A4 1.8T B6 Idle Problems P507 P3041

[sandorck]

Hello I have Audi A4 1.8 T B6 and when it is on Drive won't go forward itself like normally instead it move sometimes slowly but a high idle of 1000 or 1200 rpm.
I have to accelerate the car then I get a big kick or jerking specially in a up hill. I can go in reverse normally and go in high speed normally the problem is always when I stop the car and I trying to go forward in the beginning.
I have cleaned the throttle body, and MAF, I did the throttle adaptation with VCDS VAG COM, I replaced my battery because the reading was 11.400V so I got a new battery
and I haven't found any broken or cracked hoses, I am planning to do a boost leak test today and check some hoses under the intake.
Any recommendations? I would appreciate all the help thanks

I have VAg com tech ross VCDS and I scanned the car :


Thursday,16,February,2017,22:12:39:64536
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 7 x86
VCDS Version: 16.8.3.1
Data version: 20161010 DS267.0
Ross-Tech: Home

Mileage: 242500km-150682miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06B-909-518-AMB.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 909 518 BC HW: 8E0 909 018 A
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0020
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: AUZ6Z0D0372849
Coding: 0016581
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 72EA59D96E5339D2BA-50AE

2 Faults Found:
19497 - Powertrain Databus
P3041 - 004 - Implausible Engine Temp. Message from Inst. Panel
16891 - Idle Control System RPM
P0507 - 001 - Higher than Expected. - Intermittent - MIL ON
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl
Part No: 8E0 820 043 AA
Component: A4 Klimaautomat 1424
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 06335
VCID: 60CE2391E0BFBB42DC-50AE

1 Fault Found:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8E2.lbl
Part No: 8E0 920 950 P
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D42
Coding: 00231
Shop #: WSC 05140
VCID: 3662A5C912BB65F256-5090
WAUJC68E15A118653 AUZ6Z0D0372849

1 Fault Found:
01039 - Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2)

[old guy]

Boost leak test would be appropriate. Also take a really close look at the hoses between the PCV valve and the block. The "L" hose that connects to the block is prone to cracking and will allow non-metered air to enter into the intake thus causing a faster idle. It will not show up with a boost pressure test since the PCV prevents pressure from getting to the hose.

[Pswish]

I'd start with replacing your G2 coolant temp sensor then reset your ECU.

19497 - Powertrain Databus
P3041 - 004 - Implausible Engine Temp. Message from Inst. Panel: Ross Wiki
- Coolant Sensor

16891 - Idle Control System RPM
P0507 - 001 - Higher than Expected. - Intermittent - MIL ON: Ross Wiki
- Throttle Valve Control Module (J338) dirty/faulty
- Wiring/Connector(s) from/to Throttle Valve Control Module (J338)
- Vacuum Leak

01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) - 41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent: Ross Wiki
- Wiring/Connectors from/to Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) faulty
- Positioning Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) blocked
- Positioning Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) faulty

01039 - Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2): Ross Wiki

Possible Symptoms
Difficulties with starting a cold engine.
Starting the engine when engine is warmish or warm, idle rpm immediately is 1200 - 3000 rpm.
RPM at idle is irregular.
With all engine temperatures seldom idle rpm will vary between 900 - 1000 rpm.
With engine warm (90 °C) the engine temperature suddenly drops (70 °C) and slowly comes back to 90 °C.
Bad acceleration during warming up.

Possible Causes
Wiring and/or connections faulty
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2) faulty

Possible Solutions
Check wiring and connections
Check / Replace Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2), replace with a green one.

[old guy]

Good call. Also a strong possibility but it wouldn't cause the P0507. OP may be dealing with multiple issues.

[sandorck]

Thanks I will try the boost test leak and replacing the coolant sensor to see how it goes, thanks.

[sandorck]

is the L hose under the intake manifold?

[old guy]

is the L hose under the intake manifold?

Yes. It is the hose that comes out of the block breather port located above the oil filter housing.



The hose to the left of the oil dipstick tube.

[sandorck]

awesome Thanks for the pictures!! It look like I have to remove the intake manifold to get access to that area. do you recommend to replace the gaskets of the intake also since I will take it apart.

