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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Control Arms Whats the Difference?

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    I've read the S-Line are stiffer than stock A4 but not as stiff as S4? Is this correct?

    Whats the difference between OEM, FEBI, MEYLE and 034 if the FEBI fit the S4 also?

    I'm not going to drop ride height anytime soon, but want to stiffen up the suspension. Front Upper bushings are worn and first to be replaced.
    Last edited by JKCutler3; 02-23-2017 at 09:10 PM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Mayle HD are best. 034 are schtiffies and Febi are knockoff

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings 5ktq's Avatar
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    I think original is probably lemforder or trw

    febi and meyle products are kind of across the board.. some german but a lot turkish, chinese.

    Although even first rate outfits like lemforder are having more chinese things now.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Yeah lemforter is best but man you gonnna spend child...you gonna spennd...

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
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    My thread on updating standard upper arms to S4 bushings.

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11331051

    I have had the German made Febi kit for more than a year. So far so good.
    2003 02X Six speed swapped, RS4 RSB, H&R FSB, B7 brakes, 2.0T stroker, DSMIC's, B7 CTS K04 turbo.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    I have the 034 density line kit with their adjustable upper control arms. Feels smooth like oem but bushing are beefier from what's advertised.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings 5ktq's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin C View Post
    My thread on updating standard upper arms to S4 bushings.

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post11331051

    I have had the German made Febi kit for more than a year. So far so good.
    Dude that's the problem with febi and meyle I was talking about. They changed their names to febi GERMANY and Meyle GERMANY. The GERMANY on the CAs means nothing, it's just the brand - and pretty disingenuous. The box will have a sticker saying where it was actually made though.

    I got a febi trans mount a while back:

    Mount itself says febi GERMANY and nothing else.
    Top (main) box label says febi Germany
    small sticker on bottom of box says made in china.

    edit: derp, I see we had the same conversation in the thread you linked. I can't remember things anymore.

    Anyway moral of the story is meyle and febi are decent parts in general, still have some german production but some is not, so buyer beware. Their german stuff is near first rate, and world sourced is probably best you can get for not european made.

    I just get let down when I spend extra for german part and get a chinese one, even if it's better quality / qc than shit-tier parts like 'uro' or 'mtc'. I guess my concern is that their chinese sourced parts are made in the same plant as low-tier ones, and they charge extra for that 'GERMANY' and former name weight.
    Last edited by 5ktq; 02-24-2017 at 07:03 PM.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKCutler3 View Post
    I've read the S-Line are stiffer than stock A4 but not as stiff as S4? Is this correct?

    Whats the difference between OEM, FEBI, MEYLE and 034 if the FEBI fit the S4 also?

    I'm not going to drop ride height anytime soon, but want to stiffen up the suspension. Front Upper bushings are worn and first to be replaced.
    I saw an official Audi document that said this too, at least the first part, S-line being stiffer than normal.
    IDK about S4. Didn't someone install S4 bushings though?
    edit: looks like yes

    And you seem to be talking about large front, inner, upper.

    Just a note, don't forget about the tiny one that the shock/strut mounts onto. Weight goes on it. And at least for the FCP kit, maybe it is soft, and if you plan to install such a thing, I heard it's a good idea to order something heavier duty, maybe Meyle HD, which could be stiffer (so it doesn't sag with mileage) that should be cheap, $8/ea or something. Yes, it adds steps/complication, unless you're the lucky few who have a garage and a hydraulic shop press in it, where you can take your time and set the bushing to the right depth, if that's even how its done. My point is that since it's your own personal car, you've got a big interest in taking care and trying to make sure things are done right.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Axis's Avatar
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    3.0T 6MT Stage III Allroad | A4 B8.5 Sedan
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    Meyle HD used to be good, now its not.

    Lemfoerder for me.
    Wagons are made to haul things, mine is made to haul ass

    *****I sell in USD*****

    Click here to read my seller feedback

    B8.5 Allroad 3.0T 6MT Sport Diff 034 Stage II+

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    I thought about this for quite a while. If I was to do it all over again I would either do what I did which is good but stiff. It's taking awhile for it to loosen up. Or I would probably go with the lemforder.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    I thought about this for quite a while. If I was to do it all over again I would either do what I did which is good but stiff. It's taking awhile for it to loosen up. Or I would probably go with the lemforder.
    I guess not too stiff, could that be such a thing? Because someone did find black poly eBay ones for cheap, there was a thread some months ago.
    There is also Powerflex, but I heard these suspension geometries dont play well with poly and that it's rubber for a reason. Or that the poly is subject to such force, and because it may not have any give, would just tear.

