The definitive stereo and subwoofer upgrade thread

[waxxonMTL]

Quick subject change:

People have recommended the audison prima 8s in the front doors.

Just wondering if there’s a voce 8 available separately and if so, why have those not been recommended to go with the voce 3s in the dash?

https://www.audison.eu/product_lines/voce/

biggest is 6.5

[PeteRock]

https://www.audison.eu/product_lines/voce/

biggest is 6.5

I started with the Prima 8s and swapped them for the Voce AV K6s which I run in the front and rear and they blow the Primas away.....more than enough bass especially if you have an upgraded sub


Pete

[Dobbler]

I started with the Prima 8s and swapped them for the Voce AV K6s which I run in the front and rear and they blow the Primas away.....more than enough bass especially if you have an upgraded sub


Pete

Driving them with stock B&O amp? What makes them so much better than the Prima 8's?

[PeteRock]

Driving them with stock B&O amp? What makes them so much better than the Prima 8's?

Driving them with JL Audio amps....the Voce line is a lot better than the Primas....the bass and mids are tighter and cleaner and the tweeters produce more accurate highs....and you can drive them a lot harder


Pete

[Dobbler]

Driving them with JL Audio amps....the Voce line is a lot better than the Primas....the bass and mids are tighter and cleaner and the tweeters produce more accurate highs....and you can drive them a lot harder


Pete

I'm rocking the VOCE 3.0 in the dash, and the Prima 8's in the front doors. The VOCE 6.5 have 2.5db less sensitivity and I don't think the B&O amp has enough to drive them "well".

[PeteRock]

I'm rocking the VOCE 3.0 in the dash, and the Prima 8's in the front doors. The VOCE 6.5 have 2.5db less sensitivity and I don't think the B&O amp has enough to drive them "well".

You might be right about that....I initially started with Voce 3s in the dash and Prima 8s in the doors with the B&O amp and it sounded great....wasn’t until I upgraded to the JL amps and then swapped to the Voce 6.5s that I noticed a real difference


Pete

[Adamantium]

Thanks Pete.

Where are you getting the source from for your JL amps?

Are you running new speaker cable or did you just replace the b and o amp in its stock location and reuse its output wiring?

I was thinking about using the stock fibre network and running an audison multichannel amp buy I’m concerned about losing the processing functions from the stock set up. I don’t know if these are controlled by a data connection in the amp itself which would obviously be losses or if retaining the fibre as the source would retain the sound processing assuming it’s don’t in the MMI unit.

I find the stock B and O to be one of the best sounding OEM set ups I’ve ever heard and am worried that any fundamental changes will be a retrograde step.

I have a JL12TW1 sub in a perfectly sized box and have removed the shelf sub (nothing installed yet). I was going to fit the voce 3s and the prima 8s. My biggest concern is losing the very tight punchy bass of the stock system that currently feels like it’s coming from the front doors but probably isn’t.

[PeteRock]

Thanks Pete.

Where are you getting the source from for your JL amps?

Are you running new speaker cable or did you just replace the b and o amp in its stock location and reuse its output wiring?

I was thinking about using the stock fibre network and running an audison multichannel amp buy I’m concerned about losing the processing functions from the stock set up. I don’t know if these are controlled by a data connection in the amp itself which would obviously be losses or if retaining the fibre as the source would retain the sound processing assuming it’s don’t in the MMI unit.

I find the stock B and O to be one of the best sounding OEM set ups I’ve ever heard and am worried that any fundamental changes will be a retrograde step.

I have a JL12TW1 sub in a perfectly sized box and have removed the shelf sub (nothing installed yet). I was going to fit the voce 3s and the prima 8s. My biggest concern is losing the very tight punchy bass of the stock system that currently feels like it’s coming from the front doors but probably isn’t.

