow).
    006 - Z30, Lambda probe 2 heater, downstream of catalyst, pin 2 of connector T4t (Yellow / White).
    007 - N127, ignition coil 2, pin 3 (White / Blue).
    008 - N325, ignition coil 7, pin 3 (Blue / Yellow).
    009 -
    010 - G131, Lambda probe 2 downstream of catalyst, pin 3 of connector T4t (Green).
    011 - G131, Lambda probe 2 downstream of catalyst, pin 4 of connector T4t (Yellow).
    012 - G108, Lambda probe 2, pin 3 of connector T4v (White).
    013 - G108, Lambda probe 2, pin 4 of connector T4v (Brown).
    014 -
    015 -
    016 -
    017 -
    018 -
    019 - N31, injector 2, pin 2 (Green).
    020 -
    021 - ABS connection (15a), T10n/4 via 10A fuse S7 (White).
    022 -
    023 - J271, Motronic current supply relay, pin 4/86 (White / Black).
    024 - N85, injector cylinder 7, pin 2 (Green / White).
    025 -
    026 - G70, air mass meter, pin 1 (Grey).
    027 - G70, air mass meter, pin 3 (Black / Green).
    028 -
    029 - G70, air mass meter, pin 5 (Green).
    030 -
    031 -
    032 -
    033 -
    034 -
    035 -
    036 -
    037 - G5, rev counter, pin 11 of connector T32 behind instrument cluster, via T10p/2 (Green / Blue).
    038 - A16, cruise control connection in dash panel wiring harness via T17i//10 (Black / White).
    039 - F36, clutch pedal switch, pin 1 via T17i/13 (Red / Green).
    040 - E87, climate control panel, pin A7 via T17k/2 (Black / Yellow).
    041 - 041 - E87, climate control panel, pin C15 viaT15u/3 (Black / Grey).
    042 -
    043 - OBD communication, track 193 via T10o/1 (Green / Black).
    044 - N112, secondary air inlet valve, pin 2 (Lilac / Yellow).
    045 - N261, intake manifold change-over valve 2, pin 2 (Green / Black). ** ASG (A6 models).
    045 - N335, variable intake manifold change-over valve, pin 2 (Green / Black). *** ANK (S6 models).
    046 - J299, secondary air pump relay, pin 6/85 (Blue / Grey).
    047 -
    048 - N156, intake manifold change-over valve, pin 2 (Blue / Black).
    049 - .
    050 -
    051 - G39, Lambda probe, pin 3 of connector T4u (Red).
    052 -
    053 - G70, air mass meter, pin 4 (Blue / Green).
    054 -
    055 - F47, cruise control brake pedal switch, pin 4 via T17i/12 (White / Red).
    056 - F, brake lamp switch, pin 2 via T17i/11 (Red / Black).
    057 - E45, cruise control system switch, pin 3 via T17i/9 (Red / Yellow).
    058 - CAN-Low, via T17k/13--->A122 (low bus) dash wiring harness--->TCU (Orange / Brown).
    059 -
    060 - CAN-hi, via T17k/14--->A121 (high bus) in dash wiring harness--->TCU (Orange / Black).
    061 -
    062 - Constant 12V+ via T10p/4 (Red).
    063 - Z29, Lambda probe 1 heater, downstream of catalyst, pin 2 of connector T4s (Yellow / Red).
    064 - N80, activated charcoal system solenoid valve 1, pin 2 (Lilac / White).
    065 - J17, fuel pump relay, pin 16/85 via T10p/8 (Red / Blue).
    066 -
    067 - E3, hazard warning light switch, T17k/16 (Lilac / Blue).
    068 - G130, Lambda probe downstream of catalyst, pin 3 of connector T4s (Grey).
    069 - G130, Lambda probe downstream of catalyst, pin 4 of connector T4s (Blue).
    070 - G39, Lambda probe, pin 4 of connector T4u (Lilac).
    071 -
    072 -
    073 -
    074 -
    075 -
    076 - E45, cruise control system switch, pin 5 via T17i/7 (Red / Grey).
    077 -
    078 -
    079 -
    080 -
    081 -

    082 - G28, engine speed sender, pin 3 of connector T3k (Grey).
    083 - G188, throttle valve drive angle sender 2, pin 2 (Brown / White).
    084 - G188, throttle valve drive angle sender 2, pin 4 (Black / Brown).
    085 -
    086 - G163, Hall sender 2, pin 2 (Green / Lilac).
    087 - G40, Hall sender, pin 2 (Blue / Lilac).
    088 - N33, injector cylinder 4, pin 2 (Lilac).
    089 - N86, injector 8, pin 2 (White / Lilac).
    090 - G28, engine speed sender, pin 2 of connector T3k (Blue).
    091 - G187, throttle valve drive angle sender 1, pin 6 (Yellow / Black).
    092 - G187, throttle valve drive angle sender, pin 1 (Black / Blue).
    093 - G2, coolant temperature sender, pin 4 (Grey / Red).
    094 - N292, ignition coil 4, pin 3 (Grey / White).
    095 - N326, ignition coil 8, pin 3 (Grey / Black)
    096 - N30, injector cylinder 1, pin 2 (Black / Red).
    097 - N83, injector cylinder 5, pin 2 (Brown / Yellow).
    098 - G163, Hall sender 2, pin 1/+ (Green / Black).
    099 - G61, knock sensor 1, pin 1 of connector T3bc (white).
    100 -
    101 -
    102 - N70, ignition coil 1, pin 3 (White / Green).
    103 - N323, ignition coil 5, pin 3 (White / Brown).
    104 -
    105 - N144, electro / hydro engine mount solenoid valve, left, pin 2 (Blue / Red).
    106 - G61, knock sensor 1, pin 2 of connector T3bc (brown).
    107 - G66, knock sensor 2, pin 2 of connector T3bd (green).
    108 - G2, coolant temperature sender, pin 3 (Brown / Grey).
    109 -
    110 - N324, ignition coil 6, pin 3 (Green / Grey).
    111 - N291, ignition coil 3, pin 3 (Green / Brown).
    112 - N84, injector cylinder 6, pin 2 (Brown / Blue).
    113 - N32, injector cylinder 3, pin 2 (Grey / Green).
    114 -
    115 - N205, inlet camshaft timing adjustment valve, pin 2 (Brown / Grey).
    116 - N145, electro / hydro engine mount solenoid valve, right, pin 2 (Blue / Red).
    117 - G186, throttle valve drive, pin 3/M+ (Red / Lilac).
    118 - G186, throttle valve drive, pin 5/M-- (Brown / Lilac).
    119 -
    120 - N208, inlet camshaft timing adjustment valve, pin 2 (Brown / Yellow).
    121 -
    A link to Nollywood's original thread: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...V-ECU-Pin-Outs

