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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring jetfixr07's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 23 2016
    AZ Member #
    372239
    My Garage
    1953 D35 V-Tail Doctor Killer!
    Location
    PNW

    After a ton of research and endless forum post reading, I recently performed this subwoofer upgrade. I went a slightly different route component-wise, but I'm pretty happy with the end result, which caters to my personal preferences with regard to the music I like to listen to. I tried to take as many pics of relevant/noteworthy items unique to this installation, and I'm happy to answer any questions! I'll try to avoid rambling, so here's the gear I used:

    -Pioneer GM-D7500M Mono amp
    -Planet Audio 2 Farad capacitor
    -Audio Control LC2i line output converter (with optional ACR1 remote level control)
    -Kicker 40CWD104 Comp D 10" sub

    Items of interest:

    -The 2 farad cap is admittedly huge overkill.....but at $28 I thought it might help to spare the car's electrical system when the stereo is cranked. Plus the digital voltage display is cool to look at:

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0537.jpg

    -I used the LC2i based on the overwhelmingly good reviews and features, especially the "GTO-Great Turn On" feature, which powers up the unit (and therefore the amp) when it senses an audio signal from the stereo. In theory this means I wouldn't need to find a +12vdc switched power wire since the unit should wake up the second the car is started. Well, it didn't work out that way. For whatever reason, that feature didn't work and I had to track down a switched +12vdc wire after all and run it to the LOC. I found some switched power at the fuse panel in the right (passenger) side of the trunk. Also, you might wonder why I used 1" spacers when mounting the LOC to the middle equipment rack in the left side of the trunk. It was done with cooling in mind. I wasn't sure how hot the LOC would get and I didn't want to melt the plastic tray:

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0552.jpg

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0553.jpg

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0109.jpg

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0579.jpg

    -I made my own ground studs for the big 4AWG amp/capacitor cables. This meant I could keep the ground cable run short and had grounds dedicated to the amp to ensure there wouldn't be any interference. I wanted to avoid drilling holes in the car but made an exception for these studs:

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0568.jpg

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0571.jpg

    In the end I'm pretty satisfied with how it turned out. Though not pictured, I bought a roll of 80 mil sound deadening matting which worked great in reducing rattles.....I found a 10-square foot roll for $21 on Amazon....much cheaper than Dynamat but did the job.

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0532.jpg

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0569.jpg

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0574.jpg

    More miscellaneous pics... the first one isn't great but shows where I mounted the remote sub level control knob which connects to the LC2i. The cable for that was the longest run I had to make for the entire project...

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0744.jpg

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0570.jpg

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0538.jpg

    https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0101.jpg
    2011 S4! Black/Black Alcantara, S-Tronic, Active Rear Differential, B&O (Upgraded)
    -APR Stage 2 w/Blower Pulley
    -Stasis Cat-Back Exhaust
    -Vogtland coilovers
    -ECS Tuning Kohlefaser Luft-Technik full CF Intake


  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings fmzip's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 21 2017
    AZ Member #
    405420
    Location
    CT

    Your post with pics, nice job!

    Nice job! Can I ask, how did you remove the driverside trunk liner? It looks like you have to take off the trunk lid as the hinge goes through the liner? Also it looks to be wrapped around the rear seat?


    =jetfixr07;12823303]After a ton of research and endless forum post reading, I recently performed this subwoofer upgrade. I went a slightly different route component-wise, but I'm pretty happy with the end result, which caters to my personal preferences with regard to the music I like to listen to. I tried to take as many pics of relevant/noteworthy items unique to this installation, and I'm happy to answer any questions! I'll try to avoid rambling, so here's the gear I used:

    -Pioneer GM-D7500M Mono amp
    -Planet Audio 2 Farad capacitor
    -Audio Control LC2i line output converter (with optional ACR1 remote level control)
    -Kicker 40CWD104 Comp D 10" sub

    Items of interest:

    -The 2 farad cap is admittedly huge overkill.....but at $28 I thought it might help to spare the car's electrical system when the stereo is cranked. Plus the digital voltage display is cool to look at:



