Bordom's Allroad; Boat in the Street

[Frankie_6MT]

Ya I would mos Def delete the SAI man. Crazy not too. At least on the east coast, there is no system check for SAI in inspection protocol. They will see in a visual inspection u have no cats before anything

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[Bordom]

Ya I would mos Def delete the SAI man. Crazy not too. At least on the east coast, there is no system check for SAI in inspection protocol. They will see in a visual inspection u have no cats before anything

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I'll take a photo of my emissions test for you. SAI is checked here amongst almost everything else.

Here are the long tubes I've been talking about. B6 S4 SSAC Longtubes for this application. They should fit without much (if any) modification.




The collectors do need a bunch of work, so I'm thinking of having them modified so the collector is more efficient. I.e. elongating the part where the tubes have already merged before going 2.5"


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[8520]

Curious how those long tubes will fit. Will they fit s6 too?

[Bordom]

Curious how those long tubes will fit. Will they fit s6 too?

No idea. I assume so because widebody. However, I've heard on B5s you pretty much need to cut the tubes in half because it goes right into the floor board.

With the A6 being larger and my having an Allroad with those huge 25mm bushings, I'm hoping there isn't any clearance issues with the way they are currently. I'll find out during test fitting though

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[8520]

No idea. I assume so because widebody. However, I've heard on B5s you pretty much need to cut the tubes in half because it goes right into the floor board.

With the A6 being larger and my having an Allroad with those huge 25mm bushings, I'm hoping there isn't any clearance issues with the way they are currently. I'll find out during test fitting though

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Interesting. $600 or so might not be the best investment for the s6 I hope to buy this year, in light of rs6 conversion.

[Bordom]

Interesting. $600 or so might not be the best investment for the s6 I hope to buy this year, in light of rs6 conversion.

I would leave it because the motor has to come out for these things anyways.

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[Bordom]

Ya I would mos Def delete the SAI man. Crazy not too. At least on the east coast, there is no system check for SAI in inspection protocol. They will see in a visual inspection u have no cats before anything

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here's my emissions test


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[Frankie_6MT]

here's my emissions test


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Free? What's this too good to be true image? Looks like a pass with all those not ready's and freeeeee? 👀

How do I get Canadian citizenship?

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[Bordom]

Free? What's this too good to be true image? Looks like a pass with all those not ready's and freeeeee?

How do I get Canadian citizenship?

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They just changed it this year because people were complaining it was a money grab (which it was). They made conditional passes even harder to get and you can't have consecutive conditional passes. You can also have 1 readiness code not ready, so

A retest is something like $20 whereas before it was $35

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[8520]

I would leave it because the motor has to come out for these things anyways.

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Well assuming I don't buy one that's already 6 speed swapped, that will be high on the priority list.

[boston s4]

This is great. I had a allroad MT6 and had to part with it a few years ago. It had the clutch replaced and they botched the job.
I really wish I kept it---
I just found a 05 allroad that is an automatic, but I went for it because I need a car that can haul the dog -work in New England winters and be park on the street - meaning not care about city rash.


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[Bordom]

So, new issue. Recently replaced the hazard relay with a new one from my shop. Worked fine until just now when I signaled. The relay is now on all the time until I actuate it with the stalk or press the hazard relay itself.

I think it is the relay while the shop says it's my stalk. Opinions?

The replacement is a Uro parts hazard relay (wouldn't have bought if I knew what it was before I threw out the original).

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[8520]

Unfortunately turn signal issues are hard to track down with these cars.

So you replaced the hazard switch because the signals were acting up and now they're acting up again?

Parts failure on a brand new part is pretty unlikely, I'd vote stalk or wiring.

My last allroad had a buzzing issue with the hazard switch. Drove me crazy. I replace the hazard switch AND the stalk and it still persisted. Sold the car...

[KSEADUB]

Meh. If its a Uro part, i’d immediately suspect that. Got a pick n pull near? I bet its a part common to most Audi/VWs of the era. Go pull one for cheap to teat before you throw more money at other parts.

Or, better yet, just test the relay.