    As for NVH transmitted to the driver, I wonder.
    Because a lot of it, I bet, is coming from the spring and damper, connecting the wheel to the road, no matter what.
    Then again, I can't discount control arms, because they hold the wheel up/straight.

    Haven't even mentioned spherical bearings

    and 034 has Density Line

    https://store.034motorsport.com/cont...a4-s4-rs4.html

    I mention this because OP says "stiffen suspension" - well, like how? Everything plays a part. All the other bushings and pads, the kind of spring(s) and dampers.
    Maybe. Like more crisp?
    I'm currently on stock parts, and can see torn rubber when peeking in the fender well.
    and the front end feels like crap. Vague, I dont really know what's going on. And they probably move under load.
    Basically if I turn the SW right, I just hope the wheels copy that in some general sort of way. It works technically, I guess.

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5ktq View Post
    Anyway moral of the story is meyle and febi are decent parts in general, still have some german production but some is not, so buyer beware. Their german stuff is near first rate, and world sourced is probably best you can get for not european made.

    I just get let down when I spend extra for german part and get a chinese one, even if it's better quality / qc than shit-tier parts like 'uro' or 'mtc'. I guess my concern is that their chinese sourced parts are made in the same plant as low-tier ones, and they charge extra for that 'GERMANY' and former name weight.
    Yea but how do you make sure to get their good stuff?? Maybe I should make some a phone call to see if I can get an answer.

    Quote Originally Posted by Spike00513 View Post
    I saw an official Audi document that said this too, at least the first part, S-line being stiffer than normal.
    IDK about S4. Didn't someone install S4 bushings though?
    edit: looks like yes

    And you seem to be talking about large front, inner, upper.

    Just a note, don't forget about the tiny one that the shock/strut mounts onto. Weight goes on it. And at least for the FCP kit, maybe it is soft, and if you plan to install such a thing, I heard it's a good idea to order something heavier duty, maybe Meyle HD, which could be stiffer (so it doesn't sag with mileage) that should be cheap, $8/ea or something. Yes, it adds steps/complication, unless you're the lucky few who have a garage and a hydraulic shop press in it, where you can take your time and set the bushing to the right depth, if that's even how its done. My point is that since it's your own personal car, you've got a big interest in taking care and trying to make sure things are done right.
    Which is why I want something that is quality but mid priced. I don't want to replace them again.

    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    I thought about this for quite a while. If I was to do it all over again I would either do what I did which is good but stiff. It's taking awhile for it to loosen up. Or I would probably go with the lemforder.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    Sounds like highest quality on the market.

    Listed at $772 for the whole kit I will probably with something in the $500 range. Meyle at $440, if better quality why is Febi $495. The struggle is real. haha I just dont think I could spend the extra cash on Lemforder. I'd rather spend it on red tops and plugs. haha

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    You can either get the 03 for Street density or you can get the lemforder and I would go with the lymph order because it's going to save you time and hassle in the long run. You don't know what you're getting with the feby and the maley.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    You can either get the 03 for Street density or you can get the lemforder and I would go with the lymph order because it's going to save you time and hassle in the long run. You don't know what you're getting with the feby and the maley.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    03
    it is.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    You can either get the 03 for Street density or you can get the lemforder and I would go with the lymph order because it's going to save you time and hassle in the long run. You don't know what you're getting with the feby and the maley.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    I got the Febi kit and the arms were all made in Germany. So now you know what your getting. I took that kit and upgraded the bushing on the uppers to the S4 style. One year in and they are all good. The 03 kit says its for the S4 but does not appear to have the correct S4 upper bushings. https://store.034motorsport.com/cont...a4-s4-rs4.html
    2003 02X Six speed swapped, RS4 RSB, H&R FSB, B7 brakes, 2.0T stroker, DSMIC's, B7 CTS K04 turbo.

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings
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    So I got these off of Craigslist. I was getting ready to install them when I noticed they're definitely different. Both for the right side, but one is smooth, the other has a grainy finish. And the logos are presented differently. You can also see Germany on one of the bushings but not the other. Wondering if the one that doesn't say Germany is lower quality?








    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Maybe hd or lemforter or 034 whichever is best price maybe... Maybe one is just newer and they changed the way they manufacture them now?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings diztek's Avatar
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    buy nice or buy twice. i bought febi's, then after 1 year it started making creaking noises. replaced them with trw and never looked back.
    2016 AUDI S3 Prem+ Monsoon Grey

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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
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    Personally, you can't beat OEM.

    My 2000 B5 Quattro was still solid on the originals at 135,000 miles, so they do last a long time.