I run everything through the Audison Bit One DSP so I could retain the OEM head unit....this requires leaving the B&O amp in the car to provide the signal

I agree and at first was pleased with the sound once I added a small sub with amp to the B&O while disabling the OEM sub but then decided to go down the rabbit hole of swapping the dash and door speakers for Voce 3s and Prima 8s and the rest is history ;)

If you upgraded the OEM sub and just did the Voce 3s and Prima 8s you would be very happy with the results....you won’t lose anything from the stock sound and only stand to gain in overall quality of sound and tight punchy bass

The key is to know when to say when or be prepared to go all in...either way you won’t be disappointed :)


Pete

[Adamantium]

My issue is already having a 12” sub in a dedicated box and a morel monoblock amp.

Going to do 3” voce, so only question is AP8s with B and O amp of AV6s and some kind of aftermarket amp.

Think probably the former.

Question then is why you didn’t use the fibre optic signal to feed your bit 1 by means of the additional audison DA box you can buy?

[PeteRock]

My issue is already having a 12” sub in a dedicated box and a morel monoblock amp.

Going to do 3” voce, so only question is AP8s with B and O amp of AV6s and some kind of aftermarket amp.

Think probably the former.

Question then is why you didn’t use the fibre optic signal to feed your bit 1 by means of the additional audison DA box you can buy?

I had everything installed by a custom audio shop that my buddy owns so that may be how they did it and I’m not explaining it correctly


Pete

[waxxonMTL]

I'm rocking the VOCE 3.0 in the dash, and the Prima 8's in the front doors. The VOCE 6.5 have 2.5db less sensitivity and I don't think the B&O amp has enough to drive them "well".

I second that opinion. For B&O amp, it would be interesting to see if the voce still sound much better ( which is subjective by the way..) than the prima 8. I'm unsure too due to the sensitivity beeing less.

Prima - aimed to be used with stock power amp
Voce - Use full potential of full power aftermarket amp

Nonetheless, I shall put my comment friday morning when I get the AP1, Voce3 and Prima8 installed with stock amp

[Adamantium]

Nonetheless, I shall put my comment friday morning when I get the AP1, Voce3 and Prima8 installed with stock amp

Looking forward to that comment!

[PeteRock]

I second that opinion. For B&O amp, it would be interesting to see if the voce still sound much better ( which is subjective by the way..) than the prima 8. I'm unsure too due to the sensitivity beeing less.

Prima - aimed to be used with stock power amp
Voce - Use full potential of full power aftermarket amp

Nonetheless, I shall put my comment friday morning when I get the AP1, Voce3 and Prima8 installed with stock amp

You’ll love the sound....that’s the first step I took after upgrading the Sub....the stock B&O amp does a nice job of driving them

You’re spot on about the Voce 6.5s too....at first I was driving them with JL Slash 300 amps and they sounded great but then I upgraded to JL HD 600 amps and now they sound amazing....they are definitely a speaker that feeds off of the additional power and sound better the harder you drive them


Pete

[fmzip]

I'm rocking the VOCE 3.0 in the dash, and the Prima 8's in the front doors. The VOCE 6.5 have 2.5db less sensitivity and I don't think the B&O amp has enough to drive them "well".

This is spot on....I bought the Voce 6.5's and put them in the front with the factory B&O Amp. Removed them and installed the Prima 8's, had much better depth and output. The Voce 6.5's went into the rear doors

To Pete's point, if you are going with an aftermarket sub and amp, the Voce6.5's are the ideal choice for the fronts, otherwise you'd likely have way too much bass with the Prima 8's.

The VOCE line is the better Audion product if going aftermarket

[Adamantium]

Can you have too much bass?

At the moment, the stock system (in my A5 cab) seems to gave a tight punchy bass. I assume that’s coming mostly from the 8s in the doors.

Surely that will be lost if going for AV6.5s?

[ccarrigan]

Anyone get noise free full range RCAs pre amp? I'm able to pull the analog connector out of the amp and tap to RCAs, but no matter what I do there's a large noise floor. Center pin in my cut off RCAs gets audio from any of the line out pins in the amp connector, but no matter where I connect the shield wire it doesn't eliminate the noise. Thanks!

