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  1. #1

    The definitive stereo and subwoofer upgrade thread

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    Hey all. Since the question threads keep popping up, I’m going to start the B8 audio and subwoofer upgrade thread where everyone should be able to get most of the info they need in one place. I will update as needed, and please let me know if you’d like to see anything added.

    - 4/6/17: Added subwoofer box options

    - 4/6/17: Added head unit options

    - 4/12/17: Added "getting signal" section. Thanks to Doug97GXE for the input

    - 5/25/18 Added new gear available

    **More coming soon**



    Subwoofer Box Options

    We all agree the B8 is a great car. Unfortunately, it’s free-air subwoofer in the back deck is severely lacking when it comes to bass. That’s probably why a new subwoofer is the most popular upgrade for stereo fans. Let’s start there.



    Custom Fiberglass Box
    Mr. Spectacular has done a couple runs of right and left side trunk cubby fiberglasss boxes in 8” and 10”. These are available here: https://www.akrucarbon.com/product-p...r-side-sub-box Trunk pockets will need to be cut out from whichever side you install into.

    QuattroRocket's box



    SteveYem's box






    B8 Subwoofer Shop
    A new addition to the fold is the B8 Custom Subwoofer Shop located here: https://etsy.com/shop/customsubwoofershop
    These come in 8” or 10” and utilize the passenger side trunk pocket. These don’t require any cutting of the carpet doors or relocating equipment to be able to go back to stock easily, but don’t sit as flush to the trunk wall due to having less room to work with. Many finishes and materials are available.












    Stock Location Replacement
    If you’re not a basshead and just want a bit better low end response than you’re getting now, replacing the factory sub with a better free air unit could be the answer. For this install, you may need to fight rattles on the back deck with sound dampener. Popular drivers for this install have been the free-air subs from Pioneer, such as the TS-SW841D. Some people have been able to use the factory amp to power these, and some have used aftermarket amps.


    Jnicho1's setup


    Hatchman's sub install






    Head Units

    With the B8, Audi integrated some non-audio OEM functions into the stereo and display unit, which made it more difficult to swap out head units.

    Alpine
    Alpine has a line of head units called "restyle" units, meaning they are made to go into a specific vehicle with OEM integrated functions maintained or even improved for said vehicle. The good news: Alpine makes one for the A4/S4/Q5. The bad news: they only make it for Europe. So what is a Concert stereo owner in the US to do?
    You can install this in North America spec cars, and here's the tradeoffs:

    Pros: 3 sets of 4v pre-outs, EQ, bluetooth phone and audio, NAV, HDMI input, high-res touchscreen, and previously unworking buttons being activated such as nav and talk commands. All OEM functions work correctly. Alpine also has a great install video on Youtube here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwiPIYcLQ9Q

    Cons: Head unit, left hand drive kit, rear camera and camera trunk handle mount, and updated US maps may run you $1500+ USD. You will also lose AM frequencies and the optional DVD player is coded to region 2 (Europe). There may be an optional region 1 unit that could work in this Euro head unit, but I would need confirmation from someone who has done it. If you plan on keeping the B&O amp, you'll also need to call Alpine Europe to get an extra part to adjust the signal level. Otherwise you will have a slight hiss over your audio.

    Compatibility with different OEM stereo levels: This head unit is primarily made for Concert stereo with no nav or bluetooth audio, as they will see the most value. This unit is not compatible with Nav and MMI cars due to the optical connection between the head unit and amp. With that said, if you have nav but not MMI (does that exist?) and also changed out the amp to use the preouts from the Alpine, I don't see why this setup wouldn't work for you. If someone has done this head unit and aftermarket amp install with MMI, I would just want confirmation that this setup works before posting it here.





