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  1. #1041
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmzip View Post
    I would definitely remove the stock sub completely and use that as a port to get more bass in the cabin.....Need some details on retrofitting an electric sunshade, link??!!
    Can’t really provide a link yet as I’ve not put it in a thread. It’s one of many many retrofit mods I’m doing at the same time. When they are all finished it will go in one thread showing everything.

    Either way, don’t think it’s an option on the S4.

  2. #1042
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    Forgot to say, removing the sub is the option I’ve gone with.

    I’m still ok the fence about AP8 or AV6. Really don’t want to have to amp the front end.

    Now people have me thinking about the tweeters which before I wasn’t even considering.

  3. #1043
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    Yes remove the factory sub 10x more bass!


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  4. #1044
    Veteran Member Four Rings Morritse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulxxwall View Post
    Yes remove the factory sub 10x more bass!


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Does doing this mess with the stock amp?
    FBO B8. ~ 10.95@126 ~ 2.96s 0-60 ~ full weight street tires.

  5. #1045
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    Nope


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  6. #1046
    Veteran Member Four Rings fmzip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morritse View Post
    Does doing this mess with the stock amp?
    No, it should actually help the stock AMP with less draw on it
    BMW M850i

  7. #1047
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    IMG_0615.JPG


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  8. #1048
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    IMG_0616.JPG
    This little setup right here bangs!!!


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  9. #1049
    Senior Member Three Rings audigsr's Avatar
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    Thinking about mounting the audiocontrol 1.300 amp with some velcro attached (to the driver's side cubby in the slot under the stock amp) . Would this be a bad idea in terms of heat? I would think by putting some velcro in 2-3 strips under the amp would provide a small gap for airflow.
    Last edited by audigsr; 11-01-2018 at 10:10 AM.
    '15 Daytona Grey S4
    034 Stage 2+

  10. #1050
    Veteran Member Four Rings Morritse's Avatar
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    Cleaned up the install. Not a fire hazard anymore :p
    FBO B8. ~ 10.95@126 ~ 2.96s 0-60 ~ full weight street tires.

  11. #1051
    Veteran Member Four Rings cspcrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audigsr View Post
    Thinking about mounting the audiocontrol 1.300 amp with some velcro attached (to the driver's side cubby in the slot under the stock amp) . Would this be a bad idea in terms of heat? I would think by putting some velcro in 2-3 strips under the amp would provide a small gap for airflow.
    That’s where mine is and no issues at all.

    That is much better no exposed wires.
    2012 Ibis P+ / DSG / Silk Napa / B&O / Sport Diff. / ADS lite / MMI & Nav / APR Stage 2+ & TCU Tuned / Ultra Charger / 184mm KI LIL BITCH / ECS Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake / AMS Alpha Cooler / ECS 2-Piece Rotors / Akebono Pads / VMR 803 19x9.5 ET45 265-35-19 PSS / ECS Drivetrain Bushing Inserts / CR-15

    11.8 @ 116mph 2487DA on 93oct file Stage 2+

    THEN THEN THEN Rinse & Repeat!

  12. #1052
    Senior Member Three Rings audigsr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cspcrx View Post
    That’s where mine is and no issues at all.
    Did you mount your metal bracket with velcro as well? I noticed in your pic the amp is screwed to the metal plate, curious on how the metal plate is secured to the cubby? I'm still unsure if I should do the metal plate mount as well, or just go straight velcro to the amp to the cubby slot. Need to make a trip to the hardware store tomorrow after work.

    Going to try to get the wiring install and stock sub removal done this weekend. Super excited.
    '15 Daytona Grey S4
    034 Stage 2+

  13. #1053
    Veteran Member Four Rings cspcrx's Avatar
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    No the plat bolts to the plastic rack. It was not hard to do at all. Velcro might work though.
    2012 Ibis P+ / DSG / Silk Napa / B&O / Sport Diff. / ADS lite / MMI & Nav / APR Stage 2+ & TCU Tuned / Ultra Charger / 184mm KI LIL BITCH / ECS Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake / AMS Alpha Cooler / ECS 2-Piece Rotors / Akebono Pads / VMR 803 19x9.5 ET45 265-35-19 PSS / ECS Drivetrain Bushing Inserts / CR-15

    11.8 @ 116mph 2487DA on 93oct file Stage 2+

    THEN THEN THEN Rinse & Repeat!

