Bordom's Allroad; Boat in the Street

[Bordom]

I took the time last night to take stock of what I was missing for the Airlift 3P management and compressors.

In August of 2017, I purchased Viair 444C Dual Pack air compressors and had them shipped over the border by a friend. They've been in a box for the last 8yrs, waiting for when I would actually go through with my plan.

Viair compressor. Totally sealed with 3/8" leader line


Compressor specs. 40amps for the duo. Between these and the fans on the radiator, IDK if the alternator will be able to keep up


Inlet port of the compressor


Power and ground leads


The compressor pack also came with extra air filters. Allegedly, these help filter out water. Each compressor comes with the 3/8" fittings for the inlet and air filter


Here's a shot of the interior. Hopefully these are still good after 8yrs in a box


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[Bordom]

The Airlift 3P management I bought in 2022. The box comes with a great majority of the things required to install the management. The 3P unit I bought has threaded NPT ports (I figured this was better than PTC connections that could wear out and not be serviced


The wiring loom. All connections including the handheld controller, compressor power, and it comes with leads for the 3H system if I ever decide to upgrade.


Controller


The package also came with 60ft of 1/4" OD hose, and the fittings to go straight into the management block


There's a moisture trap, mounting strap, and overpressure valve set for 225PSI. The compressors are rated for 200PSI working pressure. The stock Audi air suspension works at about 14 bar (reservoir pressure when full).


I still need to purchase these to get this working to it's fullest:
1. 3/8" female NPT to 1/4" male NPT with 3/8" PTC (x2)
2. Purchase 27703 for second compressor (Can run single for now)
3. Adapters for M8x1 air fittings to 1/4 PTC

I measured the stock VOSS fittings, and I found they're actually a M8x1 thread, and not a BSPP 1/16 or whatever else people have said. I'm going to find the metric threaded end that adapts to 1/4" NPT PTC. This will eliminate the need for drilling the bags and should make it easier for anyone else looking to perform the same conversion (especially if they have lifetime Arnott warranty like I do)

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[Bordom]

I have found the information many of use have been looking for with regards to the Allroad air fittings! I stumbled through some Audi workshop manuals on the Allroad suspension, hoping to find some mention of what the thread pitch on the VOSS fittings was, or even some part number.

Each parts diagram listed the VOSS fittings as "Connector Piece" like in the diagram below #11


It wasn't until I got to the "Pressure Reservoir" A.K.A "Air Tank" that I saw it. #1"VOSS Connector System"


I almost continued on before there was a vinyl scratch in my mind, I scrolled back up and looked at #1 description, then back to the air tank, and back to #1. I'd always been searching for the layman's terms for the fittings like "Air fitting," "VOSS fitting," etc. Que tapping over to my Internet browser and tapping the words "VOSS Connector System" into Google.

I perused the VOSS website and entered into their pneumatics section. Some scrolling later, and there it was - topped by a lavender/pink swirly background that featured a white description. My eyes darted across the heading "VOSS Connector System 203" and the image of the fitting laid out like a centerfold in an old Playboy magazine. These fittings have been haunting me since I bought this car in April of 2017.


After the shock and awe of finding your dad's hidden nudie mag collection wore off, I went back to Google to sear my retinas in search of something technical that would tell me what the thread pitch of these fittings was.

I found the following link minutes later, and it's from Brazil of all places: https://www.voss.com.br/files/brazil...atalog_203.pdf

Page 12 of the above PDF lists the Allroad fittings as "Completed Assembly Set" with all the technical information I've been searching for, for the better part of a decade. Armed with the knowledge that Allroad air lines are 4mm OD, and my recent measurements of the fittings: 10mm hex, 8mm shank, and 1mm thread pitch I could see it there below.


Indisputable proof that these fittings were not BSP, BST, or any other weird Euro standard. These were plain old metric thread connectors with an O-ring to assist with sealing.