[a_s-Oo4]

Oh no, I’m putting RS180’s in the front. But I’ve modelled the bracket myself so making a few tweaks to get it to fit the AP8 should be doable. Assuming I get it right for myself first.

Hey eipromb, would you be willing to share the .stl files you made for your rear brackets? I’ve been looking into making some, alas I don’t have the software for creating...

[a_s-Oo4]

15% off coupon active on eBay today, so I finally pulled the trigger on the AV3’s.

Just as a heads up, 10% eBay coupon is active today...

[Morritse]

I need an amp that fits between the spare tire and the area next to it. I know there have been a few posted here but I can't find them. Needs to be around ~600W 1 ohm.

[audigsr]

Question on Add a fuse for a remote turn on, do you have to put it in a used fuse slot? Or can I use in one of the several empty slots in that area? The add a fuse I have has two fuse holder slots: one for the original circuit fuse, and another for a new fuse for the new circuit. I'm guessing I wouldn't need the additional fuse slot if I were to use an empty slot? Also, what amp fuse would I use for the new circuit?

[grovlet]

Question on Add a fuse for a remote turn on, do you have to put it in a used fuse slot? Or can I use in one of the several empty slots in that area? The add a fuse I have has two fuse holder slots: one for the original circuit fuse, and another for a new fuse for the new circuit. I'm guessing I wouldn't need the additional fuse slot if I were to use an empty slot? Also, what amp fuse would I use for the new circuit?

I question what you are actually doing though - Remote Turn On should not come from Fuse Block.... It should come from the radio harness - so that the amp comes on with the radio only....

BUT to answer your question: You may need to fill both slots - to create a complete circuit - and fuse sizing is dependent on how many amps of draw - but if it's an empty slot there should be little to no draw there - and I doubt remote turn draws much in amps either - I would think a 20 Amp fuse in each would suffice.

I do also question if you've checked the fuse block slot is always on vs. accessory only or even powered (some are just filler spots)? You don't want your amp on 100% of the time....

[fmzip]

Can you have too much bass?

At the moment, the stock system (in my A5 cab) seems to gave a tight punchy bass. I assume that’s coming mostly from the 8s in the doors.

Surely that will be lost if going for AV6.5s?

Are you talking stock speakers? They are not 8's.

And yes, I think you could have a bass heavy system if you went with Prima 8's in the front and a powered sub in the trunk

[techracer]

https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/t750x1bd/

I have one and i'm VERY impressed with it. 1/3rd the size of my slash amp and does even better IMO.

[audigsr]

I question what you are actually doing though - Remote Turn On should not come from Fuse Block.... It should come from the radio harness - so that the amp comes on with the radio only....

BUT to answer your question: You may need to fill both slots - to create a complete circuit - and fuse sizing is dependent on how many amps of draw - but if it's an empty slot there should be little to no draw there - and I doubt remote turn draws much in amps either - I would think a 20 Amp fuse in each would suffice.

I do also question if you've checked the fuse block slot is always on vs. accessory only or even powered (some are just filler spots)? You don't want your amp on 100% of the time....

Others have tapped into the fuse box successfully for remote turn on. Just gotta make sure there's no power through it when the car is off. I think I'll use a multimeter and check the existing fuses.

Thanks for the recommendation. I'll run a 20AMP fuse, I'm guessing it doesn't matter where the fuses are placed on the add a fuse? Or is there a certain order? https://www.crutchfield.com/S-WVr1wm...dd-A-Fuse.html is the one I got for reference.

I haven't checked which fuse yet, as I ran out of time for the install over the weekend. Haven't done any wiring yet.

[mia748sp]

Others have tapped into the fuse box successfully for remote turn on. Just gotta make sure there's no power through it when the car is off. I think I'll use a multimeter and check the existing fuses.

Thanks for the recommendation. I'll run a 20AMP fuse, I'm guessing it doesn't matter where the fuses are placed on the add a fuse? Or is there a certain order? https://www.crutchfield.com/S-WVr1wm...dd-A-Fuse.html is the one I got for reference.

