Bordom's Allroad; Boat in the Street

[Bordom]

why must everyone quote FULL pages of photos?

Not an issue on Tapatalk. I assume your using a PC?

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[m_haiser]

yeah I have a crap phone that doesn't have enough memory for luxuries such as tapatalk lol

[boston s4]

Is. the radio still available. D I you have code ? So it could be reinstalled?
Thanks


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[Bordom]

Is. the radio still available. D I you have code ? So it could be reinstalled?
Thanks


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Yeah still got it. Code is written right on top. It's in a box somewhere lol

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[2er-edition]

Also, found what looks to be some sort of bag in the frame rail. With the amount of things I've been finding in this wagon, I wouldn't be surprised if it's something illegal lol. Does anyone have an idea? I can't reach it with my hand


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This is normal my C5 has the same in every Framerail. I think it is to stop Dirt and Water getting deeper in the Frames where it can't get out.

[Bordom]

I'm back to this thread. Finally finished my V8 swap with the thread located here: https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...2 V8 Swap Info

I made it a total of 7km before I jerked the car starting in first and popped off the lower rad hose.


I love how this hose is easily accessible here. By design folks lol


Fixed that and went on another 9km test drive. The car is super loud but quite responsive with my clutch setup.

I'm happy with the car this far, but I dont want to sound like such an asshole driving around lol

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[Bordom]

I was getting constant oil pressure lights with no destructive sounds coming from the engine. It would come and go at whim. Even with the key turned to the on position, it would randomly generate faulty oil pressure warnings.

Got the old switch out by disassembling the passenger sway bar bracket, dropping the sway bar, and loosening the motor mount just enough. I was able to slip a 15/16 long wrench onto the switch to break it loose and then thread out. The work area and things removed


Sway bar dropped


Old oil pressure sensor. Being tucked up against the frame rail is a bit of a PITA, but was quite doable.



Here is it replaced.



Not bad for a first time engine in car repair. Hopefully I never see that light again, because if I do I'll be very sad.

Switch was only $12 BTW from the local parts store. Good thing VAG used these switches in pretty much everything for the last 25-30 yrs

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[Bordom]

Filled up with gas yesterday and the car wouldn't start. I pulled the rear seat, banged on the tops of the fuel pump lids, banged under the fuel tank where the pumps were located, checked fuses and still would not start.

One of my first thoughts besides fuel pump was that it may have vapor locked the system, which would have lead me to believe the fuel pressure regulator was not doing its job of maintaining pressure. My dad brought over his fuel pressure tester I bought him in early 2018 to help me diagnose.

We hooked it up to the return line on the back of the fuel pressure regulator after trying to connect it to the feed line (improper fittings and hose sizes required to connect to the feed line, after I had taken it apart). He had also gone to the back and relieved the pressure in the tank by opening and then closing the cap. We tried to start it and the car barely lurched to life before dying. Starting it a second time saw it run normally without issue.

After researching a while after returning home, I saw that many people who have had hot start issues saw their issues resolved when replacing the crank position sensor. I had this issue previously in my 96 A4, where it wouldn't start when hot unless given 1-2hrs to cool down.

While I ordered a crank position sensor, I also ordered a multitude of other smaller items as well:
-Sparks plugs
-Ignition coils
-CTS (coolant temp sensor)
-Fan control module
-Cabin air filter

These will be going in sometime next week to make sure the car is up to snuff. Hopefully I can get all of it installed within an afternoon.

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[Bordom]

Fitted my catback to try and eliminate so much sound from the downpipes. As it turns out.

Pre-installation: car in level 4 on 2 inch wood blocks.





It was interesting doing this on my own, and thankfully I had brand new bolts to go with them.

Catback fitted.


There is a catch, I though the downpipes would be a bit longer, but the driver side downpipe and the catback are in the right positions. Should just weld up a flex joint with the V-band and that pipe is good.


The issue is the passenger pipe. The catback on that side is way too high, so it makes things more interesting. This pipe will have to be cut and repositioned to fit correctly.