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[Bordom]

I solved my issue using WD-40.

Apparently there are issues with the stalk if you experience constant buzzing of the hazard relay when not using it, and the buzzing goes away when you signal or push the hazard button.

In my research, one guy drove around with his relay buzzing for 3 months before finally trying to solve it. He sprayed WD-40 into the stalk and it fixed his issue.

Not wanting to pull the steering wheel and replace the stalk/destroy the clock spring, I decided to give the WD a shot because I had some on hand. Put the stalk into the left/right signal position, sprayed some WD-40 real quick and then pushed it forward for high beam left/right turn signals and did the same thing.

It worked and my issue is solved. When the car gets taken apart later I'll have to address that properly by cleaning the contacts in the stalk. For now however, it can wait.

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[KSEADUB]

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[Bordom]

So in addition to the flange play it's actively gotten worse to the point it creaks/groans over every little bump and movement of the steering wheel. It also developed a grinding sound in the brakes I suspect somewhere on the driver side.

There's no way this thing is going to survive until April; I'm going to be parking this thing in the meantime until my summer car is ready to go. Good thing my family has an abundance of cars to use lol.

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[JorisRS6]

I'll take a photo of my emissions test for you. SAI is checked here amongst almost everything else.

I pulled out my sai on my rs6. Didnt know they were cheching these in canada. We ll see what happens this spring....

Awesome work so far bordom!!

[Bordom]

I pulled out my sai on my rs6. Didnt know they were cheching these in canada. We ll see what happens this spring....

Awesome work so far bordom!!

Thanks!

Picked up some great condition vacuum pods for the 4.2.


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[Bordom]

Some actual shots now that I have the pods. They hold vacuum and look much better than before. They should hopefully be going on this weekend if I can find time. Also, gotta work on the one intake flap properly and get new vacuum lines for the motor. Does anyone have a vacuum diagram of the S6 4.2?


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[Bordom]

Replaced my battery because the car would crank for 1 second and then die after sitting for more than a day. I've been driving my father's car for the time being since my tranny is going, but I gotta swap again since the axle on his is now also destroyed lol

Went to Partsource and walked in to ask the guy about a battery for the Allroad. He asked me how many cold cranking amps (CCA) the battery had currently and I said I didn't know. Apparently the Allroad comes with 2 different CCA. 975CCA and 1050CCA. I grabbed the 975 because it had a 4yr free replacement and I didn't think it would fit anyways.

Walking out with my new semi sized battery and a few hundred dollars lighter, I drove to my car to install it; unsure if it would even fit.

Popped my hood and pulled out the old battery, which was about the size of the one in my old S4. All 590CCA


That's when I noticed how big the battery tray actually was. It can take up to 4 different sized batteries, which surprised me. Plopped this semi truck sized battery in and hooked it all up. Absolutely gargantuan.


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[m_haiser]

yeah the battery in these is absolutely massive! spendy as all hell too.

[Alex JB]

Same as mine non allroad but 2.7tt, it’s mahoosive!

I’m just designing the Powertrain for a new telehandler, 3.6L turbo diesel off highway Perkins engine, will start at -19 degC and the battery is only 1000CCA!


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[Bordom]

I've gotten some grinding from the rear brakes weeks ago, but I didn't care about it enough to go and fix it. Well, it got bad enough for me to look at it seriously.

I got down and took the rear driver wheel off. At first I thought the caliper bolts were stripped and I expected the worst. Once those were loose, I undid the caliper to carrier bolts and took it apart.


I found the inner pad material to have broken away from the backing plate. It was just the backing plate riding on the inside of the rotor.


Comparing it to the outboard pad, it looks awful.


The other side of the rotor which is freshly machined lol


Tried to retract the piston in the caliper, but it was over extended and seized in the bore. No spinning that thing back in.

The guide pins on one side were totally seized, and the other side was ok. I ended up replacing the entire thing with a new remanufactured caliper and new pads.

I tried fitting the brakes off of the S6 I got with my S6 motor. The caliper bolted up fine to the brake lines and parking brake, however there's interference with the rotor and the way the ears are.

