The definitive stereo and subwoofer upgrade thread

[Drocfrosh]

Thanks. I found that the rears and trunk are powered by a separate amp. When I turn the music up a little I can feel the subs moving to the music. Because there’s some signal coming through and all 3 are out I’m suspect of my amp in the rear driver side but still have more troubleshooting.

So I went cruising and turned up volume and bass. Am able to get some sound through my sub but rears and deck still aren’t working. I’ve tried toggling rear speakers on and off through HU but only tweeters when I fade. Anyone know how to troubleshoot the rear amp?

[davmol]

I couldn't say for sure, but my guess would be inside the door to minimize the number of wires passing through the interior of the car to the door panel. Chances are the split occurs in the wiring harness in the door. You'll probably have to peel back the outer covering on the wiring harness to trace the wires back to the point where they split.

I think I found it and it looks ideal for adding crossovers. I removed the footwell trim panel on passenger side (UK rhd car) and there is a bracket with lots of wiring plugs.

Edited this post as I earlier said the right and left tweeter channels came from same left side plug up into the dash but they don't. I ran continuity test to each tweeter and found that the red/yellow cable on the left side was not actually going to the right tweeter (which is also a red/yellow cable of similar guage). Multimeter to the rescue on that one :-)

So in fact there is a block like this one on each side of the car under the footwell side panels. So the amp wire runs down each side then splits in these brown plugs to become tweeter and door output (tweeters have smaller guage wire from that point).

In the end it was too much of a hassle to install the focal passive crossovers here, so I ran new cable from each tweeter back to the amp in the boot.

So in the end I'm using stock cable for the doors and new cable for the tweeter. Centre channel now disconnected, stock sub (Avant) retained for now and a micro amp added to beef up the output of the 4 channels. Sounds amazing, all working well and I'll post a few pics once I've tidied up. Total cost was about £300 and took 2 weekend days for me to install.

[summitday]

I have a 2015 Allroad, Premium Plus A-4 B8. Love the car, but could not find one with the color and mileage I wanted that also had the B&O sound system. So, went with the P+ with the Audi Audio system and the Nav system. Figured I could upgrade the sound system later – which, it turns out, is much more complicated and expensive than I expected. I was disappointed with the stock subwoofer as so many owners have been, but was not willing to discard my spare tire (which I think is crazy) or a single square inch of storage space for amps and a subwoofer box. I was not even willing to give up the storage space on the passenger rear quarter area with the 12v power source. The Premium Plus package did leave some space above the system amplifier on the driver side (left hand drive) back quarter panel. This space was unused and unusable, so I started experimenting with various foam core models and designed a small subwoofer box and cradle to hold a power amp for it underneath. The pictures below show the result. The sub is an Alpine W8D2 8” subwoofer that can handle 300w at 2 ohms. I paired that with the excellent, and very compact Audio Control ACM 1.300 mono block amp. The result presented a staggering difference in bass depth and overall audio quality. I spent $279 for the amp, around $125 for the sub, plus another $50 for various parts and tools. I made the sub box out of ½ inch MDF. This admittedly took a bit of patience to build from scratch, but it has really been worth it. I paired this upgrade with the excellent Dayton Audio dash tweeter and center speaker replacement that are still available from member links discussed on this website and others. Together, these upgrades utterly transformed the audio experience in my A-4 Allroad. For a little over $500 I have a sound system that I believe is better than any Audi I have yet listened to – including the premium B&O. If you have the time and patience and are just a little bit handy, it is really not hard. And the best part is that you don’t give up any space! The original panel covers the sub, but does not affect the audio quality whatsoever and everything looks totally stock and stealth! Note: I did have to cut part of the ABS rack above the stock amp, but this was really easy. The ACM-1.300 has speaker inputs, so I just redirected the sub speaker wires from under the spare back up to the sub amp. Didn’t have to touch anything else and is easy to remove if the car was sold, or traded in. Two threaded rods anchor the box against frame struts. This may sound complicated, but it’s quite simple and intuitive. Highly recommended.

[Malv1]

The original panel covers the sub, but does not affect the audio quality whatsoever and everything looks This may sound complicated, but it’s quite simple and intuitive. Highly recommended.

Does the side cover interfere with the sub at all? Would mind sharing the specs of your enclosure? Both design and airspace if you are willing. Thanks!


