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  1. #201
    Established Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 11 2018
    AZ Member #
    412336
    My Garage
    2018 VW Atlas
    Location
    Florida

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    Quote Originally Posted by Acejam View Post
    Stock supercharger pulley?
    Yes...for a short time longer.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #202
    Registered User Four Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 26 2006
    AZ Member #
    10540
    My Garage
    Over 20! too many plant pots!
    Location
    Earth

    Hi Everyone,
    I want to address some concerns in this thread.

    I am happy most of you are enjoying your Fluidampr set up but I need to comment on the machining side of things.

    The outer rings are CNC machined . The programming for those rings has not changed since inception.
    The file is based off the Fluidampr and our machines boast a tolerance of 0.000X"

    Like the old adageÖ.garbage in garbage out.
    This is the process Ė specifically to the 183mm since that is the most common size we machine.
    - 8Ē x 2Ē bar stock is loaded into the soft jaws and the CNC is Zeroíed
    - The back profile of the ring is chewed out Ė approx 27 minutes on the Mori . (This includes the inner pocket and the out diameter) . This is known as OP1 (Operation 1)
    - The partially machined ring is then placed in a CNC lathe where the back hub is used as the reference face
    - The 7 serpentine ribs are then machined Ė approx 4 minutes (yes it is that fast). This is known as OP2
    - Operation 3 is simply machining the front face (what you see once it is installed) for the counter sunk flat socket cap screws. This is the only process done on a manual mill
    - The ring is then moved to the deburing and QC room to remove any sharp edges .

    Nothing about the machining process is done ďmanuallyĒ . We donít turn rings on a manual lathe , that would be absurd.
    On my instagram I posted a video of us turning them on both the CNC mill & lathe almost 2 years ago.

    That being said , if there is an alignment issue , I highly doubt it is from the fluidampr or the adapter ring but like always I am here to help. If you feel your ring is off then send it back for me to inspect and if it is off , I will machine up another one in any size you wish no questions asked.

    These are the enthusiasts that donít have issues:
    - Those who only change the crank pulley
    - Those who canít change the supercharger pulley (A7 etc)

    To give a short example as to why I believe it isnít the fluidampr , the one pulley that is being pressed on and off is the Supercharger pulley. Mistakes happen as we are all human.
    A local shop here did a Giac Dual Pulley tune on a B8 S4 and similar symptoms that were displayed in this thread occurred. Turns out the supercharger pulley was installed but did not seat all the way causing the belt to ride to one side of the outer ring.
    It only needs to be off by 1mm to see this.

    Unfortunately I donít get time to check forums as often as I use to so if you inbox me I probably wonít read it until I log in.
    Email is always best so PLEASE if you have an issue send me an email and I will take care of it. That is what I am here for.

    HTH
    Issam

  3. #203
    Veteran Member Four Rings Acejam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 22 2009
    AZ Member #
    52423
    Location
    MA

    I ended up swapping out my Fluidampr 187 to a JHM 187 due to fitment issues. Over the past few months I have swapped pulleys 4-5 times and have picked up a few tips along the way that I thought I would share.

    Regardless of what pulley you're installing, one thing that really helped me was using an M8 x 1.25 stud in the offset hole. This allowed me to inspect the crank snub with a light and mirror and easily identify the offset hole. Once found, I would insert a stud into the hole which allowed me to easily slide the crank pulley on. On the pulley itself I would simply place my finger on the offset hole, and then slide the pulley on. If my finger didn't touch/get pushed out of the way by the stud, then I knew things weren't aligned properly. Of course, this makes visual verification very easy after installing as well. Once on, I would insert and hand tighten the remaining 7 bolts, remove stud, insert the 8th bolt, and then torque all bolts in a star pattern. I also decided to use a small bit of Blue loctite on the bolts.

