low oil pressure icon on instrument cluter

[refueler]

I was driving my 2002 1.8 this past week when the low oil pressure icon came on. I pulled over listened to the engine idle for a few seconds shut it down and checked the oil which was fine. I restarted the engine and let it idle for a while it sounded fine I brought the RPMs up to 2000 and held it 30 sec or so with no abnormal noises so I drove it home about 5 miles. About 1/2 way home the icon went out but after a mile so it came back on. So I parked the car and waited for warmer weather which I got this morning. I connected my vag com the car so that I could read the oil pressure. The only oil pressure that I could find was in the instrument section and the only thing I could get from that was switch 2 ok. I started reading posts about low oil pressure being caused by the oil pump suction screen being clogged. So seeing as I have time I took the oil pan off and there was some debris on the screen maybe covered about 15% of the screen. I don't think that would cause low oil pressure. I'm in need of some help in diagnosing my low oil pressure problem. I'm not sure how to trouble shoot this problem. Is there a test or inspection that I can do to see if the oil pump is the problem? The motor runs very good and has no noises so if anyone has any suggestions I would be happy to try them.

[Pswish]

To know for sure, you would need a oil pressure tester like VAG 1342. However, a defective switch is first up on the troubleshooting list:

Disconnect wire from oil pressure switch.
Connect VAG 1342 or similar
LED should light up at 1.2 to 1.6 bar
If LED does not light up, replace oil pressure switch.

1. Check the wiring on the oil pressure switch, replace if defective 06A919081J (or similar).
2. Inspect Pressure relief valve, replace if defective
3. Replace oil pump 17-27 if defective.

[refueler]

After getting the kids home from school I decided to take a look at the oil pan as I just set it aside after getting it out. There was about 1/2 of a cup of oil in the pan. So I started to put it into my recycled oil bucket and I noticed a few chunks of plastic in the bottom of the pan. I stopped and got a small screen to pour the oil through and after draining the oil from the pan there was about a tablespoon full of orange plastic pieces plus a lot of finer stuff in the remaining oil. That I believe would be enough to clog the pick up tube screen. I'm thinking that all that plastic debris must be coming from the cam tensioner. Anybody have any other thoughts on this.

[blitz2190]

After getting the kids home from school I decided to take a look at the oil pan as I just set it aside after getting it out. There was about 1/2 of a cup of oil in the pan. So I started to put it into my recycled oil bucket and I noticed a few chunks of plastic in the bottom of the pan. I stopped and got a small screen to pour the oil through and after draining the oil from the pan there was about a tablespoon full of orange plastic pieces plus a lot of finer stuff in the remaining oil. That I believe would be enough to clog the pick up tube screen. I'm thinking that all that plastic debris must be coming from the cam tensioner. Anybody have any other thoughts on this.

orange plastic is from the dipstick tube, they disintegrate at this age, fairly easy to replace, and I would suggest a new pickup tube/screen and a dipstick tube as its not very expensive.

[refueler]

I will take a look at the dip stick tube I didn't think about that. thanks

[old guy]

I will take a look at the dip stick tube I didn't think about that. thanks

Clicky click®

[Charles.waite]

Pipe cleaner thingy is a must! Best tip ever.

[refueler]

I went back out cleaned the oil off of the larger pieces and they are tan in color not orange. Some of the pieces are about 5/16" in dia and about a 1/4" thick. If I remember correctly I replaced the dip stick about 2yrs ago when I put the new tb kit, head and gasket on the motor. So I think that I'm back to taking a look at the plastic guide on the cam tensioner as the source of the debris.

[rocket1420]

I went back out cleaned the oil off of the larger pieces and they are tan in color not orange. Some of the pieces are about 5/16" in dia and about a 1/4" thick. If I remember correctly I replaced the dip stick about 2yrs ago when I put the new tb kit, head and gasket on the motor. So I think that I'm back to taking a look at the plastic guide on the cam tensioner as the source of the debris.

Tan is cam chain tensioner shoes. They are about $5 on eBay. Old Guy has the link but I can find them if you need, I bought a set about a year ago. Easy to replace, just some work to get to.

You obviously need to replace the oil pickup tube too.

