The definitive stereo and subwoofer upgrade thread

[cspcrx]

Are the rear deck speakers, not the free air sub, getting full signal as well to the speaker? I thought I read somewhere they did but the rear doors did.

[fmzip]

I believe all the speakers get full signal and where needed, capacitors are used as the crossovers

[Dobbler]

I believe all the speakers get full signal and where needed, capacitors are used as the crossovers

Can't speak for all speakers, but my installer tested the signal for the sub and it was full-range on my 2014 with B&O.

[BKE]

I can only speak about the B&O system, but all it's outs were full signal. The tweeter had a capacitor soldered on to protect it. At the same time, it could be different though because the B&O tweeter shares the woofer speaker wire... I probably didn't help at all there..

Anyway, you could always remove the dash tweeters to see if there's a cap attached. That should give you a good idea.

I read in one of the install posts that the cap is in the connector at the woofer. Measurements at the connector may be the best approach.

[fmzip]

I read in one of the install posts that the cap is in the connector at the woofer. Measurements at the connector may be the best approach.

I can check both the B&O and stock A4 door speakers since I have both. Can you guide me as to what I should be doing with a meter to check it?

[cspcrx]

I recall someone saying the sub signal to the rear deck was not full range. As a result some people were going to the door speaker wires for signal for aftermarket subs.

[BKE]

I can check both the B&O and stock A4 door speakers since I have both. Can you guide me as to what I should be doing with a meter to check it?

If I recall correctly it is measured in ohms, connect a multimeter to the positive wire on each side of the connector if there is a reading there is a cap, Otherwise it will be 0.

If you have the door speakers out measure the impedance, I am curious. I measured the sub and it is 7.1 ohms, and the dash speakers are 3.6 ohms versus the labeling 8 and 4 ohms respectively.

[fmzip]

If I recall correctly it is measured in ohms, connect a multimeter to the positive wire on each side of the connector if there is a reading there is a cap, Otherwise it will be 0.

If you have the door speakers out measure the impedance, I am curious. I measured the sub and it is 7.1 ohms, and the dash speakers are 3.6 ohms versus the labeling 8 and 4 ohms respectively.

I will do that this evening, I'll measure the B&O sub as well.

So I asked my test engineer, he said to measure resistance across both leads in "ohms" as you suggested. That will determine if it's a 4 ohm 8 ohm speaker etc. He wasn't aware of how to take a measurement or what it would read if a capacitor was across the leads, my multimeter doesn't measure capacitance

[fmzip]

Here are the measurements for all the speakers I have:

B&O Front Door 3.6 Ohms
B&O Rear Door 3.6 Ohms
B&O Dash Speaker 3.6 Ohms

A4 Front Door 2.0 Ohms (Blown?)
A4 Rear Door 3.5 Ohms

B&O Subwoofer 7.2 Ohms

None of them have capacitors that I can see. All measure the same at the connector and also on the speaker side.

[Wreckm]

So i have a non B&O system and need to replace subwoofer. Just going to replace with the standard stock one. Only question is i am finding only B&O subwoofers. Is there a non B&O sub part number someone might have.

[fmzip]

So i have a non B&O system and need to replace subwoofer. Just going to replace with the standard stock one. Only question is i am finding only B&O subwoofers. Is there a non B&O sub part number someone might have.

8t0035412


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...fer/8t0035412/

[jetfixr07]

After a ton of research and endless forum post reading, I recently performed this subwoofer upgrade. I went a slightly different route component-wise, but I'm pretty happy with the end result, which caters to my personal preferences with regard to the music I like to listen to. I tried to take as many pics of relevant/noteworthy items unique to this installation, and I'm happy to answer any questions! I'll try to avoid rambling, so here's the gear I used:

-Pioneer GM-D7500M Mono amp
-Planet Audio 2 Farad capacitor
-Audio Control LC2i line output converter (with optional ACR1 remote level control)
-Kicker 40CWD104 Comp D 10" sub

Items of interest:

-The 2 farad cap is admittedly huge overkill.....but at $28 I thought it might help to spare the car's electrical system when the stereo is cranked. Plus the digital voltage display is cool to look at:

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0537.jpg

-I used the LC2i based on the overwhelmingly good reviews and features, especially the "GTO-Great Turn On" feature, which powers up the unit (and therefore the amp) when it senses an audio signal from the stereo. In theory this means I wouldn't need to find a +12vdc switched power wire since the unit should wake up the second the car is started. Well, it didn't work out that way. For whatever reason, that feature didn't work and I had to track down a switched +12vdc wire after all and run it to the LOC. I found some switched power at the fuse panel in the right (passenger) side of the trunk. Also, you might wonder why I used 1" spacers when mounting the LOC to the middle equipment rack in the left side of the trunk. It was done with cooling in mind. I wasn't sure how hot the LOC would get and I didn't want to melt the plastic tray:

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0552.jpg

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0553.jpg

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0109.jpg

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0579.jpg

-I made my own ground studs for the big 4AWG amp/capacitor cables. This meant I could keep the ground cable run short and had grounds dedicated to the amp to ensure there wouldn't be any interference. I wanted to avoid drilling holes in the car but made an exception for these studs:

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0568.jpg

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0571.jpg

In the end I'm pretty satisfied with how it turned out. Though not pictured, I bought a roll of 80 mil sound deadening matting which worked great in reducing rattles.....I found a 10-square foot roll for $21 on Amazon....much cheaper than Dynamat but did the job.

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0532.jpg

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0569.jpg

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0574.jpg

More miscellaneous pics... the first one isn't great but shows where I mounted the remote sub level control knob which connects to the LC2i. The cable for that was the longest run I had to make for the entire project...

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0744.jpg

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0570.jpg

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0538.jpg

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/att...e-img_0101.jpg

[fmzip]

Your post with pics, nice job!

Nice job! Can I ask, how did you remove the driverside trunk liner? It looks like you have to take off the trunk lid as the hinge goes through the liner? Also it looks to be wrapped around the rear seat?

=jetfixr07;12823303]After a ton of research and endless forum post reading, I recently performed this subwoofer upgrade. I went a slightly different route component-wise, but I'm pretty happy with the end result, which caters to my personal preferences with regard to the music I like to listen to. I tried to take as many pics of relevant/noteworthy items unique to this installation, and I'm happy to answer any questions! I'll try to avoid rambling, so here's the gear I used:

-Pioneer GM-D7500M Mono amp
-Planet Audio 2 Farad capacitor
-Audio Control LC2i line output converter (with optional ACR1 remote level control)
-Kicker 40CWD104 Comp D 10" sub

Items of interest:

-The 2 farad cap is admittedly huge overkill.....but at $28 I thought it might help to spare the car's electrical system when the stereo is cranked. Plus the digital voltage display is cool to look at:



-I used the LC2i based on the overwhelmingly good reviews and features, especially the "GTO-Great Turn On" feature, which powers up the unit (and therefore the amp) when it senses an audio signal from the stereo. In theory this means I wouldn't need to find a +12vdc switched power wire since the unit should wake up the second the car is started. Well, it didn't work out that way. For whatever reason, that feature didn't work and I had to track down a switched +12vdc wire after all and run it to the LOC. I found some switched power at the fuse panel in the right (passenger) side of the trunk. Also, you might wonder why I used 1" spacers when mounting the LOC to the middle equipment rack in the left side of the trunk. It was done with cooling in mind. I wasn't sure how hot the LOC would get and I didn't want to melt the plastic tray:









-I made my own ground studs for the big 4AWG amp/capacitor cables. This meant I could keep the ground cable run short and had grounds dedicated to the amp to ensure there wouldn't be any interference. I wanted to avoid drilling holes in the car but made an exception for these studs:





In the end I'm pretty satisfied with how it turned out. Though not pictured, I bought a roll of 80 mil sound deadening matting which worked great in reducing rattles.....I found a 10-square foot roll for $21 on Amazon....much cheaper than Dynamat but did the job.







More miscellaneous pics... the first one isn't great but shows where I mounted the remote sub level control knob which connects to the LC2i. The cable for that was the longest run I had to make for the entire project...