    Two notes specific to the JHM setup:
    1. At checkout, I selected "APR or similar" drive pulley. They sent me a Bando 1320 belt. From what I have found, a 1320 belt for a 187/57 setup is much too long. I opted to use my Gates RPM 7PK1300 belt instead. It's tight, but once installed it fits perfectly. A 1310 should also work.
    2. The new bolts supplied with the JHM crank pulley are hex cap bolt equivalents of the OEM bolts. The problem with this is that the "pad" of the JHM pulley is thicker than OEM. (the part that touches the motor) Therefore, you really need longer bolts to get the same amount of thread engagement as the OEM pulley. I was actually shocked JHM didn't include longer bolts. I ended up using M8-1.25 x 35 mm hex cap bolts, and I got them at Home Depot. They are sold in packs of two and are grade 12.9, plenty strong for a crank pulley. (Link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...3428/204281935)


    OEM length bolts supplied by JHM versus 35mm bolts: (the 35mm bolts have the same amount of thread exposed as OEM bolts on the OEM pulley)


    JHM 187






    2014 Brilliant Black S4
    DSG / Prestige / Black Optics / Sport Diff / B&O / Carbon Atlas Inlays / Magma Leather
    Modifications: APR Stage 2 Dual Pulley + TCU, JHM 187mm Crank Pulley, APR CPS, AWE Touring Exhaust (90mm Silver), ECS 10mm/12.5mm Spacers, 034 Mount Inserts, Hawk HPS 5.0, Rotors w/ PSS (Summer), Peelers w/ LM-32's (Winter)

  4. #204
    Established Member Two Rings ValidatedS4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 08 2017
    AZ Member #
    408089
    My Garage
    2013 S4 6MT
    Location
    Boston, MA

    Quote Originally Posted by Acejam View Post
    I ended up swapping out my Fluidampr 187 to a JHM 187 due to fitment issues. Over the past few months I have swapped pulleys 4-5 times and have picked up a few tips along the way that I thought I would share.

    Regardless of what pulley you're installing, one thing that really helped me was using an M8 x 1.25 stud in the offset hole. This allowed me to inspect the crank snub with a light and mirror and easily identify the offset hole. Once found, I would insert a stud into the hole which allowed me to easily slide the crank pulley on. On the pulley itself I would simply place my finger on the offset hole, and then slide the pulley on. If my finger didn't touch/get pushed out of the way by the stud, then I knew things weren't aligned properly. Of course, this makes visual verification very easy after installing as well. Once on, I would insert and hand tighten the remaining 7 bolts, remove stud, insert the 8th bolt, and then torque all bolts in a star pattern. I also decided to use a small bit of Blue loctite on the bolts.

    Two notes specific to the JHM setup:
    1. At checkout, I selected "APR or similar" drive pulley. They sent me a Bando 1320 belt. From what I have found, a 1320 belt for a 187/57 setup is much too long. I opted to use my Gates RPM 7PK1300 belt instead. It's tight, but once installed it fits perfectly. A 1310 should also work.
    2. The new bolts supplied with the JHM crank pulley are hex cap bolt equivalents of the OEM bolts. The problem with this is that the "pad" of the JHM pulley is thicker than OEM. (the part that touches the motor) Therefore, you really need longer bolts to get the same amount of thread engagement as the OEM pulley. I was actually shocked JHM didn't include longer bolts. I ended up using M8-1.25 x 35 mm hex cap bolts, and I got them at Home Depot. They are sold in packs of two and are grade 12.9, plenty strong for a crank pulley. (Link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...3428/204281935)


    OEM length bolts supplied by JHM versus 35mm bolts: (the 35mm bolts have the same amount of thread exposed as OEM bolts on the OEM pulley)


    JHM 187






    Holy shit. You think the shorter bolts from JHM will be an issue?

    I just finished the install of my 179mm JHM pulley. I used lock tight on it. Now Iím worried about the length of the bolts supplied by JHM.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  5. #205
    Veteran Member Four Rings Acejam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 22 2009
    AZ Member #
    52423
    Location
    MA

    Quote Originally Posted by ValidatedS4 View Post
    Holy shit. You think the shorter bolts from JHM will be an issue?

    I just finished the install of my 179mm JHM pulley. I used lock tight on it. Now Iím worried about the length of the bolts supplied by JHM.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    That depends on your comfort level. The "longer" bolts that I used are equal to OEM in length in terms of thread engagement. The bolts supplied by JHM - assuming yours look short like the ones in my above picture - are less than half the thread engagement of OEM.

    My general rule of thumb has always required a minimum of 4-5 full turns of engagement. I've raced on tracks with suspension components that have had slightly less without issue. However in this case, I wasn't in a rush and wanted to match OEM specs as closely as possible.

    For your sake and others - I hope they have corrected this "issue".

    Did the threads tighten up snug without issue? If so, I probably wouldn't worry about it for now, especially with loctite.

