Bordom's Allroad; Boat in the Street

[Bordom]

Awesome, I saw this on Kijiji too. Would be awesome to see it go to an enthusiast!

RS6 is definitely my next C5, oh the sound and torque of the V8's is glorious!

It's very clean since its a US Cali import; Fully loaded car

I haven't smiled that hard in a long time lol. RS6 has got an old VAST manual conversion kit on it.

Owner is a very nice dude, and he's working with me to try and purchase it off him. Hopefully in a couple weeks we should get the result.

Project 4.2 Allroad is currently post-poned until spring because it's getting cold lol.

I do have another V8 summer toy lined up if the RS6 falls through though.

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[KSEADUB]

Currently negotiating for an addition to the fleet.

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[Bordom]

Pressed up on the air suspension today and it lit up the Christmas tree. I later found out is my brake light switch since my lights don't turn on when I press the brake pedal. Looks like I gotta grab one tomorrow

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[Bordom]

I bought a brake switch but didn't install it because the car decided to start using the original brake switch for now lol.

In other news, I emailed TTV after noticing that they make flywheels that are 11mm shorter so as to not use the 11mm spacer required between the gearbox and engine.

Sent off my question about the cost for a 4.2 flywheel that's 11mm shorter and machined to accept the B7 RS4 clutch kit.

If they're able to make this, it would give me more room in front of the motor to work. Who knows, maybe I can retain the viscous fan

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[Bordom]

I took it upon myself to rebuild the compressor with a kit from BagPipingAndy.

Crawling under the car, you can see the fight I'm in for. All the bolts holding the cover on are rusted to shit.



The clips are even looking like trash


Was able to fight off the bolts with heat and deep creep, exposing the compressor.




Cover full of trash


I was able separate the compressor and saw that the inside of it was awfully dirty. I think the seals have long since passed on this allowing dirt and moisture to enter it.


Scoring on the cylinder wall seems to confirm it



New cylinder head and kit




While reinstalling the compressor, I forgot to connect the brown pressure line from valve block to compressor. When I turned the car on, I heard a hissing sound but thought nothing of it. I hit the up button and noticed my rear end sinking. I tried stalling the suspension by turning off the auto level, but it did nothing so I turned the car off.

Jacked it back up, connected the air line and attempted to fill the system but nothing happened. It would just run and then shut off after 60s and the suspension light would go from blinking to solid.





Called a friend and met him at his shop to use his VCDS. Scanned the controller and found 6 codes


Cleared it and they come back. Car is currently all aired out and I'm not driving it until I can get it fixed. I'm also tight on funds so I'm not looking to spend money on another compressor since I have that dual 444cc kit to install.

Help is much appreciated

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[Bordom]

Given my more recent adventures to the world of air, I started hunting down switches and gauges to use for the air suspension conversion.

I've learned thus far that the Allroad air lines can be upgraded to 4mm o.d. 2.5mm i.d. from the factory 1mm i.d. lines. There's fittings available that can provide a bolt in solution to upgrading the factory lines.

Visit this link to find the fittings. They're an m8x1 thread and take a 4mm (5/32)air line. If you want to go all the way, you can do a 6mm (same as air tank line) with the same thread.
http://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co...ing-2881-p.asp

I'm gonna use polyurethane air line rated to at least 250psi in a wide range of temps (-30°c - +60°c) which I found at Fastenal for $20/100ft.

The more pressing issue has been trying to locate union fittings T/Y that are brass and push to connect. Most of them are nylon, but I need something that'll handle the dual factory air tanks I'll have mounted which run 200psi line pressure. That being said, I'm more interested in grabbing one and using it as an extension of the factory tank. I'll run both factory air tanks off the single factory compressor just to ease the load on it from running all the time.

Anyways back to the topic at hand, the manual switch I'll be using is an Air Lift 26229 dual needle gauge with two manual paddle valves. Like so:


The panel will already come pre-plumbed for the existing setup on the guage. It'll have a total of 3 6mm/.25" T-fittings - two for each needle and one for the dump at the back. As pictured:




As for power, I'm thinking of tapping into the OEM compressor power lines spindle they'll be going unused. It would also significantly beat running new power lines all the way to the back, although also not the right way to do it.