    I will update the main post with the differences in wiring from the 2.7t BEL and AWN as soon as I have mapped it out, along with any other relevant information that needs to be posted (physical fitment, radiator selection, which pins to move, etc)

    077 required parts:

    Motor
    -V8 motor mount brackets, lowers need spacers(upper/lower)
    -4.2 engine (complete)
    -4.2/2.8 downpipes
    -vacuum reservoirs(located in fenders of 4.2 cars)

    Transmission
    -2.7T clutch/flywheel (retaining spacer plate) (Can also use TTV 2.7t flywheel machined for B7 RS4 clutch kit PN:3509)
    -TTV V8 to 01E Flywheel PN:4646(not using spacer plate)(Use B7 RS4 clutch kit and flywheel bolts
    N90665001)
    -If converting from 4.375 to 4.11 final drive, axle cups must be swapped in rear diff and transmission to retain Allroad axles.

    Cooling
    -V8 expansion tank
    -1.8T radiator
    -4.2 heater core hoses (have not test fit 2.7T lines, but one line may be too long)

    Electrical
    -4.2 battery positive cable run from starter/alternator to battery
    -re-code cluster to read V8 RPM signals.
    -Aftermarket electric fan.
    Last edited by Bordom; 06-18-2018 at 08:41 PM.
    S4's New Lease On Life
    2001.5 S4 6-spd
    Currently "Monster"

    IG: 24_et

    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings SteelyS6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 29 2011
    AZ Member #
    83182
    My Garage
    2004 Atlas Allroad 6MT, 2001 Kermit stage 3
    Location
    Winnipeg Manitoba

    Cant wait to see where this leads!

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 03 2010
    AZ Member #
    67828
    Location
    Connecticut

    Here's the link I was referring to at the bottom of my post which was copied above. This shows what's needed to go with a belt V8 into a B5 chassis which will basically be the same as the C5 Allroad:
    http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=50232

    I'd be happy to answer any questions related to the BAS/BHF swap into the C5. I am also just starting to delve into a possible belt motor swap.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 10 2013
    AZ Member #
    134985
    Location
    Pickering, Ontario, Canada

    I've completed mapping out the wiring for the 00 4.2. After comparing them with what Nollywood put down, It's different enough to cause some worry as it doesn't match the ME7.1 or ME7.1.1 wiring that he mapped out. Hopefully it's just a function of the ART motor, and not the AWN/BBD