    Chinese Models
    There are various Chinese models that are "similar" to the Alpine, or just add certain components, such as bluetooth or HDMI, but there is little info in the forums about experiences using these. Please feel free to verify if you've used any of these successfully and we'll get it added to the thread. Some examples are:

    http://www.carnaviplayer.com/audi-a4...ad-unit-p-1091

    www.auto-electronics.com/index.php/dynavin-n6-a5.html



    Getting signal with the factory head unit

    For those of you who want to retain the factory head unit, but use aftermarket speakers and amp, how do we get that signal to the new amp?

    Line-out convertors
    When planning on upgrading just the subwoofer, the stock B&O subwoofer output is said to put out up to 80 watts. This is not a power level a typical LOC is used to seeing, and cheaper ones will not be able to handle this power level. The same goes for high-level inputs on amplifiers. Some have been able to deal with input power level, and some haven’t.
    To stay with the “you get what you pay for” theme, the reigning LOC king is the AudioControl LC2i. This is a high-end converter with level controls and a processor for restoring low bass levels that a head unit may cut levels to, to try and protect OEM speakers.





    Let’s say you’ve decided you to upgrade more than just your subwoofer. Things get a little complicated here. Let’s dive into it.
    If you have B&O, here’s your wiring diagram.










    Using this diagram, you *should* be able to tap into the correct wires for your high level inputs. I say *should* because as you can see, Audi decided to use the same color wires twice, once for the woofer/tweeter combination wire, and once for the midrange. I personally, don’t know how/if the midrange is crossed over, but deduction tells me that the other set that goes to woofer/tweeter is a full range signal.

    Finally, for you MMI/Nav guys, you can tap right into the optical cable that goes to your amp for a clean, full range signal. The most popular of these are the Audison “Bit” line. Not for the faint of heart, these are very powerful DSP’s with a plethora of inputs and outputs, auto and manual EQ’s, multiple crossover types for each channel, remote control, etc, etc. etc…




    If you’re going for that great sounding system, you need to be able to EQ your setup to eliminate those frequency peaks and valleys. Three of the most common ways to do that currently for your Audi is the Audison Bit line, the JL Audio Fix, and the Alpine X701D head unit.





    UPDATE 5-25-18


    Updating the thread with new gear!


    Alpine X702D

    Alpine has released their next revision of their OEM integrated head unit for the B8 and Q5. This version includes Apple CarPlay and Android integration.
    https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/...audi/x702d-a4r





    AudioControl ACM-1.300

    AudioControl has come out with a mini class D single channel amp with a built-in LC2i for higher power high-level inputs and factory system bass correction. This thing is only 9" x 3" and perfect for a subwoofer upgrade. Rated for 300 watts at 2 ohms.
    https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-aud...iers/acm-1300/





    12" Subwoofer corner box

    The Audi B8 Custom Subwoofer shop is now carrying 12" corner boxes.
    https://www.etsy.com/shop/CustomSubwooferShop



    ***reserved for future content***
    Last edited by Drunktank; 05-24-2018 at 10:34 PM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    good idea !
    S4 B8.5 no track, just enjoying spirited driving.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings JD S4's Avatar
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    Great thread... THank you
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    Veteran Member Three Rings USAF_Danny's Avatar
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    Definitely going to be doing one of these upgrades. Contemplating on doing the OEM replacement, but I've just been so used to having a sub box in my trunks that it's really no issue. Thanks for the informative thread, I'll probably be doing one of those custom boxes for my install. The battery being in the trunk makes running wires too easy. I did it previously on my A4 before I upgraded to the S4.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings whiped's Avatar
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    Awesome thread.

    Here is the biggest contribution I can make:


    Thank me later
    Geoff
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    452WHP / 443WTQ | 11.352 @ 119.26 | @dirtyaudi

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings USAF_Danny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiped View Post
    Awesome thread.

    Here is the biggest contribution I can make:


    Thank me later
    I don't even know what's going on here haha


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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Joker S4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USAF_Danny View Post
    I don't even know what's going on here haha
    Nor do I, however, I'd like to get to the bottom of this.
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings whiped's Avatar
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    Guess you guys have never removed the C-pillar trim.

