The definitive stereo and subwoofer upgrade thread

[Flint]

how many of you went with the audison amp ? that could be my next move.. :)

I did. Probably depends on the sub you choose but I personally feel it is lacking in output for what it is rated. It also runs extremely hot even when only playing moderately. I could be biased as I come from a history of JL slash amplifiers.

Can’t beat the size though.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[Surfer8210]

Could anyone tell me if Alpine makes a compatible unit for my 2014 S5?
Presently I have a Concert series MMI 3G which came stock.
Or, any other recommendations for a head unit, I’d like to have car play and decent Nav.
I tried searching but 1124 posts are in this thread and I’m not sure I’m searching correctly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeteRock]

Could anyone tell me if Alpine makes a compatible unit for my 2014 S5?
Presently I have a Concert series MMI 3G which came stock.
Or, any other recommendations for a head unit, I’d like to have car play and decent Nav.
I tried searching but 1124 posts are in this thread and I’m not sure I’m searching correctly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not 100% sure if this unit is available for purchase in the US but I thought someone may have posted about it before....

https://www.alpine-electronics.se/p/...eView/X702D-A5


Pete

[waxxonMTL]

Not 100% sure if this unit is available for purchase in the US but I thought someone may have posted about it before....

https://www.alpine-electronics.se/p/...eView/X702D-A5


Pete

seems like the upgraded to Version 2 now. Surely it is tempting, but somehow, I think I would have regret loosing the OEM-look of the car. Weird feeling I know! I love ''OEM'' look, and I would hesitant to replace the single DIN slot of the B&O command for the Alpine one. If it was only the screen, I would be more interesting to do it I think. Nonetheless, PROPS to Alpine for developing a solution !

[Surfer8210]

Not 100% sure if this unit is available for purchase in the US but I thought someone may have posted about it before....

https://www.alpine-electronics.se/p/...eView/X702D-A5


Pete

Thanks Pete,
I saw that option earlier, I believe that it’s available on EBay. It needs to be ordered from Italy.
Reviews are great but I’m hoping that I’m able to find something similar to check out also. I was surprised to see that this was Alpines only offering for the S5’s, in fact they don’t even mention S5’s, just the A5.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ford Prefect]

Hey guys,

I'm at a loss so I figured the stereo experts might be able to shed the light on my issue. I have a B8 with B&O with symphony interface. I upgraded to B&O MMI 3G+, all parts, except the new used B&O amp (MOST version) came from a reputable seller. Amp from eBay. My sound for radio, media, navigation, and calls almost never works. Occasionally the display doesn't come on and the MMI stays off.

Can someone lead me in the right direction? Which unit signals the other to turn on? I believe I've read this is how it works. I have a new head unit but am starting to think thats not the issue. Is the Amp the key component for all of the sound?

Sorry to highjack, but this is getting ridiculous.

Thanks

[Drunktank]

Thanks Pete,
I saw that option earlier, I believe that it’s available on EBay. It needs to be ordered from Italy.
Reviews are great but I’m hoping that I’m able to find something similar to check out also. I was surprised to see that this was Alpines only offering for the S5’s, in fact they don’t even mention S5’s, just the A5.

The X701d, and since updated X702d are made for vehicles that didn't come with Nav (optical). My guess has always been because it isn't able to properly send the commands to the factory amp over optical. With that said, if you replace the factory amp also and use your new pre-outs, this may work. A quick call to Alpine Europe will confirm this.

This unit is one of the reasons I intentionally didn't get my car with nav or backup camera. It's fantastic.

[Cooper993]

The X701d, and since updated X702d are made for vehicles that didn't come with Nav (optical). My guess has always been because it isn't able to properly send the commands to the factory amp over optical. With that said, if you replace the factory amp also and use your new pre-outs, this may work. A quick call to Alpine Europe will confirm this.

This unit is one of the reasons I intentionally didn't get my car with nav or backup camera. It's fantastic.

Do you actually have this unit installed? If so, did you have the B&O without Nav prior?

[Drunktank]

Yes, i’ve had it installed for a couple years now, and yes, B&O without nav.

[Cooper993]

Yes, i’ve had it installed for a couple years now, and yes, B&O without nav.

That's interesting. Can you answer a few questions on the install:

• How did you get US maps on it?
• It looks like it has a separate trim piece. How does that fit since US cars have a combined airbag light/hazard switch?
• Was it plug and play or is coding required?

Thanks

[ReDeViL]

hey guys, just a quick qns.
I'm exploring moving the stock amp unit to the spare wheel, reason being to fit a custom sub woofer enclosure on the left side of the boot.
Are the stock cables long enough to facilitate this?