    Wiring as mapped from the free links above for 00 A6:
    001-Earth (Brown)
    002-Earth (Brown)
    003-
    004-Left Primary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/Blue)
    005-Right Primary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/Green)
    006-Left Secondary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/White)
    007-Cyl. 2 Ignition Coil, Pin 3(White/Black)
    008-Cyl. 7 Ignition Coil, Pin 3(Blue/Red)
    009-
    010-Left Secondary O2, Pin 3 (Brown, grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Yellow pin 4)
    011-Left Secondary O2, Pin 4 (Yellow, grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Brown pin 3)
    012-Left Primary O2, Pin 3 (Yellow, grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Green pin 4)
    013-Left Primary O2, Pin 4 (Green, grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Yellow pin 3)
    014-
    015-
    016-
    017-
    018-
    019-A/C & Intrument cluster Systems (Blue/Violet)
    020-
    021-
    022-
    023-
    024-
    025-Leak Detection Pump, Pin 2 (Yellow/Red)
    026-
    027-MAF Sensor, Pin 3 (Black/Green)
    028-
    029-MAF Sensor, Pin 5 (Green)
    030-MIL T32/6, Back of Instrument Cluster (Black/Violet)
    031-
    032-O2/MAF Input?? (Brown/Green)
    033-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 5 (Grey/Yellow)
    034-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 6 (Brown/Green)
    035-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 1 (Yellow/Blue)
    036-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 3 (Brown/Red)
    037-MIL T32/11, Back of Instrument Cluster (Green/Blue)
    038-Cruise Control (Black/White)
    039-Clutch Switch (Red/Green)
    040-A/C System (Black/Yellow)
    041-A/C System (Black/Grey)
    042-
    043-Green/Black -> Green/Red
    044-SAI Solenoid Valve, Pin 2 (Violet/Yellow)
    045-Intake Mani. Tuning Valve, Pin 2 (Green/Red)
    046-SAI Relay, Pin 6 (Blue/Grey)
    047-MIL T32a/14, Back of Instrument Cluster (White/Red->Yellow/Brown)
    048-MIL T32/13, Back of Instrument Cluster (Yellow/Brown->Red/Brown)
    049-
    050-
    051-Right Primary O2, Pin 3 (Red)Grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Violet Pin 4
    052-
    053-MAF Sensor, Pin 4 (Blue/Green)
    054-MIL T32/3, Back of Instrument Cluster(White/Blue) and connected to A/C System (Green/Blue)
    055-Cruise Control (White/Red)
    056-Brake Light Switch (Red/Black)
    057-Cruise Control (Red/Yellow)
    058-ABS/Trans/Instr. Clstr (Orange/Brown)
    059-
    060-ABS/Trans/Instr. Clstr (Orange/Black)
    061-
    062-Battery Pos. Terminal (Red) 30* to Fuel Pump Relay 17*
    063-Right Secondary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/Red)
    064-EVAP Purge Valve, Pin 2 (Violet/White)
    065-S* to 16*, ECU Box (Red/Blue)
    066-
    067-Emergency Flasher & Airbag Control Module (Violet/Blue)
    068-Right Secondary O2, Pin 3 (Grey)Grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Blue Pin 4
    069-Right Secondary O2, Pin 4 (Blue)Grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Grey Pin 3
    070-Right Primary O2, Pin 4 (Violet) Grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Red Pin 3
    071-
    072-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 2/4 (Grey)
    073-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 2/4 (Yellow/Violet)
    074-
    075-Cruise Control (Blue)
    076-Cruise Control (Red/Grey)
    077-
    078-
    079-
    080-Leak Detection Pump, Pin 1 (White/Yellow)
    081-MIL T32/25, Back of Instrument Cluster (Yellow)
    082-Engine Speed Sensor, Pin 3 (Grey)
    083-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 2 (Brown/Red)
    084-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 4 (Black/Brown)
    085-MAF Sensor, Pin 1 (Grey/Violet)
    086-Cam Position Sensor 1, Pin 2 (Green/Violet)
    087-Cam Position Sensor 2, Pin 2 (Blue/Violet)
    088-Cyl. 4 Fuel Injector, Pin2 (Brown/Violet)
    089-Cyl. 8 Fuel Injector, Pin2 (White/Yellow)
    090-Engine Speed Sensor, Pin 2 (Blue)
    091-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 6 (Blue/Brown)
    092-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 1 (Black/Grey)
    093-Coolant Temp. Sensor, Pin 4 (Grey/Red)
    094-Cyl. 4 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Grey/Yellow)
    095-Cyl. 8 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Grey/Brown)
    096-Cyl. 1 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Black)
    097-Cyl. 5 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Green)
    098-Cam Position Sensor 1+2, Pin 1 (Green/Black)
    099-Right Knock Sensor, Pin 1 (White) - Left Knock Sensor, Pin2 (Yellow)
    100-
    101-
    102-Cyl. 1 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (White/Green)
    103-Cyl. 5 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (White/Brown)
    104-Intake Manifold Change-over, Pin 2 (Green/Yellow)
    105-Right Engine Mount Solenoid, Pin 2 (Blue/Red)
    106-Right Knock Sensor, Pin 2 (Brown)
    107-Left Knock Sensor, Pin 1 (Green)
    108-Right/Left Knock Sensor (Pin 3), Engine Speed sensor (Pin 1), Engine Coolant Sensor (Pin 3), Left/Right Cam Pos. Sensor (Pin 3)
    109-
    110-Cyl. 6 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Green/Grey)
    111-Cyl. 3 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Green/Brown)
    112-Cyl. 6 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Blue)
    113-Cyl. 3 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Grey)
    114-
    115-Left/Right Cam Chain Tensioner, Pin 2 (Brown/Grey)
    116-Left Engine Mount, Pin 2 (Blue/Red)
    117-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 3 (Red/Violet)
    118-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 5 (Brown/Violet)

    If anyone has any questions, then feel free to ask. I certainly know there's more to be learned reading these damned diagrams lol
    S4's New Lease On Life
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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Just finished the 2.7T BEL pinout. Most stuff looks to be the same between the 2 motors. Should drop in and turn over without issue:

    03+ 2.7T BEL
    001-Earth (Brown)
    002-Earth (Brown)
    003-Ignition Coil Power, Pin 1 (Red/Green)
    004-Left Primary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/Blue)
    005-Right Primary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/Green)
    006-Left Secondary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/White)
    007-
    008-
    009-Idle Air Control Valve, Pin 2 (Green/Yellow)
    010-Left Secondary O2, Pin 3 (Violet, grounded @G12 BLK and tied with Red pin 4)
    011-Left Secondary O2, Pin 4 (Red, grounded @G12 BLK and tied with Violet pin 3)
    012-Left Primary O2, Pin 3 (Brown, grounded @G12 BLK and tied with White pin 4)
    013-Left Primary O2, Pin 4 (White, grounded @G12 BLK and tied with Brown pin 3)
    014-
    015-
    016-
    017-
    018-Left Cam Chain Tensioner, Pin 2 (Brown/Grey)
    019-
    020-Left EGT, Pin 1 (Blue/Red)
    021-Blue/Red to White > Brake Switch Pin 3, Clutch Switch Pin 1, Fuse 7 (10a)
    022-Right Cam Chain Tensioner, Pin 2 (Brown/Grey)
    023-ECM Power Relay, Pin 4 (White/Black)
    024-
    025-Leak Detection Pump, Pin 2 (Yellow/Red)
    026-Intake Air Temp. Sensor, Pin 1 (Green/White)
    027-MAF Sensor, Pin 3 (Black/Green)
    028-
    029-MAF Sensor, Pin 4 (Green)
    030-
    031-
    032-
    033-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 5 (Grey/Yellow)
    034-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 6 (Brown/Green->Blue)
    035-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 4 (Yellow/Blue)
    036-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 3 (Brown/Red)
    037-MIL T32/11 (Green/Blue) Branches to A/C Control Head (A2)
    038-Cruise Control (Black/White)
    039-Clutch Switch, Pin 2 (Red/Green)
    040-A/C System, A7 (Black/Yellow)
    041-A/C System, C15 (Black/Grey)
    042-
    043-MIL T32a/28, (Green/Black -> Green/Red)
    044-SAI Solenoid Valve, Pin 2 (Yellow/Green)
    045-
    046-SAI Relay, Pin 6 (Blue/Grey)
    047-
    048-
    049-
    050-Intake Air Temp. Sensor, Pin 2 (Brown/Grey)
    051-Right Primary O2, Pin 3 (Yellow)Grounded @G12 Black and tied with Green Pin 4
    052-
    053-MAF Sensor, Pin 1 (Violet/Grey)
    054-
    055-Brake Switch, Pin 2 (White/Red)
    056-Brake Switch, Pin 4 (Red/Black)
    057-Cruise Control (Red/Yellow)
    058-Computer Data Lines (Orange/Brown)
    059-
    060-Computer Data Lines (Orange/Black)
    061-Right EGT, Pin 1 (Blue/Brown)
    062-Fuel Pump Relay 30* to 17*, ECM Power Supply Mod Pin 1+2
    063-Right Secondary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/Red)
    064-EVAP Purge Valve, Pin 2 (Violet/White)
    065-S* to 16*, ECU Box (Red/Blue)
    066-
    067-Emergency Flasher & Airbag Control Module (Violet/Blue)
    068-Right Secondary O2, Pin 3 (Grey)Grounded @G12 Black and tied with Blue Pin 4
    069-Right Secondary O2, Pin 4 (Blue)Grounded @G12 Black and tied with Grey Pin 3
    070-Right Primary O2, Pin 4 (Green) Grounded @G12 Black and tied with Yellow Pin 3
    071-
    072-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 1 (Grey->Brown/Green)
    073-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 2 (Yellow/Violet)
    074-
    075-Cruise Control (Blue)
    076-Cruise Control (Red/Grey)
    077-
    078-
    079-
    080-Leak Detection Pump, Pin 1 (White/Yellow)
    081-
    082-Engine Speed Sensor, Pin 3 (Grey)
    083-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 2 (Brown/Red)
    084-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 4 (Black/Brown)
    085-Brake Booster Pressure Sensor, Pin 4 (Grey/Yellow)
    086-Cam Position Sensor 2, Pin 2 (Green/Violet)
    087-Cam Position Sensor 1, Pin 2 (Blue/Violet)
    088-Cyl. 3 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Violet)
    089-Cyl. 6 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (White/Yellow)
    090-Engine Speed Sensor, Pin 2 (Blue)
    091-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 6 (Green/Red)
    092-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 1 (Black/Grey)
    093-Coolant Temp. Sensor, Pin 4 (Grey/Red)
    094-Cyl. 3 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Grey/Yellow)
    095-Cyl. 6 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Grey/Brown)
    096-Cyl. 1 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Black)
    097-Cyl. 4 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Green)
    098-Air Temp. Sensor Pin 3, Left/Right Cam Pos. Sensor Pin 1, Brake Booster Sensor Pin 3 (Green/White)
    099-Right Knock Sensor, Pin 1 (White) - Left Knock Sensor, Pin2 (Yellow)
    100-
    101-Charge Air Temp. Sensor, Pin 4 (Blue/Grey)
    102-Cyl. 1 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (White/Green)
    103-Cyl. 4 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (White/Brown)
    104-
    105-
    106-Right Knock Sensor, Pin 2 (Brown)
    107-Left Knock Sensor, Pin 1 (Green)
    108-Right/Left Knock Sensor Pin 3, Engine Speed sensor Pin 1, Engine Coolant Sensor Pin 3, Left/Right 109-Cam Pos. Sensor Pin 3, Brake Booster Sensor Pin 1 (Brown/Grey)
    109-
    110-Cyl. 2 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Green/Grey)
    111-Cyl. 5 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Green/Brown)
    112-Cyl. 2 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Blue)
    113-Cyl. 5 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Grey)
    114-Brake Booster Relay, Pin 6 (White/Yellow)
    115-
    116-Wastegate Bypass Valve (Blue/Green)
    117-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 3 (Red/Violet)
    118-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 5 (Brown/Violet)
    Last edited by Bordom; 05-26-2017 at 11:44 PM.
    S4's New Lease On Life
    2001.5 S4 6-spd
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  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings csosnowski's Avatar
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    I like this.
    2001.5 S4 Avant Sport 6MT - Brilliant Black - Nogaro Alacantra - SOLD
    2000 A4 Sedan Sport 1.8TQM - Hibiscus - Tan two-tone - All stock - SOLD
    -
    2000 A4 Avant Sport 1.8TQM - Silver - Black
    -
    2004 A4 USP Avant 1.8t 6MT - Silver - Black cloth
    -
    2001 Allroad 2.7t - Atlas Grey - Grey / grey
    -
    2003 RS6 - Avus Silver - Black / CF

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings 8520's Avatar
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    Pinning the ecu doesn't really matter in my opinion. It's the wiring at the cabin harness that does.

