Bordom's Allroad; Boat in the Street

[ShelbyM3]

Keep pushing it. I love it.

Sorry it’s the bearing and not the carrier bushing. Bummer.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!

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[Bordom]

Picked up the driveshaft today from the importer. This thing cost $1200 all said and done to bring to Canada. That's better than the Rock auto alternative of $2.9k lmao

Unboxing


Tried to get a shot of the part number to see if it was an 034 boot on the CV. Otherwise, looks like I'll need to grease these CV before going on


Carrier bearing looks very similar. The U-Joint in the back is remarkably larger than stock


Yay serviceability!


Much more room to replace the center bearing when time


Looks like the shaft was balanced. I sure hope it is since this side of the shaft has 45g of weight added.


The longer side by the diff has this weight precariously attached.



To be safe, I measured the center bearing on this unit and it came in at just under 62mm. When the old shaft comes off, I'll compare it to this to see if I can use the JXB unit on it.


I've also learned I'm going on my next career course at the end of January, and I have to work every weekend till the end of the month. Not too pleased about that because Bits has been a needy girl lately.

If this still isn't right for whatever reason when the shaft is installed, I'll have no choice but to go and buy something else. Plenty of TDI Q7 and Touareg vehicles have been coming up for sale lately.

Ideally, a Mk4 ALH would be best, but decent ones are selling for $5k. Couple that with my shortened availability, it's going to be a wild couple weeks

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[ShelbyM3]

That weight hanging off like that is very disappointing for that price point. I’m sorry man.

That kind of sounds exciting! I hope your next endeavor is positive and worthwhile, because working weekends blows. Haha. I worked Sunday-Thursday for years and I hated it.


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[idotavant]

So the jbx carrier is not the bearing too? Just a bushing around it? Loss of bearing necessitates an entire new drive shaft assembly? Sorry if I missed all that


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[Bordom]

So the jbx carrier is not the bearing too? Just a bushing around it? Loss of bearing necessitates an entire new drive shaft assembly? Sorry if I missed all that


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1. The JXB carrier is only the shell that encompasses the bearing in a soft OR hard bushing. It provides more stability to the shaft

2. It's not just the bearing, it's also the U-Joint (which is unserviceable). I was not going to throw parts at it only to end up with a bad U-Joint in the end.

3. Time is of the essence for me right now, and the AR is my only transportation in the winter. It needs to get done ASAP.

I've been looking around and have seen a few nice Q7. One popped up for $3k which looks ok. I'll have to book an appt to go see it in person

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[idotavant]

1. The JXB carrier is only the shell that encompasses the bearing in a soft OR hard bushing. It provides more stability to the shaft

2. It's not just the bearing, it's also the U-Joint (which is unserviceable). I was not going to throw parts at it only to end up with a bad U-Joint in the end.

3. Time is of the essence for me right now, and the AR is my only transportation in the winter. It needs to get done ASAP.

I've been looking around and have seen a few nice Q7. One popped up for $3k which looks ok. I'll have to book an appt to go see it in person

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Thanks

I hear ya. Would love a Touareg. Sickos


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[Bordom]

I got the new shaft installed today. All said and done, the job took about 5hrs start to finish.




I installed new driveshaft bolts from FCP, and got the 034 carrier bearing as a spare, in case the bearing on this unit didn't work with the JXB. I'm happy to report that there wasn't any significant banging or vibration with the shaft. I do have mild resonance 75-90kph, but I think that's more to do with the positioning of the JXB support. I'm going to fiddle with it some more to see if I can get that to go away.

I'm pretty happy about the shaft, all things considered. I'm going to do 200miles tomorrow along with a top speed run somewhere in there and see how it fairs. I'd recommend this off of the first 55miles of driving.

The old shaft is going to get torn down and disassembled. I'll press out the bearing in the old carrier. Here is the bearing used in the center support. 6006-RZ. 30mm ID, 55mm OD, 13mm wide.