I haven't checked which fuse yet, as I ran out of time for the install over the weekend. Haven't done any wiring yet.

If all you're using that slot for is remote turn on, a 20A fuse is way too much. The most I would go is 5A, especially if only turning on 1 amplifier. A typical remote lead from an aftermarket radio puts out less than 1A IIRC and they can run multiple devices before needing to add a relay/diode setup to up the amperage.

Sent from my SM-T377V using Tapatalk

[Adamantium]

Are you talking stock speakers? They are not 8's.

And yes, I think you could have a bass heavy system if you went with Prima 8's in the front and a powered sub in the trunk

Did not know the stocks weren’t 8s - thanks!

Making me consider the av6s more and more although I’m reluctant to fit an additional amp.

My sub is a 12 in a small box, it’s punch that I’m trying to achieve and am thinking high efficiency 8s would provide that, with the drop coming from the sealed 12.

[fmzip]

Did not know the stocks weren’t 8s - thanks!

Making me consider the av6s more and more although I’m reluctant to fit an additional amp.

My sub is a 12 in a small box, it’s punch that I’m trying to achieve and am thinking high efficiency 8s would provide that, with the drop coming from the sealed 12.

You know, maybe the stocks were 8's.....

Photo of the stock one next to a AP8

[Morritse]

https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/t750x1bd/

I have one and i'm VERY impressed with it. 1/3rd the size of my slash amp and does even better IMO.

Decided to go a different route to try and save some $$$. Let the air out of the spare and took out that ground stud. Managed to fit my amp in that area. I have a tire inflater with me anyways.

[fmzip]

Decided to go a different route to try and save some $$$. Let the air out of the spare and took out that ground stud. Managed to fit my amp in that area. I have a tire inflater with me anyways.

I'd highly suggest keeping the power and ground copper strands unexposed, you're risk an arc/fire

[Morritse]

I'd highly suggest keeping the power and ground copper strands unexposed, you're risk an arc/fire

Good call.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

[fmzip]

Good call.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

Are you going to secure that Amp? Just noticed the cardboard wedge.... Hate to see you blow things up

[Morritse]

Are you going to secure that Amp? Just noticed the cardboard wedge.... Hate to see you blow things up

Yeah. That was a test fit to see if the trunk panel would interfere with the RCA cable.

[audigsr]

If all you're using that slot for is remote turn on, a 20A fuse is way too much. The most I would go is 5A, especially if only turning on 1 amplifier. A typical remote lead from an aftermarket radio puts out less than 1A IIRC and they can run multiple devices before needing to add a relay/diode setup to up the amperage.

Sent from my SM-T377V using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. Yeah, I would just use it for a single 300 watt amplifier (AudioControl 1.300). Do you happen to know in what order I would need to put the fuses (e.g. original fuse on the top slot and new fuse in the bottom, or vice versa). Or does it not matter.

Yeah. That was a test fit to see if the trunk panel would interfere with the RCA cable.

I recall reading an article on Crutchfield to avoid having the amp touch the car's chassis due to interference. Have you encountered any noise interference with the amp being there?

[Morritse]

I recall reading an article on Crutchfield to avoid having the amp touch the car's chassis due to interference. Have you encountered any noise interference with the amp being there?

No

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

[a_s-Oo4]

So I’ve been following this thread for a while now. I read everything in it from page 1 and finally decided to start my car audio upgrade. Might I add that there was some epically helpful information in here!!!

For the build I’ve purchased so far
x1 AudioControl EpicCenter 1200 with ACR-3 remote
x1 Pioneer TS-W260D4 Subwoofer
x2 Audison Voce 3.0 Midranges
x1 Custom Stealth Sub Enclosure

A few questions...
With this setup, would it be overkill to add a couple (or 4) Audison Prima AP8 speakers and upgrade the tweeters?
That in mind, what recommendation of tweeter use can anyone give me? I’ve heard some of the titanium tweeters are a bit too “tinny” or metallic sounding. Any knowledge of the stock tweeter RMS?
Lastly, should I stick with the idea of replacing the doors with Audison Prima AP8’s or is there another comparable option I have yet to consider?