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[summitday]

Hi, would be happy to share, but it really requires a bit of experimentation, depending on the setup of your vehicle. I have attached a photo of driver rear quarter panel pocket (if that's what you call it) prior to my sub install. I drilled one hole in the metal frame brace right next to the grounding bolt. I later used this to attach a threaded rod to anchor the box. I also used a second threaded rod attached to a factory hole in a similar frame brace on the opposite side of the space. In my final photo you can see the two wing nuts that tighten up against the sub box. The first think I made was a cradle for the ACM Amp using 1/4" plywood. I wedged the amp up in the back so the amp controls would be easy to adjust once the sub box was installed. The Amp cradle is separate from the sub box. To fit it in the space to leave the maximum room for the largest possible subwoofer, I cut off the plastic/ABS "wings" at the front of the factory amplifier brace, then used the rear "wings" to bold the new amp cradle. I then measured and experimented with foam core to make a model box with the space left over. That led to an 8" subwoofer. I used 1/2 MDF for the box, cut some pretty strange angles on a table saw, then glued and screwed it altogether. I did make mistakes and had to partially take the box apart to make adjustments. Just be careful with the depth of the sub or use a shallow sub. I almost didn't have enough depth for my Alpine sub. As far as the cover goes, I have experimented with and without the cover installed and I can hear very little difference. The cover is very thin and the low frequencies are not really inhibited by it. Also, there are no rattles that have been introduced with this installation - which I was concerned about. Let me know the specs you would like and I will measure accordingly.

[summitday]

In terms of the airspace, it's pretty tight - only about .25 sq ft. Added polyfill to help. Bass sounds good. Nice and tight, not rumbly.

- - - Updated - - -

Cubic feet that is...

[Yukoncole]

New Options for the Rear Deck Lid !!!

There once was a Pioneer option which is long gone, and now I finally found a few options after a lot of research.

1st and closest - Rockford Fosgate M2D4-10IB - https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/m2d4-10ib/

Note - Fits in the stock deck hole from the top, is an infinite baffle or open-air design, it switchable to 8 ohms, and it is very efficient at 90.3db, will need to remove the 1.8" lighting ring for a flusher top mount...Rockford said this is removable, mine will be here next week and I can confirm this personally.

2nd option I have found which is slightly less efficient at 86db but is only 150 $$ range is the below.

Polk Audio MM1042DVC - https://www.polkaudio.com/en/car-boat/mm1042dvc

Note - Fits in the stock deck hole, is an infinite baffle or open-air design, is dual voice coil at 4 ohms so can be wired to 8 ohms, is pretty efficient at 86db. I originally ordered the DB1042 model and can confirm it drops right in....have decided to order the latest and greatest model which is the "MM"1042DVC. This will also be here next week and I can confirm fitment.

[18tyweslow]

New Options for the Rear Deck Lid !!!

There once was a Pioneer option which is long gone, and now I finally found a few options after a lot of research.

1st and closest - Rockford Fosgate M2D4-10IB - https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/m2d4-10ib/

Note - Fits in the stock deck hole from the top, is an infinite baffle or open-air design, it switchable to 8 ohms, and it is very efficient at 90.3db, will need to remove the 1.8" lighting ring for a flusher top mount...Rockford said this is removable, mine will be here next week and I can confirm this personally.

2nd option I have found which is slightly less efficient at 86db but is only 150 $$ range is the below.

Polk Audio MM1042DVC - https://www.polkaudio.com/en/car-boat/mm1042dvc

Note - Fits in the stock deck hole, is an infinite baffle or open-air design, is dual voice coil at 4 ohms so can be wired to 8 ohms, is pretty efficient at 86db. I originally ordered the DB1042 model and can confirm it drops right in....have decided to order the latest and greatest model which is the "MM"1042DVC. This will also be here next week and I can confirm fitment.

This is just what I was looking for. I'm going to be tearing apart my rear deck in my S5 soon due to a rattle back there, and was hoping to upgrade the sub while I was in there. This is just what I needed!!

[Yukoncole]

This is just what I was looking for. I'm going to be tearing apart my rear deck in my S5 soon due to a rattle back there, and was hoping to upgrade the sub while I was in there. This is just what I needed!!

Get some DynoMat or Stinger RoadKill Matting, I did mine on the bottom and topside, two of the below were the perfect amount.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[coop3422]

I'm still so frustrated as unhappy with how my setup sounds. Professionally installed and tuned, and still sounds like garbage.

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[SliverJay]

I'm still so frustrated as unhappy with how my setup sounds. Professionally installed and tuned, and still sounds like garbage.

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Has anyone got a tried and true, tested setup for this car yet with the BO?

[Yukoncole]

Has anyone got a tried and true, tested setup for this car yet with the BO?