It's important to note that the bearing sits in a shell that then gets vulcanized rubber on the exterior. Measurements for the various bearing shells:
1. OEM - 62mm
2. Wholesale Import Parts Durashaft - 61mm
3. 034 center support - 62mm

I'm confident you could find a bearing that's the appropriate size, maybe a little thicker. 30mm ID, 62mm OD, and 13-20mm wide to use all of the JXB clamping surface. A physically larger bearing should also reduce load characteristics and make the bearing last longer.

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[Bordom]

A little driveshaft update:

The 75-90kph shudder I felt ultimately morphed into a hard vibration from 50-70kph. I've attempted adjusting the carrier position a couple weeks ago, and that's where I noticed its cockeyed installation on the bearing itself.


Closer view here, you can see the bushing isn't sitting even on the bearing, and the carrier bearing itself is crushing the bushings inward (this is probably when I went and torqued the two bolts underneath that holds the clamshell together)


On my check ride to see if reinstalling and adjusting the carrier position did anything, I started to notice a really hot burning sensation on my back left side. This was odd, mainly because I was wearing several layers to protect against the cold. I ran my hand on the seat where it was hot and almost burned myself, so I turned the heater off. I found this gem here


I knew I needed a new seat, and the time has finally come. There's a couple sets on eBay (Recaro seats in the same colour, also out of a 2003 Allroad), and a set of black Alcantara sport seats. In talks right now to try and get them shipped over to Canada.

Back to the driveshaft, I actually moved the vibration zone from 50-70kph, to 55-75kph lol. I'm running out of options with this thing, and the only thing left is to try the factory center bearing setup instead of the JXB unit I have. After that, it's tear it out and have it balanced. Otherwise, I'll modify the factory shaft since I found a driveshaft place about 90 mins from me that can do it.

After that, I was getting tired of terrible wiping patterns, so I swapped my Aero wipers for Vaico units as the springs were getting old. The Vaico wiper is slightly shorter than the factory one, but can still take a 15" wiper blade


Installed


Hopefully I have better news next update

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[ShelbyM3]

A little driveshaft update:

The 75-90kph shudder I felt ultimately morphed into a hard vibration from 50-70kph. I've attempted adjusting the carrier position a couple weeks ago, and that's where I noticed its cockeyed installation on the bearing itself.


Closer view here, you can see the bushing isn't sitting even on the bearing, and the carrier bearing itself is crushing the bushings inward (this is probably when I went and torqued the two bolts underneath that holds the clamshell together)


On my check ride to see if reinstalling and adjusting the carrier position did anything, I started to notice a really hot burning sensation on my back left side. This was odd, mainly because I was wearing several layers to protect against the cold. I ran my hand on the seat where it was hot and almost burned myself, so I turned the heater off. I found this gem here


I knew I needed a new seat, and the time has finally come. There's a couple sets on eBay (Recaro seats in the same colour, also out of a 2003 Allroad), and a set of black Alcantara sport seats. In talks right now to try and get them shipped over to Canada.

Back to the driveshaft, I actually moved the vibration zone from 50-70kph, to 55-75kph lol. I'm running out of options with this thing, and the only thing left is to try the factory center bearing setup instead of the JXB unit I have. After that, it's tear it out and have it balanced. Otherwise, I'll modify the factory shaft since I found a driveshaft place about 90 mins from me that can do it.

After that, I was getting tired of terrible wiping patterns, so I swapped my Aero wipers for Vaico units as the springs were getting old. The Vaico wiper is slightly shorter than the factory one, but can still take a 15" wiper blade


Installed


Hopefully I have better news next update

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Do you think the JXB has a design flaw or was it installed improperly the first time? Adjusting the bushing didn’t help?

Sorry about your seat. My V8 does the same. I only take it up to 4 as to not spontaneously combust!


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[Bordom]

Do you think the JXB has a design flaw or was it installed improperly the first time? Adjusting the bushing didn’t help?

Sorry about your seat. My V8 does the same. I only take it up to 4 as to not spontaneously combust!


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I'll have to reach out to Jay to confirm. He did mention a year or two ago that he had to re-design the Allroad unit to to a misalignment that is present in the stock drivetrain setup. As far as I can tell, I have the updated version.