    PS: Hello fellow Masshole.
    2014 Brilliant Black S4
    DSG / Prestige / Black Optics / Sport Diff / B&O / Carbon Atlas Inlays / Magma Leather
    Modifications: APR Stage 2 Dual Pulley + TCU, JHM 187mm Crank Pulley, APR CPS, AWE Touring Exhaust (90mm Silver), ECS 10mm/12.5mm Spacers, 034 Mount Inserts, Hawk HPS 5.0, Rotors w/ PSS (Summer), Peelers w/ LM-32's (Winter)

  6. #206
    Established Member Three Rings MSq5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 14 2017
    AZ Member #
    393251
    Location
    Gulfport, MS

    Nice idea about using a locator stud on the offset hole. I just made witness marks to match pulley location with a reference point on the engine. But, since the engine does not stop in the same location next time (like going back to stock for a dealer visit), the locator stud is an excellent idea. Thanks!

    As to JHM bolt length, yes, mine were shorter than OEM. But, they seemed to have enough engagement, so I rolled with them. Torqued properly. I did put a drop of blue loctite on each. No issues.

    Frankly, I think the OEM bolts are too long. Nothing wrong with that, but more threads does not mean better, as long as you have at least four complete rotations and they are the proper strength. I'm not hearing of any issues of bolt loosening on the JHM pulleys.
    2017 Q5 3.0T S-Line | Brilliant Black | EPL Stage 2 93 octane tune | JHM 179mm crank pulley | aFe Pro 5R (part#10-10121) filter in "modified" stock air box | 034 silicone throttle body hose | HP Tuners custom TCU tuned ZF8

  7. #207
    Established Member Two Rings spoolin80's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 03 2013
    AZ Member #
    110640
    Location
    Va

    sorry editing, ordered my 179 a few weeks ago and the thread length seems proper?
    2012 Ice Silver S4 | CW Stage 2 | JHM 179 | HR OE Springs | Roc-Euro Intake | AWE touring exhaust

  8. #208
    Veteran Member Four Rings Acejam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 22 2009
    AZ Member #
    52423
    Location
    MA

    Quote Originally Posted by spoolin80 View Post
    sorry editing, ordered my 179 a few weeks ago and the thread length seems proper?
    That looks good to me. Looks like they have corrected the issue and started including newer bolts. For what it's worth, I ordered my pulley in early February 2018.
    2014 Brilliant Black S4
    DSG / Prestige / Black Optics / Sport Diff / B&O / Carbon Atlas Inlays / Magma Leather
    Modifications: APR Stage 2 Dual Pulley + TCU, JHM 187mm Crank Pulley, APR CPS, AWE Touring Exhaust (90mm Silver), ECS 10mm/12.5mm Spacers, 034 Mount Inserts, Hawk HPS 5.0, Rotors w/ PSS (Summer), Peelers w/ LM-32's (Winter)

  9. #209
    Established Member Two Rings ValidatedS4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 08 2017
    AZ Member #
    408089
    My Garage
    2013 S4 6MT
    Location
    Boston, MA

    Quote Originally Posted by Acejam View Post
    That looks good to me. Looks like they have corrected the issue and started including newer bolts. For what it's worth, I ordered my pulley in early February 2018.
    I bought mine off of a forum member so I doubt it was corrected. Mine look similar to yours.

    I remember getting a few turns out of them. I think itís something good to know if someone has the old bolts. If I ever need to take off the pulley Iím going to replace it with longer ones.

    PS. originally from NH, but now that Iíve lived here, I get why driving like a Mass Hole is essential to life here.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  10. #210
    Established Member Three Rings MSq5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 14 2017
    AZ Member #
    393251
    Location
    Gulfport, MS

    Quote Originally Posted by Acejam View Post
    That looks good to me. Looks like they have corrected the issue and started including newer bolts. For what it's worth, I ordered my pulley in early February 2018.
    I've been running the stage 2 EPL with JHM 179 since September last year. As stated, their bolts are shorter, but are holding just fine.
    2017 Q5 3.0T S-Line | Brilliant Black | EPL Stage 2 93 octane tune | JHM 179mm crank pulley | aFe Pro 5R (part#10-10121) filter in "modified" stock air box | 034 silicone throttle body hose | HP Tuners custom TCU tuned ZF8

  11. #211
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 22 2018
    AZ Member #
    415923
    Location
    montreal canada

    Bump. Just getting this done. Is a serpentine belt really necessary? I would prefer not ordering/renting one when I tackle this in two weeks.