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[Bordom]

$400 for stock flex pipe replacements? NO WAY! So I called up a friend and got some resonated XS-Power downpipes instead for $50 less. I'll be able to recoup most of my money afterwards, especially since no one wants hacked up factory downpipes.


Made a trip today to a junk yard to see if I could steal stuff from an already stripped 05 Allroad. What I saw blew my mind as I didn't think it would still be there after my first visit +6months ago. A factory NA hitch.

I didn't want to pass it up this time, so I fought the bolts with hand tools only, no heat or penetrating fluid to help. 15 mins of fwd and back motions until all 6 bolts were out holding in this gargantuan piece of German engineering.

After almost 2hrs, it was free


It's not pretty, but I think I'll leave it for now.


Everything on the hidden receiver is totally rust welded to itself. This thing must have been on that car for over a decade seeing as this Allroad was a factory 3rd seat special.


Wiring harness also looks to be in great shape, besides where I cut it off


I think I'll have it sand blasted and see how bad the rot is. If the receiver is trash, I'll bring it up to Pete at Fabless Manufacturing and get him to repair it for continued use. After that, hopefully painted and mounted on the car to tow stuff around with.

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[Bordom]

Photos of the downpipes because y'all like go fast bits. Overall, better than spending $400 on factory flex pipe replacements, and I can recoup most of the investment



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[Bordom]

I took the liberty of installing the hitch today. Took about 4hrs ish to install. Getting the bumper off is the hardest part by far.

Broke some stuff, scraped my knuckles, and got really angry, as usual. Got to about here before taking pictures.


Removing the passenger taillight revealed that there was a random loose bulb flying around the back. Replaced the brake light bulb too


These were pretty simple to remove. Pulling the bumper from here was also a giant PITA


Having gotten the hitch in, I found my issue. The screws on both my trailer wiring and hitch wiring were completely rusted away. They just disintegrated when I tried to turn them. They'll be drilled out after winter and replaced.


Digging around in random crevices I found 4-6 condoms with packs of lube lol. And one random Durex under the foam spare tire. Must have been the bang bus before haha


And almost finished


Can't wait to start using it.

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[G_Wagon]

Wtf?

[SteelyS6]

Another point awarded to the allroad as the "Bangbus"

[n8henn]

Bwahahaha!!! He said "bang bus" That's some funny shit!

Yes sir Steely, far more versatile than we even thought. Haha!

[bpark1210]

Does one bangbus on level 2 or level 3???

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[quattrosnrabbit]

Hatch open, one in one out, I guess you can pre-adjust the level based on the height of the person standing outside...

[Bordom]

Hahaha thanks guys! I'm sure I'll continue to find more of these packets strewn about the interior somewhere.

I went and picked up everything yesterday for my 4.2 swap. I also got to use the snazzy new hitch:


This was all unloaded last night but I got to taking some pictures today. The motor itself I am happy to report does not have anywhere near 360k on it as I originally thought. It was replaced back when the P.O. of the car picked it up from his P.O. back in Alberta a few years ago. It's safe to assume it has less than 200k, which makes it all the better to boost it later.

Timing belt look new and so does this one aluminum linkage arm.


This intake flap will be coming apart because it has begun to seize. A quick clean and lube should fix that right up


Overall, the motor does look to be in well maintained shape. I might just do the timing because I did order some new tensioner pads for the tensioners, but I'll pop the valve covers and see how it looks.

What came with the motor was a JHM flywheel modified for the B7 RS4 clutch and it has an unbelievable amount of life left in it. (More detailed pics later)




I also picked up a 6spd swap kit, just missing the driveshaft. Afterwards I'll have a fully functional Allroad 6spd swap kit if anyone is interested



Last but not least, a JHM 18z BBK and S6/S8 rear brakes. Rotors are minty and so are the pads. They need a good clean and should be good to go.



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[Bordom]

This just in: New Sport Shifter!