    The ecu is it's own system and needs very little to run the engine.

    If you match engine harness by year to your car, it will greatly simplify the wiring and will be mostly plug and play.
    -dre

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8520 View Post
    Pinning the ecu doesn't really matter in my opinion. It's the wiring at the cabin harness that does.

    The ecu is it's own system and needs very little to run the engine.

    If you match engine harness by year to your car, it will greatly simplify the wiring and will be mostly plug and play.
    I think this is what you posted before. Because it's an 02 S6, it should be closer to my 03 Allroad right?

    I've no idea where to find chassis wiring diagrams so if you got them, please share


    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
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  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings
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    One thing you want to pay attention to is fuse sizes. Example: yes all the fuel injector and ignition coil wires are plug and play between motors but do they have the same fuse ratings? If you're running 8 coils off a 5A fuse that used to power 6 coils, you could start popping that fuse, overheat wires etc. That's just an example, but should be part of your research. There are subtle differences between the motors as far as what fuse powers what circuit(s).
    My 2000-2004 A6/RS6/Allroad Bentley manual got me about 95% of the way to where I needed to be as far as wiring went. The other document which was linked to above helped me with some misc. items, though the colors not always accurate on that.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings 8520's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bordom View Post
    I think this is what you posted before. Because it's an 02 S6, it should be closer to my 03 Allroad right?

    I've no idea where to find chassis wiring diagrams so if you got them, please share
    [IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170530/0c142de4daeffee59b95dcf2663d354e.jpg[IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

    I manually pulled all my info from a hardcover bentley. Anything I have is posted in my build thread.

    The main issue is the underhood relay that powers the coil packs etc on the can based cars. If you swap year for year, the wiring should be a breeze.
    -dre

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8520 View Post
    I manually pulled all my info from a hardcover bentley. Anything I have is posted in my build thread.

    The main issue is the underhood relay that powers the coil packs etc on the can based cars. If you swap year for year, the wiring should be a breeze.
    I sealed a deal for an S6 motor with all brackets, downpipes, wiring harness and ECU for a hella steal. Wiring between that and the Allroad should be fairly simple.

    Now with that photo above, all I have to do is make sure the body plugs in my Allroad are the same (Or close) and the swap should be a breeze.


    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
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    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings 8520's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bordom View Post
    I sealed a deal for an S6 motor with all brackets, downpipes, wiring harness and ECU for a hella steal. Wiring between that and the Allroad should be fairly simple.

    Now with that photo above, all I have to do is make sure the body plugs in my Allroad are the same (Or close) and the swap should be a breeze.


    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk



    One thing you'll want to keep in mind is that some cabin plugs might not be pinned.

    Same year harness, mostly plug and play. Different year? Better hope you're good with a bentley.
    -dre

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8520 View Post
    One thing you'll want to keep in mind is that some cabin plugs might not be pinned.

    Same year harness, mostly plug and play. Different year? Better hope you're good with a bentley.
    If you can get me scans of those pages for an 03 Allroad and an 03 S6, it's be greatly appreciated

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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Don't worry guys, this thread isn't forgotten. Should be taking delivery the motor sometime soon (3-6weeks ish)

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    S4's New Lease On Life
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    IG: 24_et

    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    So no motor yet, but I'm making some progress on the wiring side of things.

    I got SteelyS6 to send me some pictures of the body plugs he has for his spare 4.2 BBD. The pics he sent are here:













    These are plugs from my 03 BEL which show wiring colours for each side of the connectors:











    All of the connectors between the BEL 2.7t and the BBD 4.2 are the same shape and size. I referenced the chart below to make sure that my body plugs somewhat matched the body plugs in the AR, and I found that the motor should electrically plug and play. The issue will be re-pinning the engine harness to match the correct orientation of the plugs in the chassis to take care of whatever lights are left on.


    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
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  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings
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    I can tell you that when I did my AWN swap, the connectors were not the same. They were the same color and quantity, but there was extremely subtle differences in keying between the two. I didnt notice it until I tried to plug them in to the car and they wouldn't snap in place. Not only did I have to swap over my BEL harness housings but some of the contacts are different too. I tracked down the correct family of electrical contacts and bought them at mouser. BBD and AWN are near identical motors so I'm giving you a heads up to hope for the best but expect the worse. Also, If you haven't already, purchase a kit of electrical contact tools. They have them on Amazon for under $100. Since I had to remove every wire on my harness the right tools made all the difference. Paper clips and tweezers just get to be too cumbersome with that many wires.
    It's relatively close pin for pin. Not exact. As stated above, everything needed to get the motor running is the same. The other differences (for me) were misc signals.
    I have no idea why Audi would have made such a meaningless change. My 2001 AWN 4.2 is ME7.1.1 as is my 2004 BEL 2.7T. The B6S4, which is a completely different vehicle (B6 vs C5) also shares identical plenum connectors/contacts to my Allroad. The C5A6 which was my motor donor car was the only one that was different. It was frustrating. If you're purchasing a BBD that's a C5S6 motor which is why I have my concerns.
    Last edited by swamper8; 09-15-2017 at 06:43 AM.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Hmm, I'll spend the 10 mins and dig into the ecu box again to find out if the keying is the same. What a stupid difference to make on the connectors if the key is different.

    That, or I can modify the connector to accept the car keying

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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    And here's the verdict:

    Keying is the same.