    Just received my CTS 180MM pulley. Looks beautiful!

  12. #212
    Senior Member Two Rings street2gen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 13 2013
    AZ Member #
    124886
    Location
    Whitewater, WI

    Quote Originally Posted by sspikey View Post
    Bump. Just getting this done. Is a serpentine belt really necessary? I would prefer not ordering/renting one when I tackle this in two weeks.

    Just received my CTS 180MM pulley. Looks beautiful!
    I mean yeah you need your serpentine belt to run the vehicle..... im not sure i understand what your asking, because you also cant rent one.????

  13. #213
    Senior Member Two Rings street2gen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 13 2013
    AZ Member #
    124886
    Location
    Whitewater, WI

    Quote Originally Posted by street2gen View Post
    I mean yeah you need your serpentine belt to run the vehicle..... im not sure i understand what your asking, because you also cant rent one.????
    OKk, serpentine belt wrench... had to read back through diy to see what you were asking.
    We welded a socket to a piece of flat stock when we changed water pump and then i turned around and bought one at advanced auto later so i already had one when doing the crank, you can also get one on amazon for $20.
    In service position i dont think it would be necessary, just usefully for other things.

  14. #214
    Veteran Member Four Rings Acejam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 22 2009
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    52423
    Location
    MA

    Quote Originally Posted by sspikey View Post
    Bump. Just getting this done. Is a serpentine belt really necessary? I would prefer not ordering/renting one when I tackle this in two weeks.

    Just received my CTS 180MM pulley. Looks beautiful!
    A 16mm wrench or socket is technically all that is needed for the tensioner. However serpentine belt wrenches are typically on the longer side and that extra leverage can help a lot.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2014 Brilliant Black S4
    DSG / Prestige / Black Optics / Sport Diff / B&O / Carbon Atlas Inlays / Magma Leather
    Modifications: APR Stage 2 Dual Pulley + TCU, JHM 187mm Crank Pulley, APR CPS, AWE Touring Exhaust (90mm Silver), ECS 10mm/12.5mm Spacers, 034 Mount Inserts, Hawk HPS 5.0, Rotors w/ PSS (Summer), Peelers w/ LM-32's (Winter)

  15. #215
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 22 2018
    AZ Member #
    415923
    Location
    montreal canada

    Mechanic just sent me this. Do I have all the tools I need to have him do it without removing the front bumper? b8.5 S5

    Doing this tomorrow night with his help followed by Epl Stage 2 + TCU tune and CTS intake. Can't wait!

  16. #216
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 10 2014
    AZ Member #
    138581
    My Garage
    2012 a4, 2015 s4
    Location
    Houston, TX

    Quote Originally Posted by sspikey View Post
    Mechanic just sent me this. Do I have all the tools I need to have him do it without removing the front bumper? b8.5 S5

    Doing this tomorrow night with his help followed by Epl Stage 2 + TCU tune and CTS intake. Can't wait!
    It's all detailed in the first post, under TOOLS

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  17. #217
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 22 2018
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    415923
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    montreal canada

    Quote Originally Posted by mintytoo View Post
    It's all detailed in the first post, under TOOLS

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    i was curious if I was able to use the triple square sockets with an extension or would they hit the edge of the crank pulley.

  18. #218
    Veteran Member Four Rings bhvrdr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 21 2004
    AZ Member #
    2873
    Location
    South Florida

    Those should work

    2010 Audi A4 Avant 6AT - Unitronic Tuned - Bone Stock Hardware
    13.665 at 97.71mph - 93 octane - +1250DA
    Gone:
    2013 Audi S5 DSG - Unitronic Stage 2++ ECU & TCU, 3.17pr, Revo Charge Cooler, CTS Turbo Intake, ST60 380mm BBK
    11.482 at 118.70mph - 97 octane - +465DA
    --------------------------
    2016 A6 -- 2015 S4 -- 2009 A4 -- 2004 S4 -- 2006 A4 -- 2003 A4 -- 2000 A4

  19. #219
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 22 2018
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    montreal canada

    Alright got it done. Sadly, it was just too tight and weird for me to work on the car without service position so I did it. Was super easy afterwards.

    Two small tips.

    1 clean the surface of the dowel on the engine side with sand paper. Mine was very rusted after Montreal winters. I also applied grease which made it much easier to rotate and get in place.

    2. Find the offset hole and make sure that one goes in first. If that one seats the rest will follow with ease.

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