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[Bordom]

Started off the day pretty well. Got my stuff from Rockauto.



Factory Bosch sidefires.



A new FCM so the car doesn't die in traffic.




Then I got to work.



Coilpacks removed.



Cylinder 5



Cylinder 6



Cylinder 7



Cylinder 8



The spark plugs were whiter than I expected, indicating it's been running lean. No doubt with some vacuum leaks still and these open downpipes. I've since unplugged the MAF so the car runs smoother instead of sounding like a big block.

While in this area I got to doing the crank sensor as well. This replacement took all of 10mins. The old one is clearly done its duty.



Driver side buttoned up


I replaced the fan control module (FCM) next as I was still on the driver side. The 2 10mm buts holding the FCM to the frame rail are actually IN FRONT of the horn of the frame rail. I was able to get a 10mm wrench in there and break the nuts loose. Once removed, I moved the new FCM to a more suitable location and zip tied it to the old intercooler side mount.



While under the car I noticed it had spontaneously begun to drip from the side of the oil pan. It was water, but I hadn't driven it in the rain yet. Upon closer inspection I saw that I had begun to leak coolant from the dreaded oil cooler pipe. Another part I neglected to replace while the engine was out. Hurray! Oil cooler pipe has been ordered, and I also need to order the gaskets from the dealer to do it right. Another weekend fallen victim to this passion.

Finally, I replaced the cabin filter. The old one was definitely passed due.


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[Bordom]

I got to work today about noon, ripping into the car to get the oil cooler repaired.

About 30 mins in and I already had the front clip removed, and jack ready to raise.


Space in front of the car. Nothing like a parking lot to work out of.


About 3hrs in, I removed the oil cooler. I cleaned up the oil cooler itself and the motor mount bracket; carefully scraping off corrosion and cleaning the crevices to install the new o-rings.


The old seals looked good still.


Bracket/oil cooler out of the engine nook.


The factory oil cooler tube didn't crack in half like I've heard. It actually broke in the block and oil cooler.


Using a flathead screw driver I was able to fish out the ends. A pick would have been much better.


You can see below that the plastic oil cooler tube was missing about .5" of material. I recommend pressing the billet oil cooler tube into bracket first, then attach it into the block. You'll have a hell of a time trying to get the bracket on with the tube pressed into the block first


Spent about 7hrs total. If you're good a time of 5hrs is doable, but budget closer to 10-12 hrs if you're not so mechanically inclined

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[Bordom]

Allroad down.

A guy walking on the sidewalk played chicken with my car. His buddy pushed him into me and the guy ended up smashing my shit. Him and his friends bolted and I ran after them and apprehended the guy who destroyed my mirror. After a group gathered around me I let him go and told them to make sure he didnt run off. I went back to my car, told the gf to make sure he didn't run. When she got back there, he saw her and bolted into the street and got hit by another car.

Police showed up and took statements. I'm ok, so is my girl.

Here's the damage:

Mirror housing broken clean off the mount.


The mirror itself is shattered into a bunch of pieces. Half the backing plate is also destroyed.


When the mirror got pushed in, it dented the chrome piece here. Since its riveted in there, I think there's no efficiently repairing it. Possible replacement door skin?


The kid left his teeth Mark's in my window. Actually catches the finger nail, so no doubt also needs replacement.


I'm concerned that a new mirror housing, door skin and door frame w/glass is gonna total the car. I haven't look yet, but it's probably a couple k to fix with new parts.

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[rhyan.cole]

Somebody pushed their friend into oncoming traffic?

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[Bordom]

Somebody pushed their friend into oncoming traffic?

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They played chicken with the car in front of me. I slowed down and he tried the same thing, but his friend thought it'd be better to push him.

This all happened at about 20km/h. I wont give anymore details on the matter until its resolved.

Just looked up a rough parts estimate. I have the door skin in there because I don't think the chrome strip is available separately. I'll have to book with a body shop to be sure.


Prices gathered from Genuine Audi Parts.

