Metal Slave Cylinder Install Help

[christianb5s4]

Been having a hell of a time installing the USP slave cylinder conversion, specifically getting the new slave into the transmission and getting the slave rod to seat correctly in the clutch fork vs slipping beneath it and not lining up. My OEM slave had the shorter rod which USP said to reuse compared to the one they supply as it's slightly longer so have been using that.

Does anyone have any tips on how to get that rod seated in the fork properly?

TIA

[jturnbull]

Have you filled it with fluid yet or no?

Normally I can get my finger on the tip of the rod and guide it into and feel that it's correctly seated no problem.

[FlyboyS4]

I used some thin ribbon, the type you'd put on a Christmas package, to compress the rod prior to putting the slave cylinder into place, then when the slave cylinder was installed I snipped the ribbon and removed it.

[spacecadet]

shouting obscenities very loudly seemed to help mine go in.

also some grease on the boot

[Cysco abt S4]

shouting obscenities very loudly seemed to help mine go in.

also some grease on the boot

Put spit make fit

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[christianb5s4]

Thanks guys, Jturnbull where are you getting your finger access to guide the rod? The engine and trans are in the car and have been trying to install before filling the slave with fluid.

[jturnbull]

Thanks guys, Jturnbull where are you getting your finger access to guide the rod? The engine and trans are in the car and have been trying to install before filling the slave with fluid.

Through the hole for the slave, if the system is filled with fluid you can guide it with your finger and then just push the slave in to compress the rod. It was even easier for me when I first installed it without the fluid as it compresses much easier.

[Wagonholic]

I installed mine dry (no fluid). I just slipped it in.

Gravity bled the slave so I could get as much fluid in the system as possible, then proceeded to the old pump and crack bleeder method. Clutch pedal feels great.

I used the longer rod that came with the USP unit, no issues. I do have a Southbend clutch and that is known for engaging very high (it's not that bad actually)

[JustManson]

I just did this job a few weeks ago.

I installed the braided line and the slave... installed the new slave dry then the cable.

I used white lithium grease on the boot of the slave cylinder and came in at a slight angle. Once it was seated and bolted in I started on the new line. This took no effort aIl since there's no pressure. The grease is a must because the boot will bind and not go in. cut the old line up top and put a rubber plug to stop the fluid leak. Then I removed the old line completely and snaked the braided line up. Once it was Through the grommet I pulled the old line out and slipped the new one in and cleaned everything.

Bled the system with a bleeder I purchased same as a brake line actually.

Took me the better part of a 3 hours total because I'm slow.

I did most of the work up top and do yourself a favor and unbolt the CV on the drivers side inner to make room. Life saver.


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[axnjaksn]

shouting obscenities very loudly seemed to help mine go in.

also some grease on the boot

scared it into place huh...this worked for me too, I also threw a tool on the ground really hard

[ElementR]

Highly advise to install before hooking up the hydraulic line. When I hooked up the hydraulic line first, I ended up forcing it into place on an angle which I didn't realize until later when the pedal went to the floor and slave rod popped out. I would never do that again. Much easier to bleed the hydraulic line.

[christianb5s4]

That's what we did, kept the line disconnected so it was easier to compress. Good news is it's finally in and functioning albeit needing to be bled more! Thanks for the feedback everyone, this is good info especially because you covered some of the finer points the USP manual and other threads didn't cover as far as installation tips.

This would have been 10 times easier if we did this with the engine outside of the car.

[cjt671]

That's what we did, kept the line disconnected so it was easier to compress. Good news is it's finally in and functioning albeit needing to be bled more! Thanks for the feedback everyone, this is good info especially because you covered some of the finer points the USP manual and other threads didn't cover as far as installation tips.

This would have been 10 times easier if we did this with the engine outside of the car.

So the clutch slave can be installed with the engine and trans out? Then just connect the line when reinstalling engine and transfer? Gonna be doing this fairly soon..

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[-Billy]

So the clutch slave can be installed with the engine and trans out? Then just connect the line when reinstalling engine and transfer? Gonna be doing this fairly soon..

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Yes. It's also way easier to bleed the slave with the engine a few inches out from the mounts so you have room between the engine and firewall.

[Wagonholic]

Glad you got it all figured out!

This would have been 10 times easier if we did this with the engine outside of the car.

THIS. x100000. I completely forgot to do mine when dropping my motor back in. I still have scars on my arms from having to bleed it thereafter lol.

[ElementR]

Yes. It's also way easier to bleed the slave with the engine a few inches out from the mounts so you have room between the engine and firewall.

^This.

[JustManson]

Come on it's not that bad!

Hahaha


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[sxC]

I had a friend help my with mine. Put it in without fluid. Basically we compressed it against a wall and while I held it my friend wrapped it with electrical tape (long ways, around the tip and the back to hold the piston in) several times until it would stay. Then popped it in, tightened the bolt, and cut the electrical tape.

[christianb5s4]

We ended up using some wire to guide the slave rod through, finally got it bled and the car is home! Love the clutch feel, zero vagueness on engagement and overall engagement feels more positive and communicative. It definitely adds a bit of weight to the pedal.

[Tiluleshpingen]

and you reused the oem rod?

[christianb5s4]

Yes, I reused the one I had in there (the black tipped one is what my car had in it). Clutch feels fantastic with no slop anywhere in the pedal travel, here's the note on the DIY from USP as well as the link for that DIY in case anyone was curious.

https://www.uspmotorsports.com/downl...structions.pdf

[RocksForsSale]

So does this preventatively while the motors out, like the motor mounts right?


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[JustManson]

This can be done with the motor in. And mounts in too... little tight some remove the axle.






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[cjt671]

...

[christianb5s4]

It's a pain in the butt, definitely doable though. Make sure you use the correct length piston arm, compare the length of the one supplied with the metal slave to the original one you take out. If different in length, use the one that was in there originally.

[tate182]

So does this preventatively while the motors out, like the motor mounts right?


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I know I am if the Oem one is plastic might as well make it better with the metal one from usp and be done with it

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[RocksForsSale]

I know I am if the Oem one is plastic might as well make it better with the metal one from usp and be done with it

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Yep, don't strip that bolt either very easy. Doesn't AutoZone or one of the big box supply a metal one?


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[zillarob]

The bleeder is 9mm on the plastic ones. I think most get stripped when people use a 10mm on them.
They dont need to be much more than finger tight because of the way they seal.