A new revised design for the C5 after some complications from a few of the kits. Hoping this gets installed without a hitch!

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[hoganalley]

I took the liberty of installing the hitch today. Took about 4hrs ish to install. Getting the bumper off is the hardest part by far.

Broke some stuff, scraped my knuckles, and got really angry, as usual. Got to about here before taking pictures.


Removing the passenger taillight revealed that there was a random loose bulb flying around the back. Replaced the brake light bulb too


These were pretty simple to remove. Pulling the bumper from here was also a giant PITA


Having gotten the hitch in, I found my issue. The screws on both my trailer wiring and hitch wiring were completely rusted away. They just disintegrated when I tried to turn them. They'll be drilled out after winter and replaced.


Digging around in random crevices I found 4-6 condoms with packs of lube lol. And one random Durex under the foam spare tire. Must have been the bang bus before haha


And almost finished


Can't wait to start using it.

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I just thought of something...... Did you buy your hitch from a guy in Oakville?

I saw that on Kijiji and he told me it was tentatively sold when I contacted him.

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[Bordom]

I just thought of something...... Did you buy your hitch from a guy in Oakville?

I saw that on Kijiji and he told me it was tentatively sold when I contacted him.

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Nope, found it in a junk yard out by Oshawa


Also


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[Bordom]

Cleaned up the one sticking intake flap.

Used a flat head screw driver and slowly punched this thing off.


Removing the little spacer, you can see it's pretty dirty and corroded as well as unusually oily



Took some brake clean and cleaned up that piece as well as the inside. Scrapped off as much corrosion as possible with a flathead and more brake clean. I was confident that would fix the sticking flap.


Following reassembly, I tried to actuate it again but it didn't seem to do very much. I just looked the retaining bolt a bit and it seemed to help.

I'll have to replace the vacuum pods later on because they have become dry rotted but they're still serviceable for now

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[Bordom]

Decided since I got shafted from work to take a trip down to my local crappy tire, buy stuff I didn't need for Black Friday, then proceed to do my downpipes at noon with 4ish hrs of light left and my dad's collection of tools - also in fashionable style, shop is stuffed so I'm in a parking lot again lol

Didn't take many photos because I wanted to be able to get as far into the job as possible before it rained the next day, but I only made it 25% of the way haha.

Now for some pictures about 12.5% of the way. My work space next to pops' 89 GTA, which will be the daily next spring once the Allroad goes down for the v8 swap


First stage: Break the axle bolt and remove the wheel, struggle with inferior tools and find out some knob stripped on of the Allen heads for the axle heat shield, have your dad come outside to see you struggling and call you an idiot for not using a 12pt on a stripped Allen. Low and behold, that shit came out real quick. Removing the axle took some finesse. I.e. removing pinch bolt (slid out without much fight), remove the tie rod (pinch bolt here was a little worse),and make sure not to smash yourself in the face lol


I noticed my outer tie rod on this side had the spring clip slip down. That'll have to be replaced next spring. I'm thinking Meyle HD since I loved the set on my A4.


Moving onto the transmission bracket and mount, that took some careful engineering and was quickly out. Without a suitable second jack, we used the widow-maker out of the GTA. Hook it up to the impact and boy does she fly away.

With the mount removed, I took it apart to find the rubber wasnt destroyed like I thought it was. Anyone want real cheap mounts? Lol Once the trans bracket was out, we could easily remove the axle.

Stage 2: Turbo nuts that couldn't. Once I saw this, I was having nightmarish thoughts of breaking studs and having to pull the motor.


Tried immediately with a wrench and that didn't work, heated it up red hot and still no dice, shocked it with water (no pen fluid) and I was stumped. Then I hear "Use a candle." My facial expression to my dad was:


Sure enough, a few drops of candle wax over all the turbo nuts, coupled with not even cherry red heat produced some insane results. The nuts came right off and here I am getting schooled like a 5yr old lol

I moved to the top and started to move stuff. Unscrewed the coolant bottle and I was trying to sort out the 4 plugs beneath it when I broke the plastic coolant T. POS


Un-clipped and moved enough stuff to perform the same magic on the other 3 bolts and she's off.