    If you do, remember this picture to save yourself an hour of frustration and some blood blisters on your fingers.
    Geoff
    '13 S4 - Glacier White | DSG | 034 Stage 2++ | Current Setup
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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings KRp220's Avatar
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    great thread. i'll be tackling my sound system at some point... came from having B&O which was sufficient for me, and now i just have the stock system, which sucks.

    i know nothing about sound systems but it seems like the stock system is kinda "boomy" and does has a very "hollow" sound like i've cranked the bass up on a boom box from 2002. does anybody have any suggestions for brands and specific products/models for a modest upgrade. i don;t need anything crazy, just something thats on par with B&O (or a smidge better )
    2013 S4 // ESTORIL BLUE // 6MT// RS BUMPER // GIAC STG 2 // FORGE CC // AWE+SCORPION // ECS INTAKE // BILSTEIN+H&R // VOSSEN VFS5 // PSS 265/30/20 // AK // 034 MOUNTS // SB STAGE 3 CLUTCH // CR 15
    + ECS Diffuser, BFI shift knob, tints, sports diff, j-codes, Akebono pads, SS clutch line, Ceramic Pro...
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  10. #10
    4/6/17 - Added head units

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings jnicho1's Avatar
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    Good stuff! Thanks for adding. I was scrolling through and was thinking someone did exactly what I did - haha. I'm an idiot.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings B18b1ex's Avatar
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    We need to add the speakers and speaker adapter info from the other thread. :)

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings rubicant5x's Avatar
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    For the left side trunk cubby, the JL Audio shallow Subwoofer is the perfect fit

    http://www.jlaudio.com/10tw3-d4-car-...-drivers-92184





    The box has a sealed CF of .52 and the subwoofer is .5 on the dot.
    Matt

    2018 Audi RS3
    2001 Audi S4

  14. #14
    Active Member One Ring
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    Great idea

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    Quote Originally Posted by rubicant5x View Post
    For the left side trunk cubby, the JL Audio shallow Subwoofer is the perfect fit

    http://www.jlaudio.com/10tw3-d4-car-...-drivers-92184





    The box has a sealed CF of .52 and the subwoofer is .5 on the dot.

    +1

    The 8 ohm DVC version is going in my B8 on Monday.
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  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings darkstarghost's Avatar
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    Ill try to find my Wire diagram for the B&O system i drew out and tested when i did my sub install!
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  17. #17
    Junior Member Two Rings darksurfer11's Avatar
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    Dynavin is another option for an "add-on". I just recently installed mine and while it isn't perfect, it gives me what I wanted (A2DP, Nav, ability to add back-up cam, and capability to add DVD player for the kiddos). I'll see if I can't get some pictures posted later.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkstarghost View Post
    Ill try to find my Wire diagram for the B&O system i drew out and tested when i did my sub install!
    ...

    Quote Originally Posted by miztahsparklez View Post
    Well... I knew it wouldn't be long before I got the car audio itch. The B&O system just isn't cutting it for me. Good news for people looking to upgrade, I'm likely going to sell all the old B&O speakers. Bad news for me, I think I'm going to be spending some $$.

    Anyhow, has anyone tackled this yet? I've compiled a list of the wiring I may possibly need using the B8 A5/S5 B&O diagram.