Finally, misinformation can be stopped and we can all move the platform forward together

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[Bordom]

I've gone and done the unthinkable, because I was under the impression beforehand that I was unable to order from Audi tradition.

Parts are surprisingly affordable. Shipping is not



If this goes well, I can source parts for US folk or do group buys like some others have done.

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[ShelbyM3]

Congratulations! The prices on their prop shafts are ridiculous right now!

Sorry, not sorry


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[Bordom]

Congratulations! The prices on their prop shafts are ridiculous right now!

Sorry, not sorry


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I was able to find a 4.2 Allroad auto shaft on their site for 500 Euro. I got lucky in that respect! The best part is everything comes with a 2yr warranty, so if the shaft is junk, hopefully they have another one made and sent to me!

I have some other goodies I found for good prices. I'll post pictures when it all comes in!

[Audibot]

I was just exploring tradition the other day. I think there were a couple parts I was interested in that thankfully come in fern green.

[Bordom]

The air suspension threw a fault at me Thursday afternoon when I was about to leave for work. I didn't think anything of it because the suspension light and headlights range warnings have been going on and off since February. I checked the codes because the suspension module was flashing level 1, and wouldn't turn the compressor on. DTC 01773 is the valve for the compressor inlet/exhaust was shorted and wouldn't run the compressor. I tried to crawl underneath and fiddle with the connector, but I couldn't take the connector off the valve block, and my pulling on it was actually breaking off the mounting brackets (due to rust).

So, instead of driving to my Salsa and Bachata classes, I rode there on my motorcycle. I would have towed the car back Friday, but surprise - I have to do first aid this weekend instead. Womp womp.

Anyways, I got back today around 5pm for the tow truck to take ol Bits back home, with an ETA of 60mims. Well, 4hrs later the guy finally shows up because he was running another call before me. Here is the car arrived


Between Audi Tradition, and all the fittings I'm going to need for the Airlift setup, I've dumped a fair amount into this suspension refresh I've had on the docket since 2018. Luckily, I've finally found a picture of a dual tank setup on Facebook. The old allroadFAQ site is down, so I wasn't able to see the originals


Stacking dual tanks here, I'll have enough air for 13.6L (3.9Gal) of air sitting at 200PSI.

I'm pretty confident I can mount the dual compressors on a bracket on the passenger boot trim panel, or stuff them into the area for the Bose subwoofer (I have to explore this option more since I'm retaining the factory amp(for now)).

Thursday I had also dropped off my extra set of rear shocks to get machined for the adapters. Hopefully it works out and I can have even suspension settings again.

Tomorrow the car is going to get blocked up, axles loosened, and get ready to drop the rear end. I've got to make a short trip into town and get some caliper paint for the 4 Pot Brembo upgrade, and I've got to get rotors ordered in.

A few packages showed up, but you'll get to see them tomorrow once everyone is awake

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[Bordom]

Some parts that rolled in last week, and today.

I have my M8x1 to 1/4" NPT adapters. Full stainless construction


Pretty sure you can fit a whole stock line through this adapter.


My Leatherique order came in. I got a full gallon of cleaner and conditioner. I'll be applying the conditioner to the passenger seat, since I won't have to sit in it for an extended time


Leatherique cleaner, for after you oil up your seats.


I got all my straight and elbow adapters from Mettle Air Canada. Great little shop in British Columbia. Based off of my system operating specs, I opted to get everything in Stainless because it could better handle the temperature requirements, and had a superior working pressure rating


Here is a manifold with 6x 1/4" ports. 2 inlet, 4 outlet. I'll have the two compressors feed both ends of the manifold, with the first port on each side going to their individual tanks. Both ends from the compressors will have water traps entering the manifold, and there will be a third water trap on the airlift feed port line.


Straight through design


I also got a remote high flow exhaust silencer. This will run from the Airlift manifold exhaust port.