[ozMatt]

Heaps of info in this thread should you need to check the oil pump and associated components. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...leshooting-DIY

[Pswish]

x 2

[jacobsen]

Just FYI there is a port on the top of the oil filter housing in which you can insert an oil pressure gauge if you'd like to. Therefore you don't have to remove your oil pressure sendor. That's how I tested mine. I bought a harbor freight tester and drove around with thegauge held to the windshield by the wiper. other cockamamie ideas you can do are fill the crankcase with zep purple degreaser and water 1 gallon of each. unplug your injectors and your coil packs and turn the car over repeatedly every once in a while. That will dissolve Coke build up in your galleries . It's kind of a frantic measure if you had a serious coke buildup problem. Or you could try filling your crankcase with diesel fuel or kerosene and doing the same procedure you could look this up for hell of a lot longer and what you would have some lubricating properties so you can start and run the motor for a minute or two maybe throwing a dash of transmission fluid while you're at it.

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[refueler]

The internals of the oil pan and bottom end of the block was only slightly discolored, the discoloration had no depth. After reading the info in the link that ozMatt supplied I have a better understanding of the engine lubrication system now(thanks ozMatt). Hey rocket1420 if you can find the tensioner shoes it looks like I'll need them. I'll see if I can find them on ebay in the mean time thanks for the help. I ordered the stuff that I need to reinstall the oil pan I'll address the tensioner after that.

[rocket1420]

Recommended sealant (for both oil pans and valve cover)
Reinz 1161059.

Audi VW 1.8L 1.8T Turbo Timing Camshaft Chain Tensioner Shoe Pads - 2PCS (Pair)

[refueler]

Oil pan and pick up tube cleaned and reinstalled. It seems to have solved the low pressure issue drove about 100 mi. today. I parked on fresh packed snow and after about an hour I backed up with no evidence of leakage. The parts are on the way to replace the cam tensioner shoes, see how that goes ought to be an adventure.

[rocket1420]

Oil pan and pick up tube cleaned and reinstalled. It seems to have solved the low pressure issue drove about 100 mi. today. I parked on fresh packed snow and after about an hour I backed up with no evidence of leakage. The parts are on the way to replace the cam tensioner shoes, see how that goes ought to be an adventure.

It's nowhere near as difficult as the oil pan.

You have two options: remove both cams, which necessitates a timing belt removal (easy on mine since I don't have the hydraulic tensioner, harder for you if you do), or just take out the intake cam and hope for the best. You have to remove the whole tensioner because there's a shoe on the bottom as well.

You will need (a) new cam seal(s), and might as well replace the cam chain tensioner gasket, along with the valve cover gasket.

[Matt Devo]

It's nowhere near as difficult as the oil pan.

You have two options: remove both cams, which necessitates a timing belt removal (easy on mine since I don't have the hydraulic tensioner, harder for you if you do), or just take out the intake cam and hope for the best. You have to remove the whole tensioner because there's a shoe on the bottom as well.

You will need (a) new cam seal(s), and might as well replace the cam chain tensioner gasket, along with the valve cover gasket.

easily done by removing only the intake cam and the rearmost 2 cam covers on the exhaust cam, and loosening the other 3. BTDT more times than I can count

[Charles.waite]

Only done it once but it's really easy. Took me less than 2 hours and I'm a slow worker.

[refueler]

Looking forward to getting started but seeing as I'm not very smart I forgot to order the cam seals. Looks like I might have to put it off for a few more days until I get the seals. Thanks for the advice.

[refueler]

Well I finished the cam tensioner gasket replacement with no leaks. I have said several times that I'm not very smart. I left the key on and ran the battery flat now I can only start the engine by charging the battery or using another car to jump it. I ran the car for an 1/2 hr and it wouldn't start after shutting it off but could be started with a jump. I also broke the plastic elbow between the air pump metal pipes. I tried a temporary fix until I can get the part, but I think it just blocked the air pump. Now when the car is idling the idle oscillates between 750 and 800 RPM it didn't do that before. So I'm trying to figure out if its the low battery, air pump problem or did I screw up the tensioner job. The engine runs fine except the idle any one have any ideas love to hear them thanks

[jacobsen]

Lol fuck. It's probably the air pump. But secondly I guess the battery could have something to do with it. I'm pretty sure it's the vacuum part of it.

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[old guy]

A leak in the SAI hoses isn't going to cause an issue with the idle. The SAI isn't connected to the.intake air stream. The first thing that I would recommend doing is a throttle body reset.

[Charles.waite]

A vacuum leak can result in a fluctuating idle as well.