    -I used the LC2i based on the overwhelmingly good reviews and features, especially the "GTO-Great Turn On" feature, which powers up the unit (and therefore the amp) when it senses an audio signal from the stereo. In theory this means I wouldn't need to find a +12vdc switched power wire since the unit should wake up the second the car is started. Well, it didn't work out that way. For whatever reason, that feature didn't work and I had to track down a switched +12vdc wire after all and run it to the LOC. I found some switched power at the fuse panel in the right (passenger) side of the trunk. Also, you might wonder why I used 1" spacers when mounting the LOC to the middle equipment rack in the left side of the trunk. It was done with cooling in mind. I wasn't sure how hot the LOC would get and I didn't want to melt the plastic tray:









    -I made my own ground studs for the big 4AWG amp/capacitor cables. This meant I could keep the ground cable run short and had grounds dedicated to the amp to ensure there wouldn't be any interference. I wanted to avoid drilling holes in the car but made an exception for these studs:





    In the end I'm pretty satisfied with how it turned out. Though not pictured, I bought a roll of 80 mil sound deadening matting which worked great in reducing rattles.....I found a 10-square foot roll for $21 on Amazon....much cheaper than Dynamat but did the job.







    More miscellaneous pics... the first one isn't great but shows where I mounted the remote sub level control knob which connects to the LC2i. The cable for that was the longest run I had to make for the entire project...







    BMW M850i

  3. #3
    Active Member One Ring jetfixr07's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 23 2016
    AZ Member #
    372239
    My Garage
    1953 D35 V-Tail Doctor Killer!
    Location
    PNW

    Quote Originally Posted by fmzip View Post
    Your post with pics, nice job!

    Nice job! Can I ask, how did you remove the driverside trunk liner? It looks like you have to take off the trunk lid as the hinge goes through the liner? Also it looks to be wrapped around the rear seat?
    Thanks!! Actually it was a lot easier than I guess it must look. There's a slot in both the left and right sides of trunk liner to facilitate removal without removing the trunk lid. The liner is held in place by the standard assortment of plastic trim hardware. As for the rear seat(s), not sure what you're seeing there.....once folded down it made accessing the parcel shelf easier from the rear cabin, but the trunk liner stops short of attaching to/wrapping around the seats.
    2011 S4! Black/Black Alcantara, S-Tronic, Active Rear Differential, B&O (Upgraded)
    -APR Stage 2 w/Blower Pulley
    -Stasis Cat-Back Exhaust
    -Vogtland coilovers
    -ECS Tuning Kohlefaser Luft-Technik full CF Intake


  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings fmzip's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 21 2017
    AZ Member #
    405420
    Location
    CT

    Quote Originally Posted by jetfixr07 View Post
    Thanks!! Actually it was a lot easier than I guess it must look. There's a slot in both the left and right sides of trunk liner to facilitate removal without removing the trunk lid. The liner is held in place by the standard assortment of plastic trim hardware. As for the rear seat(s), not sure what you're seeing there.....once folded down it made accessing the parcel shelf easier from the rear cabin, but the trunk liner stops short of attaching to/wrapping around the seats.

    I had to go out to the garage to look......

    Thanks for pointing this out, had me baffled when I looked at, now I see the slit:

    BMW M850i

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 20 2014
    AZ Member #
    147622
    Location
    Rochester, New York

    Jetfixer07, thank you for sharing I have a few new ideas as I travel down the amp upgrade road.

    Question, when you were looking for the amp placement did it fit on top of the parcel shelf? I am looking to be as stealth as possible but within the limits of practical.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings fmzip's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 21 2017
    AZ Member #
    405420
    Location
    CT

    Quote Originally Posted by BKE View Post
    Jetfixer07, thank you for sharing I have a few new ideas as I travel down the amp upgrade road.

    Question, when you were looking for the amp placement did it fit on top of the parcel shelf? I am looking to be as stealth as possible but within the limits of practical.
    There is no room to fit an amp on the parcel shelf
    BMW M850i

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 20 2014
    AZ Member #
    147622
    Location
    Rochester, New York

    Quote Originally Posted by fmzip View Post
    There is no room to fit an amp on the parcel shelf
    Drat, that would have been optimal. If I am unable to park it into the stereo system compartment then it will be under the parcel shelf.

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