    Allroad black plug


    S6 black plug


    Allroad tan plug


    S6 tan plug


    Allroad red plug


    S6 red plug


    Allroad orange plug


    S6 orange plug


    Allroad white plug


    S6 white plug


    All the keys are the same as far as I can tell so I should be good to go

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  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings
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    That's awesome! You lucked out. Its even more of a mystery why only my engine and harness were different. My red connector was actually two pieces. One slid into the other.....*shrugs*

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Coming up on time to swap the motor and it's time to look for a radiator that will work.

    Surfing Rockauto I was able to find the dimensions of the stock 2.7T radiator used in the Allroad. Picture below.


    Then I had the brilliant idea of using the 4.2 Allroad radiator. Narrow body C5, V8, what could go wrong!? Lots lol


    Looking at the above, the 4.2 Allroad rad is 2 1/8" bigger than the 2.7T. Connections are 1/4" bigger, its 1/2" thicker and the trans cooler is slightly larger as well. Obviously beefier to cool that monster.

    My next thought was to use a B6/B7 1.8T/2.0T rad because everyone uses 1.8T rads for the swaps, and they're found in many a VAG product. Similar in width, bit thinner but not as high.


    I then compared the B6/B7 rad to the B5 1.8T one, and hot damn is it small.


    The better option might be to use the B6 1.8T rad as it's a better fit and use some silicon couplers to ease the transition from the rad to the engine coolant hoses.

    I could use the 4.2 rad, but it depends on how much I want to sacrifice of the headlights lol

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Bordom; 10-05-2017 at 07:49 PM.
    S4's New Lease On Life
    2001.5 S4 6-spd
    Currently "Monster"

    IG: 24_et

    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    More related to the Radiator:

    Taken from another thread I made to try and solve questions related to the swap:
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?p=12714141

    Regarding Allroad radiators
    4.2 radiator



    2.7T radiator



    Upon further inspection of the pictured radiators, you'll notice that the 4.2 radiator is noticeably thinner on the right side of the rad compared to the 2.7T unit.

    It also looks like the left side is also somewhat smaller. I'm gonna go on a hunch and say that the 4.2 Allroad core support is the same between Allroads.

    Same part number, but different revisions.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Cow View Post
    ETKA gives 2 different part numbers: 4Z7805588 for V6 and 4Z7805588D for V8. Looking at pictures they're very similar but not identical, biggest differences I saw are the threaded mounts for what I assume are electric fans (missing on v6), and different cutouts for the rad inlets/outlets. Rad mounting looks the same though, so you should be able to make it work with some modifications.

    So, this swap is postponed until after winter since I'll be working outside and I still have yet to receive the motor and everything related to it.

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings 8520's Avatar
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    I ended up using my s6 radiator with my 2.7 swap as it was what fit the core support. I think you should use the right radiator for your core support. Making hoses fit is a lot easier than making a radiator fit.

    Don't know if you have a napa near you but they have tons of hoses in stock, so just get a general idea of what you need and walk in to compare.
    -dre

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8520 View Post
    I ended up using my s6 radiator with my 2.7 swap as it was what fit the core support. I think you should use the right radiator for your core support. Making hoses fit is a lot easier than making a radiator fit.

    Don't know if you have a napa near you but they have tons of hoses in stock, so just get a general idea of what you need and walk in to compare.
    Good point. It keeps the swap budget friendly and there's a football field's worth of room to move the radiator forward.

    I've played around with the idea, but we'll see how the finances are after winter

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    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    So you guys know this swap isn't forgotten, here's the headers I grabbed for this swap:

    B6 S4 SSAC Longtubes for this application. They should fit without much (if any) modification.




    The collectors do need a bunch of work, so I'm thinking of having them modified so the collector is more efficient. I.e. elongating the part where the tubes have already merged before going 2.5"


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    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings 8520's Avatar
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    Glad to see you still working on this.
    -dre

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8520 View Post
    Glad to see you still working on this.
    Slow and painful haha. Someone has to advance the platform

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    Currently "Monster"

    IG: 24_et

    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings 8520's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bordom View Post
    Slow and painful haha. Someone has to advance the platform

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    I've done my share of advancing

    That being said, I'm looking to start producing some interior bits for the c5 chassis this year. We'll see how time treats me.
    -dre

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Dec 10 2013
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    134985
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    Pickering, Ontario, Canada

    This is gonna be an update from when I started last week to now:

    It's been a while but finally ready to start working on the Allroad. Area is prepped and ready to start using.

    I got my flywheel from TTV. 18lb billet 4.2 8 bolt Flywheel, 11.2mm shorter so no need to use the trans spacer, and machined to accept the B7 RS4 flywheel.






    Area ready to go. I'm also swapping trans from the 4.375 final drive to 4.11, rear diff to match


    I started work on the 4.2 first. I wanted to be sure I could remove the exhaust manifolds without snapping all the studs. Here's what they looked like before:


    All crusty and looking mighty seized.

    I put map gas and candle wax to work (since I didn't have penetrating fluid), so I finally got the driver side manifold free.






    Moving to the passenger side, I got every nut free except the last really long one. She decided to shear right off and I was in disbelief.


    Multiple cycles of heat and candle wax later, and I was able to get the stud out with some channel locks. Hopefully I can get some new exhaust studs and nuts at the local parts store.




    I'm removing the manifolds because I didn't receive the downpipes to go with them. I'll also need to swap my alternator over from the 2.7T, as well as buy a starter and MAF. Also, the studs looked like this, so no bueno.


    Moving on after that obstacle, I found the rear main seal to be leaking. More specifically, the bottom of the cover as opposed to the seal itself. I went to the dealer and ordered the flange gasket to replace the destroyed one.