Worst case scenario is I disassemble the center and use the 034 center support to rule it out something with the carrier. This will get tackled when I have a long weekend (Early April)

I'm currently getting quoted on the shipping for the Recaro Allroad seats. Hopefully it's not a terrible expense.

[ShelbyM3]

I'll have to reach out to Jay to confirm. He did mention a year or two ago that he had to re-design the Allroad unit to to a misalignment that is present in the stock drivetrain setup. As far as I can tell, I have the updated version.

Worst case scenario is I disassemble the center and use the 034 center support to rule it out something with the carrier. This will get tackled when I have a long weekend (Early April)

I'm currently getting quoted on the shipping for the Recaro Allroad seats. Hopefully it's not a terrible expense.

He did. I have both sets of bushes.

I thought I’d read the 034 bearing isn’t a perfect fit for us Allroad guys. I may be mistaken.

Damn, I’m jealous. Those are sweet!!!!!!


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[Bordom]

I got the shipping quote back from the vendor in Germany. All in Cost (minus duty+taxes) is going to ring up to $5k Cad MINIMUM.

So, I don't think I'm going to go that route lol. That ends up being my entire tax return, and I'm not prepared to spend that much on seats (as good as they look).

I'd rather tour around Europe and find a TDI C5 to import back to Canada so I can pick it apart here. Shipping would be just a little more expensive for a whole car.

[LZ9ROAD]

I got the shipping quote back from the vendor in Germany. All in Cost (minus duty+taxes) is going to ring up to $5k Cad MINIMUM.

So, I don't think I'm going to go that route lol. That ends up being my entire tax return, and I'm not prepared to spend that much on seats (as good as they look).

I'd rather tour around Europe and find a TDI C5 to import back to Canada so I can pick it apart here. Shipping would be just a little more expensive for a whole car.

I wish the D2 S8 Recaros fit the front properly, that would solve quite a bit of issues on the shipping expense as you'd only need to import the rears, but, very large seats, don't see them fitting without interference.

For 5k you might as well just buy two Front Recaro Wingbacks and call it a day honestly LOL

[smil3y]

i had a seat burnthrough like that in my 2002 AR, in 2020 - which was the first year I owned it. ruined the coat I had on. I complained to AIA and they sent me a check for $150 to buy a new coat LOL

[Bordom]

Did much running around today and picked up a steal of a transmission. B7 3.2 02X GYY transmission with 143k km/90k miles for $250 CAD. Someone at the yard inputted the price wrong, because there other transmissions with 50% more miles for $1k more than I paid.




They took the shift linkage and everything off, so I wasn't able to run through the gears, but the input shaft turned well. It sounds a little clunky, but that's also because it doesn't have any oil in it.


According to Blairdude, I should be able to use all of the hydraulics I already have. Otherwise, I'll cut out a piece of stainless steel and modify the billet slave I already have.


I got these Q5 345mm 4 pot calipers from Heath. I'm going to clean these up, and paint them, then they'll be going on the Allroad with new brake hard lines(chassis side) and rubber hoses.




B7 S4 front rotors will make this a bolt in solution. The 18z setup I got will bee going up for sale, along with the CLA45 AMG rotors.

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[Bordom]

Here's the details between the GYY 02X and EDU 01E:

GYY 02X
Final Drive: 4.375
1st: 3.3
2nd: 1.85
3rd: 1.286
4th: .939
5th: .75
6th: .641

Speed at 2200 RPM (My current speed at 100KPH, and AR tire size): 62.36MPH


EDU 01E
Final Drive: 4.111
1st: 3.5
2nd: 1.89
3rd: 1.32
4th: 1.03
5th: .81
6th: .68
Speed at 2200 RPM (My current speed at 100KPH, and AR tire size): 62.56MPH

My economy should be the same between the two transmissions for hwy speeds. Otherwise, the only real impact would be city driving, which is already bad lol)

Should I have this box taken apart and checked since it's out? Maybe have it rebuilt?