[old guy]

awesome Thanks for the pictures!! It look like I have to remove the intake manifold to get access to that area. do you recommend to replace the gaskets of the intake also since I will take it apart.

The intake manifold gasket is pretty cheap so I would recommend getting a new one. However I have reused them several times before replacing them.

You can get a look at that hose without removing the intake manifold to see if it is cracked. Get a bright light source and look down between the intake runners.

[sandorck]

ok thanks I will check it with a better light.

[sandorck]

Do you know how take the L hose out. I saw a little crACK then took the intake manifold out to have access and when I tried to disconnect the L it broke but still the bottom peace attached to the block.

[sandorck]

[old guy]

There is a “U” shaped metal retaining clip that needs to be pulled out from the side. Then use some needle nosed pliers to pull out the remaining brass colored metal insert. Then use a shop vac with a small hose attachment to suck out the broken pieces. I used a piece of ¾” clear flex tubing and adapted it to the shop vac hose. Duct tape will work fine.

[sandorck]

Thanks, Any idea how you can disconnect the L tube from the T ? I notice the pictures you show me has some press O rings but mine doesn't have those O rings with the option to screw. Thanks for all the help, I hope this is the problem, I notice a straight minimal crack aperture like the plastic splitting apart.

[old guy]

The components just press together. This should help you visualize whats there. Clicky click®

[sandorck]

I have to order the parts, do you recommend replace the T also? it doesn't look bad but so far to get to this area and I am not being a mechanic and no having the right tool is a pain in the neck lol. I just don't want to back here to replace more parts for now.
also I have attached a pic, do you know where is it located I would like to give a check.

[sandorck]

I notice My L tube was grease like oil coming out IDK so instead do the vacuum test I decided to take the intake manifold apart to be able to get to this area because only removing the coolant will not let me work comfortable with no access .
so and then I saw a little straight crack and I thought this is no normal so I hope this was the problem.

[old guy]

The part you are showing is the PCV valve for a 2002 model year. Your PCV valve is incorporated in to the "T" as well as the check valve for the secondary breather line. All three components are in one housing. That would be what I linked in post #15.

[sandorck]

Thanks.

[PSI NRG]

I just fixed a p0507. It was the suction jet pump. The three way valve at the fire wall near the coolant over flow tank. Had a hole in one of the diaphragms and was causing a big air leak and high idle.

[sandorck]

Thanks I did replace it because I found a leak on it and the intake sensor was leaking air also probably the rubber ring was worn out, I replaced it as well and now I just find out the ABS BRAKE SERVO PUMP 8E0927317A was leaking air from my vacuum leak test.

[sandorck]

Hello Old Guy, it's been a while since I have been trying to find the problem, I did what you told me to do.

I replaced the Breather Hose Elbow from the block
I replaced the Pressure Control Valve (PCV)
I replaced the Dipstick oil because I broke it
I replaced the suction pump because it was leaking air from the vacuum leak test I did.
I replaced the intake Air Temperature Sensor because it was leaking air I guess the rubber o ring was worn out.
I replaced the Coolant Temperature Sensor because the VAGCOM show me it was bad.
I replaced the Silicone Elbow Hose
Connects the hard vent tube to the intake hose. it was crack but no sign of leak, but I decided to replace it anyways.
I replaced the valve gasket cover because was leaking oil. but now I get small leak from the bottom of the valve cover passenger side, the drop fall by the hot thing with the O2 sensor connected, I don't know how it is called. any ideas what it could be? it is only two spots where oil drop and burn and smoke.
I replaced the coils pack and spark plugs.

I did on more time the vacuum leak test and I notice air was coming out from the bottom of the ABS BRAKE SERVO PUMP 8E0927317A, is it related with my vacuum leak? i took it apart and I notice the leak came from the actually pump. I ordered a used part from eBay.
anything else do you think I could causing the vacuum leak? the car still won't go forward on D, only when I press the gas it move forward. I notice the in D it go to itself to 1000RPM but won't go forward like it used to go slow.
is anything I can do with the VAGCOM to find the problem?