engine question

**antzb5s4** · 02-26-2017 04:45 PM

I have a 2000 s4 manual, I am thinking of getting a lower mileage engine to swap into my car (engine would be from a 2001.5 auto). My question is what are the differences between the automatic and manual engines? I know the autos use the sai system which would need to be blocked off, and I know the autos use a flex plate, but I would throw that in the garbage cause I have all the manual stuff (obviously). other then that what else would I have to worry about? any input is appreciated. I have googled for info but I am coming up with little info. just basically the sai system.

**CELison** · 02-26-2017 04:49 PM

What's wrong with your engine?

**spacecadet** · 02-26-2017 04:50 PM

it would just bolt right up.

**antzb5s4** · 02-26-2017 05:18 PM

Thanks spacecraft.

CELison nothing really just high mileage 150k. I know that's not that high, but I came across 2 engines one with 91k and another with 81k that are relatively cheap at 400 and 600. Both are supposedly in good shape

**y3ti** · 02-26-2017 05:26 PM

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. There are a few owners with 300k+ engines still up and going. You're asking for trouble.

**CELison** · 02-26-2017 05:29 PM

I pulled my engine apart at 165k and could still see the cross hatch in the cylinders clear as day. There's several running strong at 300K + miles.

**brandon91891** · 02-26-2017 05:38 PM

I would run that engine into the ground. Mine has 170k stage 3 and runs fine so I wouldn't worry that much. I bought a spare and started building it up to handle more power then will swap it when ready no rush. Unless your doing that I would keep the one you got in the car.

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**ReggieNoble** · 02-26-2017 05:55 PM

I believe there is a spacer or a ring on the output shaft on autos that would need to be heated and removed

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**ReggieNoble** · 02-26-2017 06:02 PM

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**ReggieNoble** · 02-26-2017 06:03 PM

Sorry meant spacer on crankshaft will need to be removed. # 15 in the pic

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**Corradovolksb** · 02-26-2017 06:21 PM

I wouldn't worry about the mileage. I have 245k on mine. If you are dead set on swapping engines the auto motors have secondary air so you will need to block the combo valve ports in the heads

**mikeb17** · 02-26-2017 06:31 PM

Swapping an engine in for a 60k mileage diference would be a huge waste of time. Not to mention you know how your engine was maintained. I'm sure several others will agree with me.

**Mille Bornes** · 02-26-2017 07:24 PM

Definitely agree with everyone saying waste of time. I've been stage 3 for the past 50k, no issues. I'm at 185k now.

I have a BEL on a stand waiting for internals and I'm hoping I can have that ready with 770's maybe as a 200k present for my car lol

**MacDaddy** · 02-26-2017 08:47 PM

Id rather have a taken care of high milage engine than a mystery maintenance low millage.

As the saying goes, its the devil you know vs the devil you dont know.

**slowSfaux** · 02-26-2017 08:57 PM

Another vote for this being a waste of time. Swapping for lower mileage is only advisable if the current engine has serious issues. If it runs like it should, doesn't consume coolant, doesn't burn excess oil, run it until it breaks.

**insomniacxp1** · 02-26-2017 09:05 PM

205k stage 3 f21's @ 25 lbs and loving life, keep the engine in man.

**antzb5s4** · 02-27-2017 04:30 AM

Thanks for the input guys. I was just tossing around the idea of either freshing up my motor or getting a lower mileage motor. I'm pulling my motor and trans to put in a new clutch, rebuild the trans, and do the rear main seal.

**erykv1** · 02-27-2017 04:34 AM

I agree with everyone else here. If you're really concerned, do a compression test and go from there. Save the $ for the hundred dollars worth of rubber hoses you'll eventually need, lol.

**S4James** · 02-27-2017 04:44 AM

the blocks are not the issue. The heads take a beating. two sets of 2.7T heads with various exhaust valve issues, pitting, burning, leaking.... blah.

I broke two motors before I had enough stuff to build one good one with 2.8 heads with 2.7exhaust valves.

Trouble is these cars have passed from new, to enthusiasts, to broke-ass idiots that don't maintain their cars.

Clean engines are going to rapidly become a hot commodity.. I think this latest build will be my last spin of the wheel on this platform. Time to move to something newer.

**CELison** · 02-27-2017 06:01 AM

Originally Posted by S4James

the blocks are not the issue. The heads take a beating. two sets of 2.7T heads with various exhaust valve issues, pitting, burning, leaking.... blah.

I broke two motors before I had enough stuff to build one good one with 2.8 heads with 2.7exhaust valves.

Trouble is these cars have passed from new, to enthusiasts, to broke-ass idiots that don't maintain their cars.

Clean engines are going to rapidly become a hot commodity.. I think this latest build will be my last spin of the wheel on this platform. Time to move to something newer.

This is all true. You'll come back though. I played in the b8 scene for a while then came back.

**christianb5s4** · 02-27-2017 09:46 AM

One more vote for keeping your engine, mine had a very hard life before my ownership and finally died at 450+whp at 305,400 miles. The cylinder walls still looked OK even after all those miles, as James said the heads are the part that tend to degrade i.e. valve seal stems can start leaking, etc.

FWIW after diagnosing, we concluded that the thing that likely killed that engine was a broken driver's side primary o2 sensor wire in the engine harness that decided to sever while I was at WOT.

**paul61** · 03-22-2017 11:57 AM

Originally Posted by Corradovolksb

I wouldn't worry about the mileage. I have 245k on mine. If you are dead set on swapping engines the auto motors have secondary air so you will need to block the combo valve ports in the heads

575K here. Runs great