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[Bordom]

I got to the car and jacked it all up in preparation for me to start tearing it apart. I tried something different this time around because the jack stands I have aren't the greatest


Here is the first coat of Leatherique on the passenger seat. Hopefully a toasty interior helps it all soak up


To my surprise, my second air tank was at my grandparents. I verified the tank fitting is indeed the same as all the others. This one specifically had quite a bit of corrosion. This is after cleaning with a small brass spiral brush


I threaded the adapter into the spare tank, and I sealed the threads with Permatex 59206 thread sealant


Installed one of the 1/4" elbows with sealant (I may have used a little too much


The instructions on the package say this cures in 24-72hrs. Good thing it's not going to be used for longer than that lol

Here is the manifold with some fittings installed. I haven't decided if I'm going to use elbow or straight fittings here yet. Thus, no sealant.


This is where I've left off so far. I got a call today that my shocks are completed machining, so I'll be picking those up tomorrow and verifying the work. I don't want to get stuck with another shock improperly machined.

Tomorrow I'm aiming to complete the following work:
1. Remove exhaust
2. Remove driveshaft
3. Remove wheels all around
4. Remove rear brake calipers
5. Remove ABS and suspension height sensors(rear suspension)
6. Drop the rear end onto a trolley

Off/evening time:
1. Paint front and rear calipers
2. Mock up aluminum subframe with new arms and hardware (jug of anti-sieze on standby)
3. Install rear bags onto new shocks
4. Get ready to burn out the bushings from the rear knuckles

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[jbain2]

Your commitment is unwavering! Congrats on that. Keep up the solid work!


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[Audibot]

Love it!

[ShelbyM3]

Dude, those 4x4’s under the car is awesome and terrifying at the same time. Be safe, make good choices, and I’m here to see your dreams come true! Keep us posted!


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[Bordom]

Today's progress:

I started about noon today after picking up my shocks from the machine shop. Got back and ripped the rear wheels off the car.

I found this mark on the driver side bag, and I can't figure out where it's coming from. It looks like the bag is splitting from some sort of defect


As I was crawling underneath to tackle the ABS sensor bolt, this monstrosity caught my eye. Looks like the shock mount on the Koni bushing failed catastrophically.


I checked the passenger side, and it didn't look like that. I tried removing the ABS, but 22yrs of salt did its thing and the sensor is fused in there. I contemplated cutting the wiring, but then I remembered it's supposed to feed through the bottom and under the passenger seat.

I popped the rear seat out and found the ABS/Height sensor wiring taped together like this. Wtf Audi lol


Once that was disconnected, it got fished through the holes in the floor and put aside. Same deal with the passenger side. Below is a picture of the rear end ready to drop with sensors, driveshaft, and bags disconnected. Trolley underneath to catch it.


Subframe loosened and resting on the trolley


It's at this point that I realized the car needed to be 6" higher at least for this plan to work properly. I ended up putting some more wood down and dropping the rear end onto those with the jack supporting it. Some wiggling after and it was free!


The process to this point was about 4hrs ish. Not a bad speed for a one man team.

Here's a better look at the drive side shock bushing. This is a ridiculous failure on Konis part, and it's a good thing these have a lifetime warranty. A claim will be going in for this one


After that, I spent the next couple hours trying to free the rear knuckles from their rusty prisons. Almost all the bolts came out, except the top one on the knuckle to the control arm. The bolt fused to the bushing inner race. I tried hammering it out, but that only bent the side I was hammering on outward. I ended up cutting the bolt head off with no success. The passenger side is still a work in progress


This is the driver side. It looks like the bolt backed off, or I forgot to tighten it. I'm going to go with the latter. I've paused for dinner before going to spend another couple hrs disassembling the rear end


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[Audibot]

Dang! Reminds me of the lower rear control arms on my mom's Passat last summer. I had to cut the bolt on both sides to free it up to drop. Thankfully I was replacing the whole thing.

How bad are the eccentrics?