[doug97gxe]

Capacitors are useless and mostly for show.. they are suppose to power your amp on when the voltage dips with a short burst of power.. however if you're lights are not dimming you don't need a cap.. i've ran 3000 watts and didn't need a cap.. they do however look pretty though

[jetfixr07]

Your post with pics, nice job!

Nice job! Can I ask, how did you remove the driverside trunk liner? It looks like you have to take off the trunk lid as the hinge goes through the liner? Also it looks to be wrapped around the rear seat?

Thanks!! Actually it was a lot easier than I guess it must look. There's a slot in both the left and right sides of trunk liner to facilitate removal without removing the trunk lid. The liner is held in place by the standard assortment of plastic trim hardware. As for the rear seat(s), not sure what you're seeing there.....once folded down it made accessing the parcel shelf easier from the rear cabin, but the trunk liner stops short of attaching to/wrapping around the seats.

[fmzip]

Thanks!! Actually it was a lot easier than I guess it must look. There's a slot in both the left and right sides of trunk liner to facilitate removal without removing the trunk lid. The liner is held in place by the standard assortment of plastic trim hardware. As for the rear seat(s), not sure what you're seeing there.....once folded down it made accessing the parcel shelf easier from the rear cabin, but the trunk liner stops short of attaching to/wrapping around the seats.

I had to go out to the garage to look......

Thanks for pointing this out, had me baffled when I looked at, now I see the slit:

[BKE]

Jetfixer07, thank you for sharing I have a few new ideas as I travel down the amp upgrade road.

Question, when you were looking for the amp placement did it fit on top of the parcel shelf? I am looking to be as stealth as possible but within the limits of practical.

[fmzip]

Jetfixer07, thank you for sharing I have a few new ideas as I travel down the amp upgrade road.

Question, when you were looking for the amp placement did it fit on top of the parcel shelf? I am looking to be as stealth as possible but within the limits of practical.

There is no room to fit an amp on the parcel shelf

[BKE]

There is no room to fit an amp on the parcel shelf

Drat, that would have been optimal. If I am unable to park it into the stereo system compartment then it will be under the parcel shelf.

[BKE]

I was was working on the bump in the 40hz range and after speaking with Acoustic Elegance, I wired the sub in series (16 ohm) vs parallel (4 ohm) and the improvement was exceptional, see below.
[IMG][/IMG]

If anyone is on the fence about replacing the stock dashboard mids with the audison’s take a look at the 2 measurements below, specifically above 200hz; these are near field measurements. I didn’t change the signal so the sub leaks through.

Stock Center
[IMG][/IMG]

Audison Voce


Now I need an amp, any suggestions? I love the current balance so I am a bit reluctant to add anything, in addition the sub is extremely efficient, AE cautioned me against adding power that exceeds 100 watts. A challenge to find something that works with all of the other items.

[fmzip]

Now I need an amp, any suggestions? I love the current balance so I am a bit reluctant to add anything, in addition the sub is extremely efficient, AE cautioned me against adding power that exceeds 100 watts. A challenge to find something that works with all of the other items.

I was considering the Audison AP8.9 for the entire system. Based on your data level, I think an amp like this would be ideal for you

https://w221audio.wordpress.com/2015...-audio-system/

[BKE]

I was considering the Audison AP8.9 for the entire system. Based on your data level, I think an amp like this would be ideal for you

https://w221audio.wordpress.com/2015...-audio-system/

Thanks for this, a great read. I think you are correct, my inner audio geek will never stop playing with things and this feeds it relatively well.

[fmzip]

Thanks for this, a great read. I think you are correct, my inner audio geek will never stop playing with things and this feeds it relatively well.

If you decide to tackle this, please be so kind to take some pictures and write up a DIY. I think I could install the amp, not sure about tuning it properly. I may pass this off to my audio shop if I indeed go this route. I have to say, the clarity, depth and added bass may make me leave well enough alone. The AP8's really added quite a bit more to the system.

However, I am always at level 26 on the volume knob, I know more power would be ideal!

[Strong Man]

The AP8's really added quite a bit more to the system.

However, I am always at level 26 on the volume knob, I know more power would be ideal!

Before you moved into AP8 which volume level did you use ?