  14. #1054
    Senior Member Three Rings audigsr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cspcrx View Post
    No the plat bolts to the plastic rack. It was not hard to do at all. Velcro might work though.
    Alright, I'll give it a shot. Thanks for all the info.
    '15 Daytona Grey S4
    034 Stage 2+

  15. #1055
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    My audio installer is seriously dissuading me from installing the AP8s. He thinks with a dedicated 12" sub there's already plenty of bass, and frankly, having driven around in preparation for a few days without the sub in the parcel shelf, the stock front speakers already sound pretty damn good to me in terms of punch.

    I'm going to do the AV3.0s, but given how much I already like the sound of the front doors, I'm concerned that the AP8s will actually be a step forward.

  16. #1056
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adamantium View Post
    My audio installer is seriously dissuading me from installing the AP8s. He thinks with a dedicated 12" sub there's already plenty of bass, and frankly, having driven around in preparation for a few days without the sub in the parcel shelf, the stock front speakers already sound pretty damn good to me in terms of punch.

    I'm going to do the AV3.0s, but given how much I already like the sound of the front doors, I'm concerned that the AP8s will actually be a step forward.
    The stock B&O front drivers are decent down to 50hz but start to distort below that with bass heavy material. If you’re not playing music too loud you may rarely encounter it. I went with a separately powered 10” and stock front drivers for a year before swapping in the AP8s. The improvement was more subtle than expected, and they are definitely more power hungry, but I have eliminated those situations where the stock speakers would “bottom out” and distort. It’s not about quantity of bass, it’s about quality.

  17. #1057
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    So it's really a function of fixing the rare situations when they don't sound great. I must admit I have heard them lose a little control at the bottom end when over driven.

    The set up current feels very well matched, there's a real warmth to the complete sound, like it has been effectively designed to cover the whole audible range consistently.

    I have interfered with stock set ups before and while I have found higher quality components that are more transparent, more capable and accurate, they do not gel with the rest of the set up and tend to ruin the overall sound.

    I'm most concerned about upsetting the balance of what may well be inferior but is already well matched.

    Are my concerns unwarranted if considering the AP8s?
    Last edited by Adamantium; 11-06-2018 at 07:28 AM.

  18. #1058
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adamantium View Post
    So it's really a function of fixing the rare situations when they don't sound great. I must admit I have heard them lose a little control at the bottom end when over driven.

    The set up current feels very well matched, there's a real warmth to the complete sound, like it has been effectively design to cover the whole audible range consistently.

    I have interfered with stock set ups before and while I have found higher quality components that are more transparent, more capable and accurate, they do not gel with the rest of the set up and tend to ruin the overall sound.

    I'm most concerned about upsetting the balance of what may well be inferior but is already well matched.

    Are my concerns unwarranted if considering the AP8s?
    Yes, unwarranted. You'll have to turn the volume up 10% more, but they are an excellent tonal match for the rest of the system. Especially since you're already upgrading to the 3.0 midrange drivers. Others here have taken the next step with the AV 6.5's up front, but all indications are you really need a new amp to drive them properly (or to at least realize the sonic benefits).

  19. #1059
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    Thanks Dobbler,

    Appreciate the feedback.

    I'm really against any additional amps at this stage, but do like the idea of an audison Ap8.9bit with a digital input directly from the fibre optic set up - so much nicer than a high level input.

    Anyway, that's for later.

    Thanks again.

  20. #1060
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adamantium View Post
    My audio installer is seriously dissuading me from installing the AP8s. He thinks with a dedicated 12" sub there's already plenty of bass, and frankly, having driven around in preparation for a few days without the sub in the parcel shelf, the stock front speakers already sound pretty damn good to me in terms of punch.

    I'm going to do the AV3.0s, but given how much I already like the sound of the front doors, I'm concerned that the AP8s will actually be a step forward.
    He’s right! A dedicated 12” sub would serve you way better!


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  21. #1061
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    This was never a question of 12” JL TW1 or AP8s, it was both or just the sub.

    I’m now going for just the sub initially an AV3s.

  22. #1062
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    My sub went in today.

    It’s wired to ignition positive but is a signal sensing amp. Turns on with bass.

    I also wired in a remote bass control.

    TW1 is incredibly loud and needs much turning down. I turned down the bass on the stock set up to give the mids a break at high output.

    Also installed the voce 3.0s. Not easy to get the old ones out, to reach the wires or put the new ones in, under the steeper raked S5 windscreen. Well worth the effort though.

  23. #1063
    Senior Member Three Rings audigsr's Avatar
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    Can anyone with a B8.5 chime in where you tapped into for remote relay for the amp?