[Calif_Kid]

If you have a air/pneumatic hammer and it will reach the car, maybe that would help to break that siezed bolt loose either by putting it at the end of the bolt or maybe on the collar. I've never had to use one on a car, but maybe a torch would help get that siezed bolt out? Anyway, nice job on dropping the subframe and differential etc...

- Jim

[Bordom]

If you have a air/pneumatic hammer and it will reach the car, maybe that would help to break that siezed bolt loose either by putting it at the end of the bolt or maybe on the collar. I've never had to use one on a car, but maybe a torch would help get that siezed bolt out? Anyway, nice job on dropping the subframe and differential etc...

- Jim

I don't have one. I'm going to switch the cutting blade on my grinder and try to cut them out. Both top bolts on the driver and passenger side are fused to the bushings. It's unexplainable to me how they both did that.

Dang! Reminds me of the lower rear control arms on my mom's Passat last summer. I had to cut the bolt on both sides to free it up to drop. Thankfully I was replacing the whole thing.

How bad are the eccentrics?

Funnily enough, I was able to extract the eccentrics without much of a fight lol. They were seized, but freed up eventually with enough heat and penetrating fluid. I have brand new ones to use, so they'll get loaded with anti-sieze before getting installed.

The weather forecast has changed for the next few days, so there's mostly rain in the mix. I'm going to use the opportunity to work on the ancillary items for all of the work before proceeding.

1. Paint calipers
2. Plan out the air suspension
3. Order the 02X transmission mount and peripheral material to mount to the chassis.

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[ShelbyM3]

Woof, Buuuudddyy. The rust! Way to wrestle it out. And I’m glad you listened to my advice

For the air bag, I almost wonder if the aluminum sleeve got a nick in the bottom edge and it sliced the bag as it traveled up and down? Weird failure, though.

Excited to see your progress!


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[Bordom]

Today's work focused on disassembling the stock rear end. It was a beautiful sunny day out, so that was a huge plus!

Freed both of the knuckles. I ended up flaring out the upper arm ears around the knuckle after cutting the bolts shallow enough.


After that, it was approaching the hotter part of the day, and I was already sweating buckets getting the knuckles freed, and removing control arms. This was my attempt at disassembling the rear diff, but it wasn't going to budge.


Facing that mild roadblock, I decided to move my attention under the car to remove the air suspension components and brackets. This is the general condition of the subframe mounting holes. All 4 are similar condition, and I wiped my hand across them to find all sorts of rust and filth underneath.



I feel as though I should take the opportunity to grind down, prime and paint those areas for additional protection prior to administering a heavy undercoat to protect everything. It's supposed to rain the next few days, so we'll see how that works out.

Here's the condition of the compressor and valve block assembly. As you can see, not the greatest.


This stud is hanging on for dear life


More cancerous growth


Miraculously, I was able to remove all 13mm bolts from the compressor brackets with minimal fight. Now my only question is what to do with all of the extra wiring hanging around.

Here are all the brackets removed to expose the sound deadening.


I removed the driver side exhaust shield to get access to one bolt hiding beneath. I still have some heat shield kicking around, so I may remake this if the studs are salvageable


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[Bordom]

I removed the sound deadening to find this sticker stuck to the spare tire well.



When you bring up the part number, it's specifically for the sound deadening used here. Also, whatever they used to stick that to the car was stuck mighty well.

Here's a shot of the upper bracket to the chassis


As you can see, this bracket probably would have made it another few years. Not bad for corrosion control from the early 2000s.


After I got everything disconnected, this was all of the rust on the blanket I was using. Keep in mind, this was all dropped on top of me with NO rear end in it. That's all from whatever was above that's rotted away


Final order of business for today was getting the knuckles bushings out. I decided to switch directions away from the Febi knuckle bushings, and purchase poly knuckle bushings from Power flex. This way it eliminates the need for a press to install all of the bushings.

Here's the first knuckle pair I did, halfway out.