[PeteRock]

hey guys, just a quick qns.
I'm exploring moving the stock amp unit to the spare wheel, reason being to fit a custom sub woofer enclosure on the left side of the boot.
Are the stock cables long enough to facilitate this?

You don’t want to put it there....there’s room to relocate the amp and MMI unit to the upper driver side corner of the trunk....see below.....

IMG_0851.jpg


Pete

[ReDeViL]

You don’t want to put it there....there’s room to relocate the amp and MMI unit to the upper driver side corner of the trunk....see below.....

IMG_0851.jpg


Pete

Thanks for the guide!
Is that a custom mount? I am assuming that this is achieved via drilling into the car body?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Audizine mobile app

[PeteRock]

Thanks for the guide!
Is that a custom mount? I am assuming that this is achieved via drilling into the car body?

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Audizine mobile app

No drilling....just heavy duty double stick velcro and some dynamat in between the components and the body panels to eliminate any vibration


Pete

[ReDeViL]

No drilling....just heavy duty double stick velcro and some dynamat in between the components and the body panels to eliminate any vibration


Pete

got it!, thanks for the help!
very much appreciated.

[Drunktank]

That's interesting. Can you answer a few questions on the install:
How did you get US maps on it?
It looks like it has a separate trim piece. How does that fit since US cars have a combined airbag light/hazard switch?
Was it plug and play or is coding required?

- You just download the maps onto a laptop and upload them to the unit, it's like $50 or so.
- The US buttons are shrunk down to the size of the single EU hazards button. If you looked up the OEM part, I'm sure they would be the same #.
- Plug and play. It plugs into the canbus and takes care of everything, including your nav button now working and the hands free button functionality with Siri, etc.

This unit works with left and right hand drive, and Q5's, so the model you want is the X702D-A4L. You'll also want to get the replacement trunk handle which the camera mounts to, and get a nice 180' backup camera. If you have B&O and you want to keep that amp, you'll also need an adapter to avoid some static. This also allows you to completely remove the B&O amp without any errors.

[mrebusa]

After sifting for the last couple hours I am overwhelmed with options and needing this or that. I guess I am looking for a definitive option that would increase bass and quality over the factory B&O.

Details:
15' S4- B&O- 3G MMI

What all is needed to buy to throw in a 10" high quality sub and amp and ensure it works with all the rest of the B&O speakers (open to recommendations for sub/amp). I was planning to put it in the factory location with the dynamat on the rear deck. Sorry for the redundant question, just looking to do this right the first time.

[14S4GWM]

^ If you plan on using a high quality sub and amp then you need to mount the sub in a box in the trunk. The rear deck isn't going to cut it. You would just need an amp with line level inputs, sub, box and a amp wiring kit along with some miscellaneous connectors. You could leave the sub in the deck with it disconnected or remove it and dynamat the deck to keep it quiet.

[mrebusa]

^ If you plan on using a high quality sub and amp then you need to mount the sub in a box in the trunk. The rear deck isn't going to cut it. You would just need an amp with line level inputs, sub, box and a amp wiring kit along with some miscellaneous connectors. You could leave the sub in the deck with it disconnected or remove it and dynamat the deck to keep it quiet.

Thank you for the answer, I think I'll end up doing the box as you suggested. What is the sub of choice folks are using these days?

[techracer]

Does anyone make 3d printed or otherwise custom adapters for the AP8s or something similar that would work?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine mobile app

[techracer]

Does anyone make 3d printed or otherwise custom adapters for the AP8s or something similar that would work?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine mobile app

Anyone?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine mobile app

[Strong Man]

Anyone?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine mobile app

I don't understand why you're looking for 3-d printer etc. Two peaces of wood, wood glue, Jigsaw and 30 minutes of the job . That's all what you need.

[Drunktank]

Thank you for the answer, I think I'll end up doing the box as you suggested. What is the sub of choice folks are using these days?

I've used a JL 8" (great compliment for an otherwise factory stereo and can overpower it) and now a 10" Audison since I have upgrades the rest of my speakers to keep up. Volume requirements were a big factor in both decisions.

[Leviathan05]

Can anyone comment with any degree of certainty whether or not adding a sub and amp will introduce some delay in the subwoofer response? That is, does the sub hit a few ms later than the factory set up?

If so, is it significantly noticeable? I'm used to tinkering with time alignment/signal delay on my old setup, and if it is noticeable I feel like I'd be annoyed since I couldn't change it.