Snipped a bunch of zip ties in preparation of pulling the downpipe and the heat shields together. 02 sensors will be coming out with them. Hopefully the A6's larger trans tunnel helps with that

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[Bordom]

Day 2: driver side downpipe is in and everything is mostly together. Few bolts to tighten up once the other side is finished.

Took a pic of the interior of the turbine housing and it looks like this car has been running much too lean. It looks very different to what my S4 housings looked like with more of a brown hue all around with the white sprinkling.


Up/down/side play was nice and stable at 1mm ish and no axial play. Driver turbo given a clean bill of health.

Tackling the passenger side tomorrow so hopefully it'll be in and out faster than the other side. Once done, I can reconnect everything on the engine, top up the coolant (praying I don't have to bleed it because of the broken T), and hit an exhaust shop to chop the secondary cats and have the mid pipes sleeved on.

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[Bordom]

Day 3 has gone significantly faster than before.

Tore apart the suspension again and found the forward control arm to have excessive play. I think that's the cause of the creaking I've been hearing on that side.

Anyways, I went to remove the passenger side trans mount and had difficulty trying to get the last bolt as it's pretty much right next to the downpipe. Then I realised I didn't need to remove it after seeing I was able to access all the turbo nuts haha.

Moved to the top of the motor and moved stuff on the passenger side. Tried to remove the heat shield but both bolts stripped out. Instead of trying to smash it out (15 mins) I went and got tin snips and cut off the portion that wasn't needed.

Disaster avoided, so I was able to slide the downpipe out easily.

This turbo also checked out and it looks much better than the other, though I'm concerned about the darker turbine. Is that an indication of the turbine seal giving up?


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[jbain2]

I love that you wrench in a parking lot. How does the candle wax trick work? I don't have a garage or driveway and am often doing this kind of thing in the street. My neighbors think I am crazy. Nice work. Keep it up.

[Bordom]

I love that you wrench in a parking lot. How does the candle wax trick work? I don't have a garage or driveway and am often doing this kind of thing in the street. My neighbors think I am crazy. Nice work. Keep it up.

Haha thanks for the kind words!

No idea how it works, but it does. Few drops of wax on the bolt/nut, then you heat it up and the wax gets into all the rusted out places and "lubricates" them. Same trick if you use wax on a zipper to help the movement.

I got the car done on Monday and had the mid pipes finished by an exhaust shop. $200 for both sides and I was pissed that it was so much especially since I provided 99% the pipe and they literally made 3 welds. Never going back there again.

But the car works now, no more blown flex pipes and I got a feel for how this thing is supposed to sound. Video coming in a future update.

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[R490]

Good stuff! That shifter looks great.

[patbastard]

Haha thanks for the kind words!

But the car works now, no more blown flex pipes and I got a feel for how this thing is supposed to sound. Video coming in a future update.

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No broken flex pipes? That must be nice. Mine are on my list of things to fix, but low on the priority.



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[Bordom]

No broken flex pipes? That must be nice. Mine are on my list of things to fix, but low on the priority.



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Yeah. Had to do then because the one side was ready to fall out and had grinded itself smooth lol

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[Bordom]

Some affliction has taken my Allroad's transmission. I've been experiencing a creaking issue and vibration upon acceleration from a stop, suspension movement up and down, and articulation of the steering wheel causing creaking.

I thought it was my axle bolts backing out from doing my downpipes in November. Jacked up the car and found that I could shake the shaft in all directions but none of the bolts looked loose.

I then saw the flange moving and decided to disconnect the axle. I've included a 5 second video in this post that shows the amount of play in the flange, AFTER I tightened it some more.
https://youtu.be/xzlQ-528USM

It's been getting worse since I first noticed it, and I'm concerned about the axial play in the flange. Is it the bearings on this side giving out, or something that has come loose?

Just gotta limp it a while longer

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[Bordom]

I got a notice in the mail a couple weeks ago saying my stickers had to be renewed and that I didn't need an e-test; sick. I went in to get my plates done yesterday but I was told my car needed an e-test. After showing them the paper they claimed the paper can say what it wants but the computer has the last say.