My method of removal was burning out the bushings, using an angle grinder to slot the edge, and then a chisel to slowly work the sleeve out of the bore. It was actually pretty effective...mostly because fire


After that I used a flathead and gently tapped out the larger bits in the middle. I'll be getting a stainless brush attachment to clean out the hole properly in preparation for bushing install.


I'm switching project directions for the sole purpose of eliminating the "while you're in there" train of thought I always get lost on. Due to me starting Pre-Deployment in July, I can't be without a vehicle before my departure. So, unless Audi Tradition comes through, I'm going to live with the trans right now and enjoy the airlift while I have time still. The important objectives to accomplish was rear subframe, brake lines, and Airlift conversion.

On top of that, finding a transmission mount bracket for the tail shaft of an 02X has been more difficult than anticipated. Dealer price jumped $500 for the damn thing instead of $300 a month ago. Hopefully someone has it aftermarket or second hand.

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[Audibot]

Holy rust, Batman!

[LZ9ROAD]

Mine wasn't as rusty when I gave you the info, I have no idea how you got them out lmao, I struggled, even with clean non rusted stuff.....

[Bordom]

Mine wasn't as rusty when I gave you the info, I have no idea how you got them out lmao, I struggled, even with clean non rusted stuff.....

You gotta sweet talk the bolts and then man handle them real quick so they don't know what happened. Sometimes you gotta spit fire on them, but they'll loosen up real good lol

Good news! I got a message from Audi and the Tradition order has shipped! ETA is next Thursday

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[Bordom]

Didn't get much work done yesterday due to having to wait for a package to show up. I did however have some time to use the new hydraulic brake line tool I got to replace the handheld unit.

It's a Vevor unit that comes with a ton of different flaring dies. I used this bubble flare die to press into the chuck.


Set the tubing flat against the chuck outline, apply a thin amount of grease to the tubing die, screw in the body until it stops, then pump 5-6 times. You'll get a perfect flare literally every single time.




I regret not buying this from the get go. Now I want to replace every single line in the car because it's so easy lol

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[Audibot]

What did that tool set you back? Link?

[Bordom]

What did that tool set you back? Link?

https://a.co/d/9pCudr5

Link is to Amazon Canada. It was $264 CAD delivered the next day. It would have been $50 cheaper but I didn't want to wait until next week for it.

Here's a screenshot of the kit so people can search on their own Amazons.


Brake line ends should be very straightforward on the car. The hand held unit would have been such a PITA to do with steel lines.

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[Audibot]

Thanks! It's on my list for the next time I'm getting into that. I made do with a manual tool at the end of 2023 for my Allroad, and I will tell you it took me a few tries but it's not leaking. One of those tries was not putting the fitting on first hahaha

US link for anyone interested. $167 USD

[Bordom]

A little update:

On Saturday, I got sucked into helping my partner's family move. It originally started out as "ride back these motorcycles for them" and then morphed into 14hrs of hauling heavy stuff into and out of houses lol. No work was done on Saturday.

On Sunday, it went differently because I was absolutely exhausted from the day before. My partner was feeling needy. So, I decided to lay around with her and watch movies. No work done on Sunday.

On Monday, guess who had car trouble and needed it fixed? That's right, my partner lol. We ended up doing a control arm on her car (the original delaminated from the bushing sleeve), as well as a lug stud she had broken changing her wheels. The arm was more difficult than anticipated and that ate up about 3hrs. Changing the stud took another hr because technically you're supposed to remove the hub to get to the studs. I made it work with everything in the car.

When I finally got to my own car, it's about 5pm. Since I made the executive decision to not do a transmission swap anymore (weather is supposed to rain Wednesday - Saturday), I applied Leatherique to the driver seat. This is the before.


I still need to clean up the passenger seat to see how much that improved.