[refueler]

Thanks I will start with those two things and I do need another battery. I had a friend that had Passat at a local mechanic and after replacing the head gasket and tb it would start but wouldn't stay running. The mechanic is old school and didn't have any experience German cars. I used my vcds to read the fault codes one of the possible causes was a bad battery. I had noticed that he had a battery charger hooked up. So I asked him about the battery he said it was no good. We installed a new battery the car started up and kept running. He stood there looking at the car running shaking his head. He said I've been a mechanic for 30 yrs. and I've have never seen anything like this. I'm going to buy a new battery because my A4 is my snow car and they are talking about the possibility of a foot of snow tomorrow night. thanks again

[refueler]

I removed the battery and took it to the local auto parts store and had them test the battery. The voltage was 12.7 volts and the cranking amps was 660 out of the 690 that was specified on the battery. They told me that the battery was good. So I came home reinstalled the battery and continued trouble shooting. I checked the alternator output voltage and it was 14.1 volts. Because it does not appear that the alternator is charging the battery. The red battery light is not on so I don't know if the alternator is charging or not. If I try to start the engine by just turning the key it will turn over but not start. If I connect jumper cables it will start or if I hook up the battery charger and charge the battery it will start and it runs fine. I have run the engine for over 1/2 hr and when the engine is shut off and I try to restart the engine it will turn over but not restart. While trying to start the engine after shutting it off it turns over, I think a little slower than normal, but will not start on its own. If you jump start it with the jumper cables it will start. So being that I'm not very smart I think I need some help. There isn't much left in the starting circuit other than the starter. Does these symptoms sound like a problem with the starter.

[Kevin C]

The battery's ground cable connects to the block and the chassis are both lugs bolted down?

[refueler]

I will check thank you

[rocket1420]

Thanks I will start with those two things and I do need another battery. I had a friend that had Passat at a local mechanic and after replacing the head gasket and tb it would start but wouldn't stay running. The mechanic is old school and didn't have any experience German cars. I used my vcds to read the fault codes one of the possible causes was a bad battery. I had noticed that he had a battery charger hooked up. So I asked him about the battery he said it was no good. We installed a new battery the car started up and kept running. He stood there looking at the car running shaking his head. He said I've been a mechanic for 30 yrs. and I've have never seen anything like this. I'm going to buy a new battery because my A4 is my snow car and they are talking about the possibility of a foot of snow tomorrow night. thanks again

I'm really confused by this story. A car that won't stay running is usually because of a bad alternator. So of course if you put in a good fresh battery it will run on its own for awhile, but not forever. This guy has never seen that in 30 years?

[rocket1420]

I removed the battery and took it to the local auto parts store and had them test the battery. The voltage was 12.7 volts and the cranking amps was 660 out of the 690 that was specified on the battery. They told me that the battery was good. So I came home reinstalled the battery and continued trouble shooting. I checked the alternator output voltage and it was 14.1 volts. Because it does not appear that the alternator is charging the battery. The red battery light is not on so I don't know if the alternator is charging or not. If I try to start the engine by just turning the key it will turn over but not start. If I connect jumper cables it will start or if I hook up the battery charger and charge the battery it will start and it runs fine. I have run the engine for over 1/2 hr and when the engine is shut off and I try to restart the engine it will turn over but not restart. While trying to start the engine after shutting it off it turns over, I think a little slower than normal, but will not start on its own. If you jump start it with the jumper cables it will start. So being that I'm not very smart I think I need some help. There isn't much left in the starting circuit other than the starter. Does these symptoms sound like a problem with the starter.

I'm even more confused by this story. The battery certainly seems good. I suspect the 690 spec is maximum output. If the alternator is putting out 14.1 volts, that should be good too. How did you measure this output?

When you jump the car, are you connecting the ground lead to the battery or a good ground elsewhere in the car?

I'd probably start by measuring the resistance (ohms) between the negative battery terminal and the valve cover. Should be relatively close to zero.

[jacobsen]

Okay so you want to follow the terminals from the battery and clean the lugs and coat them with dielectric grease and reattach them. As long as the attaching services are scuffed and cleaned you should be able to rule out resistance from corrosion.

You should also check your spark plug and injector harnesses for cracking and shorting. Hook up a vacuum gauge and see if your vacuum is steady and holding.

If your alternator is putting out 14.1 volts but you're only in the twelves on your battery it sounds like your battery is bad. You might have a bad cell in your battery then you should replace it. Hook up a multimeter and drive the car watch your voltage as you drive on and off the gas idling and engine braking. You could do the same to your alternator. Try putting your spark plugs in your coil boots sticking up in the air will you turn the motor over and Visually look at the spark that they make.