I'm planning on using an entire JHM setup for this, hopefully it works out.



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[ShelbyM3]

Did much running around today and picked up a steal of a transmission. B7 3.2 02X GYY transmission with 143k km/90k miles for $250 CAD. Someone at the yard inputted the price wrong, because there other transmissions with 50% more miles for $1k more than I paid.




They took the shift linkage and everything off, so I wasn't able to run through the gears, but the input shaft turned well. It sounds a little clunky, but that's also because it doesn't have any oil in it.


According to Blairdude, I should be able to use all of the hydraulics I already have. Otherwise, I'll cut out a piece of stainless steel and modify the billet slave I already have.


I got these Q5 345mm 4 pot calipers from Heath. I'm going to clean these up, and paint them, then they'll be going on the Allroad with new brake hard lines(chassis side) and rubber hoses.




B7 S4 front rotors will make this a bolt in solution. The 18z setup I got will bee going up for sale, along with the CLA45 AMG rotors.

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Nice score! I’ve debated an O2X for my V8, also.

Do you need linkage? I have one saved for sale on eBay.


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[Audibot]

Do you need linkage? I have one saved for sale on eBay.

This just cropped up...
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...l-Transmission

[Bordom]

I ended up doing this over Easter. I've had these seats now for almost a month since I nearly burned myself and the car. I've wanted to clean these and condition them prior to installing into the car.

Here's some before photos. These are as received:
Back bench split seats



The actual bench, which is wildly more comfortable than the Allroad bench


The dried out leather portions on the front seats. These clearly got baked in some extreme sun, or something hot was spilled on them


The dried pleats have really stretched the leather out. It's like cardboard!


I started off the whole cleaning procedure with a microfiber cloth, and some Dawn dish soap. If it's good enough for the ducks, it should be good enough for my cow hide! Unfortunately, no pictures here. I can attest that the water in my bucket was less than clean after thoroughly scrubbing every inch of these; including within the pleats.

Second step was to use Chemical Guys leather cleaner. I used a separate microfiber cloth for this. (It also came out not great)

Thirdly, I used Chemical Guys Leather Conditioner on an applicator pad. I made sure to spread it liberally, then let sit about 30 mins before doing another coat. Here's a picture of what the products were: please note, I didn't use these sample sizes lol


The back split seat


The back bench


The worst front seat


You'll notice the leather was much glossier. I left the last coat heavier in the super dry sections to hopefully stick some oil back into the leather. I may actually visit a Tack store and get some of the equestrian products they use to keep their leather in better shape. I'll be back home Friday night, so I'll update on Saturday weather or not these liberal application and letting it soak all week will do anything.

My next plan of attack for this once the seats are installed is to liberally apply the conditioner when it's going to be hot out. That'll force the leather to soften a little bit and hopefully take on the essential oils it's missing.

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[Bordom]

I forgot to add this important part!

I visited the local boneyard because they allegedly had two manual B7 A4. My main goals were:
1. Grab the shifter (C5 box is compatible, and funny enough the B7 uses the B5/C5 rubber boot off the box)
2. Grab the selector shaft w/ cross rod
3. Grab the stabilizer rod

This is the car in question. I had my eyes on a grey avant, but it turned out to be auto


With it being hit on the side there, it actually pushed the transmission (sitting in the driver seat) right and up on the tail shaft. That ended up binding the stabilizer rod and making it difficult to access.

The shifter portion was pulled in about 15 mins. I was able to snake out the selector and cross rod through the carnage that used to be the driver side frame rail and down through the bottom. Total time at the yard: 36 minutes

The stabilizer rod was trickier because of where it was jammed up. After exhausting my few options, I elected to drop the subframe to make access more manageable. Since it was all coming down, I'd snag the transmission crossmember as well. Removing the exhaust was easy (it rotted off at the center resonator, and the flex pipe rotted at the mount off the transmission lol).

This is where the job took an even longer turn. My Craftsman ratchet decided to bite the dust and not continue ratcheting. I was able to work it so that it jammed itself into either direction and I was able to tighten/loosen at a leisurely rate.