People have had noticeable success within this thread, that success was mostly with the above-mentioned and no longer available Pioneer. It just depends on what you are looking for honestly. I am simply looking for an increased bass response, nothing too crazy! The trick to having success with this is getting a Sub designed for an Open-Air space and one the is efficient enough to work with the stock B/O amp. While it costs a LOT more I am guessing the Rockford listed above will perform the best as it is more efficient, or had a high dB level of sensitivity. I will report back on both within a week or so, I plan to run both and test both against some identical tracks/music. I will say if the Polk is even close to the Rockford....that will be the one staying in my car.

[coop3422]

People have had noticeable success within this thread, that success was mostly with the above-mentioned and no longer available Pioneer. It just depends on what you are looking for honestly. I am simply looking for an increased bass response, nothing too crazy! The trick to having success with this is getting a Sub designed for an Open-Air space and one the is efficient enough to work with the stock B/O amp. While it costs a LOT more I am guessing the Rockford listed above will perform the best as it is more efficient, or had a high dB level of sensitivity. I will report back on both within a week or so, I plan to run both and test both against some identical tracks/music. I will say if the Polk is even close to the Rockford....that will be the one staying in my car.

The pain for me is I spent a decent amount to "do it right" from what I read. LC2i, Hertz amp and a nice sub in an enclosure. Had it professionally installed in my A6 and S4 and sounds like crap in both. Seems like the frequency is too high and gives you a headache. I've tuned systems in the past, but can't get it to hit clean/lower so you feel it vs hear it if that makes sense. It's pretty annoying TBH, because it's quality gear.

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[Yukoncole]

Update - The Rockford sub came yesterday and I was able to test fit it today. I am sad to say that Rockford with this silly LED light system they have with these subs have mad a stupid sized grill or ring around the speaker to incorporate it. The speaker could be made to work, no doubt but would require some slight modifications with creating a flat spot on the back side where it’s slightly hitting my sound matting and the bigger piece would be to remove, by cutting, two of the sections of the grill (see yellow lines on the pics) which interfere with the deck lid enough to slightly bow it and make putting the speaker cover back on impossible. If you were to remove the two sections though….it would be a perfect fit. I for now and going to wait and test the Polk Audio sub which arrives in a few days. IMG_9507.JPGIMG_9504.JPGIMG_9503.JPG


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[GTCRS3]

Update - The Rockford sub came yesterday and I was able to test fit it today. I am sad to say that Rockford with this silly LED light system they have with these subs have mad a stupid sized grill or ring around the speaker to incorporate it. The speaker could be made to work, no doubt but would require some slight modifications with creating a flat spot on the back side where it’s slightly hitting my sound matting and the bigger piece would be to remove, by cutting, two of the sections of the grill (see yellow lines on the pics) which interfere with the deck lid enough to slightly bow it and make putting the speaker cover back on impossible. If you were to remove the two sections though….it would be a perfect fit. I for now and going to wait and test the Polk Audio sub which arrives in a few days. IMG_9507.JPGIMG_9504.JPGIMG_9503.JPG


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You’re doing god’s work my brother. Continue with the enlightenment!


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[Fresh.S4]

If u have a fb and are on the Audi page...
https://m.facebook.com/story/graphql...&__tn__=%2As-R

https://m.facebook.com/story/graphql...IwMDMzMjQ3NzAx

In short. U need a ring that yes u must flatten one side. Even then, that magnet you have for that is massive! I love it but will rattle the hell out of the deck

[Yukoncole]

You’re doing god’s work my brother. Continue with the enlightenment!


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Haha, no problem! I may have found the crown jewel speaker today actually and it will be here on Wednesday. I don’t want to mention what it is yet as I could not find a hole requirement dimension on it but it’s 8 ohm and 92db plus pretty inexpensive - fingers crossed!!


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[Yukoncole]

If u have a fb and are on the Audi page...
https://m.facebook.com/story/graphql...&__tn__=%2As-R

https://m.facebook.com/story/graphql...IwMDMzMjQ3NzAx

In short. U need a ring that yes u must flatten one side. Even then, that magnet you have for that is massive! I love it but will rattle the hell out of the deck

Lots of Audi pages on FB, your links don’t work.


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[Fresh.S4]

go to the main audi b8 s4 page.
no speaker will ever work without a ring that is trimmed OR you trim the sub itself to fit the shape of the metal rear deck.

[Yukoncole]

go to the main audi b8 s4 page.
no speaker will ever work without a ring that is trimmed OR you trim the sub itself to fit the shape of the metal rear deck.

I disagree….here are pics to prove it, this is the Polk DB1042DVC. I never touched the sub between pics. I plan to add the pictured foam weather sealing to fill any imperfections from the sound matting.