When you jump start a car you should not attach then negative cable to the battery but someplace on the ground of the chassis or motor block. You can overheat and damage a cell by connecting them directly. Walmart h8 battery is 110 bucks.

It sounds like your starter is okay, it sounds like you have enough juice to rotate the motor over but not enough to throw significant Spark in the cylinders. I used to drive a Ranger and that thing would turn over beautifully but not start when the battery was low. However you do say that the motor is turning over slower than normal?

Try this. Attach your jumper cables from your auxiliary battery without the other car running. Now you'll have two batteries connected to one car. If the car starts then I think you know you have a bad cell in your battery. Did you try swapping out batteries from another vehicle with a known good battery? This would also solve this question. If you can attach a good battery to the car and it starts and runs fine but doesn't run good or doesn't start after a period of driving and letting it sit off. Then you basically know your alternator is not charging you're a juice box. It's possible your juice boxes bad or your generator it's bad.
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[Chemmie]

If your alternator is putting out 14.1 volts but you're only in the twelves on your battery it sounds like your battery is bad. You might have a bad cell in your battery then you should replace it.

Absolute poppycock. The alternator must always output greater voltage than the terminal voltage of the battery to ensure there's a current flowing INTO the battery. Alternator output of 14.1V is good, battery voltage as tested @ 12.7V is good.

Terminal voltage is greater than emf whilst the battery is charging, according to (emf - V) = IR. If you substitute in appropriate numbers, you'll find a -ve value for I, current, indicating electrons flowing INTO the system. This is assuming for our purposes that -ve resistance does not exist and as we're not working with MOSFETs or electronic oscillators, I think this is a safe assumption.

The best method to find the health of a battery is to determine the internal resistance. You can do this with knowledge of Ohm's law and a good resistor. If you wanted to try this on a car battery, you'd need a well-made resistor, and a high-wattage one at that. Most resistors have a wide tolerance on resistance- this is exactly what the coloured bands on the outside denote. The last band is for tolerance on the overall resistance; there are many online resistor colour charts, but suffice it to say the tighter the tolerance the more accurate value you'll get out of the equation that follows. A purple band being acceptable comes to mind. For the Watts, use at least 10. Remember, a Watt is 1 Amp @ 1 Volt, and is a unit of power. 10-15 Watts for this method should be plenty.

V = IR, V/I = R, where V is voltage, R resistance and I current in Amps.

Using a known good voltage source like a battery charger, run your precision resistor in series with the +ve clamp and +ve terminal of the battery and simply connect the -ve clamp of charger to battery. Measure voltage across the battery terminals. Write down this value, V1.

Measure potential across the battery in the car. Record as V2. Use the following equations in order:

V1 / Ohms_Res = I

V2 / I = Ohms_Batt_Int

Ideally you want a low value that's close or less than 0.1 ohm.

Battery capacity in terms of mAh drops off with the number of charge cycles the battery has undergone, and internal resistance may not give you the whole picture because internal resistance in some cases remains a plateau throughout battery life while the capacity will decrease. Another method you could use is a DC load method. In this procedure, you measure OCV of the battery and then potential under load such as starting the car. You will require an accurate measure of amperage draw during this, and I'm apprehensive to explain that part because of the risks involved but the delta V / current = resistance.

The procedure the shop used to check your battery was likely AC conductance as they gave you a direct CCA value.

In short, your battery is fine. If people don't know wtf they're talking about they should refrain from posting "advice".

[hightime80]

Chemmie is DIAG incognito👍

[refueler]

Rocket 1420 the car had a battery charger hooked to but wouldn't stay running with the charger hooked up and supplying voltage to the car.

[rocket1420]

Rocket 1420 the car had a battery charger hooked to but wouldn't stay running with the charger hooked up and supplying voltage to the car.

Right, because it probably wasn't supplying enough current to keep the car running.

Regardless, your problem does likely lie with a bad battery connection of some sort. That's why I asked the questions I asked, to help eliminate some variables.

[refueler]

I eliminated the battery by changing to known good one. I removed the negative chasse ground cleaned and reattached it. Next I am going to get the car up on my lift and take the starter off clean it up reinstall it. I have a spare starter I might swap that into the mix. I'll ask this again can the engine run smoothly if I got the timing off by a little.