So I spent today installing my good used SAI pump rolling around in the back of my hatch for the last 7 months.


Looks easy enough to get out once the y-pipe is removed. Those two 5mm Allen bolts and an 10mm on the side. Nestled below a while bunch of stuff


With the new pump installed in place but not bolted in.


It's important to remove the plastic pipe coming from the combi valve on the right side as you won't be able to maneuver the pump out any other way.

I then installed the o2 extensions which were just short straight extensions. I eventually got an intermittent low voltage code so I think I have to tighten it up a little more before going for my e-test and renewing my plates on my birthday.

Sunday I'll also be picking up some longtubes for the S6 motor. I'll be sure to post that up for yall and update the other thread.

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[Frankie_6MT]

Why not just delete the SAI? I mean, the whole point to the system is to warm up those cats upon startup. It's ugly, robust and just dumb to have with no cats. $40 to delete then code it out yourself it's easy

Anyway, sweet AR man I'm always jelly of the allroads they seem more comfy and better feel to it. I'll be following, keep up the good work!

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[Bordom]

Why not just delete the SAI? I mean, the whole point to the system is to warm up those cats upon startup. It's ugly, robust and just dumb to have with no cats. $40 to delete then code it out yourself it's easy

Anyway, sweet AR man I'm always jelly of the allroads they seem more comfy and better feel to it. I'll be following, keep up the good work!

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I would have but my province has found a way of detecting when things have been coded out. A well known tuner here has been deleting things for years and recently his jobs have come back because emissions centers have been able to circumvent the coding and flag people who have SAI, rear o2, etc deleted. I didn't wanna play that game so I did it.

I ended up passing the test with my cel coming on soon after lol.

Also, bought the longtubes for my birthday a few days ago. Haven't been home so they're sitting in my back seat currently.


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[jbain2]

I would have but my province has found a way of detecting when things have been coded out. A well known tuner here has been deleting things for years and recently his jobs have come back because emissions centers have been able to circumvent the coding and flag people who have SAI, rear o2, etc deleted. I didn't wanna play that game so I did it.

I ended up passing the test with my cel coming on soon after lol.

Also, bought the longtubes for my birthday a few days ago. Haven't been home so they're sitting in my back seat currently.


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Where did you get the headers from?


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[Bordom]

Where did you get the headers from?


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A guy out 1.5hrs drive from me. They're SSAC longtubes and never been used. The guy is an SSAC dealer, and ive known hin fir a while so I don't mind

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[jbain2]

A guy out 1.5hrs drive from me. They're SSAC longtubes and never been used. The guy is an SSAC dealer, and ive known hin fir a while so I don't mind

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If they are such ball busters where you are about emmisions, how are you going to go catless?

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[Bordom]

If they are such ball busters where you are about emulsions, how are you going to go catless?

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I'm already catless. Some O2 extensions solved that problem. The only saving grace is that there isn't emissions inspections here and techs generally don't know what to look for anyways

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[SteelyS6]

Very curious about those long tube headers, would like to buy a set for my S6 engine. Apparently oil filter relocation is neccesary.

[In4cus]

THANK YOUR WONDERFUL DAD FOR THAT SAGE ADVICE!!! I know this post is old and you havs probably moved on to something else, but, I needed this post!! WHEW!

[Bordom]

Very curious about those long tube headers, would like to buy a set for my S6 engine. Apparently oil filter relocation is neccesary.

If it's going to contact the oil filter I'll switch to the 2.7T oil cooler OR get a smaller filter. Shouldn't be a big deal

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[Bordom]

THANK YOUR WONDERFUL DAD FOR THAT SAGE ADVICE!!! I know this post is old and you havs probably moved on to something else, but, I needed this post!! WHEW!

Lol which advice?

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[In4cus]

Sorry. I phone messed up placing the reply. About the candle wax. I wanted to pull my turbos, bit, after looking at those bolts....I said nah. I live in North East Pennsylvania, so, I feel your pain about the bloody rust!

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