    Also noticed these dowel pins are bent. Will this cause any issues?





    Finished off the day with the motor almost ready to pull. Hopefully it goes smoothly.

    Spent most of my time fighting seized bolts in the driveline (axle bolts/driveshaft). Exhaust was dropped and out of the way. Rear diff is less than 10 bolts away from coming right out and being swapped. I feel like I need to change all the fluids before sending them back in there.



    Also, found what looks to be some sort of bag in the frame rail. With the amount of things I've been finding in this wagon, I wouldn't be surprised if it's something illegal lol. Does anyone have an idea? I can't reach it with my hand



    And the motor is finally out.




    Tomorrow I will be splitting the engine/trans and mocking up the 4.2 and checking fitment of those longtubes.

    I could not for the life of me get the motor/trans to lift over my axles, so I ended up taking them out. More detailed pictures tomorrow


    I was trying to install the motor for mock up with the headers, but the headers are far too long for a narrow body C5. The contact where the frame rails meet the floor. Looking at how they're setup with the trans, it just barely makes it over the mount.


    I'll have to have it shortened approx 8inches and then rebuilt from there. However, I don't have the resources to bring a motor to them to mock up.

    I also clearances the oil filter housing with the tubes because it interfered.




    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk


    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    S4's New Lease On Life
    2001.5 S4 6-spd
    Currently "Monster"

    IG: 24_et

    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  29. #29
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 07 2005
    AZ Member #
    6784
    Location
    Shepherdstown, WV

    bag in the frame rail is normal/stock.. weird I know, but they come like that not sure why.
    80 rabbit pickup, 98 TJ 4bt cummins, 00 180TTQ 6spd, 02 Freelander, 03 Allroad 2.7t 6spd swap now with K04s, 06 A3 2.0T w/GT3071R (2012 JSW TDI and 2015 GSW TDI now in TDI purgatory )

  30. #30
    Senior Member Four Rings b7_Andy's Avatar
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    Jul 18 2015
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    343342
    Location
    Denver, CO

    When my buddy and I first pulled the motor in his Allroad and looked through the frame rails I thought his car was owned by a cocaine smuggler

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Pickering, Ontario, Canada

    Today I got some more work done. Went and picked up a starter and 1.8T radiator.

    Immediately took the starter and sent it off to get rebuilt locally.




    I haven't looked over the harness yet, but I think I'll be missing some grounds. I'll have to transfer over the ground strap from the 2.7T for the positive battery terminal.

    The radiator is totally mint as well. No bent fins anywhere, other than being a bit dusty.



    Also ran to the parts store and got new bolts for the header to downpipe. I was able to reuse the retainers after knocking out the disgusting old bolts. Copper anti-sieze will be going on those.


    The worst part of these v8 brackets is the 7/8" gap between the chassis rails and bracket. I went out and got 28 12mm spacers, and 4 thinner ones to use and take up space, however I only ended up using 4 12mm spacers on the outside (towards fenders), and 5 12mm spacers on the inside (towards the bay).


    Got the rear diff out and the flanges swapped. That should be reinstalled relatively quickly, then on to making sure the motor fits in the bay before installing the clutch and flywheel.

    I did the rear main seal before stopping for the night. Scraped off the old gasket, brake clean and sanded down the sealing surface. Installed the new paper gasket and applied RTV to the bottom of the flange. I'll snug up the bottom 2 bolts tomorrow.

    To do list thus far:
    -reinstall rear diff
    -swap trans linkages
    -swap trans axle cups
    -tighten bottom RMS bolts
    -install headers
    -mock up motor in the bay
    -change gear oil?
    -install flywheel
    -install clutch
    -mate motor/trans
    -install V8 power steering lines to rack
    -general reassembly


    Delete A.C.? Mine is empty and didn't work before. I guess having it later would be nice, but depends how much of a pain it's going to be to delete.

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Bordom; 06-16-2018 at 03:59 PM.
    S4's New Lease On Life
    2001.5 S4 6-spd
    Currently "Monster"

    IG: 24_et

    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Pickering, Ontario, Canada

    Yesterday I was able to get the clutch and flywheel installed. Took a while to find the right orientation of the flywheel before I was able to get the bolts in.

    I stupidly ordered the 2.7T flywheel bolts and they were about double the required length. I had to go and order B7 RS4 flywheel bolts from the dealer. *TTV 4646 flywheel requires RS4 flywheel bolts
    N90665001*


    From there I tried to install the clutch. The dowels provided on the flywheel were much too large to install. I ended up drilling out the dowel holes to fit it. Notice the holes beside are much smaller


    Just barely fits in


    B7 RS4 clutch installed


    Next was tackling the sheared off slave bolt. Ended up buying cobalt bits and spending 30mins drilling it out and trying to save the threads.


    I am actually able to thread the slave bolt in. So that's a great relief from some of the horror stories I've heard with drilling out the bolt.

    I tried to put the starter in at the end of the day and it wouldn't fit. I ended up pulling the one off my 2.7T and realised it was the same. I ended up figuring out that the wrecked gave me the wrong one. I took it back and they gave me the correct one. I went home and made sure it fit in the block first before having it rebuilt lol



    I figured out the V8 downpipes don't fit. They need to be chopped as the portion that moves down comes into contact with the transmission bracket. They also spread way out so I'll have to chop them right after the precat and have a straight section of pipe welded to it to dump right to the floor. I won't be able to attach my catback because it has V-band flanges

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    S4's New Lease On Life
    2001.5 S4 6-spd
    Currently "Monster"

    IG: 24_et

    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Pickering, Ontario, Canada

    An amendment to the V8 downpipes they do in fact fit. Idk what I was doing yesterday but it certainly wasn't putting it in right lol.