    For my B6, I'm going with genuine B7 RS4 lower arms. And yeah, from Audi direct, no third party crap. The ride will be firm, yet compliant.
    2007 Audi RS4 Avant B7 - Misano Red Pearl Effect
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings itsmatt33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    Mayle HD are best. 034 are schtiffies and Febi are knockoff

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    this
    GTX2867r 02 Audi A4 B6 TQM REVO|RECARO|HRE|ER|IE|APR|AWE|034 Build page here
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    IG: @matthewee

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings g huns's Avatar
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    Hope Febi's suspension components are better quality than their water pumps.
    2012 A6 3.0 Premium Plus w/Sport Package

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings diztek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by g huns View Post
    Hope Febi's suspension components are better quality than their water pumps.
    they are not.
    2016 AUDI S3 Prem+ Monsoon Grey

    RETIRED:Audi A4 1.8t UltraSport - USP CLUB MEMBER #90
    Apikol Snub Mount-United Motorsport stage 2-Bosch 440cc-VR6 maf-034Motor Mounts-AWE Exhaust-RS4 Rear Sway-OEM DSMIC-Evo Billet DV-Podi Boost Gauge-Stasis SS Coilovers

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Three Rings oaybar007's Avatar
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    The rubber components on my oem Lemforder arms are just about done all around, uppers and lowers. I'm at 139k mileage. I'm going to go with the Meyle HD kit as well. It seems to be well liked and falls in the quality-at-a-reasonable price category.
    Brilliant Red 2004 A4 1.8t Quattro 6spd Ultrasport
    Florett Silver 2016 S4

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Yeah but lemforter are the best best.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  25. #25
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    Yeah but lemforter are the best best.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    On RMEuropean.Com Lemforder uppers are $45 each. HERE

  26. #26
    Senior Member Two Rings DJHoro's Avatar
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    I went with Fcp Euro Uppers and replaced bushings with new whiteline ones. Bushings where under 40$ from Auto Anything shipped with a discount code. Planning on installing with Coilovers in the coming weeks. Waiting on my 034 top hat bushings but they are back ordered.

  27. #27
    Senior Member Two Rings G-Ride's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    Yeah but lemforter are the best best.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    If I had my time again, I'd go down the lemfoerder path. I bought a febi kit about 3 years ago and they are horrible. Terrible noises come from them when turning, when the weather hot the rubber is noisy.
    I'll replace them at some point with Lems.


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  28. #28
    Veteran Member Three Rings tHatOne guY's Avatar
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    Lems next time for sure.

    Used the FCP option3 kit 25k miles ago and the car doesn't seem to track straight like it did before the control arm change.

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    For the record I like my 034 Street density complete control arm kit it was a good price. They're more firm and they don't take up as much slack so they transmit more through themselves. It all comes down to the bushing. Thickness, density, material, and I think old gangster once said that the lemforder have a Teflon lubricating Puck inside? I'm not sure if the others do?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  30. #30
    Senior Member Three Rings crazyquik22023's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    You can either get the 03 for Street density or you can get the lemforder and I would go with the lymph order because it's going to save you time and hassle in the long run. You don't know what you're getting with the feby and the maley.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    Mayle HD are best. 034 are schtiffies and Febi are knockoff

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    Yeah but lemforter are the best best.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    For the record I like my 034 Street density complete control arm kit it was a good price. They're more firm and they don't take up as much slack so they transmit more through themselves. It all comes down to the bushing. Thickness, density, material, and I think old gangster once said that the lemforder have a Teflon lubricating Puck inside? I'm not sure if the others do?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    So in this 1 thread you have said that Mayle are the best, but then you said you don't know what you are getting with Mayle, then you said Lemfoerder are the best, then you said 034 are too stiff, then you say you like the 034. I don't think I would take your word for buying any control arms.

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazyquik22023 View Post
    So in this 1 thread you have said that Mayle are the best, but then you said you don't know what you are getting with Mayle, then you said Lemfoerder are the best, then you said 034 are too stiff, then you say you like the 034. I don't think I would take your word for buying any control arms.
    The maley HD are the upgrade to the standard Mayle and what I had on my car for the past fifty thousand miles. they shouldn't be a bad buy. However people are saying that they've moved manufacturing to China? And the quality isn't so great? Hmm.. The 034 Street density are stiff but so far so good on my car. I did have one prematurely fail... front right rear lower. And everyone will agree that the lemforder are the best best of the best. These three brands are all in competition with each other
    1. lemforder
    2. 034 street
    3. Mayle HD
    4. Febi don't buy!
    And the only reason you would not get the lemforder is because you don't want to spend the money on them.