I figure if have the caliper carrier ears shaved approx 2mm, and the ears on the upright will be shaved 2mm.

The easier way would be to use 4.2 spindles, but I'm not sure if I wanna get all that up and ready just yet. Looks like I'll have the same issues with the front, so I might just go that route if I find a 4.2 being parted locally.

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[ChicagosPhantom]

I've gotten some grinding from the rear brakes weeks ago, but I didn't care about it enough to go and fix it. Well, it got bad enough for me to look at it seriously.

I got down and took the rear driver wheel off. At first I thought the caliper bolts were stripped and I expected the worst. Once those were loose, I undid the caliper to carrier bolts and took it apart.


I found the inner pad material to have broken away from the backing plate. It was just the backing plate riding on the inside of the rotor.


Comparing it to the outboard pad, it looks awful.


The other side of the rotor which is freshly machined lol


Tried to retract the piston in the caliper, but it was over extended and seized in the bore. No spinning that thing back in.

The guide pins on one side were totally seized, and the other side was ok. I ended up replacing the entire thing with a new remanufactured caliper and new pads.

I tried fitting the brakes off of the S6 I got with my S6 motor. The caliper bolted up fine to the brake lines and parking brake, however there's interference with the rotor and the way the ears are.

I figure if have the caliper carrier ears shaved approx 2mm, and the ears on the upright will be shaved 2mm.

The easier way would be to use 4.2 spindles, but I'm not sure if I wanna get all that up and ready just yet. Looks like I'll have the same issues with the front, so I might just go that route if I find a 4.2 being parted locally.

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I gave my buddy my S6 rear calipers and carriers. He fitted those to his allroad with S8 D2 rotor. It really looked nice, however not a complete rotor surface was used with that setup.

[Bordom]

I gave my buddy my S6 rear calipers and carriers. He fitted those to his allroad with S8 D2 rotor. It really looked nice, however not a complete rotor surface was used with that setup.

So he had S6 rear brakes with the S8 rear rotor? Did he have to modify the carrier or hub in any way?

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[ChicagosPhantom]

So he had S6 rear brakes with the S8 rear rotor? Did he have to modify the carrier or hub in any way?

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Correct, it was a direct bolt on, no modification to anything.
D2 rear is 280mm.

You can try and find allroad V8 carriers and rotors (269mm) for perfect fit. All V8 C5s cary the same caliper, except boosted one, also B5 S4 same caliper different carrier, you can source that one easier and go with B5 S4 rear rotor (256mm).

[Bordom]

Correct, it was a direct bolt on, no modification to anything.

Guess I'll order a disc off rockauto and see how it turns out. Going to an even bigger 280mm rotor would be great. From the S6 stock 269mm

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[Bordom]

It's been a while but finally ready to start working on the Allroad. Area is prepped and ready to start using.

I got my flywheel from TTV. 18lb billet 4.2 8 bolt Flywheel, 11.2mm shorter so no need to use the trans spacer, and machined to accept the B7 RS4 flywheel.






Area ready to go. I'm also swapping trans from the 4.375 final drive to 4.11, rear diff to match


I started work on the 4.2 first. I wanted to be sure I could remove the exhaust manifolds without snapping all the studs. Here's what they looked like before:


All crusty and looking mighty seized.

I put map gas and candle wax to work (since I didn't have penetrating fluid), so I finally got the driver side manifold free.






Moving to the passenger side, I got every nut free except the last really long one. She decided to shear right off and I was in disbelief.


Multiple cycles of heat and candle wax later, and I was able to get the stud out with some channel locks. Hopefully I can get some new exhaust studs and nuts at the local parts store.




I'm removing the manifolds because I didn't receive the downpipes to go with them. I'll also need to swap my alternator over from the 2.7T, as well as buy a starter and MAF. Also, the studs looked like this, so no bueno.


Moving on after that obstacle, I found the rear main seal to be leaking. More specifically, the bottom of the cover as opposed to the seal itself. I went to the dealer and ordered the flange gasket to replace the destroyed one.


Also noticed these dowel pins are bent. Will this cause any issues?