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[Bordom]

Appointment booked to get an appraisal of damages

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[Bordom]

So I've had the worst experience thus far with my insurance company. Absolutely no communication from my adjuster and impossible to get into contact with.

I had to go into the body shop today for my scheduled drop off, just to find out that my car is deemed a total loss.

$4789 damages from this fucken retarded kid who was high/drunk and made stupid friends. Here's the page.


Currently exploring options so the car doesn't come off with a salvage title.

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[8520]

I’m not sure how insurance companies work in Canada but I’ll relate my experience.

My wife totaled a Saturn a few years back in an equal fault accident. We elected to take the payout of $2800 and fix ourselves.

Car before the accident was a clean title car, that we owned outright.

After the payout the title status never changed. We sold the car with a clean title even though it was clearly wrecked in the front.

I don’t believe an insurance company can change the title status of your car unless they take possession of the car and perform the repairs or send it through auction. YMMV


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[JorisRS6]

Cant you just replace the mirror housing with a used unit and ignore the dent and scratch. It sucks but i wouldnt want my car to be written off over something pretty minor.


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[happy2B5]

Was thinking same from day one. The damage aside from the mirror looks pretty minor. Maybe I am missing something?

[Bordom]

I'll be getting about $3800 to repair the car on my own. The catch is insurance wants receipts to show that I actually repaired it and didn't run off with the money lol.

I've already got the new mirror in, but it doesn't seat the mirror properly because I can twist the mirror housing even with it being tight. I'll be needing a new door frame for that.

I've also got a body shop that I wanted to paint the whole car at, so hopefully it'll be good. I'm on a mission to find a facelift hood and grille to swap out for the prefacelift items on the Allroad. It's gonna be a wild spring.

[happy2B5]

Nice. Appreciate the dedication to fix it and not cave. Guess pics didnt tell whole story.

[Bordom]

Nice. Appreciate the dedication to fix it and not cave. Guess pics didnt tell whole story.

Yeah, I wasn't about to let 250+ swap hours go to waste over a mirror. Plus I want to have this thing as mint as possible when I hand it over to the future wife (who actually really wanted me to buy the car).

I've got a line on rust free door shells, hatch and facelift hood. I'll be cleaning up the interior of the door shells/hatch and then coating them in POR15 to prevent further rusting from the inside. I'll also coat the lower lip of the door/hatch so that it doesn't rust behind the door blades or trim piece on the hatch.

Might also POR15 the quarters and fenders where its hidden underneath the flare to prevent rusting there as well.

Huge plans, so stay tuned.

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[Bordom]

Replaced my Alternator today because it would wander between 13 and 12 volts today. I've been weary of the alternator since installation, simply because the voltage regulator would trip the battery light if it didn't rev over 1500rpm on a start.

Well, lemme tell you, HUGE difference in cold start functionality. The car used to start and idle at 1k and quickly drop to 750rpm when cold. The first start with the new alternator had it idling at 1200rpm for 40 seconds, then dropped rpm as I'm used to seeing with my other Audi. I knew I should have had it rebuilt lol

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[Bordom]

New wheels: 265/35r20, 20x9 ET37


The tire just rubs as pictured below. Will need a 255, 245 for sure. Wanna try and run the 255 but that's a lot of cash I dont have for a guess lol




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[happy2B5]

Can you space them out? With the et37 on a 9" wheel there should be plenty of room to move them out some. Granted mine are only 18, but are 10" wide with a 265/40 and final et of 13 or so. Barely rub outboard on level 1 402'd lower on one corner over significant dips at highway speeds.

[Bordom]

Can you space them out? With the et37 on a 9" wheel there should be plenty of room to move them out some. Granted mine are only 18, but are 10" wide with a 265/40 and final et of 13 or so. Barely rub outboard on level 1 402'd lower on one corner over significant dips at highway speeds.

They're already spaced out 15mm in that pic. I'd have to change studs and get 20mm spacers. Just easier to get 255/245

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[Allroad2.7T]

Love the choice in wheels and they look really good on your car!