    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
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    I ran Febi on my B5 for five years and did lose one lower ball joint due to a bad seal.

    I have had Febi on my B6 for more than a year without issue.

    I did lose two Meyle tie rod ends due to a lack of grease.

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    For the record I like my 034 Street density complete control arm kit it was a good price. They're more firm and they don't take up as much slack so they transmit more through themselves. It all comes down to the bushing. Thickness, density, material, and I think old gangster once said that the lemforder have a Teflon lubricating Puck inside? I'm not sure if the others do?
    Teflon is known to deposit a layer of transfer-film that is self lubricating. This is the first time I'm hearing of it being used like this. Interesting, I'll look into it.
    This speak of "firmness" raises my curiosity. Because when I DID change CA's, it did seem more firm, crisp, feelable, and precise. Like I actually knew what the front end of the car was doing and could control it more like a scalpel carving the road. Rather than feeling wobbly, going on it's own wherever it wants under road force (the car is heavy), and basically flopping around because the bushings connecting it to the road became worn and loose.

    I say this because I wonder if you having gone with street density, makes that even MORE of an effect.
    Or the recent talk about people pressing in S4 bushings, or poly which I hear doesn't like B6 application and can tear.

    Regardless of bushing, you still have springs and dampers doing work. I hear Koni FSD improves handling and comfort by 30% when paired with sport springs. However those still vary. '02 sport is lower and stiffer. That is the combo diagnosticator used, and someone else recently who said it's nice.
    Kind of expensive though. I've only seen secondhand FSD for $350-$500 twice. Other than that, MSRP is like $800. I suppose it's not THAT bad once every 10+ years depending on factors but I'm just saying. It's not cheap.

    Then, what about OTHER suspensions? various brands and models of coilover, and so on. The whole system working together.
    Isn't this why race teams use spherical joints and stiff-body coilovers, so they can calculate and align suspension performance without having to worry about rubber deflection messing it up?
    I don't mean to lump everything into one category though. It's apples and oranges. A rally car is not built the same way as an F1 car using pull or push-rod suspension (or do they have similarities?) - but, both are purpose-built, get rebuilt often, and cost $1M+...

    Once saw a thread of a curb crashed D3 A8 where the CA's buckled first as intended by design (aluminum is a soft light metal) saving the car, so he DIY fixed it and was happy to install new Lemforder parts.

    Not sure how much they cost, guess I'll look it up.
    But me personally? I think my FCP kit might've tore, and I paid extra for a lifetime warranty, so maybe I can just swap in a new kit for now (hopefully get 25-30k+ mi out of it?) and wait a few more years to contemplate Lemforder, if I even still have the car by then, who knows.

  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    For the record I like my 034 Street density complete control arm kit it was a good price. They're more firm and they don't take up as much slack so they transmit more through themselves. It all comes down to the bushing. Thickness, density, material, and I think old gangster once said that the lemforder have a Teflon lubricating Puck inside? I'm not sure if the others do?
    All of the ball joints have a liner. None of them are metal on metal anymore. That's pretty standard stuff for ball joints.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  35. #35
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    I bought a set from FCP ~2 years ago and the other day I noticed there were some stress cracks on the bushings.

  36. #36
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by coffeysm View Post
    I bought a set from FCP ~2 years ago and the other day I noticed there were some stress cracks on the bushings.
    But what set did you buy? It'd help those of us who are deciding whether to replace a couple control arms or just buy the entire front end kit.
    2
    FCP has Meyle HD and Lemforder kits. The Meyle price @$460 USD is agreeable, considering just the 4 rearward/frontward front lower CA's are about $100 CAD each. I can't see spending $1000 on just a front kit for a $4000 car, especially since the OEM parts lasted only 170k kms.

  37. #37
    Veteran Member Three Rings 5ktq's Avatar
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    I was working on my old audi a few days back. One ball joint. Doesn't handle as nice but.. one ball joint and no aluminium

  38. #38
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Can anyone shed light on the above question re: Meyle HD Ball Joint Kit? Will it last at least as long as the stock parts?

    I did my CVT fluid today and the passenger side seriously needs both lowers.

  39. #39
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Can anyone shed light on the above question re: Meyle HD Ball Joint Kit? Will it last at least as long as the stock parts?

    I did my CVT fluid today and the passenger side seriously needs both lowers. I'm apt to trust what Oaybar said above and just order the HD kit.

  40. #40
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    The jury is not out.... Lemforder is the best of the best. Mayle HD is a replacement to original design which is I think a good sign to revise their part.... get the one in your budget and report back in the future

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

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