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[hoganalley]

It's been a while but finally ready to start working on the Allroad. Area is prepped and ready to start using.

I got my flywheel from TTV. 18lb billet 4.2 8 bolt Flywheel, 11.2mm shorter so no need to use the trans spacer, and machined to accept the B7 RS4 flywheel.






Area ready to go. I'm also swapping trans from the 4.375 final drive to 4.11, rear diff to match


I started work on the 4.2 first. I wanted to be sure I could remove the exhaust manifolds without snapping all the studs. Here's what they looked like before:


All crusty and looking mighty seized.

I put map gas and candle wax to work (since I didn't have penetrating fluid), so I finally got the driver side manifold free.






Moving to the passenger side, I got every nut free except the last really long one. She decided to shear right off and I was in disbelief.


Multiple cycles of heat and candle wax later, and I was able to get the stud out with some channel locks. Hopefully I can get some new exhaust studs and nuts at the local parts store.




I'm removing the manifolds because I didn't receive the downpipes to go with them. I'll also need to swap my alternator over from the 2.7T, as well as buy a starter and MAF. Also, the studs looked like this, so no bueno.


Moving on after that obstacle, I found the rear main seal to be leaking. More specifically, the bottom of the cover as opposed to the seal itself. I went to the dealer and ordered the flange gasket to replace the destroyed one.


Also noticed these dowel pins are bent. Will this cause any issues?






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I believe those pins locate the transmission. You will need new ones unless you can just squeeze them back to somewhat round.

There was another post on here about how those got f'd and the guy had to pull his tranny again

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[Bordom]

Finished off the day with the motor almost ready to pull. Hopefully it goes smoothly.

Spent most of my time fighting seized bolts in the driveline (axle bolts/driveshaft). Exhaust was dropped and out of the way. Rear diff is less than 10 bolts away from coming right out and being swapped. I feel like I need to change all the fluids before sending them back in there.



Also, found what looks to be some sort of bag in the frame rail. With the amount of things I've been finding in this wagon, I wouldn't be surprised if it's something illegal lol. Does anyone have an idea? I can't reach it with my hand


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[n8henn]

Fat sack o cash? Haha! I believe I saw someone else post a similar finding but not quite remembering the conclusion. Sound deadening material perhaps?

[Bordom]

And the motor is finally out.




Tomorrow I will be splitting the engine/trans and mocking up the 4.2 and checking fitment of those longtubes.

I could not for the life of me get the motor/trans to lift over my axles, so I ended up taking them out. More detailed pictures tomorrow

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[JorisRS6]

Nice work. I missed why you are pulling the engine?

[Bordom]

4.2 swap

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[Bordom]

I was trying to install the motor for mock up with the headers, but the headers are far too long for a narrow body C5. The contact where the frame rails meet the floor. Looking at how they're setup with the trans, it just barely makes it over the mount.


I'll have to have it shortened approx 8inches and then rebuilt from there. However, I don't have the resources to bring a motor to them to mock up.

I also clearances the oil filter housing with the tubes because it interfered.




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[Bordom]

***Update to now***

Today I got some more work done. Went and picked up a starter and 1.8T radiator.

Immediately took the starter and sent it off to get rebuilt locally.




I haven't looked over the harness yet, but I think I'll be missing some grounds. I'll have to transfer over the ground strap from the 2.7T for the positive battery terminal.

The radiator is totally mint as well. No bent fins anywhere, other than being a bit dusty.



Also ran to the parts store and got new bolts for the header to downpipe. I was able to reuse the retainers after knocking out the disgusting old bolts. Copper anti-sieze will be going on those.


The worst part of these v8 brackets is the 7/8" gap between the chassis rails and bracket. I went out and got 28 12mm spacers, and 4 thinner ones to use and take up space, however I only ended up using 4 12mm spacers on the outside (towards fenders), and 5 12mm spacers on the inside (towards the bay).


Got the rear diff out and the flanges swapped. That should be reinstalled relatively quickly, then on to making sure the motor fits in the bay before installing the clutch and flywheel.