FWIW...On my ‘02 allroad I am running 2017 A7 wheels that are 19x9 ET32 with 255/40R19 Tires and 25mm spacers. Front wheels only rub if they are turned all the way and it’s only against the front of the wheel liner. Don’t have any issues on the highway on level one.


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[Bordom]

Love the choice in wheels and they look really good on your car!

FWIW...On my ‘02 allroad I am running 2017 A7 wheels that are 19x9 ET32 with 255/40R19 Tires and 25mm spacers. Front wheels only rub if they are turned all the way and it’s only against the front of the wheel liner. Don’t have any issues on the highway on level one.


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I was running 19x8.5 et38 RS6 reps with 245/40r19 tires. They had plenty clearance with the spindle on my 15mm spacer.

Throw up a pic of yours


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[Allroad2.7T]

Here’s a couple of pics. When I got the 25mm spacers I was worried that they might poke outside but ended up flush with the fender flares. Love the stance in the end.

Snapseed.jpg

1136F4B220F4417A9BBB66E5C2B3B8EF.jpg

B4FF13AC772D467786B6C1E6464DD16C.jpg


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[Bordom]

Those look great! The issue I have is that these wheels already sit pretty flush. Any more and it'll be way too poked for my liking.

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[happy2B5]

Call me crazy but I really prefer the rs6 reps...just my unsolicited $.02

[Allroad2.7T]

Those look great! The issue I have is that these wheels already sit pretty flush. Any more and it'll be way too poked for my liking.

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Thanks!

Yea understand your concern. I got new tires about 6 months ago and tried going down to a 245 width and ended up going back to Discount Tire a week later and got a 255 instead. The 245 didn’t provide much protection for the rim and i didn’t really care for the look as the tire looked a little stretched. Curious to see how the smaller tire size helps with clearance.


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[Bordom]

I've noticed that the front crank seal has started leaking on the motor. What a time to start failing lol

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[Bordom]

For those of you looking for an app to help you decide on a ride height, use Suspension Master.This is gonna help me dial in next years look, as well as the final product with air.

Stock level 2


Below level 1


Slammed


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[flyfishing]

Here’s mine one level 1 with same wheels I believe.

IMG_3954.JPG


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[Bordom]

Sprayed some WD40 on it so it could eat away the goop. Wiped off pretty easily.


You can see the bubbling under the door molding. I ended up standing and grinding most of that out.





Waiting for the metal watch to do its thing and we'll be on to putting the sealant in
Body work on my rust free panels starts and it'll likely all be done into the new year. 4 days to do 4 panels, so it should be pretty good.

Front passenger door is apart moldings/frame separated from the shell. My lady cleaning up the caked on dirt(so much when we took it off).


Ends are pretty decent



Took a hair dryer and a scraper and took out the OEM sound deadener with some new 80mil stuff from Noico. Fun fact, the factory sound deadener is attached before the car is painted.

[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181229/1515a4c717ff6d

As you can see from the pictures above, theres still rust on a rust free panel.



38a18ca1c5d58d2a5b.jpg[/IMG]

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[Bordom]

Apologies for the messed up view. Tapatalk isnt playing ball

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[Bordom]

Decided I'll post in short snippets since taparalk doesn't like 17 pics in a post lol

I decided to paint the entire inner portion of the door and a portion of the lower lip for the molding. Good thing this is paintable over top.


Finished up the front passenger door with sound deadening. Noico 80mil covering most of the door.


Started next on the driver rear door. Stripped it to find almost no rust on the interior of the panel. What a God-send.




Stripped off the sound deadening


Waiting for it to come apart before wiping off and degreasing


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[Bordom]

Did it up on the front driver door. Some rust and bubbling as the other door, however not anything that can't be handled.

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[Bordom]

Started stripping the hatch and was looking for ways to remove the chrome trim. I finally got it removed and was not impressed with an otherwise mint hatch.

I ground most of it off and its thankfully just surface rust.

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