Just figured I would write this down for anyone who like myself is unfamiliar with an Audi B6 A4 and likes to do their own maintenance. I had a lot of questions and things that I spent hours researching prior to starting this job, so I'm writing things I came across for the next person to do this.

My car had about 195K miles when I started this job as well and I believe I am the third or fourth owner.

I would rent the tools they are a life saver.
I went with a Dayco kit that includes crank/cam seals, wp, tensioner, all pullies, and water pump as well. The quality was spot-on in my opinion.

I also replaced the following during my job.

I didn't use the crankshaft lock pin. While I was tightening a camshaft everything did shift slightly, because apparently the tool wasn't fully engaged and it locked in place on the tool. I would triple check this tool; I didn't have any damage and the car runs fine. (I do plan on monitoring the timing in VCDS to see if the ECU is compensating at all.)
Camshaft adjuster gaskets x2
I replaced the camshaft seals, but they still seemed sound.
Left the crankshaft seal in place.
Possible purchase: There are metal rings on each shaft and you need 12 total I believe if you are going to replace them. I kept mine because they were still serviceable.
Buy a new thermostat with housing. I tried swapping just the thermostat out and the housing was brittle after all the years.
Coolant line from thermostat to coolant pipe.
Power steering hose.
Replace the clamps on all said hoses.
Intake manifold gasket.
Cleaned throttle body.
Cleaned out the valley pan of debris.
New serpentine belt tensioner/belt.
PCV system. I managed to find the vc to vc line on eBay for 16 bucks; I'm sure it's Chinese, but we'll see how long it lasts. I had to fabricate my own hose from the valley to PCV valve though using heater hose.
Silicone hose to replace any broken vacuum lines.
Spin all pullies to check for binding or noise. I had to replace my alternator and bought the parts to rebuild my original when I have some spare time.
The camshaft bolts are TTY from I was told after I got it all together. So, you might want to purchase new bolts.
Permatex Spray A Gasket I used on everything to hold the gaskets in place while I replaced the part.
I would also recommend either taking off the hatch from the top of the hood. I closed the hood without attaching the cable and as soon as I closed it I realized what I did. You can take the front grille out and remove three nuts though to get it back open. I tried using a pry bar to reach up and open it, but it wasn't happening.
I would spend the extra time to drop the whole radiator support down. I took the ATF lines off the radiator, but they were a bitch to get back on and I had to replace the o-rings. The o-rings are 3MMx11.5MMx17.5MM if I remember off the top of my head. Next time I might just try using the connectors, but they looked very rusty and I was scared something might break. I also did this, because everything was rusty and dirty in my engine bay, so it was hard to get tools to seat properly without risk of stripping. I was worried about this happening on my balancer bolts especially.
Cleaned up the fuel injectors and bought new o-rings from Pep Boys.

I have a leaking PS rack, front diff seal, fuel suction jet pump, and need to do an ATF drain/refill. I bought a B7 rack on ebay for 78 bucks, so I hope it fits in my car without problems. I also bought three different Audi PS rebuild kits and will see if I can rebuild my rack when I have free time. If those both fail then I'll pick up a rack from RackDoctor or something.

Not including the above I've done:

Suspension
Driveshaft
Control arms
Brake pads
Battery
A few regulators
One window motor
Master window switch
Swapped out radio with an AppRadio3
Aero arms
Disassembled/regreased the wiper linkage

A lot of work, money, and time I've put into this car and it's still awesome for the winter. I plan on keeping it until it dies or I do! lol.