Any insight is super appreciated!! Thank you in advance.

[fmzip]

So I’ve been following this thread for a while now. I read everything in it from page 1 and finally decided to start my car audio upgrade. Might I add that there was some epically helpful information in here!!!

For the build I’ve purchased so far
x1 AudioControl EpicCenter 1200 with ACR-3 remote
x1 Pioneer TS-W260D4 Subwoofer
x2 Audison Voce 3.0 Midranges
x1 Custom Stealth Sub Enclosure

A few questions...
With this setup, would it be overkill to add a couple (or 4) Audison Prima AP8 speakers and upgrade the tweeters?
That in mind, what recommendation of tweeter use can anyone give me? I’ve heard some of the titanium tweeters are a bit too “tinny” or metallic sounding. Any knowledge of the stock tweeter RMS?
Lastly, should I stick with the idea of replacing the doors with Audison Prima AP8’s or is there another comparable option I have yet to consider?

Any insight is super appreciated!! Thank you in advance.

Audison AP1 Prima tweeters pair with the Prima 8's

Four Prima 8's would be way too much in my opinion. Try two in the front and see how you like it to start. Being able to dial down the sub with the ARC-3 will be helpful as I think with the stock B&O amp it can be a bit much at times

[Adamantium]

Fmzip,

With my sealed JL12TW1, would you recommend removing the stock subwoofer?

I ask because I am installing an electric rear sunblind (S5 coupe), and the work involved in changing my mind is significant enough to get it right first time before actually installing the equipment.

It seems excess to me to have an amped 12, stock amped 10, and stock amped 8s in the doors. This will be made worse by putting AP8s in the doors.

[fmzip]

Fmzip,

With my sealed JL12TW1, would you recommend removing the stock subwoofer?

I ask because I am installing an electric rear sunblind (S5 coupe), and the work involved in changing my mind is significant enough to get it right first time before actually installing the equipment.

It seems excess to me to have an amped 12, stock amped 10, and stock amped 8s in the doors. This will be made worse by putting AP8s in the doors.

I would definitely remove the stock sub completely and use that as a port to get more bass in the cabin.....Need some details on retrofitting an electric sunshade, link??!!

[Strong Man]

With this setup, would it be overkill to add a couple (or 4) Audison Prima AP8 speakers and upgrade the tweeters?
That in mind, what recommendation of tweeter use can anyone give me? I’ve heard some of the titanium tweeters are a bit too “tinny” or metallic sounding. Any knowledge of the stock tweeter RMS?
Lastly, should I stick with the idea of replacing the doors with Audison Prima AP8’s or is there another comparable option I have yet to consider?

Any insight is super appreciated!! Thank you in advance.

You can use together with Audison Prima AP8 Hertz ET 26.5.

[waxxonMTL]

Quick review : I had the AP1, Voce 3 and prima 8 installed last friday. I only have about 5 hour sof break-in all stock powered. I also have jl ib10 in lieu of the stock sub all stock amp powered.

I'm happy that theres is no more rattle, muffling sound when going over 22-25ish. i can go at max volume and still hear clear.

However, that about it. I didn't really any sound enhancement, vocal/instrument I previously didn't hear well. I don't really feel much more bass neither.

I can't say my expectation was too hight neither was I come from a guy who used to build 3way active ( 3 amp) setup in older car, I know what a real system SQ could sound like.

Considering the labor I paid + cost of these speakers which is close to 1k$ cnd. I'm unsure the price was worth the ''cleaness' at high volume since it is not heathly to listen at such volume anyways haha! Maybe I feel like theres a bit more bass at 10-15 volume with the prima8. But I wouldn't remove it either. its there its there. I might go with aftermarket amp to really use the additional benefit of these audison.