    So far the only solution I've seen is pinching into the relay as pictured in the passenger trunk pocket:

    Just wanted to make sure there wasn't better solution than this for this area.
    '15 Daytona Grey S4
    034 Stage 2+

  24. #1064
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    Quote Originally Posted by audigsr View Post
    Can anyone with a B8.5 chime in where you tapped into for remote relay for the amp?

    So far the only solution I've seen is pinching into the relay as pictured in the passenger trunk pocket

    Just wanted to make sure there wasn't better solution than this for this area.
    I'd appreciate an answer to this too - currently my sub amp is signal sensing but that gives a little pop - I'd prefer a dedicated remote.

  25. #1065
    Established Member Two Rings GotMo's Avatar
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    I used that relay wire for my remote wire. Soldered to the wire below the relay. It's not an accessory lead, so the car has to be running in order for this wire to see 12v. I looked everywhere to find an accessory wire I could use. This was the best option.

  26. #1066
    Senior Member Three Rings audigsr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GotMo View Post
    I used that relay wire for my remote wire. Soldered to the wire below the relay. It's not an accessory lead, so the car has to be running in order for this wire to see 12v. I looked everywhere to find an accessory wire I could use. This was the best option.
    Thanks for the info. Might have to solder mine too, so it doesn't slip out. Does it matter which prong you tap into? I haven't pulled my relay out yet, so i'm not sure what it looks like underneath it.
    '15 Daytona Grey S4
    034 Stage 2+

  27. #1067
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    Also meant to say, I fitted my amp in left side of the boot under the b and o amp. Fits perfectly.

  28. #1068
    Established Member Two Rings GotMo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audigsr View Post
    Thanks for the info. Might have to solder mine too, so it doesn't slip out. Does it matter which prong you tap into? I haven't pulled my relay out yet, so i'm not sure what it looks like underneath it.
    Remove the 10mm bolt holding the fuse panel down. Lift the panel, you'll see a black wire coming off the relay. Solder to this one. See pic.

    image2.jpgimage1 (2).jpg

  29. #1069
    Senior Member Three Rings audigsr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GotMo View Post
    Remove the 10mm bolt holding the fuse panel down. Lift the panel, you'll see a black wire coming off the relay. Solder to this one. See pic.

    image2.jpgimage1 (2).jpg
    Thanks a bunch! This worked like a charm, picture really helped.

    My install is finally complete. Now I just got to get the amp tuning down.
    '15 Daytona Grey S4
    034 Stage 2+

  30. #1070
    Active Member One Ring a_s-Oo4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmzip View Post
    Audison AP1 Prima tweeters pair with the Prima 8's

    Four Prima 8's would be way too much in my opinion. Try two in the front and see how you like it to start. Being able to dial down the sub with the ARC-3 will be helpful as I think with the stock B&O amp it can be a bit much at times
    What are your thoughts on the Audison Voce AV-K6 installed in both the front and rear? From what I’ve been researching, the Audison Voce line is far superior to the Audison Prima line. Sorry to keep adding to this, just trying to gather as much information as possible before I buy.
    2011 A5 Prestige S-line | Ibis White | 6MT | RS-5 pedals | WeatherTech liners | Audison Voce |
    more to come...

  31. #1071
    Veteran Member Four Rings fmzip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_s-Oo4 View Post
    What are your thoughts on the Audison Voce AV-K6 installed in both the front and rear? From what I’ve been researching, the Audison Voce line is far superior to the Audison Prima line. Sorry to keep adding to this, just trying to gather as much information as possible before I buy.
    I first installed the Voce 6.5s coax's in my front doors......it lost so much mid range bass over the stock B&O's. I put the 6.5's in the rears and put the Prima 8's in the front.

    Unless you're going with an aftermarket amp like PeteRock did, I think you may find the mid bass lacking. Also, I am not a fan of the rear door tweeters by my ears which is why the coax's suited perfect for the rear doors
    Last edited by fmzip; 11-13-2018 at 05:22 PM.
    BMW M850i

  32. #1072
    Veteran Member Four Rings PeteRock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmzip View Post
    I first installed the Voce 6.5s coax's in my front doors......it lost so much mid range bass over the stock B&O's. I put the 6.5's in the rears and put the Prima 8's in the front.

    Unless you're going with an aftermarket amp like PeteRock did, I think you may find the mid bass lacking. Also, I am not a fan of the rear door tweeters by my ears which is why the coax's suited perfect for the rear doors
    True story.....I have the Voce AV K6s in front and the rear and they sound amazing but I drive them with JL Audio HD 600 amps so there’s a lot of power pushing them.....if you tried running these off of the OEM amp you would be wasting their true potential


    Pete

  33. #1073
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    What other options are there then the voce or prima? Or is there a site you guys are getting these speakers not from Europe?