    Connection From Amp - J525 BitOne Input Speaker Connector Pin Color Notes
    Center Speaker + CH1 + R158 T32h 5 Blue/White Changes to Blue/White at T17c, Pin 15
    Center Speaker - CH1 - R158 T32h 17 Black/White Changes to Black/White at T17c, Pin 17
    Front Left Tweeter + Use Combined R20 T27a 11 Red/Blue B101, Positive Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
    Front Left Tweeter - Use Combined R20 T27a 24 Brown/Blue B102, Negative Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
    Front Left Midrange + Use Combined R103 T17d 15 Red/Green B101, Positive Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
    Front Left Midrange - Use Combined R103 T17d 17 Brown/Green B102, Negative Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
    Front Left Tweeter/Midrange + CH2 + R20/R103 T32h 6 Red/Blue Shared with R20, R103, contains combined signal
    Front Left Tweeter/Midrange - CH2 - R20/R103 T32h 18 Brown/Blue Shared with R20, R103, contains combined signal
    Front Left Midbass + CH3 + R21 T32h 23 Red/Blue Changes to Red /Blue at T27a, Pin 20 (Main Harness)
    Front Left Midbass - CH3 - R21 T32h 28 Brown/Blue Changes to Brown/Blue at T27a, Pin 22 (Main Harness)
    Front Right Tweeter + Use Combined R22 T27c 11 Blue/White B103, Positive Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
    Front Right Tweeter - Use Combined R22 T27c 24 Black/White B104, Negative Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not neeeded for BitOne
    Front Right Midrange + Use Combined R104 T17f 15 Red/White B103, Positive Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne
    Front Right Midrange - Use Combined R104 T17f 17 Brown/White B104, Negative Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not neeeded for BitOne
    Front Right Tweeter/Midrange + CH4 + R22/R104 T32h 5 Red/Yellow Shared with R22, R104, contains combined signal
    Front Right Tweeter/Midrange - CH4 - R22/R104 T32h 19 Brown/Yellow Shared with R22, R104, contains combined signal
    Front Right Midbass + CH5 + R23 T32h 10 Red/Yellow Changes to Red/Blue at T27c, Pin 20 (Main Harness)
    Front Right Midbass - CH5 - R23 T32h 22 Brown/Yellow Changes to Brown/Blue at T27c, Pin 22 (Main Harness)
    Rear Left Tweeter + Use Combined R14 B487 23 Red/Violet Shared with R159, not needed for BitOne
    Rear Left Tweeter - Use Combined R14 B486 22 Brown/Violet Shared with R159, not needed for BitOne
    Rear Left Midrange + x R105 T32h 8 Red/Gray
    Rear Left Midrange - x R105 T32h 20 Brown/Gray
    Rear Left Midbass + CH6 + R159 T32h 3 Red/Violet Shared with R14, contains full signal
    Rear Left Midbass - CH6 - R159 T32h 15 Brown/Violet Shared with R14, contains full signal
    Rear Right Tweeter + Use Combined R16 B485 21 White/Green Shared with R160, not needed for BitOne
    Rear Right Tweeter - Use Combined R16 B484 20 Blue/Green Shared with R160, not needed for BitOne
    Rear Right Midrange + x R106 T32h 9 Red/Gray
    Rear Right Midrange - x R106 T32h 21 Brown/Gray
    Rear Right Midbass + CH7 + R160 T32h 4 White/Green Shared with R16, contains full signal
    Rear Right Midbass - CH7 - R160 T32h 16 Blue/Green Shared with R16, contains full signal
    Subwoofer + CH8 + R157 T32h 25 White/Yellow
    Subwoofer - CH8 - R157 T32h 30 Blue/Yellow

    Man does the table function suck! Next time I'm posting a PDF.....

    If my theory and wiring chart is correct, you should be able to use this to wire up other processors (MS8) or LOC for your subwoofer, etc. You will want to use the "full" or "combined" signals wherever possible. After looking at the B&O schematic, it looks like there are things like microphone and telephone mute that go through the amp, so it doesn't look like it's a great idea to remove the amp completely in favor of a device like the Mobridge (though straight digital to digital sounds AWESOME!)

    I realize I'm not 100% experienced in the Audi realm of car audio yet, so please forgive me if I've made an error above. I won't be able to confirm anything until I actually begin install. However, I hope to be building an awesome SQ install that gets plenty loud.

