Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 02 2017
    AZ Member #
    394500
    Location
    Ann Arbor MI

    Oil leak lower front, turbo related? Anything else to check while doing timing belt

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    New to me 02 A4, 1.8t, 130k. Service history somewhat unknown, so before I drive it I'll be doing the timing belt. I decided to do the tear down before I order my timing belt kit to see if there's any extra seals I need. Everything I'm seeing actually looks pretty good so far. I thought I'd do the valve cover gasket set as a while you're at it type item but everything looks nice enough to me I don't think I want to mess with it. The only dirty spot I can find on the motor is on the lower front, near the turbo. I've looked through every diagram I could find and am not sure what that part even is. It's tied in to the many hoses associated with the turbo but I'm not sure what it does. I've looked in both an 02 Audi and Passat Bentley but no luck.

    So any help on what the oil source is and what to do about it? I'll also post some pictures of the valve cover/cam seal area to see what you think. Crank seal area is nice and dry. Any other things I should take care of while I've got it all taken apart? I've decided to also do the thermostat housing while I've got the front taken off since it should only take a couple minutes to pull the alternator now.








  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 19 2013
    AZ Member #
    121375
    Location
    minnesota

    Replace all the seals now while you can. Especially the front crank seal. That part you're talking about is a resonator it makes up for the fact that it's single intercooler whereas in Europe it's double intercooler.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  3. #3
    Stage 2 Banner Advertiser Four Rings ECS Tuning-Audi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 02 2006
    AZ Member #
    70746
    Location
    Wadsworth,OH

    When you do the timing belt service I would also suggest you do your cam and crank seals since youre working on the front of the vehicle anyways.

    We have complete kits that include seals, see the link below.

    Click HERE to order or for more information


    Let me know if you have any questions.

    Jason

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    122596
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario

    The first picture above look like your boost reservoir. Check to see if that hose leading to it is cracked or if the clamp is still sealing the hose onto the reservoir. It just looks like a bit of blow by to me.

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 02 2017
    AZ Member #
    394500
    Location
    Ann Arbor MI

    Thanks, with yours and jacobsens replys I found the part number for it. Looks like it's just a simple aluminum block with one line in, nothing out. I just cleaned the hose off and it looks pretty good underneath. So not sure where the leak would be from unless there's a tiny hole in the hose I can't see. This other hose to left is a bit more concerning with a gouge in it so I'll replace that.

    As far as the crank seal. As of right now it's pretty dry. So far my compressor won't crack the bolt at 100psi, I could always try 110 with some heat.





    Last edited by evilhomer; 03-03-2017 at 10:14 AM.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    122596
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario

    Sorry man I can't find the part name or number for the life of me. Maybe if you make a trip to dealer to see if they can pull up the part number and then you can search online with that number and find it for cheaper

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 19 2013
    AZ Member #
    121375
    Location
    minnesota

    You'll need a tool to keep the crankshaft in place as you remove the bolt and reinstall the bolt otherwise you'll put the motor off time. If it's too much work for you you can skip it come up but I wouldn't.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 02 2017
    AZ Member #
    394500
    Location
    Ann Arbor MI

    I figured out some, while you're at it type items. If you've gone as far as removing everything to do both belts, takes about 5 minutes more to pull the alternator to get to the thermostat housing. Pull the thermostat housing and you'll be staring at your broken dipstick tube.

    Behind the broken dipstick tube I found the tube that comes out of the oil filter housing had a split in it. Anyone have a part number for that one, maybe 06A103213F? I'm trying to find that tube and the one that comes out of the valve pictured above. I'm not longer worried about the tube coming out of the resonator, looks like it's probably fine.

    I decided to leave the crank seal in place but I got the valve cover kit and cam seals. I'm considering replacing the plastic water inlet on the back of the head while I've got the cover off since it's pretty easy to get to right now.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings gtsingh91's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 27 2008
    AZ Member #
    33512
    My Garage
    2005 A4 1.8TQM, 2001 A4 1.8TQM, 2007 350Z
    Location
    Long Island, NY

    Quote Originally Posted by evilhomer View Post
    I figured out some, while you're at it type items. If you've gone as far as removing everything to do both belts, takes about 5 minutes more to pull the alternator to get to the thermostat housing. Pull the thermostat housing and you'll be staring at your broken dipstick tube.

    Behind the broken dipstick tube I found the tube that comes out of the oil filter housing had a split in it. Anyone have a part number for that one, maybe 06A103213F? I'm trying to find that tube and the one that comes out of the valve pictured above. I'm not longer worried about the tube coming out of the resonator, looks like it's probably fine.

    I decided to leave the crank seal in place but I got the valve cover kit and cam seals. I'm considering replacing the plastic water inlet on the back of the head while I've got the cover off since it's pretty easy to get to right now.
    The tube near your oil filter housing sounds like the crankcase breather tube and PCV valve. Common leak issue with these 1.8 motors.
    Instagram: @_vishis
    2001 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro - 5 Speed - Silver

    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro - 6 Speed - Revo Stage II+ - Light Silver Metallic

    2000 Audi S4 2.7TT 6 Speed - EPL Stage II - Hibiscus Red Pearl SOLD

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2025 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.