The back subframe bolts came out without issue. I ran into problems and realized how sketchy what I was doing was. I came to the last subframe bolt and secondary support bolts on the passenger side (driver side mount was destroyed so I didn't have to worry about taking any of that off). If I kept loosening the bolts, eventually the threads would give out and the whole thing would come crashing down on my face. To save myself, I found some random wheels around, stacked them underneath the engine/trans and continued my OSHA approved work. It finally came down with a light slump onto the wheels.

From here I attempted to get the stabilizer rod out, but the bolt inside basically disintegrated and stripped. Disheartening, but removing the trans crossmember made up for it. That was a lot of text, so here's a picture of the haul


I went home later to find a transmission mount and bracket for the crossmember. Turns out, that whole piece is very expensive and can only be bought from the dealer as a whole package (bracket attaches to the transmission, the mount attaches to the crossmember, then crossmember to the chassis). I'll be ponying up $350ish for that assembly from the dealer if my current trans doesn't have it.

While researching the part numbers and everything, I accidently came across a whole shifter assembly with linkage from France. It was way cheaper than buying from anyone around here, and should be here early to mid May


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[ShelbyM3]

You’ve been up to some good stuff here! Those seats will be very nice in there. I low key kinda hate the Allroad seats. I feel like I’m sliding forward. I’ve always wanted new seats, but could never justify the prices in my head. Sooo, I bought an S8.

Glad you didn’t die. Sounds super sketch, but good thing for steelies! Why exactly are you going with B7 shifter stuff over C5? Because O2X? France, eh?

Hey, how’s the replacement propshaft been working out for you?


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[Bordom]

You’ve been up to some good stuff here! Those seats will be very nice in there. I low key kinda hate the Allroad seats. I feel like I’m sliding forward. I’ve always wanted new seats, but could never justify the prices in my head. Sooo, I bought an S8.

Glad you didn’t die. Sounds super sketch, but good thing for steelies! Why exactly are you going with B7 shifter stuff over C5? Because O2X? France, eh?

Hey, how’s the replacement propshaft been working out for you?


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The S8 seats have to be exceedingly comfortable, while holding you in place. I want an S8 to DD, but the AR is much more versatile for winter situations.

The B7 and B5/C5 shifters are quite similar. The main difference is the B7 unit has an offset shaft vs the straight shaft in the earlier cars. I could test fit the shifter I have for my 01E on the 02X once it's in the car and see how it functions. I'll likely go stick with the B7 unit since that's what Blairdude runs in his AR.

The replacement shaft has been a problem for me since I installed it. I regret cutting off the center support and installing the JXB unit before verifying it's good. I have a pretty harsh vibration from 50-70kph (30-45mph) and there's a slight resonance from there to 140kph (87mph). It's weird because it's smooth above that.

My thinking is that the shaft is actually unbalanced. Apparently if the shaft vibrates at the half critical speed (usually about 2000-2500rpm), then it means it's unbalanced. On the website, it states the shafts are balanced to 3500rpm. I believe it was balanced at that RPM instead of the half speed that's commonly supposed to be done before final balancing.

I haven't found a singular shop around me that's willing to balance a shaft with CV joints, due to them being so uncommon. One company said they'd do it, but then told me I'd have to pay for them to make the tooling needed to balance it. $$$

My recommendation for anyone purchasing that shaft is to take it to your local drive line place and check these things:
1. Shaft runout. Which should be below .005" with everything straight.
2. Shaft balance, and rebalance if needed.

I think I'm going to find a shop locally that'll sell me the Dorman Auto shaft. That way I'll be able to re-install with the factory hardware and determine if it's my alignment of the shaft or not.

I figured out that it would have been about what I paid to import the driveshaft I did to get a Dorman locally. Dorman also uses straps instead of press fit U-joints, so it's even easier to service and separate the two halves if required. Reviews on Dorman aren't the greatest, but if it works, it works until I can get my hands on an Auto shaft to rebuild myself.

I have the U-Joint part numbers if anyone wants me to post it here/another thread.



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