I totally forgot how the spacers for the subframe were front/rear dependant. Luckily I had one spacer with both of the springs still in it. All of the others had popped out one of them on removal. Here are the positions



It was at this point my grandfather says that he doesn't think the aluminum subframe will fit in the car. He showed me the edge of the subframe center holes to be 19" on the Allroad subframe (measuring from front to rear bushings on one side), and 19.25" on the aluminum frame. On the aluminum frame, the front subframe bushings are flipped 180° relative to the Allroad bushings. So, knowing that many people have swapped their subframes on All roads it should work fine. The only thing I wasn't too familiar on was how many people swapped to an aluminum frame and kept the spacers/air suspension. I got to work mocking it all up underneath the car. The rear part of the subframe went in with no issues. The front part of the subframe is where we ran into issues.

On mock up, I could only get 3/4 bolts in with the subframe and spacers. It turned out, I was having trouble with the driver side front bolt hole. Looking through the bushing, I had juuuuust enough room to sneak a bolt in with everything loose, but the bolt wouldn't thread in. Some of the threads had gotten galled on removal, and I hadn't noticed until trying to install everything else. I ended up chasing all the subframe bolt holes and pulled out fair bits of metal from the two front ones.

After that fiasco was over, I decided to leave the frame underneath the car and figure it all out later. I moved on to some things that were easier/needed to be done. I changed out the air tank fitting in the car. I'm glad I went with a 45° adapter because this spot was tight.


I also completed the setup of the air manifold. This will get mounted somewhere in here. I'll have to make a bracket for that/zip tie it to something else in this spot


Here's the manifold setup with all fittings receiving anaerobic sealant.


I'm going to adapt the fittings in the front shocks, and then probably run air line through the underbody of the car along the protected plastic rails. I'll have to see how difficult it'll be running line through the interior where the stock system went. It's full in the car at the moment.

Hopefully have more progress tonight

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[Bordom]

Had my Knuckle bushings show up. These are pretty stout units.



I'm going to use another Silicone Grease that has PTFE when these are installed. The bushings will be super loaded when they get installed.

I cleaned off the passenger seat today. This marked about 7 days with Leatherique applied about 4 times. After cleaning off, the seat has a noticeable sheen to it, and much of the roughness of the leather has subsided


Seat back


Seat bottom


Leatherique has started to rehydrate this leather. You can notice the shrunk spots have loosened a tad.


After earning that and loading up my driver seat I moved on to installing the second air tank. I bought M8 coupling nuts and M8 threaded rod. I threaded the coupling nuts down on the original air tank for the base.


Then threaded 3 7" long pieces of the threaded rod I cut into the coupling nuts. From there, another coupling nut per rod is going to be used for the base of the second air tank.


I had to cut down the plastic bracket that held the suspension control module so the second tank would fit.


Second tank fitted.


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[Bordom]

Here's closer looks at the install.


The nice thing about all of the couplings is that now the platform is adjustable. This picture was when I had first installed this. It's now closer to the original tank


Here's the piece I had to cut off the bracket.


How much clearance there is now with the second tank


Fitted up the side trunk panel to check fitment. The door closes with zero interference (not pictured)


I originally wanted to stuff the Airlift manifold and the custom one I built inside the driver compartment. What I didn't realize was how much room a second tank would actually encompass. Here's the airlift management sitting on top of the second tank. I could still stuff the other manifold in here but logistically it's difficult due to its size


My other thought was to mount the Airlift manifold on the same bracket the factory suspension module is on... It's only an inch too high lol


While running through possible places to put everything, I decided to open up the spare tire well and have a look. I got side tracked and ended up figuring out the air suspension wiring and air line tubing all ran through the underside of the Styrofoam in the spare compartment. I took the wiring out, and I wanted to remove the grommet, but without cutting out all of the wires and lines. I want to remove as much as possible without hacking anything away. Any tips, or should I find a parts car and take it from that?


Last thing I did for tonight was wire wheeled the rear knuckles of all the scale, and liberally coated them in Rust Check Rust Converter. I'm going to do multiple coats of this converter and the paint everything black. Maybe I'll use POR15, but probably not. Any paint recommendations?