    I will be using the factory locations for most speakers in the car and I will be removing the additional midranges and tweeters in the rear. I will be utilizing the rear midbass locations for some full range 6", removing the stock B&O sub to replace with some sort of sub stage, replacing the front midbasses with 7 or 8" speakers (based on depth), 1" tweets in the sails, 3" midrange on dash, and a 3" midrange in center. As I'm out of speaker outputs for the rear speakers, I might just run them from the factory amp, or run an Audio Authority 3xs to split up the front stage further and give me a couple more outputs for those rears.

    Confused yet?

    Stay tuned....The B8 would be the second OEM integrated install I've done, so we'll see where it takes me.
    Present:
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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    OP You can add LOC to the list .. i've tried 3 so far


    LOC (Line Output Converter) - essential when adding a subwoofer to convert the Digital Signals to analog

    Official Definition
    Line output converters (LOCs) are used to convert a head unit's speaker outputs or the outputs of an OEM amplifier into a signal suitable to drive the preamp inputs of an amplifier. ... When the head unit is off, the voltage on the output wires is 0 volts DC.


    PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter

    the cheap alternative

    Cost: $8 - $30



    Impressions: Worked ok.. bass notes were delayed.. couldn't get the phase to work accurately. However i used to DJ and can play multiple instruments so certain transitions and notes missing i can tell it may not bother you. Also the amount of power i was pushing would make this more noticable

    AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter Wwith AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control

    the top choice when adding a Subwoofer to this platform

    Cost: $70



    Impressions: Workfs perfectly, it maybe out of some peoples price range but its worth the money.. and after it being my 3rd choice i should have listened to the forum and got it in the first place.


    JL Audio FiX™ 82

    The expensive choice and NOT for using when just adding a subwoofer

    Cost: $350



    Impressions: don't use this product if you're only adding a subwoofer.. its for if you want to replace all your speakers. I made this mistake and after the headache of trying to get it to work i made the switch to the audio control. Now it is collecting dust in my closet
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  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings darkstarghost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doug97gxe View Post
    ...
    Man where was this when i did my subs!
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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Doug - you should go buy some speakers so you can use that FIX 82.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt View Post
    Doug - you should go buy some speakers so you can use that FIX 82.
    Or another car with shitty speakers.. I also have a Rainbow 2 channel amp and 2 morel ultimo sc subs collecting dust too


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    2015 Audi S5 6MT | Ibis White | EPL Stage 2

  23. #23
    i know nothing about sound systems but it seems like the stock system is kinda "boomy" and does has a very "hollow" sound like i've cranked the bass up on a boom box from 2002. does anybody have any suggestions for brands and specific products/models for a modest upgrade. i don;t need anything crazy, just something thats on par with B&O (or a smidge better )

    In my opinion, it doesn't take very much to blow away the B&O sub. A JL 8" in a proper box will murder it, and it's inexpensive and hardly takes up any room. Like a lot of people on here, I was in the "bigger is better" camp, but man does the 8w3 continue to surprise me. My first car was two JL 12w1's, typical kid taking up his whole trunk with a box. Then when I got the FR-S, all I could fit was a 10" in the corner. I didn't want to go that small based of of old beliefs, but that 10W3 pounded and surprised me. Fast forward a couple years to the S4, and I went through the same thing with the 8w3. I didn't want to cut out the trunk pocket to be able to fit a 10", but I didn't think an 8" would ever do it for me. I was wrong again.

    To come full circle, what I was just talking about isn't even in the same universe as that piece of crap mounted in your back deck. You'd be happy with a JL 8", no doubt.

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drunktank View Post
    In my opinion, it doesn't take very much to blow away the B&O sub. A JL 8" in a proper box will murder it, and it's inexpensive and hardly takes up any room. Like a lot of people on here, I was in the "bigger is better" camp, but man does the 8w3 continue to surprise me. My first car was two JL 12w1's, typical kid taking up his whole trunk with a box. Then when I got the FR-S, all I could fit was a 10" in the corner. I didn't want to go that small based of of old beliefs, but that 10W3 pounded and surprised me. Fast forward a couple years to the S4, and I went through the same thing with the 8w3. I didn't want to cut out the trunk pocket to be able to fit a 10", but I didn't think an 8" would ever do it for me. I was wrong again.