Otherwise I'm just going to start by replacing the factory sub which is already time-aligned with the rest of the system. A DSP is the step after that but, you know, $$$.

[gamatt]

Can anyone comment with any degree of certainty whether or not adding a sub and amp will introduce some delay in the subwoofer response? That is, does the sub hit a few ms later than the factory set up?

If so, is it significantly noticeable? I'm used to tinkering with time alignment/signal delay on my old setup, and if it is noticeable I feel like I'd be annoyed since I couldn't change it.

Otherwise I'm just going to start by replacing the factory sub which is already time-aligned with the rest of the system. A DSP is the step after that but, you know, $$$.

Me neither and so far I have left the stock system completely as it was, for me the sub just seamlessly enhances and extends the bass response. I have a 10" Polk sub in a sealed "truck" box and a Kicker 150W amp.

[cspcrx]

never noticed a delay or an odd sound

[Drunktank]

Anyone?

Sounds like you're on your own. That kind of thing really wouldn't get enough volume to make the project worth it, and people would just complain if they were $99.
Time to grab your router and circle jig!

[cybernet99]

Router, circle jig and some plastic. Done in a couple hours.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[techracer]

I like the plastic option, where do you source it?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine mobile app

[cybernet99]

I like the plastic option, where do you source it?

I got it from a local plastics supplier. I forget what it is called but think of cutting board plastics, that's what it is made of. (it's NOT ABS or Acrylic) I made a template out of 1/4" MDF, then used that to cut the plastics with the router. The plastic is made up of two pieces, one 1/4" and one 1" piece. Because of the type of plastic it is, it needs to be screwed together, glue won't hold it. If you do this with a router, be slow with the depth. The 1" piece I had to take multiple passes around as the bit was trying to take to take chunks out of it if I tried to take too much off on a single pass. Take your time and it's easy to do a good job.

I used plastic, since MDF will get wet, (it's inside a door) and it will swell and ruin over time. The plastic will not deteriorate.

[fmzip]

I got it from a local plastics supplier. I forget what it is called but think of cutting board plastics, that's what it is made of. (it's NOT ABS or Acrylic) I made a template out of 1/4" MDF, then used that to cut the plastics with the router. The plastic is made up of two pieces, one 1/4" and one 1" piece. Because of the type of plastic it is, it needs to be screwed together, glue won't hold it. If you do this with a router, be slow with the depth. The 1" piece I had to take multiple passes around as the bit was trying to take to take chunks out of it if I tried to take too much off on a single pass. Take your time and it's easy to do a good job.

I used plastic, since MDF will get wet, (it's inside a door) and it will swell and ruin over time. The plastic will not deteriorate.

Nice work!

[cybernet99]

Thanks @fmzip! I'm in no rush, so want to take my time doing each of the pieces so I have no regrets when it is completely finished. I also want it to be of high enough quality that I would be able to compete in Car Audio competitions and do very well.

[techracer]

If I had dimensions I'd 3d print some from a friend's printer. I am looking to put AP8s in the front since I'm using the stock amp

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine mobile app

[paulxxwall]

What ohms are the factory concert speakers? Looking to replace them soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[BillyS4]

Not sure if i read this Correctly. I can disconnect my B&O Sub and connect the wires directly to my Sealed Box? Sorry if this is a stupid question. A lot of information going on here. Great Thread!

[audigsr]

Not sure if i read this Correctly. I can disconnect my B&O Sub and connect the wires directly to my Sealed Box? Sorry if this is a stupid question. A lot of information going on here. Great Thread!

If you're implying straight to a sub in a box, you technically could. But most likely it will be under powered, depending on the sub you're using. Generally to get proper power you need to wire to a signal processor and then to your amp or get an amp with both built in.

[techracer]

In theory yes, but it likely won't sound good and will be underpowered.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine mobile app

[BillyS4]

In theory yes, but it likely won't sound good and will be underpowered.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine mobile app

Got it. Thanks for the Reply

[dkmesa]

Thanks to this thread, I installed Dayton RS75-4 in the dash of my non-B&O system today. Contemplating adding some Polk tweeters I have in the garage or OEM B&O tweeters to the sail panels, and will likely add a sub. Debating a pre-fab box or building my own fiberglass for the right side.

[dkmesa]

Thanks to this thread, I installed Dayton RS75-4 in the dash of my non-B&O system today. Contemplating adding some Polk tweeters I have in the garage or OEM B&O tweeters to the sail panels, and will likely add a sub. Debating a pre-fab box or building my own fiberglass for the right side.

For anyone looking to upgrade their dash speakers, Metra 82-4201 worked great with a little but of dremel trimming.