I did the rear main seal before stopping for the night. Scraped off the old gasket, brake clean and sanded down the sealing surface. Installed the new paper gasket and applied RTV to the bottom of the flange. I'll snug up the bottom 2 bolts tomorrow.

To do list thus far:
-reinstall rear diff
-swap trans linkages
-swap trans axle cups
-tighten bottom RMS bolts
-install headers
-mock up motor in the bay
-change gear oil?
-install flywheel
-install clutch
-mate motor/trans
-install V8 power steering lines to rack
-general reassembly


Delete A.C.? Mine is empty and didn't work before. I guess having it later would be nice, but depends how much of a pain it's going to be to delete.


Yesterday I was able to get the clutch and flywheel installed. Took a while to find the right orientation of the flywheel before I was able to get the bolts in.

I stupidly ordered the 2.7T flywheel bolts and they were about double the required length. I had to go and order B7 RS4 flywheel bolts from the dealer. *TTV 4646 flywheel requires RS4 flywheel bolts
N90665001*


From there I tried to install the clutch. The dowels provided on the flywheel were much too large to install. I ended up drilling out the dowel holes to fit it. Notice the holes beside are much smaller


Just barely fits in


B7 RS4 clutch installed


Next was tackling the sheared off slave bolt. Ended up buying cobalt bits and spending 30mins drilling it out and trying to save the threads.


I am actually able to thread the slave bolt in. So that's a great relief from some of the horror stories I've heard with drilling out the bolt.

I tried to put the starter in at the end of the day and it wouldn't fit. I ended up pulling the one off my 2.7T and realised it was the same. I ended up figuring out that the wrecked gave me the wrong one. I took it back and they gave me the correct one. I went home and made sure it fit in the block first before having it rebuilt lol



I figured out the V8 downpipes don't fit. They need to be chopped as the portion that moves down comes into contact with the transmission bracket. They also spread way out so I'll have to chop them right after the precat and have a straight section of pipe welded to it to dump right to the floor. I won't be able to attach my catback because it has V-band flanges


An amendment to the V8 downpipes they do in fact fit. Idk what I was doing yesterday but it certainly wasn't putting it in right lol.

I don't need to notch the subframe because there's all this room here. Another plus for Allroad owners



It comes really close to the heat shield so a little bending should set that right but I'm not concerned right now.



Sitting in the bay. I was so happy to see it sitting there.


Picked up Redline MT-85 to fill the trans. Dumped the old fluid and filled with this. 5 bottles of performance GL-4.




Almost stripped the fill plug on the new trans, then changed the flanges over for the Allroad axles.


Next I punched the pre-cats and collected everything in a pitcher. Will be turning these in along with the main cats at a later date.


I moved on to installing the V8 positive battery cable, hooking up to the starter/alternator. I was missing one connection, so I ended up adding it with some spare stuff in the garage.




With this, I've read of RS6 owners deleting the Aux rad by looping it out, so I'll be attempting the same thing here since I went be running an Aux rad.


Last time I mounted the motor, I didn't mount the passenger side downpipe. Turns out it hangs much lower than the driver side does. Upon installation, the downpipe hits where the trans mount is on the subframe preventing me from installing the motor.



It needs to be bent about 30° to the right and brought upwards 3" to be about the same with the other side. I'm going to try installing this with the downpipe bolts loose and see if I can pry it up over the trans mount. If not, I'll have to find a place to make a single bend in the pipe to allow me to install.

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[In4cus]

***Update to now***

Today I got some more work done. Went and picked up a starter and 1.8T radiator.

Immediately took the starter and sent it off to get rebuilt locally.




I haven't looked over the harness yet, but I think I'll be missing some grounds. I'll have to transfer over the ground strap from the 2.7T for the positive battery terminal.

The radiator is totally mint as well. No bent fins anywhere, other than being a bit dusty.



Also ran to the parts store and got new bolts for the header to downpipe. I was able to reuse the retainers after knocking out the disgusting old bolts. Copper anti-sieze will be going on those.


