prop shaft alignment

[5ktq]

A while back I changed my trans mount, then the next day replaced the brake cables (which involved dropping the prop shaft center support bearing to let the driveshaft sag and get the heat shield out of the way EDIT: just the bearing, the CV's stayed connected ).

I lined the center bearing back up with the dirt marks so it should be aligned (?), but ever since then I get this noise. Maybe the trans moved sideways somewhat when I did the mount?

- in first and second, between 1500 - 3000 or so
- if you go fast it is louder and sounds like a big turbo spooling
- if you go slow it's a fainter gear whine kinda sound, that holds if you hold the revs at say 2000.
- entirely absent by third.

ideas?

[Biged243]

Just loosen it and try to re center it. Just see if that helps Also maybe readjusting the snub nose too.

[old guy]

The driveshaft/rear flange came with alignment paint marks from the factory. See if you can find them.

[Spike00513]

itsmatt33 says to install B7 brake cables. IDK what to do. Because aside from the cables, I do have that entire kit about ready to install, which would be nice since my stock brakes are worn out.

Dirt marks? On a center bearing? I thought it's just the front and rear joints (with a gasket) that have a paint dot mark on them or something?

I don't think I ever had that noise.

There is only so many orientations it can be installed in. However that is still many. So PITA. Would it work, to try them out?
Either way, IDK if the bolts need to be replaced with new ones. But I DO remember the manual said the red loctite old residue has to be cleaned off the thread interface or else it will build up and hold/lock it too tight, and the next time you try to remove it, the bolt head can snap off.
Plus, it's also inhex/allen. Not my favorite type of bolt face.
Especially with my cheap Crapsman tools.

Wonder if there's any literature on proper orientation of it, ie alignment. I understand there are joints but my guess would be that it'd prefer to be as straight as possible.
I hope the bearing is in good shape and works as intended.
Other than that, what can go wrong? I guess the rubber diaphragm that holds it can tear. Or, if you're not careful and rotate the flange joints at an angle, they use rubber boots that friction can tear. That is what happened to my spare unit.

[5ktq]

I didn't drop the whole propeller shaft, just the center bearing (took the bolts holding it out to remove the heat shield mounted under it, so the middle of the shaft hung down a couple inches). So the flanges and stuff are untouched.

I either somehow mounted the center bearing... Off center, or the trans moved out of alignment when I did the trans mount?

I guess I'll just have to trial and error tweak it, or dig up my "hold axle straight" jig if it's not scrap metal by now. Hard to see straightness without a hoist.

[Chemmie]

I'm willing to bet the CV joint is not seated entirely flat in the cup of the pinion flange. It's easy to get it cocked to one side and it'll bind/feel tight. Remove the 6 bolts, ensure the paint marks align as per above, clean the pinion flange and the CV side (all mating interfaces) and mate the two together by hand. Then add the capscrews, finger tight, opposing sides until all 6 are installed, then snug, opposing sides then tight etc etc.

If accessible, loosen the carrier bearing mount bolts, jostle the shaft around, and snug them while feeling the shaft/joints for binding. It's not necessarily binding, but difficult to explain what amounts to touch. Lightly snug the bolts, roll the wheels/driveshaft a few revs, tighten the carrier bolts.