If anyone is looking to get one of these, you may want to find abs order one…..seems inventory on them is shrinking! IMG_9547.JPGIMG_9546.JPGIMG_9545.JPGIMG_9544.jpgIMG_9548.jpg


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[Yukoncole]

Okay, all buttoned down and now just need a reminder on which factory wire is positive vs negative!!

I secured the speaker via 7 of the 8 holes, the forward (to the car) most one would of been weird due to the double layer of deck right there! The 3 original factory holes actually lined up perfectly, bonus, so simply drilled the other 4. Here is a pic of the final product. IMG_9550.JPG


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[SliverJay]

Looks amazing how is the sound?!

[Yukoncole]

Looks amazing how is the sound?!

I ran out of time, I will get it wired up tomorrow and the rear deck back on with those speakers hooked up and report back.


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[Fresh.S4]

how are you wiring the sub as far as ohms?
it should be positive from the sub goes to the blue/yellow and negative goes to the brown. if not just flip the polarity on either end.
that will work for a little while as i did the same. then i ended up buying a ring and trimming it so that i could firmly secure the sub to the rear deck. i also just used the 3x oem holes.

[Yukoncole]

how are you wiring the sub as far as ohms?
it should be positive from the sub goes to the blue/yellow and negative goes to the brown. if not just flip the polarity on either end.
that will work for a little while as i did the same. then i ended up buying a ring and trimming it so that i could firmly secure the sub to the rear deck. i also just used the 3x oem holes.

I used 7 of the 8 holes, it’s very firmly in place. It is a dual 4 ohm sub so wiring it at 8 ohm. The white/yellow is the + and brown/yellow or blue/yellow the -


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[Fresh.S4]

blue/yellow is -

[Yukoncole]

blue/yellow is -

Correct

[Yukoncole]

Okay, speaker is live and working. I put the rear deck lid back together with some moving towels cut up to fill all the dead space. I have not driven the car yet so no true jam sessions but it is an immediate and noticeable difference, especially at mid to higher volumes!

If you can snag one, they are less than 100 dollars and then another 60-80 for sound matting, some towels and your time.

Note - you are not going to have some ghetto sled sound system shacking body panels at low volumes doing this….it is simply a noticeable and rather cheap upgrade!


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[Yukoncole]

Okay, speaker is live and working. I put the rear deck lid back together with some moving towels cut up to fill all the dead space. I have not driven the car yet so no true jam sessions but it is an immediate and noticeable difference, especially at mid to higher volumes!

If you can snag one, they are less than 100 dollars and then another 60-80 for sound matting, some towels and your time.

Note - you are not going to have some ghetto sled sound system shacking body panels at low volumes doing this….it is simply a noticeable and rather cheap upgrade!


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Okay - I stand corrected, I put in some old school Magic Mile CD…..it will hot pretty low with the right track!!


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[coop3422]

Really wish I could here some of these systems. I have a big sub in its own big sealed box with tons of juice running to it, and it just sounds like crap.

Congrats on the install though!

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[Yukoncole]

Really wish I could here some of these systems. I have a big sub in its own big sealed box with tons of juice running to it, and it just sounds like crap.

Congrats on the install though!

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Anyone in Denver or willing to come here can check it out, like I said it’s not mind blowing but you can surely tell a difference. I have been listening to it at around “20” on volume and the bass increase is very noticeable.


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[techracer]

What LOC are you using? If it's an audio control turn the accubass off or down significantly.

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[Yukoncole]

What LOC are you using? If it's an audio control turn the accubass off or down significantly.

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Have not installed one, simply ripped and replaced the factory B&O Sub.

[techracer]

Have not installed one, simply ripped and replaced the factory B&O Sub.

Put in a LOC and Amp or it will never quite sound right.

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[Fresh.S4]

You don't need a LOC of you have a new enough amp with one built in

[techracer]

You don't need a LOC of you have a new enough amp with one built in

New enough? Most dont

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[coop3422]

Put in a LOC and Amp or it will never quite sound right.

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I have an LC2i, hertz mono and JL sub in a proper sized, sealed box and it sounds like garbage....

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[techracer]

I have an LC2i, hertz mono and JL sub in a proper sized, sealed box and it sounds like garbage....

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Turn off accubass

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[Fresh.S4]

I have an LC2i, hertz mono and JL sub in a proper sized, sealed box and it sounds like garbage....

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ive got a $60 mb quart sub mounted in the stock location using a walmart brand amp kit and rockville amp, lol.... it slaps!

[robb1887]

Who's everyone going through to get their Audison equipment? Therese a few references of a specific source. Can someone PM me the info?