The worst part of these v8 brackets is the 7/8" gap between the chassis rails and bracket. I went out and got 28 12mm spacers, and 4 thinner ones to use and take up space, however I only ended up using 4 12mm spacers on the outside (towards fenders), and 5 12mm spacers on the inside (towards the bay).


Got the rear diff out and the flanges swapped. That should be reinstalled relatively quickly, then on to making sure the motor fits in the bay before installing the clutch and flywheel.

I did the rear main seal before stopping for the night. Scraped off the old gasket, brake clean and sanded down the sealing surface. Installed the new paper gasket and applied RTV to the bottom of the flange. I'll snug up the bottom 2 bolts tomorrow.

To do list thus far:
-reinstall rear diff
-swap trans linkages
-swap trans axle cups
-tighten bottom RMS bolts
-install headers
-mock up motor in the bay
-change gear oil?
-install flywheel
-install clutch
-mate motor/trans
-install V8 power steering lines to rack
-general reassembly


Delete A.C.? Mine is empty and didn't work before. I guess having it later would be nice, but depends how much of a pain it's going to be to delete.


Yesterday I was able to get the clutch and flywheel installed. Took a while to find the right orientation of the flywheel before I was able to get the bolts in.

I stupidly ordered the 2.7T flywheel bolts and they were about double the required length. I had to go and order B7 RS4 flywheel bolts from the dealer. *TTV 4646 flywheel requires RS4 flywheel bolts
N90665001*


From there I tried to install the clutch. The dowels provided on the flywheel were much too large to install. I ended up drilling out the dowel holes to fit it. Notice the holes beside are much smaller


Just barely fits in


B7 RS4 clutch installed


Next was tackling the sheared off slave bolt. Ended up buying cobalt bits and spending 30mins drilling it out and trying to save the threads.


I am actually able to thread the slave bolt in. So that's a great relief from some of the horror stories I've heard with drilling out the bolt.

I tried to put the starter in at the end of the day and it wouldn't fit. I ended up pulling the one off my 2.7T and realised it was the same. I ended up figuring out that the wrecked gave me the wrong one. I took it back and they gave me the correct one. I went home and made sure it fit in the block first before having it rebuilt lol



I figured out the V8 downpipes don't fit. They need to be chopped as the portion that moves down comes into contact with the transmission bracket. They also spread way out so I'll have to chop them right after the precat and have a straight section of pipe welded to it to dump right to the floor. I won't be able to attach my catback because it has V-band flanges


An amendment to the V8 downpipes they do in fact fit. Idk what I was doing yesterday but it certainly wasn't putting it in right lol.

I don't need to notch the subframe because there's all this room here. Another plus for Allroad owners



It comes really close to the heat shield so a little bending should set that right but I'm not concerned right now.



Sitting in the bay. I was so happy to see it sitting there.


Picked up Redline MT-85 to fill the trans. Dumped the old fluid and filled with this. 5 bottles of performance GL-4.




Almost stripped the fill plug on the new trans, then changed the flanges over for the Allroad axles.


Next I punched the pre-cats and collected everything in a pitcher. Will be turning these in along with the main cats at a later date.


I moved on to installing the V8 positive battery cable, hooking up to the starter/alternator. I was missing one connection, so I ended up adding it with some spare stuff in the garage.




With this, I've read of RS6 owners deleting the Aux rad by looping it out, so I'll be attempting the same thing here since I went be running an Aux rad.


Last time I mounted the motor, I didn't mount the passenger side downpipe. Turns out it hangs much lower than the driver side does. Upon installation, the downpipe hits where the trans mount is on the subframe preventing me from installing the motor.



It needs to be bent about 30° to the right and brought upwards 3" to be about the same with the other side. I'm going to try installing this with the downpipe bolts loose and see if I can pry it up over the trans mount. If not, I'll have to find a place to make a single bend in the pipe to allow me to install.

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I love it. You documenting this build is going to be sooooo helpful!! Your moving along at a good pace too.

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[Bordom]

I love it. You documenting this build is going to be sooooo helpful!! Your moving along at a good pace too.

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Most of it can be found here

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...php?p=12442534

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[m_haiser]

why must everyone quote FULL pages of photos?