  34. #1074
    Active Member One Ring a_s-Oo4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteRock View Post
    True story.....I have the Voce AV K6s in front and the rear and they sound amazing but I drive them with JL Audio HD 600 amps so there’s a lot of power pushing them.....if you tried running these off of the OEM amp you would be wasting their true potential


    Pete
    Ah... Good to know. Due to finances, I planned to upgrade the speakers in sections and then finally add a multi channel amp to drive them. I think you might have sold me on the AV-K6 in the front and rear...

    PeteRock are you using your JL Audio amp to power your other speakers as well? I’m looking into multi channel amps but not entirely sure of the channel amount, assuming all my aftermarket speakers are going to be 4ohms. Any thoughts on the AudioControl Matrix D-6.1200?
    2011 A5 Prestige S-line | Ibis White | 6MT | RS-5 pedals | WeatherTech liners | Audison Voce |
    more to come...

  35. #1075
    Active Member One Ring a_s-Oo4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fr3nchy524 View Post
    What other options are there then the voce or prima? Or is there a site you guys are getting these speakers not from Europe?
    Not that I’m into conformity.... but the Audison Voce & Prima line has proven that it’s an excellent replacement (quality greatest to least respectively). I’ve been scouting for price points on thee ol’ interwebs and I’ve found eBay to be the most reasonable. I’m sure others will chime in and express their thoughts.
    2011 A5 Prestige S-line | Ibis White | 6MT | RS-5 pedals | WeatherTech liners | Audison Voce |
    more to come...

  36. #1076
    Active Member One Ring a_s-Oo4's Avatar
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    By the way... just received this lovely piece in the mail today.
    FA52F195-2AF1-437D-A638-F391011A965D.jpg
    Installing soon...
    2011 A5 Prestige S-line | Ibis White | 6MT | RS-5 pedals | WeatherTech liners | Audison Voce |
    more to come...

  37. #1077
    Veteran Member Four Rings PeteRock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_s-Oo4 View Post
    Ah... Good to know. Due to finances, I planned to upgrade the speakers in sections and then finally add a multi channel amp to drive them. I think you might have sold me on the AV-K6 in the front and rear...

    PeteRock are you using your JL Audio amp to power your other speakers as well? I’m looking into multi channel amps but not entirely sure of the channel amount, assuming all my aftermarket speakers are going to be 4ohms. Any thoughts on the AudioControl Matrix D-6.1200?
    So I am using 2- JL Audio HD 600/4 Amps to power 3- Voce 3s in the dash and the 2- sets of Voce AV K6s...I’m also using a JL Audio HD 750/1 to power a 10W7 sub....it’s a fully active setup that’s run through the Audison Bit One HD DSP

    Ebay definitely has the best prices for Audison and I don’t think that anyone here has had any issues but my buddy who has owned a custom audio shop for years told me that there’s a lot of fake Audison and other car audio out there so I got everything from him through Audison directly


    Pete

  38. #1078
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_s-Oo4 View Post
    By the way... just received this lovely piece in the mail today.
    FA52F195-2AF1-437D-A638-F391011A965D.jpg
    Installing soon...
    Hello,

    Is this the subwoofer enclosure for the passenger side? Are you using it with the Pioneer woofer? Do you mind sharing where you got it from?


    EDIT : Just realized she is an A5, are the cubby holes between the A5 and S4 b8.5, the same?

    Thanks

  39. #1079
    Established Member Two Rings Urogazm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sailakfan View Post
    Hello,

    Is this the subwoofer enclosure for the passenger side? Are you using it with the Pioneer woofer? Do you mind sharing where you got it from?

    Thanks
    I got the same one just haven't installed it yet. You can get it off ebay. It comes from the UK and yes it's goes on the right side

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Audizine mobile app

  40. #1080
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    Quote Originally Posted by Urogazm View Post
    I got the same one just haven't installed it yet. You can get it off ebay. It comes from the UK and yes it's goes on the right side

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Audizine mobile app
    Thanks for the quick response my friend. I did search on ebay, but only found the driver's side enclosure for A4. Could you please share the link? Do you know if it will be a perfect fit or needs any adjustment? The one Chris sells on etsy is good, but I am little leary about drilling holes in the pocket and also he sells them with the woofer.

    Has anyone installed the ebay right side one?

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