    To come full circle, what I was just talking about isn't even in the same universe as that piece of crap mounted in your back deck. You'd be happy with a JL 8", no doubt.
    The world gets even more amazing when u step away from the JL brand .. it's like Jim Carrey in the Truman Show


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    2018 Ford F-150 5.0 | Shadow Black | Hellion Twin Turbo..etc
    2018 Suzuki GSX-R 1000R | Black/Blue | FBO


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    2015 Audi S5 6MT | Ibis White | EPL Stage 2

  25. #25
    There's always something better, but JL has good combination of price, quality, and volume required. As he said, he's looking for a "modest upgrade", not a SQ competition.

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drunktank View Post
    There's always something better, but JL has good combination of price, quality, and volume required. As he said, he's looking for a "modest upgrade", not a SQ competition.
    That's the thing it's a lot much better at the same price and better quality but I digress


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  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings miztahsparklez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkstarghost View Post
    Man where was this when i did my subs!
    It was there when you used the search button ;)

    Also, I've been competing in SQ competitions with this car


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  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings white fish's Avatar
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    so what would be better a 8" in the cubby or a 10" free air in the deck?

  29. #29
    Established Member Two Rings Andrew Lane's Avatar
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    A 10" in either a sealed box or in the cubby would be the best option in my opinion. I would also recommend an amp that has speaker level inputs instead of adding a line out converter. It saves a bit of messing around! Here is a link to a write up that I did for my sub and amp installation on my non B&O system. https://www.audiworld.com/forums/aud...stall-2906554/
    It's a bit lengthy, but I think that I pretty well covered everything!

  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings miztahsparklez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by white fish View Post
    so what would be better a 8" in the cubby or a 10" free air in the deck?
    Larger cone area wins. However, your performance will suffer if you can't separate the front and rear waves of the speaker completely, as you will get cancellation.

    I'm actually running two 10s in the rear deck, with a reinforced baffle that seals the subs from the cabin and prevents the deck from flexing as much.

    You might see better performance out of a sealed box only if you are not able to completely seal the trunk off.

    Free air will use less power demands as well, as it will take less power to move the speaker.


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  31. #31
    Active Member Two Rings mcintoshi's Avatar
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    Great thread. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the NON B&O cars?
    2019 TT RS Coupe
    2014 Audi S4 (Sold)

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings cspcrx's Avatar
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    Anyone have one of those Etsy boxes? They sure look nice and come with the speaker.
    2012 Ibis P+ / DSG / Silk Napa / B&O / Sport Diff. / ADS lite / MMI & Nav / APR Stage 2+ & TCU Tuned / Ultra Charger / 184mm KI LIL BITCH / ECS Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake / AMS Alpha Cooler / ECS 2-Piece Rotors / Akebono Pads / VMR 803 19x9.5 ET45 265-35-19 PSS / ECS Drivetrain Bushing Inserts / CR-15

    11.8 @ 116mph 2487DA on 93oct file Stage 2+

    THEN THEN THEN Rinse & Repeat!

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by cspcrx View Post
    Anyone have one of those Etsy boxes? They sure look nice and come with the speaker.
    I would get it without the speaker because the box itself looks pretty nice but you're paying JL tax at that price


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  34. #34
    There's Hertz and Audison drivers on there also. Instead of bashing JL in every thread, I would love to hear why you have this disdain for the brand. I'm not being sarcastic, I would love to learn from your experience because there's a lot of people that disagree with you on that.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drunktank View Post
    There's Hertz and Audison drivers on there also. Instead of bashing JL in every thread, I would love to hear why you have this disdain for the brand. I'm not being sarcastic, I would love to learn from your experience because there's a lot of people that disagree with you on that.
    Where did I bash JL? You don't want me to bash JL I could go on for days

    JL makes a mediocre product at a premium price .. people who have been around car audio for a while know this.. JL is basically paying $40k for a maxima when an A4 is cheaper


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Present:
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    2018 Ford F-150 5.0 | Shadow Black | Hellion Twin Turbo..etc
    2018 Suzuki GSX-R 1000R | Black/Blue | FBO


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  36. #36
    Right, but that's easy to say without ever backing it up. I've been using JL since the 90's and it's always treated me well, decent price, lots of compliments. I know it's not the highest quality pinnacle brand, but I also don't feel like everyone who uses JL has no idea what good sounds like. Why don't you educate us on your experience?