Side note: the original bracket that held the emergency kit over the air tank actually has perfectly aligned holes to mount the Airlift management on. I'll slice it, dice it, then tig it together for something fresh.

Side-side note: any recommendations on where to put the management and compressors? I'm thinking the spare tire well because I don't have an option to air myself up a spare tire, nor have I put in an addition that would allow me to do that (I probably should). Space is limited, so let me know!


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[Audibot]

That's a pretty ingenious solution for the dual tanks. Awesome work! I feel like spare well is where most people put their aftermarket compressors. Idk how hot it gets in there with both working at once, so at worse, you might need a fan.

[Bordom]

This is a picture heavy update today. I masked off and cleaned up the Q5/Macan calipers in preparation to paint them. Here they are hung up outside


Innovative hanging solution


Professional masking services


High quality engine enamel, Flame Red Metallic


Now that I'm done saying things off a bad early 2000s infomercial/eBay/Temu listings, they're currently finishing drying with the fourth and final coat. I used the whole can for these two calipers.

I got a delivery notification that the Tradition order would be coming shortly. When it arrived, it arrived in this gigantic box


Interior of said box


Opening up the smaller box inside, here are a few of the knobs I picked up:

Black on black 6-spd Knob and boot


Grey on Oak 5-spd knob and boot


Grey on lighter wood 6-spd Knob and boot.


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[Bordom]

Here are some of the shifter surrounds
Grey soft touch


Black soft touch


I've been looking for a replacement cover for this switch. Every single one I've found is the regular ones without folding mirror option


Driver side brake line. Hopefully it's as easy to install as it looks. (if needed)


Part number for this line if anyone is interested


This was manufactured in 2019, right before it all went to Audi Tradition


The passenger side brake line. This looks incredibly involved, and I wouldn't be surprised if this was an engine/trans out install


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[Bordom]

Here we are at the whole reason why I got this in the first place. The driveshaft for a 4.2 Allroad.


This wasn't what I was expecting when I opened the box. Very foamy


I like these caps for the ends. I'll be keeping them after this goes in for maintenance purposes


Take a look at this center support. I can't fathom why they thought a 4.2 AR would abuse the center so much and a modified 2.7T wouldn't lol.


Anyone ever seen a joint so clean?


This is going to be sitting around for a while. Luckily the shaft is marked where the runout is on the rear. I'll take the lack of runout identification on the front as it's GTG

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[Audibot]

Happy birthday! Those are some nice shiny gifts you got there. That driveshaft is mint (chef's kiss)

Curious on how the calipers look after drying/curing.

[ShelbyM3]

I’m so jealous! Amazing score and so beautiful to see new C5 parts!


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[allroadc5]

yeah that’s crisp…score




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[Bordom]

Caliper post!

I'm enjoying how this engine enamel came out. The Canadian Tire I went to didn't have caliper clear, but I think I'll travel to another one and grab that to give this some extra protection from brake fluid. Anyways, let's get to the good stuff!

-----------------------*NSFW CONTENT BELOW, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK*-----------------------












This is the best taping I've ever done for a caliper, and I'm happy I spent the 30mins taping it all off. It looks professional lol.

Once I get the caliper clear, I'll spray a few coats on there and then go to install these. I'm hoping these fit under the stock 17" wheels. I'll more than likely need to run the 15mm spacers I use for the 20" A7 competition wheels.

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[Audibot]

Those are gorgeous. And there goes my employment

[Bordom]

Happy birthday! Those are some nice shiny gifts you got there. That driveshaft is mint (chef's kiss)

Curious on how the calipers look after drying/curing.

Thank you! I was initially confused by the happy birthday, but I understand that now lol

I’m so jealous! Amazing score and so beautiful to see new C5 parts!


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Yessir! I'm quite surprised how cheap some of the Audi tradition prices are. They'll get you on the shipping though.

yeah that’s crisp…score




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Man, that's rough. How are you progressing with that project?

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