    I don't need to notch the subframe because there's all this room here. Another plus for Allroad owners



    It comes really close to the heat shield so a little bending should set that right but I'm not concerned right now.



    Sitting in the bay. I was so happy to see it sitting there.

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    S4's New Lease On Life
    2001.5 S4 6-spd
    Currently "Monster"

    IG: 24_et

    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings 8520's Avatar
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    Feb 07 2008
    AZ Member #
    25012
    My Garage
    04 silverado V8, 06 Touareg V8, 03 S6 V8, 03 RS6 V8TT
    Location
    The boonies, near Seattle

    Lots of good progress. Love it.

    Please don’t delete your a/c. Don’t be that guy
    -dre

  35. #35
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Pickering, Ontario, Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by 8520 View Post
    Lots of good progress. Love it.

    Please don’t delete your a/c. Don’t be that guy
    Figured I may as well keep it to have something to zip tie the fan to lol

    Gonna go on Tuesday to pick up misc cooling hoses, some electrical cables and vacuum reservoirs from a kid I got the downpipes from. Really nice guy, and I may end up picking his parts car to death before he scraps it lol

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    S4's New Lease On Life
    2001.5 S4 6-spd
    Currently "Monster"

    IG: 24_et

    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  36. #36
    Veteran Member Four Rings AudiA4_20T's Avatar
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    Oct 29 2005
    AZ Member #
    8553
    My Garage
    10speed
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Items for Sale

    This is awesome.
    - Clint

    Current: 05 B5.5 Passat 4motion 1.8T
    Totaled: 04 DG B6 Cabby 1.8T - stock forever
    Gone: White '04 S4 2.7T - Stage 2+
    Gone : Fastest B6 A4 ever - 464awhp/12.1@116
    Gone : 05 DG B7 2.0TQ - Stage 1

  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings 8520's Avatar
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    Feb 07 2008
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    My Garage
    04 silverado V8, 06 Touareg V8, 03 S6 V8, 03 RS6 V8TT
    Location
    The boonies, near Seattle

    Been rereading this.

    You should only have to swap out one power steering line, removing the one the goes to the back side of the engine on the 2.7 and replacing it will one that runs along the frame rail if memory serves.

    Alre Allroad engine mounts taller than other c5 mounts due to subframe spacers? I wouldn’t think you’d have to space the engine in any way.
    -dre

  38. #38
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Dec 10 2013
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    134985
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    Pickering, Ontario, Canada

    Quote Originally Posted by 8520 View Post
    Been rereading this.

    You should only have to swap out one power steering line, removing the one the goes to the back side of the engine on the 2.7 and replacing it will one that runs along the frame rail if memory serves.

    Alre Allroad engine mounts taller than other c5 mounts due to subframe spacers? I wouldn’t think you’d have to space the engine in any way.
    The Allroad 2.7T brackets are indeed taller because of the subframe spacers. I bolted in the V8 mounts and they were too short by 25mm, exactly the length of the spacers. That's why I used washers to take up the slack space for the lower mount brackets.

    In terms of the power steering line, I removed the one from the V8 that goes to the rack, and the low pressure line from reservoir to pump. I was going to remove the same high pressure line in my Allroad, but there was so much crusted mud there I didn't want to risk contamination of the rack. I instead bent the original line going to the back of the firewall to the side along the frame rail. It's currently slotted next to the reservoir and connected to the V8 line by way of a union.

    The line is insanely long and its going to be interesting stuffing the headlight back in lol

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    S4's New Lease On Life
    2001.5 S4 6-spd
    Currently "Monster"

    IG: 24_et

    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Dec 10 2013
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    134985
    Location
    Pickering, Ontario, Canada

    I updated the first post with required parts and whatnot. Obviously not complete but I'll update it as I go along

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    S4's New Lease On Life
    2001.5 S4 6-spd
    Currently "Monster"

    IG: 24_et

    MODS: Revo Stg 1, 034 Billet Subframe Bushings, SSAC V2 Downpipes, Custom True Dual Exhaust, Forge 007 DVs,

  40. #40
    Veteran Member Four Rings AudiA4_20T's Avatar
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    Oct 29 2005
    AZ Member #
    8553
    My Garage
    10speed
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Items for Sale

    BTW, just noticed that you were mapping out the entire engine harness. This is completely unnecessary and will only confuse you.

    I wrote THIS thread awhile ago. The references to the B6 are generally the same for the C5/B5 since they all share ME7.x

    Now you're saying, "OK so how do I wire everything? What about the cluster? What about it talking to all my electronics? That's a mess right?"

    Nope. The engine connects to the whole car with 4 Body Plugs on the B6. The ECU is an "Engine Manager" per say. It doesn't like being Micro-managed and can handle everything on it's own. All it needs is Power and Throttle input. It will make sure to report it's issues to the cluster to let you know if something isn't working right.

    Here's a picture to better understand this:



    Ok so you now realize "hey, this wiring thing isn't so bad. I don't have to worry about N75s or 02 sensors or Coilpack types or anything!"
    - Clint

    Current: 05 B5.5 Passat 4motion 1.8T
    Totaled: 04 DG B6 Cabby 1.8T - stock forever
    Gone: White '04 S4 2.7T - Stage 2+
    Gone : Fastest B6 A4 ever - 464awhp/12.1@116
    Gone : 05 DG B7 2.0TQ - Stage 1

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