[fmzip]

Before you moved into AP8 which volume level did you use ?

I think what I am trying to say, it sounds so good when I am jamming out, I know that the speakers can handle more power.

I want to listen to it louder because I'm more drawn into the experience, makes sense? I've run out of volume since I bought the car, hence the tinkering.

[Strong Man]

fmzip I got your point Man :)

[Dobbler]

Finally did the Voce 3.0 upgrade with the set I ordered last month. Very nice upgrade for the money!

[Strong Man]

Finally did the Voce 3.0 upgrade with the set I ordered last month. Very nice upgrade for the money!

me too :)))) just today...I haven't had chance to listen for them for a long time , but the first 5 minutes showed huge improvement in the a sound stage and sound detailing.

SQ...fCK&*)( disease :)))) started to think about AP8 ...fmzip...it's all because of you :))))

[fmzip]

Finally did the Voce 3.0 upgrade with the set I ordered last month. Very nice upgrade for the money!

So happy to hear it!

[CardFan]

I've been looking for that EXACT same sub!

This has had some highly regarded reviews too:

http://aespeakers.com/shop/ibau-woofers/ib10au/

I am using that sub and it is fantastic; dead flat from 15hz to 100hz at 90db use REW as the measurements system. I have it mounted in the stock location facing into the cabin with dynomat on the deck as the only modification. Stock amp as well as this thing is insanely efficient.

2 unrelated questions.

1) any feedback or experiences with the image dynamics components and coaxial speakers?
2) advice on 4 and 5 channel amplifiers.

I have used the search engine and read the majority of the posts and the themes are a bit pricey.

Any feedback or questions are welcome.

BKE, are you using the AE sub? I picked one up and it doesn’t quite fit, so assuming you are wondering what you chose to trim to get it to fit?



Sent from my iPad using Audizine

[fmzip]

BKE, are you using the AE sub? I picked one up and it doesn’t quite fit, so assuming you are wondering what you chose to trim to get it to fit?



Sent from my iPad using Audizine

Test fit to see if the rear shelf would go over it if it were to sit just as it is. If so, build it up with some mdf/plywood?

[Dobbler]

Test fit to see if the rear shelf would go over it if it were to sit just as it is. If so, build it up with some mdf/plywood?

That's not gonna fit...

[BKE]

I trimmed the shelf and added a plastic ring (cutting board) to increase clearance. I made sure the stock sub fit without gaps so I can return to stock when I trade it in for a new car.

[fmzip]

I trimmed the shelf and added a plastic ring (cutting board) to increase clearance. I made sure the stock sub fit without gaps so I can return to stock when I trade it in for a new car.

What did you use to cut it with the window being so close??

[BKE]

What did you use to cut it with the window being so close??

I used a dremel from below

[Strong Man]

Will do. I'm going to dynamat the trunk lid when I get home and put it back together. Might need a couple more pictures then I'll write something up for both the trunk lid and the trunk itself.

Guys,
I'm trying to locate the DIY for trunk lid. Anyone knows where is it?

[Strong Man]

Got it . No help need :))) thanks

[BKE]

All, quick question on sub amp installation; how should I connect the high level output to the 2 channel amplifier inputs for bridged mono output mode?
I was thinking to connect the amplifiers sub positive to the left and right positive inputs and the negative to the left and right negative inputs. I hope this makes sense.

BKE

[Strong Man]

All, quick question on sub amp installation; how should I connect the high level output to the 2 channel amplifier inputs for bridged mono output mode?

there is no connection between high level apm inputs (it's your high level output) and which mode your apm works. Mode of amp in 99% is function of two things : a) some switch on amp which can change the mode from regular to bridge , and b) most common one - the way how you connect your speakes or sub to power outputs. I'm pretty sure that for two channel amp you need to connect your sub : "+" sub to + right channel power output , "-" sub to "-" left channel power output


But the best way to make it right it RTFM :)

[BKE]

Ha, I was looking at it in reverse; how to wire the B&O amp out to the external amp inputs vs the external amp to the sub. Given the new amp doesn’t have a switch it must be option 2.

Thanks, a brain freeze on my part.