  37. #37
    Added "getting signal" section.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drunktank View Post
    Right, but that's easy to say without ever backing it up. I've been using JL since the 90's and it's always treated me well, decent price, lots of compliments. I know it's not the highest quality pinnacle brand, but I also don't feel like everyone who uses JL has no idea what good sounds like. Why don't you educate us on your experience?
    I've had setup's JL, MB Quartz, Diamond Audio, Rainbow Audio, Image Dynamics, Resonant Engineering and Morel as far as speakers

    - JL was ok .. decent drivers.. not as clear and a high price tag
    - MB Quartz was also ok .. along the same quality as JL but the Tweeters were muddy
    - Diamond Audio .. excellent for the price tag and better clarity than JL
    - Rainbow Audio .. by far my favorite of all for components .. quality materials .. excellent sound clarity .. Subwoofers were ok.. more SQ focused didn't go loud enough
    - Image Dynamics .. my fav subwoofer .. blows away all competition .. even 1 10" sounded better than 2 12w6's a friend had
    - Resonant Engineering .. loved this subwoofer .. not as great as Image Dynamics but my second fav
    - Morel ... loved this subwoofer as well.. excellent sound quality .. could be a bit louder

    Amplifiers .. i've had JL, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Rainbow Audio, US Amps and Kenwood

    - JL decent product .. but at a slightly lower price my friends Zapco amp performed much better
    - Kicker .. worked great when i had it.. but soon as it got hot the amp would shut down
    - Rockford Fosgate .. the older equipment was great.. new stuff is not as good
    - Rainbow Audio.. my fav amp.. super clean.. doesn't run hot and puts out watts as advertised
    - US Amps .. this worked great for the application i had.. SQ not as good.. but it did work very good
    - Kenwood was ok


    I've found a lot of JL Owners i have met got sold into buying it from the Car Audio shop as the best thing since sliced bread and have never actually tried various set ups.. so they don't know any better..

    If you've dealt with Car Audio shops for a while you know they like to push whatever they feel like pushing based on which manufacturer is giving them the discount at that point.. those guys are worse than used car salesmen
    Present:
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    2018 Ford F-150 5.0 | Shadow Black | Hellion Twin Turbo..etc
    2018 Suzuki GSX-R 1000R | Black/Blue | FBO


    Past:
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  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Remember when people were paying $100 for monster HDMI cables then monoprice came in selling them for $10 .. then you had people saying the monster cable was clearer even though the cables were digital so it was either it worked or didn't .. that's my feeling on JL Audio

    Ironically i feel the same about Beats headphones which are also made by monster


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Present:
    2020 Porsche 992S 7MT | Jet Black Metallic | Stock
    2018 Ford F-150 5.0 | Shadow Black | Hellion Twin Turbo..etc
    2018 Suzuki GSX-R 1000R | Black/Blue | FBO


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    2015 Audi S5 6MT | Ibis White | EPL Stage 2

  40. #40
    Active Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drunktank View Post
    Right, but that's easy to say without ever backing it up. I've been using JL since the 90's and it's always treated me well, decent price, lots of compliments. I know it's not the highest quality pinnacle brand, but I also don't feel like everyone who uses JL has no idea what good sounds like. Why don't you educate us on your experience?
    JL speakers are trash. Their sub are ok. Hertz is way better quality. And their JL Amps are way over priced.

    Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk

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